Principles of Hair Design
- goal: design appropriate hairstyle for client
- analyzing entire person, using elements and principles of design with understanding of how they can enhance your client's positive features and minimize negative features
Philosophy of Design
- good designer always visualizes finished product before beginning project
- first step in creative process: inspiration
-- newspaper, TV, radio, faces on bus, food, furniture, toys, etc
-- nature: ocean waves, shapes and colours of flowers, leaf, star
-- past, fashion pages of magazines
- decide which applications and tools needed to achieve your design
-- cutting shears, Velcro rollers, permanent wave, haircolour, etc.
- good practice when working on a design to practice on a mannequin head
- develop strong visual understanding of which hairstyles work best on which face shapes and body types
-- best teacher is time and the trial and error that comes with experience
- learning rules (foundation) is imperative
-- allows you to take calculated risks
- don't be "cookie cutter" hairdresser
-- explore new possibilities, catering to each client's individual needs and lifestyle
-- styling rut: "the box"
- designers are always growing and learning
Elements of Hair Design
- 5 basic elements of hair design: form, space, line, colour, and wave pattern
Form
- outline of overall hairstyle as seen from all angles
- 3-dimensional and changes as it is viewed from different angles
- silhouette is typically the aspect of overall design that client will react to first
- use forms that are simple and pleasing to the eye
- should be proportion to shape of head and face, length and width of neck and shoulder line
Space (Volume)
- area that hairstyle occupies
- area inside the form
- 3-dimensional and has length, width, and depth
- may contain curls, curves, waves, straight hair, or combination
Line
- eye follows lines in a design
- create form, design, and movement of hairstyle
- straight or curved
1. Horizontal lines are parallel
- extending in same direction
- maintaining constant distance apart
-- to floor or horizon
- creates width in hair design
-- eyes follows line from center out to ends
2. Vertical lines
- straight up and down
- make hairstyle appear longer and narrower as eye follows lines up and down
3. Diagonal lines
- positioned between horizontal and vertical lines
- emphasize or minimize facial features
- create interest in hair design
4. Curved lines
- soften a design
- large or small
- full or part of a circle
- placed horizontally, vertically, or diagonally
- curved lines repeating in opposite directions create a wave
Designing with Lines
- 4 kinds of hairstyles can be developed based on type of lines you choose
1. Single-line hairstyles
- best for minimum care when styling hair
- one-length hairstyle
2. Repeating lines
- parallel lines in hairstyle
- straight or curved
- creates more intrest in design
- finger wave - curved repeating lines
3. Contrasting lines
- horizontal and vertical lines that meet at 90-degree angle
- create hard edge
- reserved for personality that carry off strong look
4. Transitional lines
- curved lines used to blend or soften horizontal or vertical lines
Colour
- visually and psychologically play important role in hair design
- used to make design appear larger or smaller
- create textures and lines and can tie design elements together
- lighter colour => youthful & exciting
- darker colour => seductive & mysterious
- warm colours => soft
- cooler colours => bold & dramatic
Creating Dimension with Colour
- light and warm colours create illusion of volume
- dark & cool colours recede or move in toward head
-- create illusion of less volume
- colours that are warm & cool alternate with light & dark
-- illusion of dimension or depth
Creating Lines with Colour
- using lighter colour, you can draw a line in the hairstyle in the direction you want the eye to travel
- single line or a series of repeated lines create bold, dramatic accent
Colour Selection
- when selecting colour, make sure tone is compatible with skin tone
- if client has gold tones in skin, select warm hair colours
- using 2 or more colours, choose similar tones within 2 levels of each other
- using high contrast colours, use one colour sparingly
-- too much contrast will create an attention-grabbing look => use only on very trendy clients that can carry off a bold look
Wave Pattern
- all hair has natural wave pattern
-- straight, wavy, curly, or extremely curly
- must take into consideration when designing a style for your client
-- straight hair reflects light better than other wave patterns => reflects most light when cut to one length
-- wavy hair combed into waves create horizontal lines
-- curly and extremely curly hair does not reflect much light and may be coarse to touch
--- creates larger form than straight or wavy hair
Creating Wave Patterns with Styling Tools
- create wave pattern temporarily with heat or wet styling
- curling irons or hot rollers => create wave or curl
- curly hair can be straightened with blow-dryer or flat iron
- crimping irons are used to create interesting and unusual wave patters like zigzags
- wet-set with rollers or pin curls to create curls and waves
- finger waves create temporary wave pattern changes
Changing Wave Patterns with Chemicals
- chemical wave pattern changes are permanent
- last until new growth is long enough to alter design
- curly hair can be straightened with relaxers
- straight hair can be curled with permanent waves
Tips for Designing with Wave Patterns
- sing too many wave pattern combinations create overly busy look
-- maybe fine for young client
-- less appropriate for a conservative professional client
- smooth wave patterns accent face and narrow round head shape
- curl wave patterns take attention away from face and soften square or rectangular features
Principles of Hair Design
- 5 principles important for art design also basis for hair design
1. Proportions
- harmonious relationship between parts or things, or the comparative relation of one thing to another
- person with very small chin and very wide forehead may have head shape out of proportion
- right hairstyle go a long way toward giving illusion of proper proportion
- Body Proportion
-- take into account of client's body proportions
-- more obvious if hair form is too small or too large
-- a more volume style suits woman with large hips or broad shoulders
-- hair should not be wider than centre of shoulders
2. Balance
- harmony or proportion
- proper degree of height and width
- symmetrical or asymmetrical
- if you are dissatisfied with a finished hair design => style is out of balance
- Measure Symmetry:
-- divide face into 4 equal parts
-- where lines cross is central axis => reference point for judging balance of hair design
-- decide f hairstyle looks pleasing to eye and in correct balance
- Symmetrical Balance:
-- design similar on both sides of face, same distance from centre, length, and volume
-- less trendy than asymmetrical styles
- Asymmetrical Balance:
-- unequal proportions designed to balance facial features
-- opposite sides of hairstyle are different lengths or have different volume
-- horizontal or diagonal
3. Rhythm
- regular, recurrent pattern of movement in hairstyle
- fast or slow
- fast rhythm moves quickly => tight curls
- slow rhythm => larger shapings or long waves
4. Emphasis
- where the eye turns first before travelling to the rest of the design
- interesting hairstyle has an area of focus or emphasis
-- wave patterns
-- colour
-- change in form
-- ornamentation
- choose area of head or face you want to emphasize
- keep design simple so easy for eye to follow from point of emphasis to rest of style
- have multiple points of emphasis as long as they decrease in size and importance
- careful not to use too many => too busy (less is more)
- make sure ornaments are appropriate to total look of client and do not overpower hairstyle
5. Harmony
- orderly and pleasing arrangement of shapes and lines
-- most important of art principles
- holds all elements of design together
- has pleasing form with interesting lines, pleasing colour or combination of colours, and right balance and rhythm for design
- harmonious style in proportion to client's facial and body structure including area of emphasis from which eyes move to rest of style
Creating Harmony Between Hairstyle & Facial Structure
