Haircoloring
- clients who have their hair coloured visits the salon every 4 to 12 weeks
- skilled haircolourist are experts in:
-- depositing colour on natural hair colour
-- depositing colour on previously coloured hair
-- depositing colour on hair that has been lightened
-- lightening and depositing colour in one step
- stats show haircut clients stay with stylist for average 2 years, colour clients stay for 8 years
Why People Colour their Hair
- information comes out of client consultation
- cover up or blend gray (unpigmented) hair
- enchance existing haircolour
- create a fashion statement or statement of self-expression
- correct unwanted tones in hair from environmental exposure (sun, chlorine)
- accentuate particular haircut
NOTE: Haircolour (one word) is a professional, industry-coined term referring to artificial haircolour products and services. Hair colour (two words) is the colour of hair created by nature.
Colour Theory
- colour is a form of light energy
- colours we can see are contained in the visible spectrum of light
Law of Colours
- system for understanding colour relationships
Primary Colours
- pure or fundamental colours that cannot be achieved from a mixture
- blue, red, yellow
- all colours are created from these primaries
- Cool-toned colours: colours with predominance of blue
- Warm-toned colours: colours with predominance of red
Blue
- darkest of primary colours
- only cool primary colour
- brings depth or darkness to any colour
Red
- medium primary colour
- added to blue based colour will appear lighter
- added to yellow colours will appear darker
Yellow
- lightest of primary colours
- added to colour results to lighter and brighter appearance
Black
- All three primary colours equally mixed
Brown
- blue-B + red-RR + yellow-YYY
Secondary Colours
- mixing equal parts of two primary colours
- equal parts of red + blue = violet
- equal parts of blue + yellow = green
- equal parts of red + yellow = orange
Tertiary Colours
- intermediate colour = secondary colour + neighbouring primary colour (in equal amounts)
- blue-green, blue-violet, red-violet, red-orange, yellow-orange, yellow-green
- natural-looking haircolour is a combination of primary and secondary colours
Complementary Colours
- primary + secondary colour positioned opposite each other on the colour wheel
- blue + orange, red + green, yellow + violet
- neutralizes each other
- when formulating haircolour, goal to emphasize or distract from skin tone or eye colour. May also want to neutralize or refine unwanted tones in hair
- understanding complementary colours helps to find appropriate tone
Hair Facts
Hair Structure
- determining factor in choosing which haircolour to use
- affects quality and ultimate success of haircolour service
- Cuticle:
-- outermost layer of hair
-- protects interior cortex layer
-- contributes to 20% overall strength of hair
- Cortex:
-- middle layer
-- gives hair strength and elasticity
-- contributes 80% overall strength of hair
-- contains natural pigment Melanin
--- determines blondes, brunettes, or redheas
--- melanin granules scattered between cortex cells like chocolate chip cookie
- Medulla:
-- innermost layer
-- sometimes absent from hair
-- plays very minor role in haircolouring process
Texture
- determined by diameter of individual hair strand
- large hair strand = coarse hair texture
-- has large diameter => longer to process
- medium hair strand = medium hair texture
-- average response to haircolour products
- small diameter hair strands = fine hair texture
-- melanin granules in fine hair => grouped more tightly => takes colour faster => look darker
Density
- number of hairs per square inch
- thick to thin
- must take into account in haircolour to ensure proper coverage
Porosity
- ability to absorb liquid
- porous hair accepts haircolor faster and permits darker colour than less porous hair
- Low Porosity:
-- cuticle is tight
-- hair is resistant
-- difficult for moisture or chemicals to penetrate
-- requires longer processing time
- Average Porosity:
-- cuticle is slightly raised
-- hair is normal
-- processes in average time
- High Porosity:
-- cuticle is lifted
-- hair is overporous
-- takes colour quickly
-- colour may also fade quickly
Test for Porosity:
1. Take a strand of several hairs from:
- front hairline
- temple
- crown
- nape
2. Hold strand securely with one hand and slide thumb & forefinger of other hand from ends to scalp
Low Porosity => If hair feels smooth & cuticle is compact, dense, and hard
Average Porosity => If hair feels slightly rough
High Porosity => If hair feels very rough, dry, or breaks
Natural Hair Colour
- identify client's natural colour
- natural colour ranges from black to dark brown to red; from dark blonde to light blonde
- hair colour unique to each individual: no 2 people have exactly same colour
Two types of melanin in cortex:
1. Eumelanin - melanin found in black and brown hair
2. Pheomelanin - melanin found in red hair, very dark hair and most brunettes. Blondes have a small amount
- Mixed Melanin: natural hair colour can be combination of both types of melanin
- Contributing pigment:
-- pigment that lies under natural hair colour
-- must take into consideration when selecting haircolour
- When lightening natural hair colour => expose contributing pigment
-- foundation of haircolouring based on modifying this pigment with haircolour products to create new pigment
The Level System
Level (Value or Depth)
- unit of measurement - identify lightness or darkness of colour
- Level System: used to analyze lightness or darkness of hair colour
- haircolour levels arranged on a scale of 1 to 10
-- 1 being darkest
-- 10 being lightest
-- names may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer
-- important to identify degrees of lightness to darkness at each level
10 - lightest blond
9 - very light blond
8 - light blond
7 - medium blond
6 - dark blond
5 - light brown
4 - medium brown
3 - dark brown
2 - very dark brown
1 - black
Tone (Tonality)
- describe warmth or coolness of a colour
- warm tones: reds, oranges, yellows, auburn, copper, gold, bronze, honey
- cool tones: blue, green violet; haircolour: ash, drab, smoky, platinum
Intensity
- strength of a colour tone
- mild, medium, strong
- red shades: strawberry blonde, copper brown, bright orange
Base Colour
- predominant tonality of an existing colour
- artificial haircolours develop from primary & secondary colours to form base colours
- influences final colour result
- violet base colour delivers cool results minimizing unwanted yellow tones
- blue base colour provides coolest result minimizing orange tones
- red-orange base creates bright, warm results for redheads
- gold base creates gold haircolour, from brunettes to light blondes
Identifying Natural Level and Tone
- first step in performing haircolour service
- colour wheel is valuable tool
- haircolour swatch books provide visual representation
1. Take a 1/2 inch square section in the crown area and hold it up from the scalp, allowing light to pass through
2. Using natural level finder swatch from manufacturer, select a matching swatch and place against hair. You are determining depth level (darkness or lightness). Do NOT part or hold hair flat against scalp (will appear darker)
3. Move swatch from scalp area along hair strand
4. determine natural hair colour level
Gray Hair
- associated with aging
- heredity
- few people completely white-haired
- most retain certain pigment percentage
- solid or blended throughout (salt & pepper hair)
- requires special attention in formulating haircolour
% of Gray: 30%
- More pigmented than gray hair
% of Gray: 50%
- Even mixture of gray and pigmented hair
% of Gray: 70 to 90%
- More gray than pigmented; most of remaining pigment is located in back of head
% of Gray: 100%
- Virtually no pigmented hair; tends to look white
TIP: Rely on natural light when analyzing hair colour because artificial light affects your perception of hair colour, particularly fluorescent light, which can distort colour drastically.
