Notes for Shampooing, Rinsing, & Conditioning

Shampooing, Rinsing, & Conditioning
- shampoo is an opportunity to provide client with quality relaxing time in salon
- important for the stylist to see client's hair before wet
- shampoo person should alert stylist of existing hair or scalp conditions, diseases, or disorders
- client with infectious disease should NOT be treated in salon but referred to physician
- purpose of shampoo => cleanse hair & scalp prior to receiving service
-- remove all dirt, oils, cosmetics, and skin debris without adversely affecting scalp or hair
- scalp & hair need regular cleansing to combat accumulated oils and perspiration
-- otherwise cause scalp disorders
- over shampooing strips hair or protective oil, or sebum => seals & protects hair's cuticle

Understanding Shampoo
- always read labels and literature to make informed decisions about use
- select shampoo based on condition of client's hair
- hair characterized: oily, dry, normal, chemically treated
- hair not normal or virgin if:
-- lightened
-- coloured
-- permed
-- chemically relaxed
-- abused by harsh shampoos
-- damaged by improper care
-- exposure to elements: wind, sun, cold, heat

pH Scale
- amount of hydrogen in a solution determines alkalinity or acidity
- range: 0 - 14
- acidic shampoo range: 0 - 6.9
- alkaline shampoo range: 7.1 - 14
-- higher the pH rating (more alkaline), stronger & harsher shampoo
- high pH leave hair dry, brittle and more porous, cause fading in colour-treated hair

Chemistry of Water
- universal solvent: capable of dissolving more substances than an other solvent
- fresh water (lakes & streams) purified by sedimentation (treatment causing matter to sink to bottom) and filtration (passing water through porous substance i.e. filter paper or charcoal)
- chlorine added to kill bacteria
- boiling water at 100 degrees Celsius (212 degrees Fahrenheit) destroys most microbes
- water further treated by distillation (heating water to vapour then condensing to liquid)
-- often used in cosmetics
- water is used for shampooing, mixing solutions, and other functions
- classified as hard of soft, depending on kinds & amount of minterals present in water
- Soft Water:
-- rain water or chemically softened water
-- contains small amount of minerals
-- allows soap and shampoo to lather freely
-- preferred for shampoo
- Hard Water:
-- contains certain minerals lessen ability of soap and shampoo to later readily
-- chemical process can soften hard water


Chemistry of Shampoos
- purified or deionized (ions removed) water main ingredient, usually listed first (most amount)
- ingredients listed in descending order, according to percentage
- Surfactants: (Base Detergent)
-- 2nd ingredient (primary surfactant or base detergent)
--- surfactant = detergent = cleansing = surface active agent
-- surfactant molecule has 2 ends:
--- hydrophilic (water attracting "head")
-- lipophilic (oil attracting "tail")
-- during shampoo process, hydrophilic head attracts water and lipophilic tail attracts oil
--- creates push-pull process, causing oils, dirt, and deposits to roll up into little balls to be lifted off in water and rinsed from hair
-- other ingredients added to base surfactants to create wide variety of shampoo formulas
--- moisturizers, oils, proteins, perservatives, foam enhancers, and perfumes


Types of Shampoo
- dry
- oily
- fine
- coarse
- limp
- lightened
- permed
- relaxed
- chemically untreated hair
- add slight colour to highlighted hair
- cleanse hair of styling buildup, mineral deposits, etc.
- deposit a coating on hair
- strips coating off hair
- leave hair lustrous and manageable
- treat scalp or hair condition
- list of ingredients key

Acid-Balanced or Everyday Shampoo
- balanced to pH of skin and hair (4.5 - 5.5)
- any shampoo become acid-balance by addition of citric, lactic, or phosphoric acid
- some experts believe 4.5-5.5 pH essential to prevent excessive dryness and hair damage during cleansing process
- close hair cuticle and recommended for colour-treated or lightened hair

Conditioning or Moisturizing Shampoos
- make hair smooth and shiny
- avoid damage to chemically treated hair
- improve manageability of hair
- Protein and Biotin, examples of conditioning agents
-- restore moisture & elasticity, strength of hair shaft and add volume
-- Nonstripping: do NOT remove artificial colour from hair


Medicated Shampoos
- contain special chemicals or drugs effective in reducing excessive dandruff or relieving other scalp conditons
- some need prescription by physician
- generally strong and may affect colour of tinted or lightened hair
- shampoo must sit on scalp for longer time for active ingredients to work

Clarifying Shampoos
- acidic ingredient ie. cider vinegar to cut product buildup that flatten hair
- includes shine
- not be used on regular basis, only when buildup evident
- once every 1-2 weeks, depending how much styling product used