- analyze client's facial features for strengths and shortcomings
- accentuate client's best features and downplay others
- hairstyles properly proportioned to body type and balanced to head and facial features, attractively frame face
- take into account
-- shape of head; front view, profile, back view
-- features
-- body posture
How Hair Types Influence Hair Design Decisions
- consider hair texture & wave pattern
- wave patterns: straight, wavy, curly, extremely curly
- texture: fine, medium, coarse
- Fine, Straight Hair:
-- hugs head shape (no body or volume)
-- silhouette small & narrow
-- if not appropriate for client, think styling aids or chemical services for flattering style
-- hair do not offer enough support for versatility in styling
- Straight, Medium Hair:
-- offers more versatility in styling
-- responds well to blow-drying with various brush sizes
-- good amount of movement
-- rollers and thermal styling
- Straight, Coarse Hair:
-- hard to curl and carries more volume
-- slightly wider silhouette
-- responds well to thermal styling
-- blow-drying with round brush => too poofy (hair shaft very wider diameter)
--- use flat brushes for blow-dry
-- chemical services take longer to process
- Wavy, Fine Hair:
-- appear fuller with appropriate haircut & style
-- layering look fuller
-- responds well to blow-drying and chemical services
-- do NOT overdo services (hair fragile)
-- straighten easily with blow-dry (sacrifice volume)
--- hair fuller appearance diffused
- Wavy, Medium Hair:
-- many styling options (most versatility in styling)
-- hair diffused dry => curly
-- blow-dried => straight
-Wavy, Coarse Hair:
-- silhouette can get very wide
-- unruly if not shaped properly
-- blow-drying easier for stylist than client
-- work out a flattering shape that is easily maintained if client not good with own hair
-- chemical services like mild relaxers works well
-- soft perm bring client to a wash-and-wear curly style
-- up to you to educate client toward right decision and teach how to maintain style at home
- Curly, Fine Hair:
-- left too long, can separate and revel too much scalp unless hair is abundant
-- respond well to mild relaxer and colour
-- blow-dry difficult unless hair is cut into short layers
--- in humidity => curly hair again
- Curly, Medium Hair:
-- wide silhouette (should be proportion to body, not overwhelm it)
-- romantic if left natural
-- shape hair appropriately, look at weight line of haircut will fall
-- responds well to relaxers and colour
- Curly, Coarse Hair
-- needs lots of heavy styling product to weight it down
-- hair will shrink considerably when dry
- Very Curly, Fine Hair:
-- most flattering shape for client must be determined
-- best left short => ease of styling
-- long hair wide silhouette, extremely voluminous
-- chemical services take well, careful with relaxing (fragile hair)
-- hair pressing (temporary straightening) option but do NOT overdo
- Extremely Curly, Medium Hair
-- silhouette very wide (hair looks wider as it grows)
-- chemical relaxers work very well => narrows shape
-- hair pressing good option
-- thermal styling can follow pressing
-- hair left in natural state, cropping close to head in flattering shape is great for ease of styling and low maintenance
- Extremely Curly, Coarse Hair:
-- silhouette extremely wide without proper maintenance
-- chemical relaxing recommended (if not to straighten hair, then enough to style easier)
--- other services will be easier to perform
-- too thick to tie back ponytail
-- if client refuse chemical services, try short, cropped layers to narrow silhouette
Facial Types
- facial shape determined by position and prominence of facial bones
- determine facial shape - pull hair off face using towel or ponytail
- 7 basic shapes
-- oval
-- round
-- square
-- oblong
-- triangle (ear-shaped)
-- inverted triangle (heart-shaped)
-- diamond
- generally try to create illusion of oval-shaped face
- face can be divided into 3 zones:
-- forehead to eyebrow
-- eyebrows to end of nose
-- end of nose to bottom of chin
Oval Facial Type
- contour & proportions of this ideal face shape form basis for modifying all other facial types
- Facial Contour:
-- 1 1/2 times longer than its width across brow
-- forehead slightly wider than chin
- can wear any hairstyle unless consideration of eyeglasses, length & shape of nose, or profile
Round Facial Type
- Facial Contour:
-- round hairline, round chin line; wide face
- Aim:
-- create illusion of length to face, making face slimmer
- Styling Choice:
-- create hairstyle with height & volume on top; closeness or no volume at sides
Square Facial Type
- Facial Contour:
-- wide at temples, narrow at middle third of face, squared off at jaw
- Aim:
-- offst or round out square features
- Styling Choice:
-- soften hair around temples and jaw, bringing shape or silhouette close to head form
-- create volume around area between temples and jaw (adding width around ear)
Triangular (Pear-shaped) Facial Type
- Facial Contour:
-- narrow forehead, wide jaw and chin line
- Aim:
-- create illusion of width in forehead
- Styling Choice:
-- build hairstyle that has volume at temples and some height at top
-- disguise narrowness of forehead with soft fringe
Oblong Facial Type
- Facial Contour:
-- long, narrow face with hollow cheeks
- Aim:
-- make face appear shorter and wider
- Styling Choice:
-- keep hair fairly close to top of head
-- add volume to sides to create illusion of width
-- hair should not be too long
-- chin length is most effective
Diamond Facial Type
- Facial Contour:
-- narrow forehead
-- extreme width through cheekbones
-- narrow chin
- Aim:
-- to reduce width across cheekbone line
- Styling Choice:
-- increase fullness across jawline and forehead
-- keep hair close to head a cheekbone line
-- avoid hairstyles that lift away from cheeks or move back from hairline on the sides near ear area
Inverted Triangle Facial Type
- Facial Contour:
-- wide forehead, narrow chin line
- Aim:
-- decrease width of forehead
-- increase width in lower part of face
- Styling Choice:
-- reduce width of forehead by styling hair close to head with no volume
--- fringe recommended
-- gradually increase width of silhouette as you style middle third of the shape in cheekbone area and near ears
-- keep silhouette to its widest at jaw and neck area
Special Considerations
Top 3rd of Face
- Wide Forehead:
-- direct hair forward over sides of forehead
- Narrow Forehead:
-- direct hair away from face at the forehead
-- lighter highlights can be used at temples to create illusion of width
Middle 3rd of Face
- Close-set Eyes:
-- usually found on long, narrow faces
-- direct hair back and away from face at temples
-- side movement from a diagonal back part with some height
-- slight lightening of hair at corner of eyes give illusion of width
- Wide-set Eyes:
-- usually found on round or square faces
-- higher half bang to create length in face (illusion of larger face)
-- hair slightly darker at sides than top
- Crooked Nose:
-- asymmetrical, off-centre styles best (attract eyes away from nose)
- Wide, Flat nose:
-- draw hair away from face
-- use centre part to help elongate and narrow nose
- Long, Narrow Nose:
-- avoid styles tapered close to head on sides and height on top
-- avoid middle parts or too much hair toward face
-- select styles where hair moves away from face (illusion of wider facial features)
Lower 3rd of Face
- Round Jaw:
-- straight lines at jawline
- Square Jaw:
-- curved lines at jawline
- Long Jaw:
-- hair should be full and fall below jaw to direct attention away
Profile
- outline of face, head, or figure seen in side view
1. Straight Profile:
- ideal
- all hairstyles flattering to straight or normal profile
2. Convex Profile: curving outward
- receding forehead and chin
- calls for curls or bangs over forehead
- keep style clos to head at nape
- move hair forward in chin area
3. Concave Profile: curing inward
- prominent forehead and chin
- other features receded inward
- softly style hair at nape with upward movement
- do not build hair onto forehead
Receding Forehead:
- direct bangs over forehead with outwardly directed volume
Large Forehead:
- bangs with little or no volume to cover forehead
Small Nose:
- considered child-like quality
- best hairstyle not associated with children
- hair swept off face, creating line from nose to ear
- top hair moved off forehead (illusion of length to nose)