Types of Haircolour
Hair colouring products:
1. Temporary
2. Semipermanent
3. Demipermanent
4. Permanent
- All expect temporary require Patch Test before application to determine if client is allergic to product
Hair Lightening
- bleaching
- decolourizing
- chemical process involving diffusion of natural colour pigment or artificial colour from hair
- important in permanent haircolour and hair lighteners
Permanent Haircolour Product and Lighteners
- contain both developer (oxidizing agent) and alkalizing ingredient in their composition
- Alkalizing ingredient:
-- Ammonia or Ammonia Substitute
-- raise cuticle of hair fibre so tint (permanent colour) can penetrate
-- Oxidation Reaction: facilitate formation of tints within hair fibre
-- brings lightening action of peroxide
Tint + alkalizing ingredient (ammonia) + developer (hydrogen peroxide) => peroxide becomes alkaline and diffuses (breaks up) through hair fibre, entering cortex (where melanin is).
Lightening occurs when alkaline peroxide breaks up melanin and replaces it with new colour.
Temporary Haircolour (Physical Change)
- subtle neutralizer for yellowing hair
- neutralize unwanted tones
- pigment molecules are large => do NOT penetrate cuticle layer = coating action removed by shampoo
- NO patch test required
- Available in variety of colours and products:
-- colour rinses applied weekly to shampooed hair to add colour; hair styled dry
-- colour mousses and gels used for slight colour and for dramatic effects
-- hair mascara used for dramatic effects
-- spray-on haircolour for special effects
-- colour-enhancing shampoos used to brighten, impart slight colour, and eliminate unwanted tones
Semipermanent Haircolour
- last through several shampoos, depending on hair porosity
- pigment molecules are small enough to partially penetrate hair shaft and stain cuticle layer
- small enough to diffuse out of hair during shampooing => fade with each shampoo
- lasts 6 - 8 weeks
- NOT lighten hair => no significant colour change
- NO maintenance of new growth
- formulated without ammonia and generally as gentle as shampoo
- require patch test before application
- many an be used right out of bottle
- others require activator prior to application
-- Activator: develops colour pigments within formula
-- swells cortex and open cuticle for colour penetration
- some has after-rinse
-- rinse prevents fading to lighter colour or off-tone and leaves hair soft, pliable, and easy to comb
- always good idea to finish service with mild conditioning rinse
Demipermanent Haircolour (Deposit-Only Haircolour)
- referred as semipermanent by some manufacturers
- longer lasting than semipermanent
- deposit but not lift (lighten) colour
- smaller tint molecules penetrating hair shaft
- imparts vivi colour results
- ideal for:
-- covering unpigmented hair
-- refreshing faded permanent colour
-- depositing tonal changes without lift
-- corrective colouring
-- reverse highlighting
- darken natural hair colour
- little to no damage to hair => gentle or mild (low ammonia or no-ammonia formula)
- used exclusively on middle of hair shaft to ends after permanent colour applied to base area.
-- fights build up effect on previously coloured hair
-- less aggressive => less damage
- available in gel, cream, liquid
- requires patch test
Permanent Haircolour
- mixed with developer (hydrogen peroxide)
- remains in hair shaft until new growth of hair occurs
- match, lighten, and cover gray hair
- generally contain ammonia, oxidative tints, and peroxide
- require patch test
- tint formula contains uncoloured dye precursors (aniline derivatives)
-- very small compounds that diffuse into hair shaft
-- combines with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, permanent tint molecules that are trapped within cortex => cannot be shampooed out
- best for covering gray
- remove natural pigment through lightening while adding artificial colour
- action of removing and adding coour, blending gray and nongray hair uniformly => natural-looking colour
Haircolour Categories
Temporary Colour
Uses:
- creates fun, bold results that easily shampoo from the hair
- neutralizes yellow hair
Semipermanent Colour
Uses:
- introduces client to haircolour services
- adds subtle colour results
- tones prelightened hair
Demipermanent Colour
Uses:
- blends gray hair
- enhances natural colour
- tones prelightened hair
- refreshes faded colourFiller in colour correction
Permanent Colour
Uses:
- changes existing haircolour
- covers gray
- creates bright or natural-looking haircolour changes
Hydrogen Peroxide Developers
- Developer: (Oxidizing agent or Catalysts)
-- supplies necessary oxygen gas to develop colour molecules and create change in hair colour when mixed wtih an oxidative haircolour
-- have pH between 2.5 & 4.5
-- hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) => most common
- Volume:
-- measure of potential oxidation of varying strengths of hydrogen peroxide
-- lower the volume, less lift is achieved
-- higher the volume, greater lifting action
-- majority of permanent haircolour products use 10, 20, 30, or 40 volume hydrogen peroxide for proper colour development
-- store peroxide in cool, dark, dry place
Hydrogen Peroxide Volume & Uses
10 Volume
When:
- when less lightening is desired to enhance a client's natural hair colour
20 Volume
When:
- standard volume
- used to achieve most results with permanent haircolour
- used for complete gray coverage
30 Volume
When:
- used for additional lift with permanent haircolour
40 Volume
When:
- used with most high-lift colours to provide maximum lift in a one-step colour service
Natural & Metallic Haircolours
- Not generally used in salons
- Natural or Vegetable Haircolours:
-- henna: black, chestnut, auburn tones
-- natural colours from leaves or bark of plants
-- NO lightening of natural hair colour
-- colour results weak
-- process lengthy & messy
-- shade ranges limited
-- many chemical products CANNOT be applied over natural hair colours
- Metallic Haircolours (Gradual Colours):
-- contain metal salts
-- change hair colour gradually by progressive buildup and exposure to air
-- creates dull, metallic appearance
-- requires daily application
-- historically marketed to men
-- problem: shade appear unnatural
-- limited shade range
-- Compound Dyes: combination of metallic colours and vegetable tint
-- NOT used professionally
Lighteners
- chemical compounds lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving, and decolourizing natural hair pigment
- Oxidation: oxygen is released within the cortex by mixing hydrogen peroxide into lightener formula
- diffuse pigment
- used to create blonde shade not achievable with permanent haircolour
-- lighten hair prior to application of colour; to create final colour
-- lighten hair to particular shade
-- brighten and lighten existing shade
-- lighten only certain parts of hair
-- lighten dark natural or colour-treated levels
Decolourizing Process
- amount of change depends on:
-- how much pigment the hair has
-- strength of lightening product
-- length of time it is processed
- natural hair can go through as many as 10 stages
Ten Degrees of Decolourization
10. pale yellow
9. yellow
8. yellow/gold
7. gold
6. orange/gold
5. orange
4. red/orange
3. red
2. red brown
1. dark red/brown
Contribution of Underlying Pigment
- decolourizing hair's natural melanin pigment allows the exact degree of contributing pigment needed for final result
1. hair is decolourized to appropriate level
2. new colour is applied to deposit the desired colour
- remaining natural pigment contributes to artificial colour added
- lightening hair to correct stage is essential to final haircolouring result
CAUTION: It is often difficult to lighten dark hair to a very pale blonde without extreme damage to the hair. Client should be alerted to danger before proceeding with service.
