Chemical Texture Services
- permanently alters natural wave pattern of hair through chemical change.
Texture Services
- curl & add volume to straight hair
- straighten overly curly hair
- soften coarse, straight hair
- permanent waving
- soft curl permanents (curl re-forming)
- chemical hair relaxing
The Structure of Hair
Cuticle
- tough other layer of hair
- protects hair from damage
- Resistant hair: strong compact cuticle resists penetration => difficult to service
- chemicals must penetrate through cuticle to be effective
Chemical hair texturizers
- changes hair's natural curl pattern
- alkaline solutions soften and swell hair, raising cuticle to allow solution to target cortex
- highly alkaline (high pH) texturizer for coarse resistant hair
- less alkaline (lower pH) solution for more porous, damaged, or chemically treated hair
Cortex
- middle layer of hair beneath cuticle
- polypeptide chains of cortex are connected by end bonds and cross-linked by side bonds (form the fibres and structure of hair)
Side and End Bonds
- hold hair in natural wave pattern
- responsible for incredible strength and elasticity of hair
- breaking side bonds of the cortex changes natural wave patter of hair
Peptide Bonds (End Bonds)
- chemical bonds that join amino acids
- Polypeptide chain (i.e. Proteins): peptide bonds link together to form long chains of amino acids
PEPTIDE BONDS SHOULD NOT BE BROKEN DURING ANY SALON SERVICE
- breaks and weakens hair
Side Bonds (Cross Bonds)
- 3 bonds: disulfide, salt, hydrogen
- wet setting, thermal styling, permanent waving, soft curl permanents and chemical hair relaxing
Disulfide Bonds
- permanent waving, soft curl permanents (curl re-forming) and chemical hair relaxing
- strong chemical side bonds not broken by heat or water
- formed between two cysteine amino acids on polypeptide chains
- joins a cysteine sulfur atom on one polypeptide chain with a 2nd cysteine sulfer atom on another polypeptide chain to form cystine
-- Cystine: oxidized form of cysteine
- weaker than peptide bonds
- strongest of side bonds
- fewer disulfide bonds than hydrogen or salt bonds
- account for 1/3 overall strength of hair
Salt Bonds
- permanent waving, and re-form (when pH returns to normal)
- relatively weak physical side bonds, attraction between opposite electrical charges
- easily broken by changes in pH
- account for 1/3 overall strength of hair
Hydrogen Bonds
- wet setting, or thermal styling (heat) and re-form (as hair dries or cools)
- relatively weak physical side bonds, attraction between opposite electrical charges
- easily broken by water
- account for 1/3 overall strength of hair
Wet Set
- physical change from breaking and re-forming hydrogen bonds
- wetting hair breaks hydrogen bonds and permits stretching and rolling
- drying hair removes water and re-forms hydrogen bonds to new shape
- return to original shape when wet or exposed to high humidity
Thermal Styling
- hair dryers, curling irons, pressing combs
- physical change that breaks down hydrogen bonds
- return to original shape when wet
Client Consultation
- first determine exactly what client expects and what is possible
- COMMUNICATE!
- always greet your client by name and introduce yourself
- ask open-ended questions
- find out why client wants texture service and expectations
- look at pictures with client
- ask about past texture services (What they liked and disliked)
- how do client currently style hair and discuss changes resulting from texture service
- determine finished hairstyle considering haircut and degree of texture or relaxing needed
- evaluate condition, texture, and wave pattern of hair to make sure desired style is possible
- fill out Permanent Wave Record to document condition of hair and desired outcome
Client Records
- include complete evaluation of length, texture, colour, and condition of hair prior to service, and results expected
- determine previous problems or adverse reactions clients had in past
- must be reevaluated prior to each service due to changes in client history or formulation of product
- include type of perm, type & size of perm tools (rods), base direction, base control, wrapping technique, wrapping pattern, processing time, and results acheived
Client Release Form
- some schools / salons require signing this before receiving chemical service
- does not release school / salon from all responsibilities
- indicate that client knew of possible damage to hair or unexpected adverse reaction
Scalp Analysis
- always be performed prior to chemical service
- look for cuts, scratches, or open sores
- do not proceed with service if there are any skin abrasions or signs of scalp disease
- refer client to a physician as necessary
Hair Analysis
- hair is fastest growing appendage on human body
- diet, exercise, medications, and stress all affect hair growth
- quality of permanent wave is directly related to quality of hair
- determines how hair will react to service and avoid most problems
- consider condition, texture, and wave pattern of hair when selecting type of relaxer, perm, type & size of perm tool and the wrapping method
- factors: texture, density, porosity, elasticity, growth direction
Hair Texture
- diameter of a single strand of hair
- differs from strand to strand
- feel a single dry strand between fingers - Coarse Hair:
-- require more processing than medium or fine
-- more resistant
-- more difficult for permanent waving solution to penetrate
- Medium Hair:
-- most common hair texture
-- consider normal
-- no special problems nor concerns
- Fine Hair:
-- easier and faster to process
-- more susceptible to damage from perm services
Hair Density
- measures number of strands of hair on head, indicating think or thin
- same hair texture can have different densities
Hair Porosity
- ability of hair to absorb moisture, directly relating to condition of cuticle layer
- Resistant Hair:
-- tight, compact cuticle layer that resists penetration
-- chemical services performed require more alkaline solution
-- high pH raises cuticle and permits uniform saturation & processing
-- requires slow and thorough application of perm solution to ensure complete saturation
- Hair with Normal Porosity:
-- neither resistant nor overly porous
-- texture services performed will process as expected
- Overly Porous Hair:
-- raised cuticle layer that easily absorbs solution
-- chemical services performed require less alkaline solution
-- lower pH minimizes swelling prevents excessive damage to hair
Hair Elasticity
- indication of strength of side bonds that hold individual fibres of hair in place
- determines ability to hold curl
- Normal Elasticity:
-- wet hair can stretch up to 50% of original length and return without breaking
-- holds curl from wet sets and permanent waves
- Low Elasticity:
-- wet hair does not return to original length when stretched
-- may not hold curl from wet sets and permanent waves
Direction of Hair Growth
- individual growth direction of hair causes hair streams, whorls, and cowlicks
- influences finished hairstyle
- must be considered when selecting base direction and wrapping patter for each permanent wave
Permanent Waving
Two-step process
1. Physical change caused by wrapping hair on perm rods
2. Chemical change by permanent waving solution and neutralizer
Perm Wrap
- in permanent waving, size, shape, and type of curl are determined by size, shape, and type of tool used in wrapping hair
- permanent waving solution softens hair, conforming to shape it was wrapped
- perm wrap is a wet set on perm rods instead of rollers
- wet set breaks hydrogen bonds, permanent wave breaks disulfide bonds
- size of perm tool determines size of curl
- wrapping hair on small tools increases tension => increases amount of curl
- tension produces curl, but too much tension can mark or break hair
- keep hair wet while wrapping
- wrap with uniform, even tension
Sectioning
- begin with sectioning hair into panels
- Base Sections: further subdivision of each panel
-- one tool on each base section
-- size of base section is the length & width of tool used
Base Control
- position of the tool in relation to base section
- determined by angle the hair is wrapped
- On-base Placement:
-- hair is wrapped 45 degrees beyond perpendicular to base section
-- tool is placed on its base section
-- result in greater volume but gone when hair grows out