Prominent Nose:
- draw attention away from nose, bring hair forward at forehead with softness around face
Receding Chin:
- hair directed forward in chin area
Small Chin:
- move hair up and away from face along chin line
Large Chin:
- hair longer or shorter than chin line, not draw attention to chin
Head Shape
- not all head shapes are round
- important to feel head shape before deciding on hairstyle
- design style with volume in areas that are flat or small
- reducing volume in areas that are large or prominent
Styling for People with Glasses
- arm of glasses can push hair at ear and cause it to stick out
- short hair: reconsider length of hair around ear
-- leave little longer or cut hair above and around ear
- styling purpose, choose style enough hair covering ear, or direct hair away from face
Hair Parts
- can be focal point => eyes drawn to a part
- part must be neat, striaght, directed positively
- best to use natural part
Parts for Fringe (Bangs)
- Fringe (Bangs):
-- triangle section that begins at the apex or high point of head, ends at front corners
- parted in 3 basic ways:
1. Triangular Part:
- basic parting for fringe sections
2. Diagonal Part:
- gives height to a round or square face
- width to a long, thin face
3. Curved Part:
- receding hairline or high forehead
Style Parts
1. Side Parts:
- direct hair across top of ead
- develop height on top
- make thin hair appear fuller
2. Centre Parts:
- classic
- used for oval face
- give oval illusion to wide and round faces
- do not use centre part on prominent noses
3. Diagonal Back Parts:
- create illusion of width or height in hairstyle
4. Zigzag Parts:
- create dramatic effect
Designing for Men
- all hair lengths are acceptable for men
- choose styles that are flattering, appropriate for client's career, hair type and lifestyle
Choosing Moustache and Beard Shapes
- greatly disguise facial flaw on male clients
- if client does not have prominent chin (neatly trimmed full beard)
- if man has wide face and full cheeks, close-trimmed beard and moustache
- balding man with closely trimmed hair may look good in closely groomed beard and moustache
- sideburns, moustaches without beards, and beard shapes dictated by current trends
Saturday 26 November 2011
Sunday 13 November 2011
Notes for Properties of Hair & Scalp
Properties of the Hair & Scalp
Trichology
- scientific study of hair, its diseases, and care
- hair = trichos
- study of = ology
Structure of Hair
- Integument: outer covering encloses entire body
-- includes hair, skin, nails
-- fastest growing organ of human body
- full-grown human hair:
-- Hair Root: located below surface of scalp
-- Hair Shaft: projects above skin
Structures of Hair Root
- Follicle:
-- tube-like depression or pocket in skin or scalp containing hair root
-- extends from the epidermis (outer layer of skin) into the dermis (inner skin layer) surrounding dermal papilla
-- not uncommon for more than one hair grow from single follicle
- Bulb:
-- lowest area or part of a hair strand
-- thickened, club-shaped structure that forms lower part of hair root
-- lower part of hair bulb fits over and covers dermal papilla
- Dermal Papilla:
-- plural - papillae
-- small cone-shaped elevation located at base of hair follicle that fits into the hair bulb
-- contains blood and nerve supply providing nutrients needed for hair growth
- Arrector Pili Muscle:
-- minute, involuntary muscle fibre in skin inserted in the base of hair follicle
-- fear or cold contract making hair stand up straight "goose bumps"
- Sebaceous Glands (Oil Glands):
-- oil glands of skin, connected to hair follicles
-- secrete an oily substance called Sebum, lubricating hair and skin
Structures of Hair Shaft
- Cuticle:
-- outermost layer of hair
-- single overlapping layer of transparent, scale-like cells like shingles on a roof
-- healthy, compact cuticle layer is hair's primary defence against damage
-- swelling hair raises cuticle layer and opens space between scales, allowing liquids to penetrate
-- oxidation haircolours, permanent waving solutions, and chemical hair relaxers must have an alkaline pH in order to penetrate cuticle layer and reach target within cortex
- Cortex:
-- middle layer of hair
-- fibrous protein core formed by elongated cells containing melanin pigment
-- about 90% of total weight
-- elasticity of hair and natural colour are results of the unique protein structures located within cortex
-- changes involved in oxidation haircolouring, wet setting, thermal styling, permanent waving, and chemical hair relaxing takes place here
- Medulla (Pith of the hair):
-- innermost layer
-- composed of round cells
-- common for very fine and naturally blonde hair to entirely lack medulla
-- only think, coarse hair contains medulla (i.e. male beard hair)
-- "empty" air space, not involve in salon services
Chemical Composition of Hair
- hair is composed of protein that grows from cells originating within hair follicle (hair shaft begins)
- begin journey upward through hair follicle
- mature in process called Keratinization
- as these newly formed cells mature, they fill up with fibrous protein called Keratin, then move upward, lose their nucleus, and die
- when hair shaft emerges from scalp, cells of hair are completely keratinized and no longer living
- hair shaft emerges from scalp is nonliving fiber composed of keratinized protein
- hair is approximately 91% protein, made up of long chains of amino acids, made up of elements
- elements of human hair are carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur
-- also major elements found in skin, nails
-- referred to as COHNS elements
Element - Percentage in Normal Hair
Carbon - 51%
Oxygen - 21%
Hydrogen - 6%
Nitrogen - 17%
Sulfur - 5%
Amino Acids
- units of structure in protein
- linked together end to end like pop beads
- Peptide Bond: chemical bond that joins amino acids to each other
- Polypeptide Chain:
-- long change of amino acids linked by peptide bonds
-- intertwine around each other in a spiral shape called Helix
Side Bonds of Cortex
- cortex is made up of millions of polypeptide chains cross-linked together like a ladder by 3 different types of side bonds: hydrogen bonds, salt bonds, and disulfide bonds
- holds hair fibres in place and account for incredible strength and elasticity of human hair
- essential to wet sets, thermal styling, permanent waving, and chemical hair relaxing
- Hydrogen Bond:
-- physical side bond
-- easily broken by water or heat
-- very weak individually but so many of them
-- account for 1/3 of hair's overall strength
- Salt Bond:
-- physical side bond
-- broken by changes in pH (strong alkaline or acidic solutions)
-- account for 1/3 of hair's overall strength
- Disulfide Bond:
-- chemical side bond
-- joins sulphur atoms of two neighbouring Cysteine amino acids to create Cystine
-- far fewer disulfide bonds
-- account for 1/3 of hair's overall strength
-- permanent waves and chemical hair relaxers change shape of hair by chemically changing hair's disulfide bonds
-- thio permanent waves break disulfide bonds, reforming them by thio neutrilizers
-- hydroxide chemical hair relaxers break disulfide bonds which are converted to lanthionine bonds
--- disulfide bonds broken permanently and never be reformed
Hair Pigment
- natural hair colour result of pigment located within cortex
- Melanin: tiny grains of pigment in cortex that give natural colour of hair
-- Eumelanin: brown & black colour to hair
-- Pheomelanin: red & ginger to yellow/blonde tones
Bonds of Hair
bond: hydrogen
type: side bond
strength: weak physical
broken by: water or heat
reformed by: drying or cooling
bond: salt
type: side bond
strength: weak physical
broken by: changes in pH
reformed by: normalizing pH
bond: disulfide
type: side bond
strength: strong chemical
broken by: 1. thio perms & thio relaxers 2. hydroxide relaxers
reformed by: 1. oxidation with neutralizer 2. converted to lanthionine bonds
bond: peptide
type: end bond
strength: strong chemical
broken by: chemical depilatories
reformed by: not reformed; hair dissolves
Wave Pattern
- amount of movement in hair strand
- straight, wavy, curly, or extremely curly
- genetics and racial background
- may also vary from strand to strand on same person's head
- most popular theory, shape of hair's cross-section determines amount of curl
-- round cross-section = straight
-- oval cross-section = wavy
-- flat cross-section = curly