Toners
- semipermanent, demipermanent, and permanent haircolour products used primarily on prelightened hair to achieve pale and delicate colours.
- applied to lightest degree of contributing pigment remaining after decolourizing process
- not all hair go through all 10 degrees of decolourization
-- each start at different stages
- goal: create correct degree of contributing pigment as foundation for final haircolour result
- hair is NEVER safely lifted past pale yellow stage to white with lightener
-- extreme diffusion to white causes excessive damage to hair strand
-- wet hair feels "mushy"
-- stretch without returning to original length
-- hard and brittle when dry
-- suffers breakage
-- NOT accept toner properly
- baby-blonde look can be achieved by lightening to pale yellow and neutralizing unwanted undertone (contributing pigment) with toner
Contributing Pigment (Undertones)
10. pale yellow
9. yellow
8. yellow/orange
7. orange
6. red/orange
5. red
4. red/violet
3. violet
2. blue/violet
1. blue
Consultation
- haircolour consultation => most critical part of colour service
- first step in establishing relationship with client
- client communicate what they want
- you listen carefully to make appropriate haircolour recommendation
- allow sufficient time for consultation to ensure client satisfaction
- begin consultation with proper lighting to accurately assess client's hair
-- wall should be white or neutral
1. Book 15 minutes extra for consultation. Introduce yourself and welcome them to salon. Offer a beverage. No interruptions.
2. Have client fill out information card. Compile hair history and note type of hair colour desired. Pay attention to client's skin and eye colour, condition and length of hair and amout of gray hair.
3. Look at client directly. Ask what client is thinking about doing with hair colour. Ask leading questions. Let them talk. Keep them on track discussing recent hair history
- temporary or permanent chang?
- overall colour or highlights?
- conservative or dramatic colour?
- have you seen so-and-so's hair? That colour would look great on you.
- would you like to add shine to your hair?
4. Recommend at least 2 different haircolour options. Show pictures of different ranges of colours, from brunette to blonde, red, and highlighted colours.
5. Review procedure and application technique, maintenance involved, cost of service, and follow-up maintenance. Sometimes several steps are necessary to obtain haircolour result. A client may love a certain haircolour but NOT afford it. Have a more economical backup solution ready.
6. Be honest and do not promise the world. If faced with a corrective situation, let client know what you can do today and how many visits it will take to achieve what they are looking for.
7. Gain approval from client.
8. Start haircolour service.
9. Follow through during service by educating and informing client about home care, products, and rebooking. Let client know type of shampoo and conditioner are needed to maintain colour. Let him know how many weeks it will be before they need to come back for another service.
10. Fill out client's haircolour record.
CAUTION: Medications can affect haircolour. In the consultation, determine if client is taking medication. medical treatments for conditions such as diabetes, high blood pressure, and thyroid problems will affect outcome of colour and most chemical services.
NOTE: Use descriptive language to discuss products and services
- use persuasive language in haircolour ("soft, buttery blonde," "rich chocolate brown," "spicy, coppery red.")
- avoid words with negative connotation ("bleached," "frosted," and "roots.")
- use positive "mood" words to convey benefits ("healthy-looking," "richer," "natural-looking," "subtle.")
Release statement
- used by salons providing chemical services
- purpose to explain to clients if their hair is in questionable condition, may not withstand requested chemical treatment.
- asks clients about prior chemical experimentation that may affect current colour selection and end results.
- protect school/salon from responsibility for accidents or damages
- required for most malpractice insurance
- is NOT a legally binding contact and NOT clear cosmetologist of responsibility
Patch Test (Predisposition Test)
- identify allergies or sensitivities to mixture
- given 24 - 48 hours prior to application of an aniline tint or toner
- tint used for patch test must be same type to be used and colour
Performing a Patch Test
1. Select test area. Behind ear or inside of elbow
2. Use mild soap, cleanse and dry area about size of quarter
3. Mix small amount of product according to manufacturer's directions
4. Apply to test area with sterile cotton swab
5. Leave undisturbed for 24 hours
6. Examine test area. If no signs of redness or irritation, proceed with colour service
7. Log result on client information card
- a Negative skin test => no sign of inflammation => colour may be safely applied
- a Positive skin test => redness, slight rash or welt => allergic - do NOT proceed with substance tested
CAUTION: Patch test must be given before colouring the hair with an aniline derivative product. Aniline derivative tints must never be used on eyelashes or eyebrows as it may cause blindness.
Hair Application Procedures
- for successful results, colorist must follow prescribed procedures
Preliminary Strand Test
- once colour formula is created for client, test on a small strand of hair
- tell how hair will react to formula and how long it should be left on hair
- done after client is prepared for coloring services
Temporary Colours
- many methods of applying
- to apply gels, mousses, foams, or sprays, return client to your work area after shampooing and apply colour according to manufacturers' directions.
Semipermanent Haircolours
- lack strong oxidizers necessary to lift
- deposit colour and do no substantial lifting
- remember colour applied on top of colour creates darker colour
- hair porosity determine how well products take
- colours may buildup on hair ends with each application
- test strand determines your formula and processing time before each service
CAUTION: Always perform patch test before applying semipermanent colour, which contains aniline derivative that may cause allergies or sensitivities.