Balancing Shampoos
- for oily hair & scalp
- wash away excess oiliness while keeping hair from drying out


Dry or Powder Shampoos
- sometimes state of client's health makes wet shampoo uncomfortable or hard to manage
- elderly client may experience discomfort at shampoo bowl due to pressure on back of neck
- cleanse hair without use of soap and water
- powder picks up dirt and oils as you brush or comb it through hair
- adds volume to hair
- NEVER give dry shampoo before chemical service


Colour-Enhancing Shampoos
- combines surfactant base with basic colours
- similar to temporary colour rinses
- attracted to porous hair
- give straight colour changes, removed with plain shampooing
- used to brighten, add some slight colour, and eliminate unwanted tones

Shampoos for Hairpieces and Wigs
- prepared wig cleaning solutions available

FOCUS: establish your professional relationship during shampoo by giving client information as to what you are doing and why.  Let client know what shampoo you are using and why you have selected it.  Mention these products are available for purchase, and emphasize benefits

Conditioners
- special chemical agents applied to hair
- deposit protein or moisturizer
- restore strength and give body
- protect against breakage
- temporary remedy for dry or damaged hair
- repair to certain extent (cannot "heal" nor improve quality of new hair growth)
- texture and structure of hair depends on: heredity, health, and diet
- minimize damage to hair during cosmetology services
-- restore luster, shine, manageability, strength
- can give false impression that hair has been restored to original healthy condition
- habitual use lead to buildup on hair => heavy and oily
- stylist know when to use cream rinse (removes tangles) and conditioning treatment (repairs damaged hair)
- Reconstructors or Hair Masks:
1. Rinse-through:
-- finishing rinses or cream rinses - rinsed out after they are worked through hair for detangling
2. Treatment or Repair:
-- deep, penetrating conditioners left on hair for 10-20 minutes, restoring protein & moisture
-- sometimes necessary to sit under hooded dryer for deeper penetration
3. Leave-in:
-- applied to hair and NOT rinsed out
- most conditioners contain silicone and Humectant, substances that absorb moisture or promote retention of moisture
-- reflects light and make hair appear shiny
- other ingredients reduces frizz and bulk up hair
- most treatments and leave-ins contain proteins, which penetrates cortex and reinforces hair shaft from within
- conditioner affects hair in different ways:
-- conditioners smooth cuticle and coat hair shaft making it shiny
--- so do detangling rinses or cream rinses (not as heavy)
-- cortex makes up 90% of hair strand and penetrated with protein conditioner to reconstruct hair
-- moisturizing conditioner also contain humectant that attract moisture from air and absorbed into cortex


Instant Conditioners
- some remain in hair for 1-5 minutes
- some are "leave-in" conditioners
- contains humectant to improve appearance of dry, brittle hair
- most conditioners pH range 3.5 - 6.0 and restore pH balance after an alkaline chemical treatment
- conditioners designed to balance pH are considered instant because of short application time
-- generally contain acid that balance alkalinity of prior chemical service

Moisturizers
- heavier & creamier than instant conditioners
- have longer application time (10-20 minutes)
- formulated to be more penetrating and longer staying power
- some involve application of heat
- Quaternary Ammonium Compounds (quats) included in chemical formulation of moisturizers for ability to attach themselves steadfastly to hair fibres and provide longer lasting protection than instant conditioners


Protein Conditioners (Protein Treatments)
- designed to slightly increase hair diameters with coating action, adding body to hair
- facilitate hair setting process
- available in several strengths
- choice strength appropriate to condition, texture, quality of hair you are treating
- concentrated protein conditioners characteristically have brown liquid appearanc
- used to improve strength of hair and to temporary close split ends
- pass through cuticle, penetrate cortex, replace keratin lost
- improve appearance, equalize porosity and increase elasticity
- excess conditioner must be rinsed from hair before setting
- concentrated protein treatments not given immediately after chemical treatment
-- alter desirable rearrangement of protein bonds formed by permanent wave, relaxer or haircolouring.

