Notes for Haircutting

Basic Principles of Haircutting
- process begins with combing hair
- next, hair needs to be parted
- necessary to elevate, or raise, hair while cutting to create graduated effect or layers
- core process => understanding physics of hair
- you create haircut every time you comb, lift, cut hair
- when hair falls back to natural position, falls into shape or formation, based on execution of essential steps

Head form: Anatomy of Skull
- understand shape of skull to create consistent and successful results in haircutting
- Head Form = Head Shape: shape of head or skull
- major role in guiding you to desired end result
- hair responds differently on different areas of head
-- depending on end-result length and cutting technique used
- awareness of where head form curves, turns, and changes produce best haircutting results
- Reference Points:
-- points on the head that mark where the surface of the head changes or the behaviour of hair changes
--- ears, jawline, occipital bone, or apex
-- establish proportionate design lines


Reference Points
- it will ensure balance within design => both sides of haircut turn out same
- recreate haircut again and again
- tell you where and when to change technique in order to make up for irregularities in head form
- Parietal Ridge: Crest Area
-- widest area of head, starting at temples and ending at bottom of crown
-- found by placing comb flat on head at the sides
-- where the head start to curve away from the comb is the parietal ridge
- Occipital Bone:
-- bone that protrudes at base of skull
-- feel skull, place a comb flat against nape area and observe where comb leaves head
- Apex:
-- highest point on top of head
-- place comb flat on top of head resting on highest point
- Four Corners:
-- 2 methods
-- 1. place 2 combs flat against side and back => locating back corner at point where 2 combs meet
-- 2. make 2 diagonal lines crossing apex of head, pointing directly to front and back corners
-- location of 4 corners signals a change in shape of head, from flat to round and vice versa
-- change in surface can have significant effect on outcome of haircut
-- two front corners represent widest points in fringe (bangs) area
--- cutting pat these points can cause fringe to end up on sides of haircut once dried => not good


Areas of Head
- knowing reference points gives you clear understanding of areas of head
- Top:
-- parting hair at parietal ridge (crest area)
-- hair on top behaves differently from sides and back
- Front:
-- part or draw line from apex to back of ear
- Sides:
-- all hair from back of ear forward and below parietal ridge
- Crown:
-- area between apex and back of parietal ridge
-- on many people, crown is flat and often site of cowlicks or whorls
-- pay extra attention when haircutting here
- Nape:
-- area back of neck and below occipital bone
-- part or make horizontal line across back of head at occipital bone
- Back:
-- part or draw line from apex to back of ear
- Fringe (Bangs) Area:
-- triangular section, begins at apex and ends at front corners
-- place comb on top of head so middle is balance on apex => fringe begins
-- when combed into natural falling position, falls no farther than outer corners of eyes

Lines & Angles
- every haircut made up of lines and angles
- Line: thin continuous mark used as a guide
- Angle: space between 2 lines or surfaces that intersect at given point
- 2 basic lines: straight and curved
- head made up of curved and straight lines or surfaces
- when you cut lines into hair, hair falls into shape based on lines cut
- 3 types of straight lines in haircutting: horizontal, vertical, and diagonal
1. Horizontal Lines:
-- parallel to horizon, or floor
-- level, opposite of vertical
-- direct eye from one side to the other
-- usually used to create one-length and low-elevation haircuts
-- build weight
2. Vertical Lines:
-- described as up and down
-- perpendicular to floor
-- create graduated or layered haircuts and used with higher elevations
-- remove weight
3. Diagonal Lines:
-- between horizontal and vertical
-- have a slanting or sloping direction
-- used to create Beveling => technique for creating fullness in haircut by cutting ends of hair at slight taper
-- used to create stacking and to blend long layers to short layers

- angles extremely important element in creating strong foundation and consistency in haircuting
-- particularly important in 2 instances: elevation and cutting line