Demipermanent (Deposit-Only) Haircolour
- application procedure similar to semipermanent since neither colour alters hair natural melanin or produce lift
- follow manufacturer's guidelines for application and processing time
- gray (unpigmented) hair
-- since no lift, resulting colour depth may appear too extreme unless you allow for some brightness in your formulation
-- usually NOT advisable to cover gray hair one even shade
--- natural hair colour has different depths and tonalities => gives added life that gray hair is lacking
- previously coloured hair will have greater porosity => must consider when formulating and applying demipermanent haircolour
Permanent Haircolour
- Single-process haircolouring:
-- process that lightens and colours hair in a single application
-- Virgin Tint Application: first time hair is tinted
-- tint retouch application
-- prelightening or presoftening NOT required
-- usually contains lightening agent, shampoo, aniline derivative tint, and alkalizing agent to activate added peroxide
-- most colour is formulated with 20 volume peroxide
-- when other volumes of peroxide used , colour results will be altered
- Double-process Colouring: (Double-Application Tinting, Two-Step Colouring)
-- two separate procedures
-- 1. hair is prelightened
--- lifts or lightens natural pigments, preliminary to application of toner
-- 2. Depositing colour applied
- wider range of haircolour possibilities
-- because lightening action and colour deposit are independently controlled
Formulation - Things to ask when formulating haircolour
1. What is the natural level? Is there any gray hair?
2. What is the client's desired level and tone?
3. Are contributing pigments (undertones) revealed?
4. What colours should be mixed to get the desired result?
- combination of shade selected and volume of hydrogen peroxide determines lifting ability of haircolour
- remember to formulate with both lift and deposit in mind
- higher lifting formula may NOT have enough depositing tonality to subdue warmth of client's natural contributing pigment
- volume of hydrogen peroxide also influence lift & deposit
Mixing Permanent Colours
- determined by type of application used
- Applicator bottle:
-- ensure bottle is large enough to hold both colour product and developer, with air space to blend by shaking
-- for 1:1 ratio, pour 1oz developer into bottle, add 1oz colour, put top on bottle & shake gently
-- for 2:1 ratio, pour 2oz developer into bottle, add 1oz colour, and mix => most permanent high-lift blonde colours
- Bowl-and-brush:
-- use nonmetallic mixing bowl
-- measure developer into bowl
-- add colour(s) selected in appropriate portions
-- with a tint applicator brush, stir mixture until thoroughly blended
-- a creamy consistency is best for control during application
Single-Process Tint Retouch
- avoid two-toned effect
- retouch new growth
- follow same preparation for virgin single-process procedure, including consultation and patch test
1. Apply tint to new growth only, being careful NOT to overlap on previously tinted hair. Overlapping can cause breakage and create a sign of roots or a line or demarcation => visible line separating coloured hair from new growth.
2. Process colour according to your analysis and strand test results
3. To refresh faded ends: formulate a demipermanent colour for the ends matching regrowth, or rinse colour through to the ends. Then shampoo.
Double-Process Colour
- for dramatically lighter colour => hair has to be prelightened
- to achieve pale or cool colours
- decoluorizing hair with a lightener, then using separate product to add desired tonality
- more control over colouring process
- contributing pigment of hair works for you
-- prelightening hair to desired degree of decolourization => create perfect foundation for longer-lasting red colours avoiding muddiness and staying true to tone
- prelightener application same as for regular hair lightening treatment
- once prelightening reached desired shade, hair lightly shampooed, acidified, and towel dried
- after strand test, colour is applied in usual manner
Lightening Techniques
- 3 forms: oil, cream, powder
- On-the-scalp Lighteners:
-- used directly on scalp
-- easy to apply
-- Oil Lightener:
--- mildest type
--- 1 or 2 levels of colour lift
--- used professionally to lighten dark facial and body hair
-- Cream Lightener:
--- strong enough for blonding
--- contain conditioning agent protecting hair and scalp
--- thickeners give more control during application
--- do not run or drip => overlapping during retouching is prevented
--- may be mixed with Activators (Boosters, Protinators, Accelerators) in dry crystal form
--- Activator: oxidizer added to hydrogen peroxide to increase chemical action => lifting power
---- greater number of activators, greater strength of formula
---- up to 3 activators can be used for on-the scalp applications
---- up to 4 activators can be used for off-the-scalp applications
- Off-the-scalp lighteners:
-- cannot be used directly on scalp
-- Powder Lighteners: (Quick Lighteners)
--- strong, fast-acting lightener in powdered form
--- strong enough for blonding
--- contain oxygen releasing boosters for quicker and stronger action
--- may dry out more quickly than other types of lighteners
--- do not run or drip
--- most expand and spread out as processing continues and should NOT use for retouch services
Time Factors
- darker the natural hair colour => more melanin it has => longer to lighten
- porous hair of same colour level lightens faster than nonporous hair => bleaching agent enter cortex more rapidly
- tone: greater percentage of red reflected in natural colour => more difficult to achieve pale, delicate shades of blonde
-- ash blondes especially difficult because melanin must be diffused sufficiently to alter both level and tone of hair
- strength of product: stronger lighteners attain pale shades faster
- heat leads to quicker lightening
-- stages of lightening must be carefully observed to avoid excessive lift leading to diffusion of so much natural pigment that desired toner shade may not develop properly in hair shaft
-- toner shade may "grab" base colour, giving hair ashy, unpigmented tone
- preform preliminary strand test prior to lightening to determine process time, condition of hair after lightening , and end results
-- watch stand for reaction to lightening mixture and any discolouration or breakage
-- reconditioning may be required prior to toning
-- if colour and condition are good => proceed
-- record all data on client's record card
-- if test shows hair not light enough => increase strength of mixture and/or processing time
-- if hair strand too light => decrease strength of mixture and/or processing time
- a patch test must be taken 24 hours prior to application of a toner containing aniline derivatives
-- to save time, strand test for lightening done same day as patch test
Lightener Retouch
- dark new growth becomes very obvious
- New Growth (Regrowth): part of hair shaft between scalp and previously treated hair.
- lighten new grown first
- same procedure as for lightening a virgin head, except mixture only applied to new hair growth
- cream lightener generally used because of consistency preventing overlapping of previously lightened hair
- overlapping causes severe breakage and lines of demarcation
- cream lighteners are gentler on scalp
- consult client's record card for information about which lightener formulas used, timing, etc.
Toners
- used primarily on prelightened hair to achieve pale, delicate colours
- requires double-process application
-- 1. application of lightener
-- 2. application of toner
- Foundation: colour that is left after hair goes through 10 stages of decolourizing
-- essential to achieve correct foundation in order to create degree of porosity required for proper toner development
- manufacturers include literature with products recommending foundations necessary to achieve desired colour
- paler the colour => lighter a foundation
- overlightened hair will "grab" base colour of toner
- underlightened hair will appear to have more red, yellow, or orange than intended colour
- NOT advisable to prelighten past pale yellow stage
-- create overporous hair with inadequate amounts of natural pigment left in cortex for toner to bond to
Preliminary Toner Application
- patch test for allergies or other sensitivities 24 hours before toner application
- stand test on same day to save time
- proceed with application if patch test results are negative and hair in good condition
- wear gloves throughout application
- speed and accuracy both important factors in application => good colour results
- procedure for applying low or nonperoxide toners may vary
NOTE: Getting clients interested in haircolouring
- wear colour in your hair
- display haircolour-related materials at workstation
-- swatches, pictures, etc.