-- caution: additional stress and tension on hair => may damage or break hair
- Half-off-base placement:
-- wrapping hair at 90 degrees (perpendicular) to base section
-- tool is positioned half of its base section
-- minimizes stress and tension of hair
- Off-base placement:
-- wrapping hair at 45 degrees below perpendicular to base section
-- tool is placed completely off its base section
-- least amount of volume and results in a curl pattern beginning farthest away from scalp
Base Direction
- angle at which tool is positioned on head
- horizontally
- vertically
- diagonally
- refers to directional pattern hair is wrapped
- directional wraps can be backward, forward, or to one side
- wrapping with natural direction of hair growth causes least amount of stress to hair
- wrapping against natural growth pattern causes excess stress, damaging or breaking hair
Wrapping Techniques
- two basic methods
- Croquignole Perms:
-- hair strands are wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping layers
-- hair is wrapped perpendicular to the length of tool, each new layer is wrapped toward scalp on top of previous layer
-- increases effective size of tool when each overlap
-- produces tighter curl at the ends and larger curls at the scalp
-- longer, thicker hair increase this effect
- Spiral Perms:
-- hair is wound from ends to scalp or from scalp to ends (no difference)
-- hair is wrapped at angle other than perpendicular to length of tool, spiralling along the length of tool
-- layers may partially overlap preceding layers, keeping angle constant, the overlap will be uniform
-- causes effective size of tool to remain the same along entire length of strand
-- longer, thicker hair results in uniform curls
Perm Tools
- size of tool determines size of curl
- shape and type of tool and wrapping method determines shape and type of curl
Type of Rods
- Concave Rods:
-- most common type of perm rod
-- used with croquignole wrapping technique
-- smaller circumference in center and increases to larger circumference at ends
-- produce tighter curls in center and looser, larger curls on either side of the strand
- Straight Rods:
-- used with croquignole wrapping
-- equal circumference along the entire length of tool
-- produce a uniform curl along the entire width of strand
-- long straight rods can be used with a spiral wrapping technique, the length accommodate hair length
-- short rods fit closer to the rounded curvatures of the head and for small awkward sections
Other Perm Tools
- Soft Bender Rods:
-- 12 inches long with uniform diameter
-- stiff wire inside permitting bending
-- used with either croquignole or spiral wrapping technique
- Circle Tool or Loop Rod:
-- 12 inches long with uniform diameter
-- ideal for spiral wrapping extremely long hair
-- rod is secured by fastening ends together to form circle
End Papers (End Wraps)
- absorbent papers used to control ends of hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm tools
- should extend beyond ends of hair to keep them smooth, straight and prevent "fishhooks"
- Double Flat Wrap:
-- uses 2 end papers
-- one placed under and one over strand of hair being wrapped
-- papers extend past the hair ends
-- provide most control over hair ends and keep them evenly distributed over entire length of the tool
- Single Flat Wrap:
-- uses 1 end paper
-- placed over top of the strand
- Bookend Wrap:
-- uses 1 end paper folded in half
-- prefolded end papers available
-- eliminates excess paper and used with short rods or very short lengths of hair
--avoid bunching ends together toward center of rod
The Chemistry of Permanent Waving
- alkaline permanent waving solution softens and swells hair, raises cuticle & permits solution to penetrate cortex
- degree of alkalinity (pH) is a 2nd factor in overall strength of permanent waving solution
- alkalinity (pH) of the perm solution should correspond to the resistance, strength, and porosity of the cuticle layer
Reduction:
- a chemical reaction that breaks disulfide bonds using waving solution
- involves addition of hydrogen or removal of oxygen
- reduction reaction in permanent waving is due to addition of hydrogen
1. disulfide bond joins a sulfur atom on one polypeptide chain with a 2nd sulfur atom on another polypeptide chain
2. permanent waving solution breaks a disulfide bond by adding a hydrogen atom to each of the sulfur atoms in the disulfide bond
3. The sulfur attach to hydrogen and breaks the attachment to each other
4. The disulfide bond is broken and the polypeptide chains are able to slip into their new curled shape
Thioglycolic Acid:
- reducing agents used in permanent waving solutions are thiol compounds
- colourless liquid with strong unpleasant odour
- provides hydrogen that causes reduction reaction in permanent waving solutions
- strength of permanent waving solution is determined by the concentration of thio (greater number of hydrogen atoms)
- more hydrogen atoms breaks more disulfide bonds
- acid do not swell hair or penetrate into cortex => must add alkalizing agent
- Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG):
-- addition of ammonia to thioglycolic acid
-- main active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents
Types of Permanent Waves
- Alkaline Waves (Cold Waves):
-- first developed in 1941 used ATG
-- process at room temperature
-- have pH between 9.0 and 9.6
- True Acid Waves:
-- first introduced in 1970s
-- pH between 4.5 and 7.0
-- require heat to speed processing
-- Glyceryl Monothioglycolate (GMTG): main active ingredient, an acid with low pH
-- cause less damage
-- process more slowly
-- may require added heat of a hair dryer
-- do not usually produce a firm a curl as alkaline waves
-- may cause allergic sensitivity in both hairstylist and clients
AVERAGE pH of HAIR is 5.0
- even though pH of 7.0 is neutral, pH of 5.0 is neutral for hair
- every step in pH scale represents a TENFOLD change in pH
- a pH of 7.0 is 100 times more alkaline than the pH of 5.0 hair
- even pure water with pH of 7.0 can damage hair causing it to swell
Acid-Balanced Waves (Modern Acid Waves)
- permit processing at room temperature and produce firmer curl, the pH of acid waves increased between 7.8 and 8.2
- GMTG is primary reducing agent but may also include ATG
Acid Waves Components:
1. Permanent waving solution
2. Activator (contains GMTG), added to permanent waving solution immediately before use
3. Neutralizer
Exothermic Waves
- create exothermic chemical reaction that heats up solution and speeds processing
-- absorbs heat from surroundings
- activated by outside heat source, conventional hood-type hair dryer
- not process properly at room temperature
- most true acid waves are endothermic and require added heat
1. Permanent waving solution (containing thio)
2. Activator (contains oxidizing agent i.e. hydrogen peroxide)
- added to permanent waving solution immediately before use
- causes rapid release of heat and increase in temperature of solution
- increased temperature increases rate of chemical reaction and shortens processing time
3. Neutralizer
CAUTION: Accidentally mixing the contents of the activator tube with the neutralizer instead of the permanent waving solution will cause a violent chemical reaction that can cause injury especially to the eyes
Ammonia-Free Waves
- use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia
- very little odour
- Examples of Alkanolamines used in permanent waving solutions as substitute for ammonia
-- Aminomethylpropanol (AMP)
-- Monoethanolamine (MEA)
- still every bit as alkaline and just as damaging
Thio-Free Waves
- use an ingredient other than ATG as primary reducing agent
- common thio-free waves rely on cysteamine or mercaptamine
- still are thio compounds
- marketed as damage-free
-- at a high concentration, reducing agents in thio-free waves can be just as damaging as thio
Low-pH Waves
- use of sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites as alternative to ATG
- work at low pH but not very popular
- very weak and do not provide a firm curl, especially on strong or resistant hair
- usually marketed s body waves or alternative waves
CAUTION: The ingredients, stength, and pH of permanent wave solutions from different manufacturers may vary considerably, even within the same category. Always check the manufacturer's instructions and MSDS for accurate, detailed information.