- modern microscopes shows cross-section of hair can be any shape including triangular and shape of cross-section does not always relate to amount of curl
- now believed natural curl is result of one side of hair strand growing faster than other side
- hair has different diameters from fine to coarse, regardless of wave pattern
- all hair comes in different textures and densities
Straight Hair
- any hair type without regard to texture or density
- find coarse, dense or thin
- fairly regular and uniform diameter along a single strand
- cross-section of hair are usually round
Wavy Hair
- cross-section usually oval
- fairly regular and uniform diameter along a single strand
Extremely Curly Hair
- grows in long twisted spirals
- cross-sections highly oval and vary in shape and thickness along their length
- quite irregular varying diameters along single strand
- coiled hair usually fine texture
-- usually has low elasticity, breaks easily, tendency to knot, especially on ends
-- gentle scalp manipulations, conditioning shampoo, and detangling rinse help minimize tangles
Hair Analysis
- successful salon services must begin with thorough analysis of client's hair type and present condition
- determines beforehand results reasonably expected from service
- observation using senses of sight, touch, hearing, and smell
- main factors to consider: texture, porosity, elasticity, density
- other factors growth pattern, dryness and oiliness
Hair Texture
- thickness or diameter of individual hair strand
- coarse, medium, fine
- texture can also vary from strand to strand on same person's head
-- hair from nape (back of neck), crown, temples, and front hairline of same person may all have different textures
- coarse hair textures has largest diameter
-- stronger than fine hair
-- requires more processing and be more resistant to it
-- usually more difficult for hair lighteners, haircolours, permanent waving solutions, chemical hair relaxers to penetrate coarse hair
- medium hair texture most common
-- standard to which hair is compared
-- consider normal and does not pose any special problems or concerns
- fine hair has smallest diameter
-- more fragile
-- easier to process
-- more susceptible to damage from chemical services
- hair texture determined by feeling a single dry strand between fingers
-- take individual strand from 4 different areas of head (front hairline, temple, crown, nape)
-- hold strand securely with one hand while feeling it with thumb and forefinger of other hand
Hair density
- measures number of individual hair strands on one square inch (2.5cm) of scalp
- indicates how many hairs on a person's head
- low, medium, high (or thin, medium, thick-dense)
- different individuals with same hair texture can have different densities
- average hair density about 2,200 hairs per square inch
- average head of hair contains 100,000 individual hair strands
- number of hairs on head generally varies with colour of hair
- blondes usually have highest density
- redheads tend to have lowest density
Number of Hairs on Head by Hair Colour
Hair Colour - Number of Hairs on Head
Blonde - 140,000
Brown - 110,000
Black - 108,000
Red - 80,000
Hair Porosity
- ability of hair to absorb moisture
- degree of porosity is directly related to condition of cuticle layer
- healthy hair with compact cuticle layer is naturally resistant to penetration
- porous hair has raised cuticle layer easily absorbs water
- low porosity hair => resistant hair
-- chemical services performed on hair with low porosity require more alkaline solution
-- alkaline solution raise cuticle and permit uniform saturation and processing
- average porosity hair => normal hair
-- chemical services usually process as expected, according to texture
- high porosity hair => overly porous result of previous overprocessing
-- damaged, dry, fragile, brittle
-- chemical services require less alkaline solutions with lower pH preventing additional overprocessing
- texture of hair not indication of porosity
- check porosity on dry hair by taking strand of several hairs from 4 different areas of head (front hairline, temple, crown, nape)
-- hold strand securely with one hand while sliding thumb and forefinger of other hand from end to scalp
-- if hair feels smooth and cuticle is compact, dense, and hard => resistant
-- if slight roughness, considered porous
-- if hair very rough, dry, or breaks => overly porous
Hair Elasticity
- ability of hair to stretch and return to original length without breaking
- indication of strength of side bonds that hold hair's individual fibres in place
- wet hair with normal elasticity will stretch up to 50 percent of original length and return to same length without breaking
- dry hair stretches about 1/5 of its length
- normal elasticity hair holds curl from wet set and permanent waves without excessive relaxing
- low elasticity hair is brittle and breaks easily
-- may not be able to hold curl from wet setting, thermal styling, or permanent waving
-- result of weak side bonds from previous overprocessing
-- chemical services require milder solution with lower pH
--- minimize damage and helps prevent additional overprocessing
- check elasticity on wet hair, taking strands from 4 different areas of head (front hairline, temple, crown, nape)
-- hold single strand of wet hair securely and try to pull it apart
-- if hair stretches and returns to original length without breaking => normal elasticity
-- if hair breaks easily or fails to return to original length => low elasticity
Growth Patterns
- hair follicles NOT usually grow perpendicular to scalp
- Hair Stream:
-- hair flowing in same direction
-- follicles sloping in same direction
-- 2 streams flowing in opposite directions form natural part in hair
- Whorl:
-- hair that forms in circular pattern (crown)
- Cowlick:
-- turf of hair strands straight up
-- more noticeable at front hairline, but may be anywhere
Dry Hair & Scalp
- caused by inactive sebaceous glands
- aggravated by dry winter or desert climate
- lack of natural oils (sebum) leads to flaky scalp and hair appearing dull, dry, and lifeless
- treat with products containing moisturizers and emollients
- avoid frequent shampoo and strong soaps, detergents, or products with high alcohol content
-- may aggravate condition
- should not be confused with overly porous hair damaged by thermal styling, environmental forces, or chemical services
Oily Hair & Scalp
- caused by overactive sebaceous glands characterized by greasy buildup on scalp and oily coating on hair
- treat with clarifying or normalizing shampoos
- control with well-balanced diet, exercise, regular shampooing, good personal hygiene
Hair Growth
Vellus (Lanugo)
- short, fine, and downy hair
- not pigmented and almost never have medulla
- found on infants and present until puberty
- on adults found in places normally considered hairless
-- forehead, eyelids, bald scalp, nearly all other areas (except palms and soles)
- women retain 55% more vellus
- helps in efficient evaporation of perspiration
- about 1mm long
Terminal Hair
- long, soft hair found on scalp, legs, arms, and bodies of males and females
- coarser than vellus hair and pigmented (except grey)
- usually has medulla
- hormonal changes during puberty cause vellus hair to be replaced with terminal hair
- all follicles capable of producing vellus or terminal hair
-- depends on genetics, age, hormonal changes
Growth Cycles of Hair
1. Anagen: Growth Phase:
- new hair is produced
- hair actively manufactures new keratinized cells in hair follicle
- in this phase, hair cells produced faster than any other normal cell in human body
- average growth of healthy scalp hair - 1/2 inch (1.25cm) per month
- rate of growth varies on different parts of body, sexes, age
- scalp hair grows faster on women
- scalp hair grows rapidly between 15-30 but slows down sharply after age 50
- about 90% of scalp hair in anagen phase at any time
- each specific hair, anagen phase lasts 3-5 years, in some cases as long as 10 years
2. Catagen: Transition Phase:
- brief transition period between growth and resting phases of hair follicle
- follicle canal shrinks and detaches from dermal papilla
- hair bulb disappears
- shrunken root end forms rounded club
- less than 1% scalp hair in catagen phase at any time
- lasts 1-2 weeks
3. Telogen: Resting Phase
- lasts until fully grown hair is shed