- suggest haircolour to almost every client and see every client as a potential user of services
CAUTION: powder lighteners are used exclusively for off-the-scalp applications and special effects, such as foil-wrapped weaving, highlighting with plastic caps, and hair painting
CAUTION: when heat is used with lightening chemicals, it softens hair making it more fragile. Excessive heat increases molecules motion, causing damage by removing cuticle layers and destroying cortical bonds.
Special Effects Haircolouring
- any technique involving partial lightening or colouring
- colouring for special effects => pure fashion technique
- Highlighting:
-- colouring some hair strands lighter than natural colour, adding illusion of sheen and depth
-- do not generally contrast strongly with natural colour
-- light colours cause an area to advance toward the eye, to appear larger, and make details more visible
- Reverse Highlighting (Lowlighting):
-- colouring hair strands darker than natural colour
-- contrasting dark areas recede, appear smaller, and make details less visible
- 3 most frequently used techniques: cap technique, foil technique, balayage or free-form technique
Cap Technique
- pulling clean strands of hair through a perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal hook, then combing to remove tangles
- number of strands pulled through determines the degree of highlighting or lowlighting you can achieve
- for highlighting, hair is lightened with a bleach product or high-lifting colour, beginning in area most resistant
- lightener is removed by thorough rinsing, then shampoo
- towel-blotting and conditioning (if necessary)
- lightened hair can be toned (if desired)
Foil Technique
- colouring selected strands of hair by slicing or weaving out sections placing them on foil or plastic wrap, applying highlightener or colour, and sealing them in foil or plastic wrap
- can also apply permanent haircolour to strands to create softer, more natural-looking highlights
-- red for red highlights
- start creating clean section blocks on head
- Slicing:
-- taking narrow 1/8 inch (.3 cm) section of hair by making straight part at the scalp
-- position hair over foil and applying lightener or colour
- Weaving:
-- selected strands are picked up from a narrow section of hair with zigzag motion of the comb
-- lightener or colour applied to only these strands
- many patterns foil can be placed in hair
-- face-frame
-- half-head
-- three-quarter head
-- full-head wrapping patterns
Balayage Technique (Free-form Technique)
- painting of a lightener (power lightener) directly onto clean, styled hair
- lightener is applied with a tint brush or tail comb from base to ends around head
- effects extremely subtle, used to draw attention to surface of hair
Toning Overhighlighted and Dimensionally Coloured Hair
- when hair is decolourized to desired level during highlighting service, use of toner not needed
- if cool tonality is desired, use toner to cancel undesirable yellow contributing pigment
- when using toner on highlighted hair, consider:
-- varying degrees of porosity in hair
-- difference in pigmentation created by lightening process from strand to strand
- oxidative toner imparts colour to highlighted strands
-- also affect natural or pigmented hair causing a slight amount of lift => uneven tonality
-- underlying warmth brought out by oxidative colour
-- strand test to ensure results
- avoid affecting untreated har:
-- a nonoxidative toner (no ammonia):
--- required no developer (no lift of natural hair colour)
--- gentle on scalp and hair
-- semipermanent colour
--- deposit tonality without lift
--- not all colours are delicate enough to avoid overpowering prelightened hair
--- check manufacturers' colour chart for base colour of your chosen toner
-- demipermanent haircolour
--- deposit-only colour without ammonia
--- also used to recolour hair
-- not further decolourize but longer lasting than temporary or semipermanent toner
Highlighting Shampoos
Highlighting Shampoo Tints
- prepared by combining permanent haircolour, hydrogen peroixide, and shampoo
- used when a very slight change in hair shade is desired, or when the client's hair processes very rapidly
- highlight hair's natural colour in a single application
- patch test required
Highlighting Shampoos
- mixture of shampoo and hydrogen peroxide
- natural colour is slightly lightened
- no patch test required
- follow manufacturer's directions
Special Problems in Haircolour / Corrective Colouring
- colourist must factor in sufficient time for complete consultation with client and careful analysis of client's hair
- strand test taken to ensure satisfactory final results
- due to particular structure or condition of client's hair may cause some issues
Gray Hair: Challenges and Solutions
- gray, white, and salt-and-pepper hair present unique colouring challenges
- gray hair can turn orange if lightener is not processed long enough
Yellow Hair
- problem with gray hair: yellow cast caused by smoking, medication, exposure to sun, hair sprays, styling aids, etc.
- lightener and tint removers help remove yellow discolouration
- undesired yellow can often be overpowered by artificial pigments deposited by violet-based colours of an equal or darker level than the yellow
Formulating for Gray Hair
- grey hair accepts level of colour applied
- level 9 or lighter shades may not give complete coverage because of small % of artificial pigment formulated into these shades
- formulations from levels 6-8 give better coverage
-- used to create pastel and blonde tones
- clients who are 80 - 100% grey, haircolour in blonde range more flattering
-- give a warm or cool finished product, depending on client's skin tone, eye colour, personal preference
- colouring low % grey or salt-&-pepper hair to a darker level: colour on colour => darker colour
-- addition of dark artificial pigment to natural pigment results in colour that eye perceives as darker
-- use a shade lighter than the naturally dark salt-&-pepper hair
- strand test: a manufacturer's product colour chart can be used in conjunction with the following formulation charts below, to select a colour tonality within proper levels
-- also take into account: client's personality, personal preferences, amount of grey hair and its location
Semipermanent/Demipermanent Colour Formulation for Grey Hair
Percentage of Grey Hair - Formulation
90-100% - Desired Level
70-90% - Equal parts desired and one level lighter
50-70% - One level lighter than desired level
30-50% - Equal parts one level lighter and two levels lighter
10-30% - Two levels lighter than desired level
Permanent Colour Formulation for Grey Hair
Percentage of Grey Hair - Formulation
90-100% - Desired Level
70-90% - Two parts desired level and one part lighter level
50-70% - Equal parts desired and lighter level
30-50% - Two parts lighter level and one part desired level
10-30% - One level lighter
Presoftening
- used when grey hair is so resistant that coverage is not satisfactory
- process of treating grey or very resistant hair: better penetration of colour by opening cuticle
-- double-application haircolouring service
-- presoftener applied, processed, removed, then tint applied
- effective on pigmented resistant hair
-- NOTE: leave on hair only long enough to open cuticle, making hair porous to accept colour
--- otherwise it creates underlying warmth than desired and affect formulation and colour selection