Deep Conditioning Treatments (Hair Masks or Conditioning Packs)
- chemical mixtures of concentrated protein in heavy cream base of a moisturizer
- penetrate several cuticle layers and are chosen therapy when an equal degree of moisturizing and protein treatment is required


Other Conditioning Agents
- Spray-On Thermal Protectors:
-- applied to hair prior to any thermal service to protect hair from harmful effects of blowdrying, thermal irons, or electrical rollers
- Scalp Conditioners:
-- usually in cream base
-- soften and improve health of scalp
-- contain moisturizing and emollient ingredients
- Medicated Scalp Lotions:
-- conditioners that promote healing of scalp
- Scalp Astringent Lotions:
-- remove oil accumulation from scalp and used after scalp treatment and before styling

CAUTION: product can be damaging over time if used incorrectly.  Conditioners can build up on hair shaft and make hair heavy & oily, convincing you to shampoo again.  Constant shampoo strips hair shaft of protective oils, prompting you to condition more => creates vicious cycle.  Use gentle shampoo for your hair type and little conditioner only when needed

CAUTION: hair service NOT be preceded by brushing, shampooing, or massage include:
- single-process and double-process haircolour
- highlighting
- most chemical relaxers
- some temporary & semi-permanent haircolour
If shampooing is recommended, do so gently to avoid scalp irritation


Brushing Hair
- correct hair-brushing:
-- stimulates blood circulation to scalp
-- remove dust, dirt, and hair spray buildup
-- adds shine
- include thorough hair-brushing as part of every shampoo and scalp treatment, with exception:
-- do NOT brush before giving chemical service
-- do NOT brush if scalp irritated
-- NEVER brush scalp
-- NEVER use comb to loosen scales from scalp
- use hairbrushes made from natural bristles
-- many tiny overlapping layers or scales
-- clean and add lustre to hair
- hairbrushes with nylon bristles are shiny and smooth => fine for hairstyling
- to brush hair:
-- part it through the centre from front to nape
-- part a section about 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) off centre parting to crown of head
-- hold section in left hand
-- rotate brush by turning wrist slightly and sweep  bristles the full length of hair shaft
-- repeat 3 times
-- part hair again 1/2 inch from first parting and continue until entire head brushed

Matching products to Hair Types

Hair Type:    Straight
Fine:            Volumizing Shampoo, Detangler, if necessary Protein Treatments
Medium:      Acid-Balanced Shampoo, Finishing Rinse, Protein Treatments
Coarse:        Moisturizing Shampoo, Leave-in Conditioner, Moisturizing Treatments

Hair Type:   Wavy, Curly, Extremely Curly:
Fine:            Fine Hair Shampoo, Light Leave-In Conditioner, Protein Treatments, Spray-On Thermal Protectors
Medium:      Acid-Balanced Shampoo, Leave-in Conditioner, Moisturizing Treatment
Coarse:        Moisturizing Shampoo, Leave-in Conditioner, Protein & Moisturizing Treatments
Hair Type:   Dry & Damaged (Perms, Colour, Relaxers, Blow-drying, Sun, Hot Irons)
Fine:            Gentle Cleansing Shampoo, Light Leave-In Conditioner, Protein & Moisturizing Repair Treatments, Spray-On Thermal Protection
Medium:      Shampoo for Chemically Treated Hair, Moisturizing Conditioner, Protein & Moisturzing Repair Treatments
Coarse:        Deep-Moisturizing Shampoo for Damaged Hair, Leave-In Conditioner, Deep Conditioning Treatments and Hair Masks




Scalp Massage
- requirements for healthy scalp: cleanliness & stimulation
- use continuous, even motion => stimulate scalp & relaxes clients
- scalp massage most effective, given as series of treatments once a week for normal scalp, more frequently with scalp disorders, in conjunction with treatment by dermatologist
- do NOT massage or manipulate client's scalp if abrasions present
- performed prior to shampoo
- luxurious "extra" service


Scalp Manipulation Technique
- with each massage movement, place hands under hair so length of fingers, ball of fingertips, and cushions of the palms can stimulate muscles, nerves, and blood vessels of scalp area
1. Relaxing Movement:
- cup client's chin in left hand; place right hand at base of skull & rotate head gently
- reverse position of hands and repeat
 2. Sliding movement:
- place fingertips on each side of client's head; slide hands firmly upward, spreading fingertips until they meet at top of head
- repeat 4 times
3. Sliding & rotating movement
- same as (2), except after sliding fingertips 1 inch (2.5 cm), rotate and move client's scalp
- repeat 4 times
4. Forehead movement:
- hold back of head with left hand
- place stretched thumb & fingers of right hand on forehead
- move hand slowly and firmly upward to 1 inch pass hairline
- repeat 4 times
5. Scalp Movement:
- place palms firmly against scalp
- lift scalp in rotary movement, first with hands above ears, second with hands at front & back of head
6. Hairline Movement:
- place fingers of both hands at client's forehead
- massage around hairline by lifting and rotating
7. Front Scalp Movement:
- dropping back 1 inch, repeat (6) over entire front & top of scalp
8. Back Scalp Movement:
- place fingers of each hand on sides of head
- starting below ears, manipulate scalp with thumbs, working upward to crown
- repeat 4 times
- repeat thumb manipulations, working toward centre back of head
9. Ear-to-Ear Movement:
- place left hand on forehead
- massage from right ear to left ear along base of skull with heel of your hand, using rotary movement
10. Back Movement:
- place left hand on forehead and stand to left
- using right hand, rotate from base of neck, along shoulder, and back across shoulder blade to spine
- slide hand up spine to base of neck
- repeat on opposite side
11. Shoulder Movement:
- place both palms together at base of neck
- using rotary movement, catch muscles in palms and massage along shoulder blades to point of shoulders and back again
- massage from shoulders to spine and back again
12. Spine Movement:
- massage from base of client's skull down to spine with rotary movement
- using firm finger pressure, bring head slowly to base of skull