-- either during telogen phase or remains until next anagen phase, when new hair pushes old out
- about 10% of scalp hair in telogen phase at any time
- lasts 3-6 months
- when telogen phase ends, returns to anagen phase
Entire growth cycle repeats every 4-5 years
Truth about Hair Growth
- shaving or cutting hair has no effect on hair growth
- no evidence that scalp massage increases hair growth
- minoxidil and finasteride only treatments proven to increase hair growth approved by FDA
- grey hair is exactly same as pigmented hair without the pigment
- natural curl not determined by race
- cross-sections of straight hair tend to be round
- cross-sections of curly hair tend to be oval
- cross-sections of hair can be any shape and it does not relate to amount of curl or shape of follicle
Hair Loss
- growth cycle continuous growth, fall, and replacement of individual hair strands
- average hair loss 35-40 hairs per day
- over 63 million US suffer abnormal hair loss (Alopecia)
Emotional Impact of Hair Loss
- perceptions of bald and balding men:
-- less physically attractive
-- less assertive
-- less successful
-- less personally likable
-- older (about 5 years)
- men with severe hair loss:
-- experience significantly more negative social and emotional effects
-- more preoccupied with baldness
-- make effort to conceal or compensate for hair loss
- very traumatic for women
Types of Abnormal Hair Loss
- Androgenic Alopecia (Androgenetic Alopecia)
-- result of genetics, age, and hormonal changes causing miniaturization of terminal hair, converting it to vellus hair
-- begin as early as teens and frequently seen by age of 40
-- by age 35, almost 40% show some degree of hair loss
-- in men, known as male pattern baldness (horseshoe fringe of hair)
-- in women, generalized thinning over entire crown area
-- affects about 40 million men and 20 million women in US
- Alopecia Areata:
-- sudden falling out of hair in round patches or baldness in spots
-- may occur in scalp and body
-- unpredictable skin disease affecting about 5 million people in US
-- autoimmune disease where person's immune system attack affected hair follicles and white blood cells stopping hair growth (anagen) phase
-- begins with one or more small, round, smooth bald patches on scalp and can progress to total scalp hair loss (alopecia totalis) or complete body hair loss (alopecia universalis)
-- most often begins in childhood
-- scalp usually shows no signs of inflammation
- Postpartum Alopecia:
-- temporary hair loss at the conclusion of a pregnancy
-- some women, pregnancy disrupt normal growth cycle of hair
-- sudden excessive shedding from 3-9 months after delivery
-- usually returns to normal within one year after baby
FYI: www.alopeciaareata.com www.lookgoodfeelbetter.org
Hair Loss Treatments
- minoxidil and finasteride are proven to stimulate hair growth and approved by FDA
- Minoxidil:
-- topical (applied to surface of body) medication applied to scalp twice a day
-- sold over-the-counter (OTC) as nonprescription drug
-- 2% regular and 5% extra strength
-- no known negative side effects
- Finasteride:
-- oral prescription medication for men only
-- more effective and convenient than minoxidil
-- possible side effects include weight gain and loss of sexual function
-- strong potential birth defects => women caution not to touch
- surgical options: Transplants or Hair Plugs:
-- most common permanent hair replacement technique
-- removing small sections of hair (follicle, papilla, and bulb) from back of head to bald area
-- only licensed surgeons and several surgeries for desired results
-- cost range from $8,000 to over $20,000
- hairstylist offer nonmedical options
-- wigs, toupees, hair weaving, and hair extensions
Disorders of Hair
Canities
- technical term for grey hair
- loss of natural melanin in pigment
1. Congenital Canities
- exists at or before birth
-- albinos, born with no pigment in hair, skin, and eyes
-- occasionally in people with normal hair
- patchy type of congenital canities may develop either slowly or rapidly depending on cause of condition
2. Acquired Canities
- develops with age and genetics
- also with worry, anxiety or prolonged illness
- Ringed Hair:
-- variety of canities, characterized by alternating bands of grey and pigmented hair throughout the length of hair strand
Hypertrichosis (Hirsuties):
- condition of abnormal growth of terminal hair in areas normally vellus hair is found
- ie. moustache or light beard on women
- treatments - wax hair removal, tweezing, chemical depilatories, shaving, mechanical epilators, and electrolysis
Trichoptilosis:
- technical term for split ends
- treatments include hair conditioning to soften and lubricate dry ends
- split ends may be removed by cutting
Trichorrhexis Nodosa (Knotted Hair):
- brittleness and formulation of nodular swellings along hair shaft
- hair breaks easily and broken fibres spread out like a brush along hair shaft
- treatments include softening hair with conditioners and moisturiers
Monilethrix
- technical term for beaded hair
- hair breaks easil between beads or nodes
- treatments include hair and scalp conditioning
Disorder of Scalp
- skin is in constant state of renewal
- outer layer of skin covering body constantly shed and replaced by new cells from below
- average person sheds about 9 pounds of "dead skin" each year
- skin cells of normal, healthy scalp fall of naturally as small, dry flakes, without being noticed
- dandruff easily mistaken for dry scalp
-- symptoms of both are flaky, itchy, irritated scalp
-- dry scalp is dry, not oily like dandruff
-- flakes from dry scalp are much smaller and less noticable
- result from contact dermatitis, sunburn, or extreme age, worse in cold, dry climates
- Dandruff (Pityriasis)
-- excessive production and accumulation of skin cells
-- accumulation of clumps of cells large enough to be visible on scalp, hair, and shoulders
-- result of fungus originally named pitrosporum (spores of the scalp) and recently reclassified as malassezia
-- Malassezia is a naturally occurring fungus present on all human skin but only develops the symptoms of dandruff when it grows out of control
-- stress, age, hormones, and poor hygiene cause fungus to multiply
-- older antidandruff treatments relied on sulfur and coal tar harsh to skin leaving hair unmanagable
-- modern antidandruff shampoos contain antifungal agents pyrithione zinc, selenium sulfide, or ketoconazole
--- controls dandruff by supressing growth of malassezia
-- antidandruff shampoos containing pyrithione zinc available in variety of formulas for all hair types and gentle everyday even on colour-treated hair
1. Pityriasis Capitis Simplex:
-- characterized by scalp irritation, large flakes, and itchy scalp
-- scales may attach to scalp in masses, scatter loosely in hair, or fall to shoulders
-- treatment: regular antidandruff shampoos, conditioners, and topical lotions
2. Pityriasis Steatoides:
-- more severe case of dandruff characterized by accumulation of greasy or waxy scalp scales, mixed with sebum sticking to scalp in crusts
-- Seborrheic Dermatitis: when accompanied by redness and inflammation
-- should be referred to phyician
Vegetable Parasitic Infections (Tinea)
- Tinea: medical term for ringworm
- itching, scales, and sometimes painful circular lesions
- several patches may be present at one time
- caused by vegetable parasites (fungi)
- contagious and easily transmitted from person to person
- infected skin scales or hairs that contain fungi are known to spread disease
- sources of transmission: bathtubs, swimming pools, unsanitary personal articles
- practising approved sanitization and disinfection procedures will help prevent spread of disease
- refer to physician for medical treatment
1. Tinea Capitis:
- ringworm of the scalp
- red papules, or spots, at opening of hair follicles
- patches spread and hair becomes brittle and lifeless
- hair often breaks off, leaving only a stump, or may be shed from enlarged open follicle
2. Tinea Favosa (Tinea Favus or Honeycomb Ringworm):
- dry, sulfur-yellow, cup-like crusts on scalp called scutula
- distinctive odour
- scars from favus are bald patches that may be pink white or shiny
Animal Parasitic Infections
- Scabies "itch": highly contagious skin disease caused by itch mite burrowing under skin
- Vesicles (blisters) and pustules (inflamed pimples with pus) usually form on scalp from irritation