Elevation (Projection or Lifting)
- Sections: hair parted into uniform working areas, for control during haircutting
- each section further divided into smaller parts called Subsections
- Part or Parting: line dividing hair to scalp that separates one section of hair from another or creates subsections
- Elevation: angel or degree at which a subsection of hair is held, or elevated from head when cutting
- action that occurs when you lift a subsection of hair above 0 degrees
- creates graduation and layers usually described in degrees
- in blunt or one-length haircut, no elevation (0 degrees)
- if haircut not one length, elevation was used
- when client brings picture of haircut, you should be able to examine and determine which elevation used, as well as cutting line
- most commonly used elevations are 45 and 90 degrees
- more you elevate hair => more graduation you create
- when you elevate hair below 90 degrees => building weight
- elevate hair at 90 degrees or higher => remove weight or layer hair
- length of which you cut hair also affects end results
- weight of hair when longer often appear heavier or less layered, due to gravity
- curly hair shrinks when it dries => use less elevation than on straighter textures or leave hair a bit longer

Cutting Line (Finger Angle, Finger Position, Cutting Position, Cutting Angle, Shears Angle)
- angle at which fingers are held when cutting, and ultimately line that is cut
- angle creates end-result shape
- described: horizontal, vertical, diagonal, or by using degrees

Guidelines (Guide)
- section of hair that determines length the hair will be cut
- located at perimeter (outer line) or interior (inner or internal part) of the cut
- usually 1st section you cut when creating a shape
- 2 basic guidelines in haircutting: stationary and traveling
- Stationary Guideline:
-- one that does not move
-- all other sections are combed to stationary guideline and cut at the same angle and length
-- used mostly in blunt (one-length) haircuts
-- using overdirection to create a length or weight increase in haircut
- Travelling Guideline (Movable Guideline):
-- moves as haircut progresses
-- travels with you as you work through haircut
-- take small slice of previous subsection and move it to next position, or subsection, becoming new guideline
-- more often used when creating layered or graduated haircuts
-- when creating uniform layers, use travelling guide with not overdirection, to create same length throughout entire haircut

Overdirection
- when you comb hair away from natural falling position, rather than straight out from the head toward a guideline
- used mostly in graduated and layered haircuts
- create length increase in design
- ie. layered haircut longer toward front => overdirect section to a stationary guide at back of ear (lift hair 90 degrees on top of head)
- ie. creating long layered haircut with shorter layers around face and longer layers in back => overdirect sections to a stationary guide at front

Client Consultation
- conversation between you and client
- find out what client is looking for, offer suggestions, and professional advice, come to decision about most suitable haircut
- purpose to open lines of communication, have understanding of what client want, ensure client understands what you like to do and together determine end result
- share thoughts about best haircut for client's face shape
- discuss nature of client's hair: thick, thin, fine, coarse, straight, curly, etc.
- if client has particular look in mind, discuss if appropriate
- use gentle persuasion and positive reinforcement when you know a look that client wants will not suit them
- offer alternative suggestions that works with client's hair texture, face shape, and lifestyle

The Desired Look
- ask what client wants
- how much time is client willing to spend on hair everyday?
- what is client's lifestyle?
- classic or trendy?
- analyze hair density, texture, growth patterns, and hairline
- ie. if client has hair growing straight up nape and is requesting short haircut that is soft and wispy at the hairline => not going to happen, suggest alternative that works with hairline

Face Shape
- analyze client's face shape pull all hair away with clip, or wrap hair in towel
- look for widest areas, narrowest areas, and balance of features
- quick way => determine if face is predominantly wide or long
- look for features you want to bring out and those you want to deemphasize
- analyzing face shape in order to decide most suitable haircut, or shape for client
- remember weight and volume draw attention to an area
- remember client's profile
-- turn chair to see client from the side in the mirror
-- pull hair away from face and up and away from neck
-- look for features to emphasize (ie. jawline, neck)
-- look for features to draw attention away from (ie. prominent or receding chin, double chin, nose)
- decide on what kind of part client will wear
-- natural part, centre part, or side part

Hair Analysis
- density
- texture
- wave pattern
- hairlines
- growth pattern

Hair Density
- number of individual hair strands on one square inch of scalp
- thin
- medium
- thick