Selecting Right Type of Perm
- after thorough consultation, determine which type of permanent is best suited to client's hair type, condition, and desired results
Permanent Wave Processing
- strength of any permanent wave is based on concentration of its reducing agent
- amount of processing is determined by strength of permanent waving solution, not necessary how long the perm process
-- need enough hydrogen atoms to breakdown disulfide bonds
- most of the processing takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair, within first 5 to 10 minutes
- additional processing time allows the polypeptide chains to shift into their new configuration
Overprocessed Hair
- If hair overprocessed, it probably happened within the first 5 to 10 minutes of service and a weaker permanent waving solution should have been used
- if hair not sufficiently processed after 10 minutes, may require reapplication of solution
-- resistant hair requires stronger solution and more thorough saturation
- thorough saturation with stronger solution will break more disulfide bonds and process hair more
- processing hair more does not translate into more curl
- properly processed permanent wave should break and rebuild approximately 50% of hair's disulfide bonds
- too many disulfide bonds broken: hair will be too weak to hold a firm curl or be totally straight
- hair at scalp is usually stronger, overprocessed hair will be curlier at scalp and straighter at ends
- processing overprocessed hair will make it straighter
Underprocessed Hair
- too few disulfide bonds broken: hair not sufficiently softened to take hold of desired curl
- very weak curl or be straight
- hair at scalp is usually stronger, underprocessed hair will be straighter at scalp and curlier at ends
- processing underprocessed hair will make hair curlier
Permanent Waving Neutralization
- Neutralization:
-- a process of stopping the action of a permanent wave solution and hardening hair in its new form using a neutralizer (chemical solution)
-- 1. Deactivates (neutralizes) any waving solutions that remains in hair
-- 2. Rebuilds disulfide bonds broken by waving solution
- Neutralizers:
-- used in permanent waving are oxidizers
-- chemical reaction involved is oxidation
-- most common neutralizer is hydrogen peroxide
-- concentration vary between 5 volume (1.5 percent) and 10 volume (3 percent)
Neutralization: Stage One
- deactivation or neutralization of any waving lotion that remains in hair after processing and rinsing
- oxidation reactions can also lighten hair colour, especially at an alkaline pH
- always rinse perm solution from hair for at least 5 minutes before applying neutralizer, to avoid scalp irritation and unwanted lightening of hair colour
- blot hair with towels and each rod several times to remove as much moisture as possible before applying neutralizer
-- excess water left in hair prevents even saturation and dilutes neutralizer
- some manufacturers recommend preneutralizing conditioner after blotting (optional step)
-- an acidic liquid protein condition can be applied and dried under a warm hair dryer for 5 minutes or more prior to neutralization
-- very beneficial for damaged hair => strengthens hair
Neutralization: Stage Two
- waving solution breaks disulfide bonds by adding hydrogen atoms to sulfur atoms in disulfide bonds
- neutralization rebuilds disulfide bonds by removing extra hydrogen atoms
- hydrogen atoms in disulfide bonds are so attracted to the oxygen in the neutralizer, they release sulfur and join with oxygen
- each oxygen atom joins with 2 hydrogen atoms to rebuild one disulfide bond and make one molecule of water.
- each sulfur atom forms a bond with its nearest neighbouring sulfur atom
- water is removed in the final rinse and the disulfide bond form in their new curled position
- the strength of newly formed disulfide bond pairs hold hair in its new shape
Post-Perm Hair Care
- although most hairstylists recommend 3-day waiting period before shampooing freshly permed hair, a properly neutralized perm is stable
- shampooing a properly process permanent with mild acid-balanced shampoos should not cause excessive relaxation or damage to hair or scalp
- unless there are signs of scalp irritation, modern demipermanent, deposit-only haircolours are safe to use on freshly permed hair
Safety Precautions for Permanent Waving
- Always protect your client's clothing. Have client change into a gown, use waterproof shampoo cape, double drape with towels to absorb accidental spills
- Do not give a permanent to any client who has experienced an allergic reaction to a previous permanent
- Do not save any opened, unused waving lotion or neutralizer
- Do not dilute or add anything to the waving lotion or neutralizer unless specified in directions
- Keep waving lotion out of the client's eyes and skin. Rinse thoroughly with water if exposed
- Always follow manufacturer's directions
- Wear gloves when applying solutions
- Immediately replace cotton or towels that have become wet with solution
- Always examine scalp before perm service. Do not proceed if there are any skin abrasions or any signs of scalp disease
- Do not perm hair that is excessively damaged or show signs of breakage
- Do not attempt to perm hair that has been previously treated with hydroxide relaxers
- Always perform a test for metallic salts if there is a possibility that metallic haircolour was used on the hair previously
- Always apply protective barrier cream around the client's hairline and ears prior to applying permanent waving solution
- hair should be giving reconditioning treatments until the condition improves and the damaged hair can be cut off
Metallic Salts
- some home haircolouring products contain metallic salts not compatible with permanent waving
- leave coating on hair that may cause uneven curls, severe discoloration or hair breakage
- commonly found in men's haircolour sold for home use
- found in haircolour restorers and progressive haircolours that darken hair gradually with repeated applications
Metallic Salt Test
1. In glass or plastic bowl, mix 1 oz of 20 volume peroxide with 20 drops of 28% ammonia
2. Immerse at least 20 strands of hair in the solution for 30 minutes.
If metallic salts are not present, hair will lighten slightly and proceed with service.
If metallic salts are present, hair will lighten rapidly. The solution may get hot and give off an unpleasant odour, do not proceed with service.