The Shampoo Procedure
- maintaining good posture protect again muscle aches, back strain, discomfort, fatigue, and other physical problems when performing shampoos
- keep shoulders back
- hold abdomen in, lifting upper body
- free-standing shampoo bowls allows healthier body alignment, reduce strain on back & shoulders


Shampooing Chemically Treated Hair
- tend to be drier & more fragile
- mild shampoo formulated for chemically treated hair is recommended
- tends to tangle
- comb gently from nape and work to frontal area
- do not force comb through hair
- use conditioner if necessary
- hair that is relaxed or straightened are less tangled, but may mat if not moisturized properly before drying

Applying Dry Shampoos
- sometimes state of client's health make shampoo uncomfortable or hard to manage
- elderly may experience pressure on back of neck
-- use dry or powder shampoo
- applied at stylist's station, client draped as for chemical service
- apply powder directly onto hair fro scalp to ends
- brush through with natural bristle brush to remove oil and dirt


Shampooing Clients with Special Needs
- clients with disabilities or in wheelchairs tell you how they prefer to be shampooed
- some wheelchair clients remain seated in wheelchair facing shampoo bowl bending forward, with towel to protect face
- if wheelchair in correct height in relation to shampoo bowl, shampoo as normal
- sometimes client arrive with hair freshly shampooed
- sometimes dry shampoo is appropriate
- always ask their preference and keep them comfortable and safe

General Hair & Scalp Treatments
- purpose: keep scalp & hair in clean and healthy condition
- stylist recommend only after having performed hair & scalp examination
- if client no time to sit for treatment, recommend scheduling
- give either before or after shampoo depending on which treatment

CAUTION: Do NOT use high-frequency current on hair treated with tonics or lotions that contain alcohol


Normal Hair & Scalp Treatments
1. drape client
2. brush hair for 5 minutes
3. apply scalp conditioner
4. apply infrared lamp for 5 minutes
5. manipulate scalp for 10-20 minutes
6. shampoo hair
7. towel dry hair to remove excess moisture
8. apply suitable scalp lotion and/or styling aids
9. style hair

Dry Hair & Scalp Treatments
- used when deficiency of natural oil on scalp & hair
- select scalp preparations containing moisturizing & emollient ingredients
- avoid strong soaps, preparations containing mineral oil or sulfonated oil base, greasy preparations, and lotions with high alcohol content
- scalp steamer resembling hooded dryer used
1. drape client
2. brush hair for 5 minutes
3. apply scalp preparation
4. apply scalp steamer or wrap head in warm team towels for 7-10 minutes
5. give mild shampoo
6. towel dry hair & scalp throughly
7. apply moisturizing scalp scram sparingly with rotary, frictional motion
8. stimulate scalp with direct high-frequency current, using glass rake electrode for 5 minutes
9. rinse hair thoroughly
10. style hair


Oily Hair & Scalp Treatments
- excessive oiliness caused by overactive sebaceous (oil) glands
- manipulate scalp & knead it to increase blood circulation to surace
- any hardened sebum in pores of scalp will be removed with gentle pressing or squeezing
- normalize function of these glands, excess sebum should be flushed out with each treatment
1. drape client
2. brush hair for 5 minutes
3. use cotton pledget, apply medical scalp lotion to scalp only
4. apply infrared lamp for 5 minutes
5. manipulate scalp (optional: faradic or sinusoidal current may be used)
6. shampoo with corrective shampoo for oily hair
7. towel dry hair
8. apply direct high-frequency current for 3-5 minutes
9. apply scalp astringent and/or suitable styling aids
10. style hair