Hair Texture
- general quality and feel of hair
- based on thickness or diameter of each hair strand
- coarse
- medium
- fine

Why is density and texture important?
- different hair types respond different to kind of cutting they receive
- some hair types need more layers
- some need more weight
- coarse hair tend to stick out if cut too short
- thin hair can be cut very short and still lie flat
- if client has fine (texture) and thin (density) hair, cutting too short = unflattering look, with scalp showing

Density & Texture

Texture: Fine
Density
- Thin: limp, needs weight
- Medium: great for many cuts, especially blunt and low elevation. Razor cuts are good
- Thick: usually needs more texturizing. Suitable for many haircuts

Texture: Medium
Density
- Thin: needs weight. Graduated shapes work well
- Medium: great for most cuts. Hair can handle texturizing
- Thick: many shapes are suitable. Texturzing usually necessary

Texture: Coarse
Density
- Thin: maintain some weight. Razor cuts not recommended
- Medium: great for many shapes. Razor cuts appropriate if hair is in good condition
- Thick: very short cuts do not work. Razors may frizz and "expand" hair. Maintain some length to weigh hair down


Wave Pattern
- amount of movement in hair strand, varies from client to client as well as within same head of hair
- client may have stick-straight hair (no wave), wavy hair, curly hair, extremely curly hair, or anything in between

Hairlines & Growth Patterns
- hairline is hair that grows at the outermost perimeter along face, around ears, and on neck
- growth pattern is direction in which hair grows from scalp
-- Growth Pattern = Natural Fall = Natural Falling Position
- cowlicks, whorls, and other growth patterns affect where hair ends up once it is dry
-- use less tension when cutting those areas to compensate for hair being pushed up when it dries, especially in the nape or avoid getting a hole" around the ear in a one-length haircut
- another crucial area is the crown => many people have something going on there

FYI:
- hair shrinks when it dries
- once you and client decide on length, keep in mind hair will shrink 1/4 inch (0.6cm) to 1/2 inch (1.25cm) after it is dry
-- cut hair 1/4 to 1/2 inch longer than desired length
- if hair curly, it will shrink even more 1/2 to 2 inches (5cm)

Tools, Body Position, and Safety
- you're only as good a your tools

Haircutting Tools
- Haircutting Shears:
-- used to cut blunt or straight lines in hair
-- slide cut, point cut, and other texturizing techniques
-- shears and scissors interchangeable
- Thinning Shears: (Texturizing Shears, Tapering Shears, or Notching Shears)
-- used to remove bulk from hair
-- different types with varying amounts of teeth in blades
-- more teeth there are => less hair removed
-- Notching shears designed to remove more hair with larger teeth set farther apart
- Straight Razor or Razor Shaper:
-- used when softer effect desired on hair ends
-- can be used to create entire haircut, to thin hair out, or texturize certain areas
-- comes in different shapes and sizes, with our without guards
- Clip[ers:
-- used to create shot tapers, short haircuts, fades, and flat tops
-- can be used without guard to shave right to scalp
-- using cutting guards at various lengths
-- used in "clipper-over-comb" technique
- Edgers:
-- smaller version of clippers
-- used to remove excess or unwanted hair at neckline and around ears,
-- haircuts for men and very short haircuts for women
- Wide-tooth Comb:
-- used to detangle hair
-- rarely used during haircut
- Sectioning Clips:
-- come in variety of shapes, styles, and sizes
-- made of plastic or metal
-- 2 types: jaw clips and duckbill clips
- Barber Comb:
-- used for close tapers in nape and sides when using shears-over-comb technique
-- narrow end of comb allows shears to get very close to head
- Styling or Cutting Comb: (All-purpose Comb)
-- used for most haircutting procedures
-- 6-8 inches (15-20cm) in length and has fine teeth at one end, wider teeth at other

Parts of Haircutting Shears:
1. Moving Blade
2. Still Blade
3. Pivot Screw
4. Tang or Finger Brace
5. Finger Grip
6. Thumb Grip

Parts of Razor
1. Head
2. Point
3. Edge
4. Blade
5. Heel
6. Back
7. Shoulder
8. Shank
9. Pivot
10. Pivot
11. Tang
12. Handle