Permanent Waving Procedures
Basic Perm Warp (Straight Set Wrap)
- all tools within panel move in the same direction
- positioned on equal-size bases
- all base sections are horizontal, same length & width as perm tool
- base control: half off base
Curvature Perm Wrap
- movement curves within sectioned-out panels
- follow curvature of head
- use pie-shaped base sections
Bricklay Perm Wrap
- base sections are offset from each other row by row
-- prevents noticeable splits and to blend the flow of hair
- different bricklay patterns use different starting points
-- front hairline, occipital area, crown
-- affect directional flow of hair
- can be used with different combinations of sectioning, base control, base direction, wrapping techniques, and perm tools
Weave Technique
- zigzag partings to divide base areas
- can be kept to selected areas
- effective for blending between perm rods with opposite base direction
- create smooth transition from rolled areas into unrolled areas of partial perm
- used with variety of base directions, wrapping patterns, and perm tools
Double Tool Technique (Piggyback Wrap)
- 2 tools used for one strand of hair, one on top of the other
- doubles number of tools used
- increases amount of curl in hair
- effective on long hair
- tools with different diameters create different effects
- used with variety of base directions, wrapping patterns, and perm tools
Spiral Perm Technique (Spiral Perm Wrap)
- hair wrapped at angle causing it to spiral along length of tool, like grip on tennis racquet
- layers may partially overlap, if constant angle then uniform effect
- effective size of tool remains constant => uniform curl from scalp to ends
- benefits longer, thicker hair
- used with variety of base sections, base directions, and wrapping patterns
- base sections can be horizontal or vertical => do not affect finished curl
- conventional rods, bendable soft foam rods, circle tool can be used depending on length of hair
Preliminary Test Curls
- predict how our client's hair will react to perm
- do if hair is damaged or if you are uncertain about results
- correct processing time for optimal curl development
- results you can expect from the type of perm solution you have selected
- curl results for the tool size and wrapping technique you are planning to use
Partial Perms
- clients who have long hair on to top and crown, but very short hair with tapered sides and nape
- need volume and lift in certain areas
- hairstyle with curls along perimeter but a smooth sleek crown
- use larger tool for the last tool next to an unrolled section => create smooth transition from rolled to unrolled section
- apply waving lotion to unrolled hair may straighten it or make it difficult to style
-- protect unrolled hair by applying protective barrier cream to the unrolled section before applying wave lotion
Perms for Men
- add texture, fullness, style and low maintenance that only perm provide
- make thin hair look fuller
- make straight or coarse hair more manageable
- control stubborn cowlicks
Chemical Hair Relaxers
Chemical Hair Relaxing
- process of rearranging basic structure of extremely curly hair into straight form
- chemistry of thio relaxers and permanent waving is exactly same
- chemistry of hydroxide relaxers and permanent waving differ
- all relaxers and permanents change shape of hair by breaking disulfide bonds
- 2 most common types of chemical hair relaxers: thio (ATG) and hydroxide
Extremely Curly Hair
- extremely curly hair exists in all races
- grows in long twisted spirals or coils
- cross-sections are highly elliptical and vary in shape and thickness along their lengths
- is irregular exhibiting varying diameters along a single strand
-- Wavy hair actually has regular and uniform diameter
- Thinnest and weakest sections of hair strands located at their twists
-- also bent at extremely sharp angle
-- stretched most during relaxing
- usually breaks at twists: inherent weakness and extra physical force require to straighten hair
Thio Relaxers
- usually have pH above 10 and a higher concentration of ATG than in permanent waving
- thicker, with higher viscosity (thickness) suitable for application as a relaxer
- breaks disulfide bonds and softens hair
-- after enough bonds are broken, hair is straightened into new shape and relaxer is rinsed
-- blotting next, followed by neutralizer
Thio Neutralization
- oxidizing agent (usually hydrogen peroxide)
- oxidation reaction rebuilds disulfide bonds broken by thio relaxer
Hydroxide Relaxers
- hydroxide ion => active ingredient
- sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and guanidine hydroxide
- very strong alkalis swelling hair up to twice normal diameter
- NOT compatible with thio relaxers (different chemistry)
- pH of over 13.0
-- if hair is pH 5.0 => this is 100 million times more alkaline than hair
- Lanthionization: remove one atom of sulfur from a disulfide bond, converting it into a lanthionine bond
- disulfide bond contain 2 sulfur attoms, lanthionine bonds contain only 1 sulfur atom
- disulfide bond broken by hydroxide relaxers are broken permanently and can NEVER be reformed
Hydroxide Neutralization
- does not involve oxidation
- deactivation (neutralization) or hydroxide relaxers neutralizes alkaline residues left in hair by relaxer
- hair remains at extremely high pH even after rinsing
-- rinsing alone does NOT deactivate relaxer or restore normal acidic p of hair and scalp
- acids neutralize alkalis => acid-balanced shampoo or normalizing lotion neutralizes any remaining hydroxide ions to lower pH of hair and scalp
-- some neutralizing shampoos for use after hydroxide relaxers have a built-in pH indicator changing colour to indicate when pH of hair returns to normal
- since disulfide bonds cannot be reformed after hydroxide relaxers, using neutralizer that contains oxidizing agent will not rebuild disulfide bonds and only damage hair
Types of Hydroxide Relaxers
- Metal Hydroxide Relaxers:
-- ionic compounds formed by metal - sodium (Na), potassium (K), or lithium (Li), combined with oxygen (O) and hydrogen (H)
-- Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) (Lye Relaxers, Lye or Caustic Soda):
--- oldest and most common chemical hair relaxer
--- same chemical used in drain cleaners and chemical hair depilatories
-- Potassium Hydroxide (KOH), and Lithium Hydroxide (LiOH):
--- advertised and sold as "no mix-no lye" relaxers
--- no lye but chemistry is identical => very little difference in performance
-- calcium hydroxide (CaOH) sometimes added but not used by itself
-- contain only one component
-- used exactly as packaged without mixing
-- hydroxide ion => active ingredient
Guanidine Hydroxide Relaxers
- advertised and sold as "no lye" relaxers
- hydroxide ion => active ingredient
- contains 2 components that must be mixed immediately prior to use
- straighten hair completely with less scalp irritation than other hydroxide relaxers
-- recommended for sensitive scalps and sold over-the-counter for home use
-- do not reduce hair damage
- swell hair slightly more than other hydroxide relaxers
- more drying, especially after repeated applications
Low-pH Relaxers
- sulfites and bisulfites sometimes used as low-pH hair relaxers
- most commonly used: ammonium sulfite and ammonium bisulfite
- sulfites marketed as alternative relaxers
- compatible with thio relaxers but NOT hydroxide relaxers
- do not completely straighten extremely curly hair
- intended for use on colour-treated, damaged, or fine hair
Base and No-Base Relaxers (for hydroxide relaxers)
- hydroxide relaxers usually sold in base and no-base formula
- Base Cream:
-- oily cream used to protect skin and scalp during hair relaxing
- Base Relaxers:
-- require application of base cream to entire scalp prior to application of relaxer
- No-Base Relaxers:
-- do not require protective base
-- contain base cream designed to melt at body temperature giving thin, oily, protective coating
-- improvement on protection provided by oils in all hydroxide relaxers
-- use base cream on entire hairline, around ears for added protection (even with no-base relaxers)
Relaxer Strengths
- mild strength relaxers
-- formulated for fine, colour-treated, or damaged hair
- regular strength relaxers
-- intended for normal hair texture with medium natural curl
- super strength relaxers
-- used for maximum straightening on coarse hair that is extremely curly
- difference in strength of hydroxide relaxers due to concentration of hydroxide
CAUTION: Application of a thio relaxer or thio permanent on hair that has been treated with a hydroxide relaxer will not properly relax or curl hair and may cause extreme damage. Hair treated with hydroxide relaxers is UNFIT for thio relaxers or soft curl permanents.