- presoften hair: mix product according to manufacturer's directions
-- apply with brush or bottle in most resistant areas first
-- process at room temperature for 5 to 20 minutes
-- wipe colour gently with cloth or paper towel to remove
-- apply desired level and tone of colour to achieve end results
Rules for Effective Colour Correction
1. Do not panic.
2. Establish true problem.
3. Establish cause of problem.
4. Establish most suitable remedy.
5. Always take one step at a time.
6. Never guarantee an exact result.
7. Always strand test for accuracy.
Damaged Hair
- blow-drying, wind, harsh shampoos, chemical services
- coating compounds: hair sprays, styling agents, some conditioners lead to diminished colour penetration
- considered damaged:
-- rough texture
-- overporous condition
-- brittle and dry to the touch
-- susceptible to breakage
-- no elasticity
-- becomes spongy and matted when wet
-- colour fades or absorbs too rapidly
-- Any of the above create problems during a tinting, lightening, permanent waving, or hair relaxing treatment => give reconditioning treatments prior to , and after application of chemical processes
- when dealing with damaged hair:
-- use penetrating conditioner that deposit protein, oils, and moisture rich ingredients
-- complete each chemical service by normalizing pH with a finishing rinse restoring cuticle's protective capacity
-- postpone chemical service until hair is reconditioned if hair is still unresponsive after conditioning treatment
-- schedule client for between-service conditioning
-- recommend retail products for use at home to prepare for next service
Fillers
- specialized preparations designed to equalize porosity and deposit a base colour in one application
- ready-made manufacturer's preparation
- or mixture of tint and conditioner you prepared
- Conditioner Fillers:
-- recondition damaged, overly porous hair
-- applied in separate procedure or immediately prior to colour application
-- conditioner and colour are working a the same time
- Colour Fillers:
-- demipermanent colour products used when doubt as to whether the colour result will be an even shade
-- advantages:
--- deposits colour to faded ends and hair shaft
--- helps hair hold colour
--- prevents streaking and dull appearance
--- prevents off-colour results
--- produces more uniform, natural-looking colour in a tint
--- produces uniform colour when doing a tint back
Selecting Correct Colour Filler
- select colour filler that will replace the missing primary colour in your formulation
-- all 3 primaries (red, blue, yellow) must be present for natural-looking haircolour
- example: blonde (yellow) being tinted back to ash (yellow and blue) brown, use orange-red filler
- can apply directly from containers to damaged hair prior to tinting
- may be added to tint and applied to damaged ends
Fading Reds
- common problem with colour-treated red hair
- artificial pigment in hair shaft oxidizes and fades with every shampoo, blow-dry, permanent wave, exposure to sun, chlorine, or salt water
- use lower volume of hydrogen peroxide to prevent excessive fading and brassiness
- if desired depth of red is of same or deeper level than natural colour, hue achieved through deposit without excessive lift
- particularly useful in achieving and retaining violet-based reds
- for warmer or brighter (red-orange or gold) reds on darker natural levels => prelightening before application
-- lightening process naturally brings out warm contributing pigment, serve as ideal foundation for vibrant red colour
-- care not to overlighten hair => leaving hair dull, flat, lifeless colour tonality
- retouching with red-based tint: formula used to create correct amount of lift at new growth may produce too much lift if pulled through ends to refresh colour
-- red last longer if separate formula with deposit-only haircolour product applied to midshaft and ends
--- selection should correspond to tone and level used on new growth
--- strand test for correct colour choice
Tips for Reds
- use low-volume hydrogen peroxide
- prelighten darker hair to achieve brighter, warmer reds
- formulate correctly to achieve proper intensity of red
- performing retouch: always use permanent colour on new growth and refresh ends with deposit-only colour
Correct Brassiness and Other Unwanted Tones in Hair
- as artificial pigment fades, brassy red, orange, or gold notes may become apparent
- scheduling retouches at closer and closer intervals causes greater porosity and diffusion of natural pigment => brassier hair as tint fades
- FIRST: analyze hair
-- are brassy notes red, yellow, or orange?
-- locate shade on colour wheel and use complementary colour to neutralize it
-- options:
--- temporary rinses
--- soap cap during retouches
--- fillers
--- semipermanent or demipermanent colours of a neutralizing shade
Tint Removal
- change to lighter shade
- mistakes: colour build up or process too dark due to formulation error
- Colour or Tint Removers:
-- commercial prepared products designed to remove artificial pigment from hair
-- not generally sold to nonprofessionals => complex process
-- contain ingredients to diffuse pigment, both natural and artificial, sometimes mixed with hydrogen peroxide
--- others mixed with distilled water to create milder colour remover
Tint Back to Natural Colour
- sun, chlorinated pool water, prior chemical services alter hair colour
- each tinting procedure must be handled as a unique problem
- porous hair absorb colour quickly, process darker and cooler than expected, fade faster than normal
- natural pigment may be so diffused => not accept colour at all
- check hair for natural colour next to scalp
- record all observations and treatments on client's record card
- returning to natural hair colour from lighter colour may be drastic change
-- discuss options such as reverse highlighting or selection of colour 1 or 2 levels lighter than natural colour
--- gradually add more depth
--- strand test to ensure results
- use filler to even out the porosity and achieve colour correction
-- create formulation with enough warmth to prevent drab, unnatural looking colour in finished product
-- demipermanent, deposit-only colour = great choice
Soap cap
- combination of equal parts of prepared tint and shampoo
- applied to hair like shampoo
- used in conjunction with tint back to natural if tint does not exactly match natural colour
- quick soap cap will break line of demarcation
- patch test administered 24 hours prior to service, proceed if results negative
CAUTION: When performing tint removal service, never leave client unattended, as lightening may occur quite rapidly
CAUTION: Sometimes, hair is so overporous => insufficient protein bonds and natural melanin left within the cortex for artificial pigment to attach to. Hair may look "gun-metal-grey" => danger sign. Hair that is this porous is very fragile and may be close to breaking point.