- excessive itching results in scratching infected areas and makes conditions worse
- practicing approved sanitization and disinfection procedures help prevent spread
- should refer to physician for medical treatment
- Pediculosis Capitis:
-- infestation of hair and scalp with head lice
-- feeds on scalp, itching occurs and scratching that usually results can cause infection
-- transmitted from one person to another by contact with infested hats, combs, brushes, and other personal articles
-- distinguish them from dandruff with magnifying glass
-- practising sanitization and disinfection procedures prevent spread
-- several nonprescription medications are available
-- should be referred to physician or pharmacist
Staphylococci Infections
- practising sanitization and disinfection procedures help prevent spread
- should refer to physician for medical treatment
1. Furuncle (Boil):
- acute, localized bacterial infection of hair follicle that produces constant pain
- limited to specific area and produces pustule perforated by a hair
2. Carbuncle:
- inflammation of the subcutaneous tissue caused by staphylococci
- similar to furuncle but larger
Trichology
- scientific study of hair, its diseases, and care
- hair = trichos
- study of = ology
Structure of Hair
- Integument: outer covering encloses entire body
-- includes hair, skin, nails
-- fastest growing organ of human body
- full-grown human hair:
-- Hair Root: located below surface of scalp
-- Hair Shaft: projects above skin
Structures of Hair Root
- Follicle:
-- tube-like depression or pocket in skin or scalp containing hair root
-- extends from the epidermis (outer layer of skin) into the dermis (inner skin layer) surrounding dermal papilla
-- not uncommon for more than one hair grow from single follicle
- Bulb:
-- lowest area or part of a hair strand
-- thickened, club-shaped structure that forms lower part of hair root
-- lower part of hair bulb fits over and covers dermal papilla
- Dermal Papilla:
-- plural - papillae
-- small cone-shaped elevation located at base of hair follicle that fits into the hair bulb
-- contains blood and nerve supply providing nutrients needed for hair growth
- Arrector Pili Muscle:
-- minute, involuntary muscle fibre in skin inserted in the base of hair follicle
-- fear or cold contract making hair stand up straight "goose bumps"
- Sebaceous Glands (Oil Glands):
-- oil glands of skin, connected to hair follicles
-- secrete an oily substance called Sebum, lubricating hair and skin
Structures of Hair Shaft
- Cuticle:
-- outermost layer of hair
-- single overlapping layer of transparent, scale-like cells like shingles on a roof
-- healthy, compact cuticle layer is hair's primary defence against damage
-- swelling hair raises cuticle layer and opens space between scales, allowing liquids to penetrate
-- oxidation haircolours, permanent waving solutions, and chemical hair relaxers must have an alkaline pH in order to penetrate cuticle layer and reach target within cortex
- Cortex:
-- middle layer of hair
-- fibrous protein core formed by elongated cells containing melanin pigment
-- about 90% of total weight
-- elasticity of hair and natural colour are results of the unique protein structures located within cortex
-- changes involved in oxidation haircolouring, wet setting, thermal styling, permanent waving, and chemical hair relaxing takes place here
- Medulla (Pith of the hair):
-- innermost layer
-- composed of round cells
-- common for very fine and naturally blonde hair to entirely lack medulla
-- only think, coarse hair contains medulla (i.e. male beard hair)
-- "empty" air space, not involve in salon services
Chemical Composition of Hair
- hair is composed of protein that grows from cells originating within hair follicle (hair shaft begins)
- begin journey upward through hair follicle
- mature in process called Keratinization
- as these newly formed cells mature, they fill up with fibrous protein called Keratin, then move upward, lose their nucleus, and die
- when hair shaft emerges from scalp, cells of hair are completely keratinized and no longer living
- hair shaft emerges from scalp is nonliving fiber composed of keratinized protein
- hair is approximately 91% protein, made up of long chains of amino acids, made up of elements
- elements of human hair are carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur
-- also major elements found in skin, nails
-- referred to as COHNS elements
Element - Percentage in Normal Hair
Carbon - 51%
Oxygen - 21%
Hydrogen - 6%
Nitrogen - 17%
Sulfur - 5%
Amino Acids
- units of structure in protein
- linked together end to end like pop beads
- Peptide Bond: chemical bond that joins amino acids to each other
- Polypeptide Chain:
-- long change of amino acids linked by peptide bonds
-- intertwine around each other in a spiral shape called Helix
Side Bonds of Cortex
- cortex is made up of millions of polypeptide chains cross-linked together like a ladder by 3 different types of side bonds: hydrogen bonds, salt bonds, and disulfide bonds
- holds hair fibres in place and account for incredible strength and elasticity of human hair
- essential to wet sets, thermal styling, permanent waving, and chemical hair relaxing
- Hydrogen Bond:
-- physical side bond
-- easily broken by water or heat
-- very weak individually but so many of them
-- account for 1/3 of hair's overall strength
- Salt Bond:
-- physical side bond
-- broken by changes in pH (strong alkaline or acidic solutions)
-- account for 1/3 of hair's overall strength
- Disulfide Bond:
-- chemical side bond
-- joins sulphur atoms of two neighbouring Cysteine amino acids to create Cystine
-- far fewer disulfide bonds
-- account for 1/3 of hair's overall strength
-- permanent waves and chemical hair relaxers change shape of hair by chemically changing hair's disulfide bonds
-- thio permanent waves break disulfide bonds, reforming them by thio neutrilizers
-- hydroxide chemical hair relaxers break disulfide bonds which are converted to lanthionine bonds
--- disulfide bonds broken permanently and never be reformed
Hair Pigment
- natural hair colour result of pigment located within cortex
- Melanin: tiny grains of pigment in cortex that give natural colour of hair
-- Eumelanin: brown & black colour to hair
-- Pheomelanin: red & ginger to yellow/blonde tones
Bonds of Hair
bond: hydrogen
type: side bond
strength: weak physical
broken by: water or heat
reformed by: drying or cooling
bond: salt
type: side bond
strength: weak physical
broken by: changes in pH
reformed by: normalizing pH
bond: disulfide
type: side bond
strength: strong chemical
broken by: 1. thio perms & thio relaxers 2. hydroxide relaxers
reformed by: 1. oxidation with neutralizer 2. converted to lanthionine bonds
bond: peptide
type: end bond
strength: strong chemical
broken by: chemical depilatories
reformed by: not reformed; hair dissolves
Wave Pattern
- amount of movement in hair strand
- straight, wavy, curly, or extremely curly
- genetics and racial background
- may also vary from strand to strand on same person's head
- most popular theory, shape of hair's cross-section determines amount of curl
-- round cross-section = straight
-- oval cross-section = wavy
-- flat cross-section = curly
- modern microscopes shows cross-section of hair can be any shape including triangular and shape of cross-section does not always relate to amount of curl
- now believed natural curl is result of one side of hair strand growing faster than other side
- hair has different diameters from fine to coarse, regardless of wave pattern
- all hair comes in different textures and densities
Straight Hair
- any hair type without regard to texture or density
- find coarse, dense or thin
- fairly regular and uniform diameter along a single strand
- cross-section of hair are usually round
Wavy Hair
- cross-section usually oval
- fairly regular and uniform diameter along a single strand
Extremely Curly Hair
- grows in long twisted spirals
- cross-sections highly oval and vary in shape and thickness along their length
- quite irregular varying diameters along single strand
- coiled hair usually fine texture
-- usually has low elasticity, breaks easily, tendency to knot, especially on ends
-- gentle scalp manipulations, conditioning shampoo, and detangling rinse help minimize tangles
Hair Analysis
- successful salon services must begin with thorough analysis of client's hair type and present condition