Chemical Hair Relaxing Procedures
Hydroxide Relaxer Procedures
- Virgin Relaxer Application:
-- used for hair that has not had previous chemical texture services
-- scalp area and porous ends usually process more quickly than middle, start 1/4 (.6 cm) to 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) away from scalp and include entire strand, up to the porous ends
-- avoid overprocessing and scalp irritation, apply relaxer to hair closest to scalp or ends during the last few minutes of processing
- Retouch Relaxer Application:
-- hair with previous chemical texture services
-- start 1/4 to 1/2 inch away from scalp and include only new growth
-- avoid overprocessing and scalp irritation, apply relaxer to hair closest to scalp during the last few minutes of processing
-- avoid breakage to previously relaxed hair, apply cream conditioner over hair that received earlier treatment
-- avoid overlapping previously relaxed hair unless additional strengthening is required (during last few minutes)
- optional: some manufacturers recommend normalizing solution after rinsing relaxer prior to shampoo
-- Normalizing solutions:
--- conditioners with acidic pH conditions hair and restore natural pH prior to shampoo
Periodic Strand Testing
- during processing to determine when hair is sufficiently relaxed
- after relaxer is applied, stretch strands to see how fast natural curls are being removed
- may also smooth and press strand to scalp using back of comb or finger
- if strand remains smooth => sufficiently relaxed
- if curl remain => continue processing
- processing time depends on strength of tool, hair type, condition, and results looking for
CAUTION: Make sure client has not had haircolouring containing metallic salts, such as gradual or progressive haircolours, before applying either thio or hydroxide relaxers to hair. Extreme damage or breakage can occur.
Thio Relaxer Procedures
- application steps same for hydroxide relaxers except for neutralization procedure
- relaxer may be applied with bowl and brush, applicator bottle, or back of a rattail comb
- different methods used for virgin relaxers and retouch relaxers
Soft Curl Permanents (Curl Re-forming)
Soft Curl Permanents (Curl Re-forming, Jheri Curl, Curl)
- do not straighten hair
- make existing curl larger and looser
- combination of thio relaxer and thio permanent wrapped on large tools
- use ATG and oxidation neutralizers
Soft Curl Permanent Procedure
- usually 2 services
- extremely curly hair must be relaxed with a thio relaxer (curl rearranger) before wrapping on tools
- all base section horizontal with same length and width as perm tool
- base direction in hair growth
- base control => half off base
- once wrapped on large tools, processed with 2nd thio solution (curl booster)
- after processing, hair is rinsed, blotted, and neutralized
Safety Precautions for Hair Relaxing
- perform thorough hair analysis and client consultation prior to service
- examine scalp for abrasions. Do not proceed if redness, swelling, or skin lesions found
- keep accurate and detailed client record of services performed and results achieved
- have client sign release statement indicating possible risks involved in service
- do NOT apply hydroxide relaxer on hair previously treated with thio relaxer
- do NOT apply thio relaxer on hair previously treated with hydroxide relaxer
- do NOT chemically relax hair treated with metallic dye
- do NOT relax overly damage hair: suggest series of reconstruction treatments
- do NOT shampoo cient prior to application of hydroxide relaxer
- client's hair and scalp must be completely dry and free from perspiration prior to application of hydroxide relaxer
- apply protective base cream to avoid scalp irritation
- wear gloves during relaxer application
- protect client's eyes
- if accidental solution in eyes, flush immediately with cool water and refer to doctor
- do NOT allow chemical relaxers to contact client's ears, scalp, or skin
- perform periodic strand tests to see how fast natural curls are being removed
- avoid scratching scalp with comb or fingers
- do NOT allow application of relaxer retouch to overlap onto previously relaxed hair
- never use a strong relaxer on fine or damaged hair => may cause breakage
- do NOT attempt to remove more than 80% of natural curl
- thoroughly rinse chemical relaxer from hair. Failure to rinse properly can cause excessive skin irritation and hair breakage
- use normalizing lotion to restore hair and scalp to normal acidic pH
- use neutralizing shampoo with colour indicator to guarantee hair and scalp have been restored to normal acidic pH
- use conditioner and wide-tooth comb to eliminate excessive stretching when combing out tangles
- do NOT use hot irons or excessive heat on chemically relaxed hair
PERMANENT WAVE CATEGORIES
Perm Type: Alkaline (Cold Wave)
pH: 9.0 - 9.6
Active Ingredient: ammonium thioglycolate (ATG)
Process: room temperature
Hair Type: coarse, thick, or resistant
Results: firm, strong curls
Advantages: process quickly at room temperature
Disadvantages: unpleasant ammonia odour; may damage delicate hair
Perm Type: Exothermic Wave
pH: 9.0 - 9.6
Active Ingredient: ammonium thioglycolate (ATG)
Process: exothermic
Hair Type: coarse, thick, or resistant
Results: firm, strong curls
Advantages: exothermic reaction causes solution to get hot
Disadvantages: unpleasant ammonia odour; may damage delicate hair
Perm Type: True Acid Wave
pH: 4.5 - 7.0
Active Ingredient: glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG)
Process: endothermic
Hair Type: extremely porous or very damaged hair
Results: soft, weak curls
Advantages: low pH produces minimal swelling
Disadvantages: requires heat from hair dryer; will not produce firm, strong curls
Perm Type: Acid-Balanced Wave
pH: 7.8 - 8.2
Active Ingredient: glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG)
Process: room temperature
Hair Type: porous or damaged hair
Results: soft curls
Advantages: minimal swelling; processes at room temperature
Disadvantages: repeated exposure causes allergic sensitivity in clients and stylists
Perm Type: Ammonia-Free Wave
pH: 7.0 - 9.6
Active Ingredient: monoethanolamine (MEA) / aminomethylpropanol (AMP)
Process: room temperature
Hair Type: porous to normal
Results: medium to fine curls
Advantages: no unpleasant ammonia odour
Disadvantages: overall strength varies with different manufacturers
Perm Type: Thio-Free Wave
pH: 7.0 - 9.6
Active Ingredient: mercaptamine / cysteamine
Process: room temperature
Hair Type: porous to normal
Results: medium to fine curls
Advantages: may be gentler, depending on formula
Disadvantages: overall strength varies with different manufacturers
Perm Type: Low-pH Waves
pH: 6.5 - 7.0
Active Ingredient: ammonium sulfite / ammonium bisulfite
Process: endothermic
Hair Type: normal, fine, or damaged
Results: weak curl or body wave
Advantages: minimal swelling