Salon Menu of Services
- Booking Time: how much time scheduled for performing service
- new clients need extra 15 minutes for consultation
- junior colourist need more time to perform services
Single-process colour and/or Colour enhancement
- lighten hair, cover up grey, enhance natural haircolour
- process for 20-45 minutes
- time between appointments: 4-6 weeks
Single-process retouch colour with a glaze
- 1st step: first colour is applied to base area or new growth processed for 30-45 minutes
- 2nd step: Glaze (demipermanent, aka overlay) - nonammonia colour that adds shine and tone to hair
-- rinse out first colour, glaze is applied at shampoo bowl processed for 10-15 minutes
- time between appointments: 4-6 weeks
Double-process colour
- creates very blonde hair
- hair is prelightened first, then toned with a toner or glaze
- process takes 45-90 minutes
- time between appointments: 4-5 weeks
Double-process retouch
- only base regrowth area is lightened with a lightener and then entire head is toned or glazed to refresh colour
- time between appointments: 4-5 weeks
Dimensional haircolour (Highlighting)
- strands of hair are isolated with foil or free-hand painting to create dimension or a variety of different colours in the hair
- Face-frame highlight:
-- easy way to introduce client to highlighting
-- face is framed with foils from ear to ear
-- glaze included adding tone and shine to new highlights and existing hair
-- processing time = 30 minutes
-- time between appointments: 8-12 weeks
- Half-head highlight:
-- foils placed on sides and top of head
-- glaze included to add tone and shine to new highlights and existing colour
-- processing time = 30-45 minutes
-- time between appointments: 8-12 weeks
- Three-quarter-head Highlight:
-- foils are placed on sides, top, and back of head to the occipital bone
-- glaze included
-- processing time = 45 minutes
-- time between appointments: 8-12 weeks
- Full-head highlight:
-- foils placed all over head
-- glaze included
-- processing time = 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes
-- time between appointments: 8-12 weeks
- Special effects highlighting (Creative colour technique):
-- any highlighting service not described above such as tone on tone, reverse highlighting, scrunching
-- consultation recommended and price determined
- Corrective Colour:
-- colour situations that require special attention over a series of visits
-- consultation advised to determine time and cost involved
Haircolouring Safety Precautions
- give patch test 24 hours prior to ny application of aniline derivative. Apply tint only if patch test negative
- do NOT apply tint if abrasions present
- do NOT apply tint if metallic or compound tint is present
- do NOT brush hair prior to applying colour
- always read and follow all manufacturer's directions
- use sanitized applicator bottles, brushes, combs, and towels
- protect your client's clothing with proper draping
- perform strand test for colour, breakage, and/or discolouration
- use applicator bottle or bowl (glass or plastic) for mixing tint
- do NOT mix tint before you are ready to use it; discard leftover tint
- wear gloves to protect hands
- do NOT permit colour to come in contact with client's eyes
- do NOT overlap during a tint retouch
- use mild shampoo, an alkaline or harsh shampoo will strip colour
- always wash hands before and after serving client
CAUTION: Operator dermatitis, involves same types of negative reactions to chemicals as those a client may experience. Wear gloves!
Procedure 40 - Preliminary Strand Test
Implements & Materials
- tint cape
- plastic clips
- glass or plastic mixing bowl
- spray water bottle
- shampoo
- towels
- colour brushes
- protective gloves
- aluminum foil or plastic wrap
- client record card
- selected tint
- tint brush or bottle
- hydrogen peroxide developer
Procedure
1. Client consultation. Perform scalp & hair analysis
2. Drape client to protect skin and clothing
3. Part off 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) square strand of hair in lower crown. Using plastic clips as necessary, fasten other hair out of the way
4. Place stand over foil or plastic wrap and apply mixture. Follow application method for colour procedure you will be using
5. Check development at 5-minute intervals until desired colour achieved. Note timing on record card
6. When satisfactory colour has developed, remove protective foil or plastic wrap. Place towel under strand, mist it thoroughly with water, add shampoo, and massage through. Rinse by spraying with water. Dry strand with towel and observe results
7. Adjust formula, timing, or application method as necessary and proceed with colour service
CAUTION: Do not perform any haircolouring service if client has abrasions or inflammations on scalp. Do NOT brush hair.
Procedure 41 - Temporary Haircolour Application
Implementation and Maerials
- shampoo cape
- towels
- potective gloves
- comb
- applicator bottle (optional)
- temporary haircolour product
- shampoo
- record card
- gloves
- timer
Preparation
1. Perform client consultation
2. Ask client to remove jewelry and keep in safe place
3. Drape client for haircolouring service. Slide towel down from back of client's head and place lengthwise across client's shoulders. Cross ends of towel beneath chin and place cape over towel. Fasten cape in back. Fold towel over top of cape and secure in front
4. Shampoo and towel-dry hair
Procedure
1. Client comfortable reclined at shampoo bowl, put on gloves. Use applicator bottle. Shake product thoroughly to blend any pigments that may have settled. Apply colour and work it around entire head
2. Blend colour with comb, applying more colour as necessary
3. Do not rinse hair. Towel-blot excess product
4. Proceed with styling
Cleanup and Sanitation
1. Discard all disposable supplies and materials
2. Close containers, wipe them off, and store in proper place
3. Sanitize implements, cape, and workstation
4. Wash hands with soap and warm water
5. Record results on record card and file away
Procedure 42 - Semipermanent Haircolour Application
Implements & Materials
- applicator bottle or brush
- towels
- plastic cap (optional)
- plastic slips
- tint cape
- cotton
- protective cream
- protective gloves
- shampoo
- record card
- comb
- colour chart
- selected colour
- conditioner
- timer
Preparation
1. Perform a preliminary patch test 24 hours before service. proceed only if the test is negative
2. Client consultation. Thoroughly analyze hair and scalp. Record results on client's record card
3. Ask client to remove all jewelry and store in safe place. Drape client for haircolour service
4. Apply protective cream around hairline and over ears
5. Perform strand test. Record results on client's card
Procedure
1. Shampoo client's hair with mild shampoo, if required. Towel-dry hair
2. Part hair into 4 sections. Put on protective gloves
3. Working with 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch (.6cm to 1.25cm) subsections, apply semipermanent colour to the entire hair shaft. Start near scalp and gently work colour through ends. Apply with bottle or brush, depending on consistency of colour.