Holding Your Tools
- 1. proper holding => most control and best results when cutting hair
- 2. proper holding => avoid muscle strain in hands, arms, neck, and back

Holding Shear
1. open right hand (left if left-handed), place right finger in finger grip of still blade and little finger in finger brace (tang)
2. place thumb in finger grip (thumb grip) of moving blade
3. practice opening and closing shears.
- concentrate on moving thumb only
- ie. lay still blade against palm or forefinger of other hand, while you move other blade with thumb

Holding Shears and Comb
- learn early how to hold both tools during entire haircutting process
- your cutting hand (dominant hand) does most of work
-- it holds shears, parts of hair, comb hair, and cuts hair
- your holding hand, holds sections of hair and comb while cutting

Palming the Shears
- remove thumb from thumb grip, leaving right and little fingers in grip and finger rest
- curl fingers in to "palm" the shears, which keeps them closed while you comb or part the hair
-- holds comb and shears simultanously
- while palming shears, hold comb between thumb, index, and middle fingers

Transferring the Comb
- after combing subsection into position, free up cutting hand
- once fingers in cutting position, transfer comb by placing it between thumb and index finger of holding hand (hand holding subsection)
- ready to cut subsection

Holding the Razor
- straight razor or shaping razor is a versatile tool that can be used for entire haircut, or for detailing and texturizing
- holding and working with razor feels very different from using shears
- Method A:
-- open razor so that handle is higher than shank
-- place thumb on thumb grip and the index, middle, and ring fingers on shank
-- place little finger on tang, underneath handle
-- when cutting subsection, position razor on top of subsection, the part facing you, for maximum control
- Method B:
-- open razor until handle and shank striaght
-- place thumb on grip and wrap fingers around handle
- palm the razor:
-- curl ring and little fingers to palm the razor
-- hold comb between thumb, index, and middle fingers
- most razor accidents happen while combing hair, not when cutting, because of loose grip when palming
- practice keeping a firm grip, keeping open blade from sliding and cutting hand while combing

Handling Comb
- both wide and fine teeth of comb are regularly used when cutting hair
- wide teeth used for combing and parting hair
- fine teeth combs section before cutting
-- provides more tension => useful when cutting around ears, difficult hairlines, cutting curly hair
- practice turning comb in your hand while palming shears

Tension
- amount of pressure applied when combing and holding a subsection, created by stretching or pulling the subsection
- from minimum to maximum
- control tension with fingers
- teeth of comb also affect tension
-- greater tension can be achieved with closer and finer teeth
- consistent tension important for even results in haircut
- use maximum tension on straight hair, when you want precise lines
- with curly or wavy hair, lot of tension will result in hair shrinking more than usual when dry
- minimum tenion used around ears or hairlines with strong growth patterns

Posture & Body Position
- posture = how you stand
- body position = how you hold your body when cutting hair
- you spend many hours on your feet
- good posture and body position avoid back problems and ensure better haircutting results
- position the client:
-- make sure client is sitting up straight legs uncrossed
-- gentle reminders during session may be necessary
-- you can move client by turning chair
- centre your weight:
-- keep body weight centred and firm
-- stand knees slightly bent
-- bend one knee if you need to lean slightly one way or the other, not from waist
- Stand in front of your section:
-- stand directly in front of area you are cutting
--- keeps body weight centred and automatically moving around head during haircutting service
--- may choose to move client's chair

Hand Positions for Different Cutting Angles
- always stand in front of area you are working on
- position hands according to cutting line
- cutting over fingers:
-- used most often when cutting uniform or increasing layers
-- usually stand to the side of section
- cutting below fingers: inside knuckles
-- when cutting one-length bob or a heavier graduated haircut
- cutting palm-to-palm:
-- when cutting with a vertical or diagonal cutting line
-- best way to maintain control of subsection, especially with regard to elevation and overdirection
-- palms of both hands are facing each other while cutting
-- prevent strain on back