Antidrandruff Treatments
- dandruff is result of fungus called malassezia
- antidrandruff shampoos, conditioners, and topical lotions contain antifungal agents that control dandruff by suppressing growth of malassezia
- moisturizing salon treatment also soften and loosen scalp scales that stick to scalp in crusts
1. drape client
2. shampoo with antidandruff shampoo
3. towel dry hair
4. apply antidandruff conditioner or lotion
5. apply heat with infrared lamp or scalp steamer for 5 minutes (optional)
6. shampoo with antidandruff shampoo
7. style hair
8. because fungus may resist treatment, additional salon treatments and frequent use of antidandruff products at home recommended

CAUTION: some antidandruff lotions are alcohol based and should NOT be used in conjunction with infrared lamps



Procedure 2 - Basic Shampoo

Implements & Materials
- towels
- shampoo cape
- shampoo
- conditioner (optional)
- comb & hairbrush

Preparation
1. Set client at workstation, ensure comfort
2. Consult which hair service client will receive on this visit
3. Wash hands with soap and warm water
4. Drape client for shampoo.  Turn collar to inside if necessary. Place towel lengthwise across shoulders, crossing ends beneath chin.
5. Place cape over towel & fasten back so cape NOT touch client's skin
6. place another towel over cape and secure in front
7. Remove all hairpins & combs from hair
8. Ask client to remove earrings & glasses and keep them safe
9. Examine condition of client's hair & scalp, determine appropriate shampoo & conditioner
10. Brush hair thoroughly
11. Massage scalp

Procedure
1. Set client comfortably at shampoo sink
2. Supporting head with hand, draw back of cape over outside of shampoo chair to kep water from running down back
3. Adjust volume & temperature of water spray. Consider client's preference when adjusting water temperature.  Turn on cold water first, gradually add warm water until comfortable warm temperature.  Test temperature on your inner wrist.  Monitor temperature of water throughout shampoo by keeping one finger over edge of spray nozzle and in contact with water
4. Wet hair. Lift hair and work it with hand to saturate scalp.  When working around hairline, shift your hand to protect client's face, ears, and neck from spray.  Place little finger behind ear and cup hand to make shield or bend ear inward to keep water out.
5. Apply small quantities of shampoo to hair, beginning at hairline and work back.  Work into a lather using pads or cushions of fingers.  Do not use your fingernails.
6. Manipulate scalp.
a) Begin at front hairline and work in back-and-forth movement until top of head is reached
b) Continue to back of head, shifting fingers back 1 inch (2.5cm) at a time
c) Lift head with hand.  With other hand, manipulate scalp above ear, and using same movement, work to back of head.
d) Drop finger down 1 inch and repeat process until side of head covered
e) Beginning at other ear, repeat c) and d)
f) Allow head to relax and work around hairline with thumbs in rotary movement
g) Repeat movements until scalp has been thoroughly massaged
h) Remove excess shampoo and lather by squeezing hair
7. Rinse hair with strong spray of lukewarm water.  Lift hair at crown and back with fingers of left hand to permit spray to rinse hair thoroughly.  Cup left hand along nape and part hair, forcing spray of water against base scalp area
8. If required, apply shampoo again.  Repeat procedure 5, 6, 7.  Less shampoo needed because partially clean hair lathers more easily.
9. Gently squeeze excess water from hair.  Apply conditioner, avoiding base of hair near scalp.  Gently comb conditioner through, distributing it with wide-tooth comb, which client remains in reclining position, with head in shampoo bowl
10. Leave conditioner on for recommended time.  Some conditioners are left on less than 1 minute and others for 10-20 minutes.  If rinsing out in less than 1 minute, it is fine to keep client in reclining position as long as comfortable.  Rinse conditioner thoroughly and finish with a cool water rinse to seal cuticle.
11. If conditioner is to remain on head for more than 1 minute, place a plastic cap on client's head and sit upright for recommended time.  If you have applied deep conditioning treatment, you may have to place client under a heated dryer.
12. Partially towel dry.
a) While still at shampoo bowl, remove ecess moisture from hair
b) Wipe excess moisture from face & ears with ends of towel
c) Lift towel over back of client's head and drape head with towel
d) Place hands on top of towel and blot out excess water.  Do NOT rub, as rubbing tangles hair
13. Clean out shampoo bowl, removing loose hair
14. Comb hair, beginning with ends at nape of neck
15. Change drape if necessary
16. Style hair as desired

Cleanup & Sanitation
1. Discard used materials, and placed unused supplies in proper place
2. Place used towels in towel hamper
3. Disinfect combs and brushes for required time
4. Sanitize shampoo bowl.  The neck of bowl should be disinfected after each client
5. Wash hands with soap & water


CAUTION: in massaging or manipulating scalp while shampooing, do NOT use firm pressure if:
- chemical services follow
- scalp is tender or sensitive
- client ask for less pressure