4. Pile hair loosely on top of head
5. Follow manufacturer's directions with regard to process options. Some colour require use of plastic cap
6. Process according to strand test results
7. Follow timing instructions provided by manufacturer. When colour has developed, wet client's hair with warm water and lather
8. Rinse well, then shampoo. Finish with conditioner
9. Rinse and towel-blot hair. Style as desired
Cleanup and Sanitation
1. Perform cleanup as in procedure for temporary colour rinse
2. In addition, rinse plastic bottles, bowls, and brushes and disinfect according to your state's regulations
3. Compete record card and file away
Procedure 43 - Single-Process Colour for Virgin Hair
Implements & Materials
- Use list under procedure 42
- plastic or glass bowl and applicator brush or applicator bottle
- selected permanent haircolour
- hydrogen peroxide
Preparation
- Same as procedure 42 including patch test
Procedure
1. Part dry hair into 4 sections
2. Apply protective cream to hairline and ears
3. Prepare tint formula for either bottle or brush application
4. Begin section where colour change will be greatest or where hair is most resistant, usually hairline and temple areas. part off a 1/4 inch (.6cm) subsection with applicator
5. Lift subsection and apply colour to the midshaft area. Stay at least 1/2 inch (1.25cm) from the scalp, and do not go through porous ends
TIP: hair at the scalp processes faster due to body heat. Colour is applied in scalp area only after being applied to shaft. Your strand test will determine the application procedure and timing for even colour development
6. Process according to strand test results. Check for colour development by removing colour as described in strand test procedure
7. Apply colour to hair at scalp
8. Pull colour through onto hair ends
9. Lightly rinse with lukewarm water. massage colour into a lather and rinse thoroughly
10. Remove any stains around hairline with shampoo or stain remover. Use towel to gently remove stains
11. Shampoo hair. Condition as needed
12. Towel-dry and style hair
13. Perform cleanup and sanitation as in procedure for semipermanent haircolour application
14. Complete client's record card and file away
15. Follow cleanup and sanitation procedure for procedure 42
Procedure 44 - Lightening Virgin Hair
Implements & Materials
- towels
- comb
- protective gloves
- platic clips
- tint cape
- plastic or glass bowl
- shampoo
- peroxide
- acid or finishing rinse
- cotton
- record card
- applicator bottle or brush
- lightener
- timer
- protective cream
Preparation
- Same as procedure 42 including patch test. Carefully analyze hair and record all information on client card
Procedure
1. Divide dry hair in 4 sections
2. Apply protective cream around hairline and over ears
3. Put on protective gloves
4. Prepare lightening formula and use it immediately to prevent deterioration
5. Apply lightener. Begin application where hair seems resistant or especially dark, usually at the back of head. Use 1/8 inch (.3cm) partings to apply the lightener. Start 1/2 inch (1.25cm) from the scalp and extend lightener up to, but not through, porous ends. Apply lightener to top and underside of subsection in quick rhythmic movements
6. Place strips of cotton at scalp area along parts to prevent lightener from touching base of hair. Complete all 4 sections in this manner
7. Continue to apply lightener. Double-check application, adding more lightener if necessary. Do not comb lightener through hair. keep lightener moist during development by reapplying as the mixture dries on the hair
8. Check for lightening action about 15 minutes before time indicated by preliminary strand test. Spray air strand with water bottle and remove lightener with damp towel. Examine strand. If strand is not light enough, reapply mixture and continue testing frequency until desire level reached
9. Remove cotton from scalp area. Apply lightener to hair near scalp with 1/8 inch (.3cm) parting. Prepare fresh lightener. process and perform your stand test until entire shaft has reached desired stage
10. Rinse hair thoroughly with tepid water. Shampoo gently and condition as needed, keeping your hands under hair to avoid tangling
11. Neutralize alkalinity of hair with conditioner. Recondition if necessary
12. Towel-dry hair, or dry it completely under a cool dryer if manufacturer requires it
13. Examine scalp for any abrasions. Analyze condition of hair
14. Proceed with toner application if desired
15. Perform cleanup and sanitation as in procedure 42
Procedure 45 - Toner Application
Implements & Materials
- towels
- tail comb
- protective gloves
- plastic clips
- tint cape
- plastic or glass bowl
- shampoo
- peroxide
- acid or finishing rinse
- cotton
- protective cream
- record card
- toner
- applicator bottle or brush
- timer
Preparation
1. Prelighten hair to desired stage of decolorization
2. Shampoo hair lightly, rinse, and towel-dry. Condition as necessary
3. Select desired toner shade
4. Apply protective cream around hairline and over ears
5. Take stand test and record results on client's record card
6. If using oxidative toner, mix toner and developer in a nonmetallic bowl or bottle, following manufacturer's directions
Procedure
1. Part hair into 4 equal sections, using end of tail comb or tint brush. Avoid scratching scalp
2. At crown of one of back sections, part off 1/4 inch (.6cm) partings and apply toner from scalp up to, but not including, porous ends
3. Take strand test. If indicates proper colour development, gently work toner through ends of hair, using brush or fingers
4. If necessary for coverage, apply additional toner to hair and blend it in. Leave hair loosely piled to permit air circulation or cover hair with a cap if required
5. Time procedure according to strand test. Check frequently until desired shade has been reached evenly throughout shaft and ends
6. Remove toner by wetting hair and massaging toner into lather
7. Rinse, shampoo gently , and rinse well again
8. Apply conditioner to close the cuticle, lower pH, and help prevent fading
9. Remove any toner stains from skin, hairline, and neck
10. Style as desired. Use caution to avoid streching hair
11. Perform cleanup and sanitation as in procedure 42
TIP: Do not bring toner mixture down through porous ends until end of procedure, and then only if you are planning to change the tonal value or you are correcting significant fading. To do so will only make hair even more porous and more susceptible to continued fading
CAUTION: In all procedures requiring use of towel to check for lightening level, make sure that towel is damp. Blot - do not rub - strand. Rubbing could cause roughening of cuticle, giving false reading for entire process
Procedure 46 - Special Effects Haircolouring with Foil
Implements & Materials
- tint cape
- towel
- foil
- gloves
- plastic clips
- bowl/brushes
- tail comb
- brush
- lightener
- record card
- applicator bottle
Preparation
- same as procedure 44 including patch test (if toner will be applied) and strand test. Carefully analyze hair and record all information on client card
Procedure
1. With tail comb, take a slice of hair at lower crown area of head
2. Place piece of foil under slice of hair
3. Holding hair taut, brush on lightener, from upper edge of foil to hair ends
4. Fold foil in half until ends meet
5. Fold right side of foil halfway, using comb to crease it. Fold left side of foil halfway
6. Clip foil upward
7. Take 3/4 inch (1.8cm) subsection in between foils. Clip this hair up and out of way (Note the contrast in size between the foiled and unfoiled subsections)
8. continue working down the back center of head until section is complete
9. Once section is complete, release clipped-up foils
10. Working around head into side area, divide it into 2 smaller sections
11. Working down side, bring fine slices of hair into the foil and apply lightener to hair. Clip up foil
12. Move to other side of head and complete matching sections
13. Move to top of head. Take a fine slice of hair off top of a large section, place it on foil, apply lightener
14. Part out larger section, take a fine slice from top of this section. Apply lightener
15. Continue toward front until last foil is placed
16. Allow lightener to process according to strand test. Check foils to see if you've achieved desired lightness
17. Remove foils one at a time at the shampoo area. Rinse hair immediately to prevent colour from affecting untreated hair
18. Apply haircolor glaze to hair, from base to ends
19. Work glae into hair to make sure it is completely saturated. Process up to 20 minutes
20. Rinse hair. Shampoo and condition
21. Style hair as desired
22. Perform cleanup and sanitation as in procedure 42