Safety in Haircutting
- always palm shears and razors when combing or parting hair
-- keeps points of shears closed and pointed away from client
-- prevents you from cutting yourself or client
-- reduces strain on index finger and thumb
- do NOT cut past 2nd knuckle when cutting underneath fingers or inside hand
-- skin is soft and fleshy past 2nd knuckle and is easy to cut
- when cutting around ears or shorter haircuts, take extra care not to accidentally cut ear
- when cutting bangs or any area close to skin, balance shears by placing tip of index finger of left hand (right if you cut with left) on the pivot screw and the knuckles of your left hand against skin
-- prevents clients being poke if moved suddenly
-- balance shears and cut cleaner line
- when working with razor, always use guard
-- once you are comfortable holding, palming, and cutting with the razor, you may practice without guard
- take extra care when removing and disposing razor blade
-- place blade in original sleeve or wrap in paper towel to prevent cuts

Sanitation and Disinfection Guidelines
1. wash hands with soap nd warm water before and after each service
2. before blow-drying, sweep up cut hair and dispose properly
3. drape client properly for shampoo and haircutting procedures
4. always sanitize combs, brushes, shears, clips, and other implements after each haircut by washing thoroughly and placing in a disinfectant solution or by another method approved by regulatory agency
5. replace blade in razor prior to each new client. discard used blades in puncture-proof container
6. keep shears in good working order by lubricating with few drops of oil and wiping with chamois (dry cloth)
7. sanitize workstation after each haircutting service

Basic Haircuts
- art of haircutting => variations on 4 basic haircuts:
-- blunt
-- graduated
-- layers
-- long layers

- Blunt Haircut: (One-Length Haircut, Zero-Elevation Cut, or No-Elevation Cut)
-- all hair comes to one hanging level, forming a weight line or area
-- cut with no elevation or overdirection
-- cut with stationary guide
-- cutting line can be horizontal, diagonal, or rounded
-- excellent for finer & thinner hair types
--- because hair is one length => appear thicker

- Weight Line:
-- visual "line" in haircut, where ends hang together

- Graduated Haircut:
-- graduated shape or wedge
-- results from cutting hair with tension, low to medium elevation, or overdirection
-- most common elevation is 45 degrees
-- visual buildup of weight in given area
-- ends of hair appear to be "stacked"
-- many variations and effects simply by adjusting degree of elevation, amount of overdirection, or cutting line

- Layered Haircut:
-- graduated effect achieved by cutting hair with elevation or overdirection
-- hair cut at higher elevations, usually 90 degrees and above
-- generally have less weight than graduated haircuts
-- ends appear father apart
-- layers create movement and volume in hair by releasing weight
-- layered haircut can be created with travelling guide, stationary guide, or both

- Long Layered Haircut:
-- hair is cut at 180 degree angle
-- gives more volume to hairstyles and can be combined with other basic haircuts
-- resulting shape => shorter layers at top and increasingly longer layers toward perimeter

- every hair cut is made up of one, two, or all three of these basic techniques
- add texturizing, slide cutting, or shears-over-comb => advanced haircut

General Haircutting Tips
- Always take consistent and clean partings
-- ensures even amount of hair in each subsection and produce more precise results
- take extra care in crown and neckline
-- sometimes have strong growth patterns
- another danger zone: hair around ears or hangs over ears in finished haircut
-- allow for protrusion of ear by either keeping more weight in this area or cutting with minimal tension
- always use consistent tension
-- tension range from minimum to maximum
-- maintain light tension by using wide teeth of comb and not "pulling" subsection too tightly
-- whatever tension you are using, should be consistent within area
- pay attention to head position
-- if head not upright, hard to judge elevation and overdirection
- maintain even amount of moisture in hair
-- dry hair responds to cutting differently than wet hair => give uneven results in finished haircut
- always work with guideline
-- if you cannot see the guide, your subsection is too thick
--- go back and take smaller subsection before cutting
-- taking too large subsection => large mistake
- always cross-check haircut
-- cross-checking is parting haircut in opposite way from cut to check for precision of line and shape
-- if vertical partings used in haircut, cross-check lengths with horizontal partings
- use mirror to see your elevation
-- can also turn client sideways so that you can see one side in mirror while working on opposite side
-- helps create even lines and maintains visual balance while working
- always check both sides even by standing in front of client as well
- remember curly hair shrinks more than straight hair, from 1/2 to 2 inches (1.25 to 5cm)
-- always leave length longer than desired result