Disadvantages: requires heat from hair dryer; produces weak curls
RELAXER CATEGORIES
Active Ingredient: Sodium Hydroxide
pH: 12.5 - 13.5
Marketed As: no-mix lye relaxer
Advantages: very effective for extremely curly hair
Disadvantages: may cause scalp irritation and damage the hair
Active Ingredient: Lithium Hydroxide & Potassium Hydroxide
pH: 12.5 - 13.5
Marketed As: no-mix lye relaxer
Advantages: very effective for extremely curly hair
Disadvantages: may cause scalp irritation and damage the hair
Active Ingredient: Guanidine Hydroxide
pH: 13 - 13.5
Marketed As: no-lye relaxer
Advantages: causes less skin irritation than other hydroxide relaxers
Disadvantages: more drying to hair with repeated use
Active Ingredient: Ammonium Thioglycolate
pH: 9.6 -10.0
Marketed As: thio relaxer, no-lye relaxer
Advantages: compatible with soft curl permanents
Disadvantages: strong, unpleasant ammonia smell
Active Ingredient: Ammonium Sulfite / Ammonium Bisulfite
pH: 6.5 - 8.5
Marketed As: low-pH relaxer, no-lye relaxer
Advantages: less damaging to hair
Disadvantages: does not relax extremely curly hair sufficiently
Procedure 30 - BASIC PERM
Implements & Materials for Permanent Waving:
- perm solution
- neutralizer
- (optional) acid-balanced shampoo
- (optional) preneutralizing conditioner
- (optional) conditioner
- protective barrier cream
- applicator bottles
- perm tools
- shampoo cape
- towels
- neutralizing bib
- roll cotton
- plastic clips for sectioning
- styling comb
- plastic rattail comb
- end papers
- (optional) roller picks
- spray bottle
- disposible gloves
- timer
Preparation for all perms:
1. Wash hands.
2. Conduct client consultation & evaluation. Fill out client's perm record. Note changes in client's history.
3. Perform hair & scalp analysis.
4. Have client change into gown and remove eyeglasses, earrings, and necklace.
5. Drape client for shampoo.
6. Gently shampoo & towel-dry hair. Avoid irritating scalp.
7. Perform preliminary test curl procedure.
Procedure for Preliminary Test Curls:
1. Wrap one tool in each area of head (Top, Side, Nape)
2. Wrap coil of cotton around each tool
3. Apply waving lotion to wrapped curls. Do not allow waving lotion to contact unwrapped hair
4. Set timer & process according to manufacturer's directions
5. Check each test curl for proper curl development. Unfasten tool and unwind curl about 1 1/2 turns. Do not allow hair to become loose or completely unwound. Gently move tool toward scalp to encourage hair to fall loosely into the wave pattern.
6. Curl development is complete when a firm and definite "S" is formed that reflects size of tool. Wave patter for fine, thin hair may be weak, with little definition. Wave pattern for coarse, think hair is usually stronger and better defined.
7. When curl has been formed, rinse thoroughly with warm water for at least 5 minutes, blot thoroughly, apply neutralizer, and process according to the manufacturer's directions. Gently dry hair and evaluate results. Do not proceed with the permanent if the test curls are extremely damaged or overprocessed. If the test curl results are satisfactory, proceed with the perm, but DO NOT re-perm these preliminary test curls.
Procedure for Basic Perm Wrap (Straight Set Wrap):
1. Divide hair into 9 panels. Use length of tool to measure width of panels. Remember to keep hair wet as you wrap.
Wrapping pattern (superimpose to back of head):
9 1 8
6 2 4
7 3 5
Alternate wrapping pattern:
9 7 8
5 1 3
6 2 4
2. Begin wrapping at front hairline or crown. Make horizontal parting same size as tool. Using 2 end papers, roll hair down to scalp in direction of hair growth and position tool half-off base. The band should be smooth, not twisted, and should be fastened straight across the top of the tool. Excessive tension may cause band marks or hair breakage. Continue wrapping remainder of the first panel using same technique. (Optional): Insert roller picks to stabilize tools. Although roller picks may be used to eliminate any tension caused by the band, they will not compensate for poorly wrapped perm. if roller picks are not used correctly, they can cause same damage as incorrect placement of the rubber band.
3. Continue wrapping remaining 8 panels in numerical order holding hair at 90-degree angle.
Procedure for Processing Permanents:
1. Apply protective barrier cream to hairline and ears. Apply roll cotton around entire hairline and offer client towel to blot any drips.
2. Slowly and carefully apply perm solution with a bottle to hair on each tool. Ask client to lean forward while you apply solution to the back area, then ask client to lean back as you apply solution to front and sides. Avoid splashing and dripping. Continue to apply solution slowly until each tool is completely saturated.
3. If a plastic cap is used, punch a few holes in cap and cover hair completely. Do not allow plastic cap to touch client's skin.
4. Check cotton and towels. Replace if they are saturated with solution.
5. Process according to manufacturer's directions. Processing time varies according to strength of solution, hair type and condition, and desired results. Processing usually takes less than 20 minutes at room temperature.
6. Check frequently for curl development. Unwind tool and check "S" pattern formation described in the preliminary test curl procedure.
7. When processing is completed, rinse hair thoroughly for at least 5 minutes, towel-blot hair on each tool to remove any excess moisture. Another option recommended by some manufacturers is to apply preneutralizing conditioner to hair, after rinsing and blotting and before applying neutralizer.
8. Apply neutralizer slowly and carefully to hair on each tool. Ask client to lean forward as you apply solution to the back, and lean back as you apply solution to front and sides. Avoid splashing and dripping. Continue to apply neutralizer until each tool is completely saturated.
9. Set a timer for the amount of time specified by manufacturer. After processing, remove tools and work remaining neutralizer through hair gently with hands.
10. Rinse thoroughly. (Optional): shampoo & condition.
11. Style hair as desired.
Cleanup and Sanitation:
1. Discard disposable supplies in appropriate receptacles.
2. Sanitize implements and store according to sanitation requireemnts.
3. Clean, sanitize, and prepare your workstation for the next service.
4. Wash hands thoroughly with soap and warm water.
5. Complete client record.
Procedure 31 - Curvature Perm Wrap
Implements & Materials and preparation as above.
Procedure:
1. Begin sectioning at the front hairline on one side of the part. Comb hair in the direction of growth, then section out individual panels to match length of rod.
2. Alternate from side to side as you section out all the curvature panels over the entire head. Sectioning panels in advance creates a road map that provides direction and gives continuity to the wrapping pattern.