- determines beforehand results reasonably expected from service
- observation using senses of sight, touch, hearing, and smell
- main factors to consider: texture, porosity, elasticity, density
- other factors growth pattern, dryness and oiliness
Hair Texture
- thickness or diameter of individual hair strand
- coarse, medium, fine
- texture can also vary from strand to strand on same person's head
-- hair from nape (back of neck), crown, temples, and front hairline of same person may all have different textures
- coarse hair textures has largest diameter
-- stronger than fine hair
-- requires more processing and be more resistant to it
-- usually more difficult for hair lighteners, haircolours, permanent waving solutions, chemical hair relaxers to penetrate coarse hair
- medium hair texture most common
-- standard to which hair is compared
-- consider normal and does not pose any special problems or concerns
- fine hair has smallest diameter
-- more fragile
-- easier to process
-- more susceptible to damage from chemical services
- hair texture determined by feeling a single dry strand between fingers
-- take individual strand from 4 different areas of head (front hairline, temple, crown, nape)
-- hold strand securely with one hand while feeling it with thumb and forefinger of other hand
Hair density
- measures number of individual hair strands on one square inch (2.5cm) of scalp
- indicates how many hairs on a person's head
- low, medium, high (or thin, medium, thick-dense)
- different individuals with same hair texture can have different densities
- average hair density about 2,200 hairs per square inch
- average head of hair contains 100,000 individual hair strands
- number of hairs on head generally varies with colour of hair
- blondes usually have highest density
- redheads tend to have lowest density
Number of Hairs on Head by Hair Colour
Hair Colour - Number of Hairs on Head
Blonde - 140,000
Brown - 110,000
Black - 108,000
Red - 80,000
Hair Porosity
- ability of hair to absorb moisture
- degree of porosity is directly related to condition of cuticle layer
- healthy hair with compact cuticle layer is naturally resistant to penetration
- porous hair has raised cuticle layer easily absorbs water
- low porosity hair => resistant hair
-- chemical services performed on hair with low porosity require more alkaline solution
-- alkaline solution raise cuticle and permit uniform saturation and processing
- average porosity hair => normal hair
-- chemical services usually process as expected, according to texture
- high porosity hair => overly porous result of previous overprocessing
-- damaged, dry, fragile, brittle
-- chemical services require less alkaline solutions with lower pH preventing additional overprocessing
- texture of hair not indication of porosity
- check porosity on dry hair by taking strand of several hairs from 4 different areas of head (front hairline, temple, crown, nape)
-- hold strand securely with one hand while sliding thumb and forefinger of other hand from end to scalp
-- if hair feels smooth and cuticle is compact, dense, and hard => resistant
-- if slight roughness, considered porous
-- if hair very rough, dry, or breaks => overly porous
Hair Elasticity
- ability of hair to stretch and return to original length without breaking
- indication of strength of side bonds that hold hair's individual fibres in place
- wet hair with normal elasticity will stretch up to 50 percent of original length and return to same length without breaking
- dry hair stretches about 1/5 of its length
- normal elasticity hair holds curl from wet set and permanent waves without excessive relaxing
- low elasticity hair is brittle and breaks easily
-- may not be able to hold curl from wet setting, thermal styling, or permanent waving
-- result of weak side bonds from previous overprocessing
-- chemical services require milder solution with lower pH
--- minimize damage and helps prevent additional overprocessing
- check elasticity on wet hair, taking strands from 4 different areas of head (front hairline, temple, crown, nape)
-- hold single strand of wet hair securely and try to pull it apart
-- if hair stretches and returns to original length without breaking => normal elasticity
-- if hair breaks easily or fails to return to original length => low elasticity
Growth Patterns
- hair follicles NOT usually grow perpendicular to scalp
- Hair Stream:
-- hair flowing in same direction
-- follicles sloping in same direction
-- 2 streams flowing in opposite directions form natural part in hair
- Whorl:
-- hair that forms in circular pattern (crown)
- Cowlick:
-- turf of hair strands straight up
-- more noticeable at front hairline, but may be anywhere
Dry Hair & Scalp
- caused by inactive sebaceous glands
- aggravated by dry winter or desert climate
- lack of natural oils (sebum) leads to flaky scalp and hair appearing dull, dry, and lifeless
- treat with products containing moisturizers and emollients
- avoid frequent shampoo and strong soaps, detergents, or products with high alcohol content
-- may aggravate condition
- should not be confused with overly porous hair damaged by thermal styling, environmental forces, or chemical services
Oily Hair & Scalp
- caused by overactive sebaceous glands characterized by greasy buildup on scalp and oily coating on hair
- treat with clarifying or normalizing shampoos
- control with well-balanced diet, exercise, regular shampooing, good personal hygiene
Hair Growth
Vellus (Lanugo)
- short, fine, and downy hair
- not pigmented and almost never have medulla
- found on infants and present until puberty
- on adults found in places normally considered hairless
-- forehead, eyelids, bald scalp, nearly all other areas (except palms and soles)
- women retain 55% more vellus
- helps in efficient evaporation of perspiration
- about 1mm long
Terminal Hair
- long, soft hair found on scalp, legs, arms, and bodies of males and females
- coarser than vellus hair and pigmented (except grey)
- usually has medulla
- hormonal changes during puberty cause vellus hair to be replaced with terminal hair
- all follicles capable of producing vellus or terminal hair
-- depends on genetics, age, hormonal changes
Growth Cycles of Hair
1. Anagen: Growth Phase:
- new hair is produced
- hair actively manufactures new keratinized cells in hair follicle
- in this phase, hair cells produced faster than any other normal cell in human body
- average growth of healthy scalp hair - 1/2 inch (1.25cm) per month
- rate of growth varies on different parts of body, sexes, age
- scalp hair grows faster on women
- scalp hair grows rapidly between 15-30 but slows down sharply after age 50
- about 90% of scalp hair in anagen phase at any time
- each specific hair, anagen phase lasts 3-5 years, in some cases as long as 10 years
2. Catagen: Transition Phase:
- brief transition period between growth and resting phases of hair follicle
- follicle canal shrinks and detaches from dermal papilla
- hair bulb disappears
- shrunken root end forms rounded club
- less than 1% scalp hair in catagen phase at any time
- lasts 1-2 weeks
3. Telogen: Resting Phase
- lasts until fully grown hair is shed
-- either during telogen phase or remains until next anagen phase, when new hair pushes old out
- about 10% of scalp hair in telogen phase at any time
- lasts 3-6 months
- when telogen phase ends, returns to anagen phase
Entire growth cycle repeats every 4-5 years
Truth about Hair Growth
- shaving or cutting hair has no effect on hair growth
- no evidence that scalp massage increases hair growth
- minoxidil and finasteride only treatments proven to increase hair growth approved by FDA
- grey hair is exactly same as pigmented hair without the pigment
- natural curl not determined by race
- cross-sections of straight hair tend to be round
- cross-sections of curly hair tend to be oval
- cross-sections of hair can be any shape and it does not relate to amount of curl or shape of follicle
Hair Loss
- growth cycle continuous growth, fall, and replacement of individual hair strands
- average hair loss 35-40 hairs per day
- over 63 million US suffer abnormal hair loss (Alopecia)
Emotional Impact of Hair Loss
- perceptions of bald and balding men:
-- less physically attractive
-- less assertive
-- less successful
-- less personally likable
-- older (about 5 years)
- men with severe hair loss:
-- experience significantly more negative social and emotional effects
-- more preoccupied with baldness
-- make effort to conceal or compensate for hair loss
- very traumatic for women
Types of Abnormal Hair Loss
- Androgenic Alopecia (Androgenetic Alopecia)
-- result of genetics, age, and hormonal changes causing miniaturization of terminal hair, converting it to vellus hair
-- begin as early as teens and frequently seen by age of 40
-- by age 35, almost 40% show some degree of hair loss
-- in men, known as male pattern baldness (horseshoe fringe of hair)
-- in women, generalized thinning over entire crown area
-- affects about 40 million men and 20 million women in US
- Alopecia Areata:
-- sudden falling out of hair in round patches or baldness in spots
-- may occur in scalp and body
-- unpredictable skin disease affecting about 5 million people in US
-- autoimmune disease where person's immune system attack affected hair follicles and white blood cells stopping hair growth (anagen) phase
-- begins with one or more small, round, smooth bald patches on scalp and can progress to total scalp hair loss (alopecia totalis) or complete body hair loss (alopecia universalis)
-- most often begins in childhood
-- scalp usually shows no signs of inflammation
- Postpartum Alopecia:
-- temporary hair loss at the conclusion of a pregnancy
-- some women, pregnancy disrupt normal growth cycle of hair
-- sudden excessive shedding from 3-9 months after delivery
-- usually returns to normal within one year after baby
FYI: www.alopeciaareata.com www.lookgoodfeelbetter.org
Hair Loss Treatments
- minoxidil and finasteride are proven to stimulate hair growth and approved by FDA
- Minoxidil:
-- topical (applied to surface of body) medication applied to scalp twice a day
-- sold over-the-counter (OTC) as nonprescription drug
-- 2% regular and 5% extra strength
-- no known negative side effects
- Finasteride:
-- oral prescription medication for men only
-- more effective and convenient than minoxidil
-- possible side effects include weight gain and loss of sexual function
-- strong potential birth defects => women caution not to touch
- surgical options: Transplants or Hair Plugs:
-- most common permanent hair replacement technique
-- removing small sections of hair (follicle, papilla, and bulb) from back of head to bald area
-- only licensed surgeons and several surgeries for desired results
-- cost range from $8,000 to over $20,000
- hairstylist offer nonmedical options
-- wigs, toupees, hair weaving, and hair extensions
Disorders of Hair
Canities
- technical term for grey hair
- loss of natural melanin in pigment
1. Congenital Canities
- exists at or before birth
-- albinos, born with no pigment in hair, skin, and eyes
-- occasionally in people with normal hair
- patchy type of congenital canities may develop either slowly or rapidly depending on cause of condition
2. Acquired Canities
- develops with age and genetics
- also with worry, anxiety or prolonged illness
- Ringed Hair:
-- variety of canities, characterized by alternating bands of grey and pigmented hair throughout the length of hair strand
Hypertrichosis (Hirsuties):
- condition of abnormal growth of terminal hair in areas normally vellus hair is found
- ie. moustache or light beard on women
- treatments - wax hair removal, tweezing, chemical depilatories, shaving, mechanical epilators, and electrolysis
Trichoptilosis:
- technical term for split ends
- treatments include hair conditioning to soften and lubricate dry ends
- split ends may be removed by cutting
Trichorrhexis Nodosa (Knotted Hair):
- brittleness and formulation of nodular swellings along hair shaft
- hair breaks easily and broken fibres spread out like a brush along hair shaft
- treatments include softening hair with conditioners and moisturiers
Monilethrix
- technical term for beaded hair
- hair breaks easil between beads or nodes
- treatments include hair and scalp conditioning
Disorder of Scalp
- skin is in constant state of renewal
- outer layer of skin covering body constantly shed and replaced by new cells from below
- average person sheds about 9 pounds of "dead skin" each year
- skin cells of normal, healthy scalp fall of naturally as small, dry flakes, without being noticed
- dandruff easily mistaken for dry scalp
-- symptoms of both are flaky, itchy, irritated scalp
-- dry scalp is dry, not oily like dandruff
-- flakes from dry scalp are much smaller and less noticable
- result from contact dermatitis, sunburn, or extreme age, worse in cold, dry climates
- Dandruff (Pityriasis)
-- excessive production and accumulation of skin cells
-- accumulation of clumps of cells large enough to be visible on scalp, hair, and shoulders
-- result of fungus originally named pitrosporum (spores of the scalp) and recently reclassified as malassezia
-- Malassezia is a naturally occurring fungus present on all human skin but only develops the symptoms of dandruff when it grows out of control
-- stress, age, hormones, and poor hygiene cause fungus to multiply
-- older antidandruff treatments relied on sulfur and coal tar harsh to skin leaving hair unmanagable
-- modern antidandruff shampoos contain antifungal agents pyrithione zinc, selenium sulfide, or ketoconazole
--- controls dandruff by supressing growth of malassezia
-- antidandruff shampoos containing pyrithione zinc available in variety of formulas for all hair types and gentle everyday even on colour-treated hair
1. Pityriasis Capitis Simplex:
-- characterized by scalp irritation, large flakes, and itchy scalp
-- scales may attach to scalp in masses, scatter loosely in hair, or fall to shoulders
-- treatment: regular antidandruff shampoos, conditioners, and topical lotions
2. Pityriasis Steatoides:
-- more severe case of dandruff characterized by accumulation of greasy or waxy scalp scales, mixed with sebum sticking to scalp in crusts
-- Seborrheic Dermatitis: when accompanied by redness and inflammation
-- should be referred to phyician
Vegetable Parasitic Infections (Tinea)
- Tinea: medical term for ringworm
- itching, scales, and sometimes painful circular lesions
- several patches may be present at one time
- caused by vegetable parasites (fungi)
- contagious and easily transmitted from person to person
- infected skin scales or hairs that contain fungi are known to spread disease
- sources of transmission: bathtubs, swimming pools, unsanitary personal articles
- practising approved sanitization and disinfection procedures will help prevent spread of disease
- refer to physician for medical treatment
1. Tinea Capitis:
- ringworm of the scalp
- red papules, or spots, at opening of hair follicles
- patches spread and hair becomes brittle and lifeless
- hair often breaks off, leaving only a stump, or may be shed from enlarged open follicle
2. Tinea Favosa (Tinea Favus or Honeycomb Ringworm):
- dry, sulfur-yellow, cup-like crusts on scalp called scutula
- distinctive odour
- scars from favus are bald patches that may be pink white or shiny
Animal Parasitic Infections
- Scabies "itch": highly contagious skin disease caused by itch mite burrowing under skin
- Vesicles (blisters) and pustules (inflamed pimples with pus) usually form on scalp from irritation
- excessive itching results in scratching infected areas and makes conditions worse
- practicing approved sanitization and disinfection procedures help prevent spread
- should refer to physician for medical treatment
- Pediculosis Capitis:
-- infestation of hair and scalp with head lice
-- feeds on scalp, itching occurs and scratching that usually results can cause infection
-- transmitted from one person to another by contact with infested hats, combs, brushes, and other personal articles
-- distinguish them from dandruff with magnifying glass
-- practising sanitization and disinfection procedures prevent spread
-- several nonprescription medications are available
-- should be referred to physician or pharmacist
Staphylococci Infections
- practising sanitization and disinfection procedures help prevent spread
- should refer to physician for medical treatment
1. Furuncle (Boil):
- acute, localized bacterial infection of hair follicle that produces constant pain
- limited to specific area and produces pustule perforated by a hair
2. Carbuncle:
- inflammation of the subcutaneous tissue caused by staphylococci
- similar to furuncle but larger
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)