The Blunt Haircut
- client's head upright and straight
- if you tilt head forward
-- hair will NOT fall in natural falling position
-- line will not fall as you cut it
-- have created some unintended graduation
- hold sections between fingers or use comb to hold hair
- always with little or no tension
- if hair past shoulders, sections need to be held between fingers with minimal tension

Other Blunt Haircuts
- in classic A-line bob, a diagonal cutting line (finger angle) is used
- in longer blunt haircut, fringe left long and cut with horizontal finger angle
- blunt haircut on curly hair => naturally "graduates" itself when dried
- classic pageboy or "bowl" shape, perimeter is curved, using combination of horizontal and curved lines

Tips for Blunt Haircuts
- always cut with minimal or no tension
- work with natural growth patterns of hair, keeping client's head upright
- always comb section twice before cutting, to ensure you have combed hair clean from parting to ends
-- if using wide teeth comb, comb section first with fine teeth, then turn comb around and recomb with wide teeth
- always maintain even amount of moisture in hair
- pay close attention to growth patterns in crown and hairline
- take precautions to allow for protrusion of ear, to avoid getting "hole"

The Graduated (45-Degree) Haircut
- you will be working with a vertical cutting line and 45-degree elevation as well as a 90-degree elevation
- can work with centre or side part or a fringe
- uses both stationary and travelling guidelines

Other Graduated Haircuts
- classic graduated bob, popular by Vidal Sassoon, diagonal sections and finger angles used to create rounded or beveled effect
-- haircut begins in back, using 45-degree elevation throughout and gradually incorporates sides and top
-- if hairline grows up or toward centre, use shears-over-comb technique to blend it
- ie. shorter shape that has "rounded" weight
-- haircut created using diagonal partings that connect at back of ear
-- in front of ear, diagonal partings point down toward face
-- behind ear, diagonal partings point down toward back
-- sides are elevated and overdirected to back of ear, producing more length toward face
-- back is cut using travelling guideline, with each section overdirected to previous section

Tips for Graduated Haircuts
- heavier graduated haircuts (lower elevations) work well on hair that tend to "expand" when dry
-- coarse textures and curly hair will appear to graduate more than straight hair
-- keep your elevation below 45 degrees when working on these hair types
- fine hair responds well to graduation
-- graduations build weight
-- makes thin or fine hair appear thicker and fuller
-- if hair both fine and thin, avoid creating heavy weight lines
-- softer graduation using diagonal partings, will create softer weight line
-- if hair medium density but fine texture => safe to elevate more
--- enough density to support it
- check neckline carefully before cutting nape short
-- if hairline grows straight up => leave length longer and graduation lower => falls below hairline
-- also blend in tricky hairline by using shears-over comb technique
- always use fine teeth of comb and maintain even tension to ensure precise line

The Uniform Layered (90-degree) Haircut
- all hair elevated to 90 degrees and cut at same length
- interior travelling guideline
- Interior Guideline: inside haircut rather than on perimeter
- resulting shape appear soft and rounded, with no build-up weight or corners
- perimeter of hair will fall softly => vertical section on interior reduce weight

Long Layered (180-degree) Haircut
- use increased layering, progressively longer layers
- interior guide, beginning at top of head
- all remaining hair elevated up (180 degrees) to match guide

Other Examples of Layered Haircuts
- if you follow uniform layering technique but cut hair much shorter: 1inch (2.5cm) => you create "pixie," "crop," or "Caesar" haircut
-- flattering on both men and women
- if you follow same method but keep "corners"  by keeping fingers vertical and not follow head form => create a square shape, common in man's basic haircut
- you can create laered haircut with longer perimeter lengths, otherwise known as "shag"
-- cutting top area same as for uniform layers
-- elevating side and back section straight up (180 degrees)
-- blending them into top lengths