3. Begin wrapping the first panel at front hairline, on one side of the part. Comb out a base section same width as the diameter of the rod. Base direction should point away from face. Hold hair at 90-degree angle to head. Using 2 end papers, roll hair down to scalp and position rod half-off base.
4. Remaining base sections in panel should be wider on the outside of panel (the side farthest away from the face). Continue wrapping the rest of rods in panel, alternating rod diameters. (Optional): Insert picks to stabilize rods adn eliminate any tension caused by the band.
5. When you reach the last rod at the hairline, comb hair flat at base and change the base direction. Direct rod up and toward base, keeping base area flat.
6. Continue with panel two, which is the front panel on the other side of the part. Repeat same procedure as on the first panel.
7. Continue with 3rd panel, which is the panel behind and next to first panel. Repeat same procedure until you reach last 2 rods at the hairline. Comb hair flat at the base and change base direction. Direct last 2 rods up and toward base, keeping base area flat.
8. Continue with 4th panel, on opposite side of teh head, behind and next to 2nd panel. Repeat same procedure as 3rd panel.
9. Follow same procedure with 5th panel. Base direction should remain consistent with the pattern already established. Base direction in back flows around and contours to the perimeter hairline area.
10. All panels should fit curvature of head and should blend into the surrounding panels.
11. Process & style hair.
12. Follow cleanup and sanitation procedures.
Procedure 32 - Bricklay Perm Wrap
Implements & Materials and preparation as above.
Procedure:
1. Begin by parting out base section parallel to front hairline same length and width as rod. Base direction is back, away from face. Hold hair at 90-degree angle to head. Using 2 end papers, roll hair down to scalp and position rod half-off base.
2. In 2nd row directly behind first rod, part out 2 base section for 2 rods offset from the centre of first rod. Hold hair at 90-degree angle to head. sing 2 end papers, roll hair down to scalp and position rods half-off base. (Optional): Insert picks to stabilize rods and eliminate any tension caused by the band.
3. Begin 3rd row by parting out a base section at the point where 2 rods meet in the previous row. Same pattern used throughout entire wrap.
4. Continue to part out rows that radiate around the curve of head through the crown area. Extend rows around and down to the side hairline, parting out base sections at the centre of the point where the two tools meet in the previous row.
5. Stop the curving rows after you have finished wrapping the crown area. Part out horizontal sections throughout the back of head and continue with bricklay pattern. You may need to change length of rods from row to row to maintain pattern.
6. Process & style hair.
7. Follow cleanup and sanitation procedures.
Procedure 33 - Weave Technique
Can be used with any wrapping pattern
Implements & Materials and preparation as above.
Procedure:
1. Part out one base section same size as 2 rods. Comb entire base section at a 90-degree angle to head and use a rattail comb to make a zigzag parting along length of base section.
2. Using two end papers, roll half of the strand down to scalp. Comb remaining half of base section at 90-degree angle, use 2 end papers, and roll the strand down to the scalp. (Optional): Secure rods and insert picks to stabilize rods and eliminate an tension caused by the band.
3. Continue same procedure in any sections where the effect is desired.
4. After processing and styling, follow clean up and sanitation procedures.
Procedure 34 - Double Tool (Piggyback) Technique
Can be used with any wrapping pattern
Implements & Materials and preparation as above.
Procedure:
1. Begin by placing base rod in middle of strand. Wrap end of strand one revolution around rod while holding it to one side. Roll the rod to base area, letting the loose ends follow as you roll. (Optional) Insert picks to stabilize rods and to eliminate any tension caused by the band.
2. Place 2 end papers on the ends of the strand and position a rod to roll from the ends toward the base area. Secure end rod on top of base rod.
3. Depending on length and size of rod, possible to roll as many as 3 end strands together on same end rod.
4. Continue same procedure in any section where the effect is desired.
5. Process and style hair.
6. Follow clean up and sanitation procedures.
Procedure 35 - Weave Technique
Implements & Materials and preparation as above.
Procedure:
1. Part hair into 4 panels, from the centre of front hairline to centre to nape and from ear to ear. Section out 5th panel from ear to ear in nape area.
2. Section out first row along hairline in nape area. Comb remainder of hair up and secure it out of way.
3. Part out first base section on one side of first row. Hold hair at 90-degree angle to head. Using 1 or 2 end papers, begin wrapping at one end of tool. Starting wrap from right or left side of tool will orient the curl in that direction.
4. Roll the first 2 full turns at 90-degree angle to tool to secure ends of hair, then start spiralling hair on tool by changing the angle to an angle other than 90 degrees. Continue to spiral hair toward other end of tool. Roll hair down to scalp, position tool half-off base and secure it by fastening ends of tool together.
5. Continue wrapping with same technique, in same direction, until first row completed.
6. Section out 2nd row above and parallel to first row. Comb remainder up and secure it to keep out of way.
7. Begin wrapping at the opposite side from the side where 1st row began, and move in the direction opposite the direction established in 1st row.
8. Follow same procedure to wrap 2nd row but begin wrapping each tool at opposite end established in 1st row. Continue wrapping with same technique, in same direction until 2nd row is completed.
9. Section out 3rd row above and parallel to 2nd row. Follow same wrapping procedure, alternating rows from left to right as you move up head. This will alternate orientation of curl throughout head.
10. Process and style hair.
11. After processing and styling, follow clean up and sanitation procedures.
Procedure 36 - Relaxing with Hydroxide Relaxer
Implements & Materials:
- hydroxide relaxer
- hydroxide neutralizer
- protective base cream
- acid-balanced shampoo
- conditioner
- bowl & applicator brush
- shampoo cape
- towels
- plastic clips
- styling comb
- plastic rattail comb
- spray bottle
- disposable gloves
- timer
Preparation:
1. Wash hands
2. Perform hair & scalp analysis. Perform test for porosity & elasticity.
3. Complete client consultation. Fill out client relaxer record. Note changes in client's history.
4. Have client change into gown and remove eyeglasses, earrings, and necklace. rape client with a shampoo cape and two towels. To avoid scalp irritation, do NOT shampoo hair prior to a hydroxide relaxer.
Procedure for Applying Virgin Hydroxide Relaxers:
1. Part hair into 4 sections, from centre of front hairline to centre of nape, and from ear to ear. Clip sections up to keep out of way.
2. Apply protective base cream to hairline and ears. (Optional): take 1/4 to 1/2 inch (.6 to 1.25 cm) horizontal partings and apply a protective base cream to the entire scalp.
3. Wear gloves on both hands. Begin application in the most resistant area, usually back of head. Make 1/4 to 1/2 inch horizontal partings and apply the relaxer to the top of the strand first, then to the underside. Apply relaxer with an applicator bottle, brush, or back of a rattail comb. Apply relaxer 1/4 to 1/2 inch away from scalp and up to porous ends. To avoid scalp irritation, do not allow relaxer to touch scalp until last few minutes of processing.
4. Continue applying relaxer, working your way down the section toward hairline.
5. Continue same application procedure with remaining sections. Finish most resistant sections first.
6. After relaxer has been applied to all sections, use back of comb or hands to smooth each section.
7. Process according to manufacturer's directions. Perform periodic strand test. Processing usually takes less than 20 minutes at room temperature.
8. During last few minutes of processing, work relaxer down to scalp and through the ends of hair, using additional relaxer as needed. Carefully comb and smooth all sections.
9. Rinse thoroughly with warm water to remove all traces of relaxer.
Neutralization Procedure:
1. (Optional): Apply normalizing solution and comb it through to ends of hair, leave on for approximately 5 minutes, and then rinse thoroughly.
2. Shampoo at least 3 times with an acid-balanced neutralizing shampoo. It is essential that all traces of relaxer be removed from hair: (Optional): If you are using a neutralizing shampoo with a colour indicator, a change in colour indicates when all traces of relaxer are removed and natural pH of hair and scalp has been restored.
3. Rinse thoroughly, condition, and style as desired.
Cleanup and Sanitation for all relaxers:
1. Discard disposable supplies in appropriate receptacles.
2. Disinfect implements and store according to sanitation requirements.
3. Clean, sanitize, and prepare your workstation for the next service.
4. Wash hands with warm soap and water.
5. Complete client record.
Procedure 37 - Hydroxide Relaxer Retouch
Implements & Materials and preparation as above.
Procedure:
1. Do NOT shampoo hair. Divide hair into 4 sections, from centre of front hairline to centre of nape, and from ear to ear. Clip sections up to keep out of way.
2. Wear gloves on both hands. Apply protective base cream to hairline and ears. (Optional): take 1/4 to 1/2 inch (.6 to 1.25 cm) horizontal partings and apply a protective base cream to the entire scalp.
3. Begin application in the most resistant area, usually back of head. Make 1/4 to 1/2 inch horizontal partings and apply the relaxer to the top of the strand. Apply relaxer 1/4 to 1/2 inch away from scalp and only to new growth. Do not allow relaxer to touch scalp until last few minutes of processing. To avoid overprocessing or breakage, do not overlap the relaxer onto the previously relaxed hair.
4. Continue applying relaxer, working your way down the section toward hairline.
5. Continue same application procedure with remaining sections. Finish most resistant sections first.
6. After relaxer has been applied to all sections, use back of comb or hands to smooth each section.
7. Process according to manufacturer's directions. Perform periodic strand test. Processing usually takes less than 20 minutes at room temperature.
8. During last few minutes of processing, work relaxer down to scalp.
9. If the ends of hair need additional relaxing, work the relaxer through to ends for the last few minutes of processing.
10. Rinse thoroughly with warm water to remove all traces of relaxer.
11. Follow neutralizing procedure. Style hair as desired.
12. Follow cleanup and sanitation procedures.
Procedure 38 - Relaxing with Thio Relaxer
Implements and Materials:
- Use same implements and materials for hydroxide relaxers, but use thio relaxer, normalizing lotion, and neutralizing shampoo (with colour indicator).
Preparation:
- Follow same steps as hydroxide relaxer
A light shampoo is optional. Do hair & scalp analysis. Test hair for elasticity and porosity in several areas of head. If hair has poor elasticity, do not perform relaxer service.
Procedure for Virgin Thio Relaxer:
- Same as for hydroxide relaxer procedure 36
Neutralization Procedure for Thio Relaxers:
1. Blot excess water from hair. Apply thio neutralizer in 1/4 to 1/2 inch (.6 to 1.25 cm) sections throughout hair, and smooth with hands or back of comb.
2. Process neutralizer according to manufacturer's directions.
3. Rinse thoroughly, shampoo, condition, and style.
Cleanup and Sanitation:
- Same as for hydroxide relaxer
Procedure for Thio Relaxer Retouch:
1. Follow preparation and application procedure 37 - hydroxide relaxer retouch. (Optional): A shampoo prior to relaxer application.
2. Follow virgin thio relaxer neutralizing and cleanup procedures
Procedure 39 - Soft Curl Permanent
Implements & Supplies:
- thio cream relaxer (curl rearranger)
- thio curl booster
- (optional) preneutralizing conditioner
- thio neutralizer
- protective base cream
- acid-balanced shampoo
- conditioner
- plastic or glass bowl
- applicator brush
- applicator bottles
- shampoo cape
- neutralizing bib
- disposable gloves
- roll cotton
- towels
- plastic clips
- styling comb
- plastic tail comb
- perm tools
- end papers
- spray bottle
- timer
CAUTION: Hair that has been treated with hydroxide relaxers must NOT be treated with thio relaxers or soft curl permanents.
Preparation:
1. Wash hands.
2. Perform client consultation, hair and scalp analysis, and note results in client record.
3. Have client change into gown and remove eyeglasses, earrings, and necklace. Drape client with shampoo cape and two towels. (Optional): Shampoo hair gently and towel-dry. Avoid any irritating scalp manipulations.
Procedure:
1. Follow procedure 36 - apply virgin hydroxide relaxer.
2. After rinsing hair, part it into 9 panels. Use length of rod to measure width of panels.
3. Wear gloves on both hands and begin wrapping at most resistant area. Apply and distribute thio curl booster to each panel as you wrap hair. Make horizontal parting same size as rod. Hold hair at 90-degree angle to head. Using 2 end papers, roll hair down to scalp and position road half-off base. (Optional): Insert roller picks to stabilize rods and eliminate any tension caused by the band.
4. Continue wrapping remainder of first panel using same technique.
5. Continue wrapping remaining 8 panels in numerical order using same technique.
6. Place cotton around hairline and neck and apply thio curl booster to all curls until they are completely saturated.
7. If plastic cap used, punch a few holes in cap and cover hair completely. Do NOT allow plastic cap to touch client's skin.
8. Check cotton and towels. If they are saturated with solution, replace.
9. Process according to manufacturer's directions. Processing time will vary according to strength of product, hair type and condition, and desired results. Processing usually takes less than 20 minutes at room temperature.
10. Check for proper curl development.
11. When processing is completed, rinse hair thoroughly, for at least 5 minutes. Then towel-blot hair on each tool to remove excess moisture. (Optional): Apply preneutralizing conditioner according to the manufacturer's directions.
12. Apply neutralizer slowly and carefully to hair on each tool. Avoid splashing and dripping. Make sure each rod is completely saturated.
13. Set a timer and neutralize according to manufacturer's directions. Remove rods, distribute remaining neutralizer through the ends of hair, and rinse thoroughly. (Optional): Shampoo and condition.
14. Style hair as desired.
Cleanup and Sanitation:
1. Discard all disposable supplies in appropriate receptacles.
2. Disinfect implements and store according to sanitation requirements.
3. Clean, sanitize, and prepare your workstation for next service.
4. Wash hands with soap and warm water.
5. Complete client record.