Tips for Layered Haircuts
- cut interior first, then go back to perimeter edges and cut stronger lines, cut around ears, or texturize when needed
- when layering hair short, best on medium to thicker densities
-- cutting thin hair too short expose scalp
- coarse hair tends to stick out if cut shorter than 3 inches
-- needs extra length to hold it down
- longer layered shapes while maintaining thickness at bottom, remember to keep top sections longer
-- cutting top layers too short take too much hair away from rest of haircut
-- leave you with collapsed shape that is stringy at bottom
- if client has long hair, past shoulder blades, use slide cutting to connect top sections to lengths
-- maintain maximum length and weight at perimeter of haircut

Cutting Curly Hair
- curl patterns range from slightly wavy to extremely curly
- fine, medium, or coarse textures
- density thick to thin

Tips for Cutting Curly Hair
- curly hair shrinks more after it dries than straight
-- curlier the hair => more it shrink
-- for every 1/4 inch (.6cm) you cut wet hair => shrink up to 1 inch (2.5cm) when dry
- use minimal tension and/or wide teeth of comb
-- too much tension stretches wet hair even more => shrinking more
- curly hair naturally "graduates" itself
-- if shape has strong angles => elevate less than working with straight hair
- curly hair expands more than straight hair
-- generally need to leave lengths longer, ultimately helps weigh hair down and keeps shape from shrinking or ending up too short
- razor should NOT be used on curly hair => weakens cuticle and cause frizz
- choose texturizing techniques carefully
-- avoid using razor
-- work mostly with point cutting and freehand notching to remove bulk and weight

Examples of Basic Haircuts on Curly Hair
- hair appears stacked, even though it was cut with blunt technique
- although hair not elevated, it appears graduated
- notice how volume in graduated haircut is above ears
-- hair shrinks as it dries, resulting in weight line that has graduated itself even higher
- notice round shape
-- uniformed-layered cut on curly hair

Other Cutting Techniques
- make wild hairlines calm down
- make thick hair behave like thinner hair
- make fine hair appear fuller
- blend one area to another
- make hair appear to move more
- add volume or reduce volume
- compensate for different growth patterns that exist in same head of hair

Cutting the Fringe (Bangs)
- much of our haircutting history comes from England, often hear "fringe" instead of "bangs"
-- between 2 front corners, or approximately between outer corners of eyes
- important to work with natural distribution (where and how hair is moved over head) when locating fringe area
-- every head is different => make sure cut only hair that falls in that area
- do not always cut all hair in this area, but you never cut more unless you are blending to sides or top
- ie. fringe is cut using stationary guide, elevating 90 degrees straight up  from head form
- ie. short bangs make strong statement, combined with shorter layered haircut
-- line is curved, cut with low elevation => hair remains more solid-looking and not too heavy
- ie. fringe is very long, cut with slide cutting technique => wispy effect
- sometimes only a few pieces are cut in fringe area
-- keeps hair out of face
-- might use razor
- depending on haircut, fringe can be blended or not
-- if working with blunt haircut and fringe is one length => not need to blend
-- if working with layered or graduated shapes => blend length of fringe into sides and/or top

Razor Cutting
- provides different kind of result from other haircutting procedures
- softer appearance than shear cutting
- excellent choice when working with medium to fine hair textures
- entire haircut moves and blends more
- when using shears, usually cut ends of hair blunt
- when with razor, ends are cut at angle and line is NOT blunt
-- softer shapes with more visible separation, or a "feathered" effect on ends
- with razor, only one blade cutting hair, much finer blade than shears
- with shears, 2 blades close on hair creating blunt ends
- any haircut done with shears can also do with razor
- cut horizontal, vertical, and diagonal lines
- difference => guide above fingers
-- shears, guide usually below fingers
- 2 commonly used methods for cutting with razor
- 1. razor is kept more parallel to subsection
-- technique mainly used to thin ends of hair, and entire length of blade is used
- 2. come into subsection with blade at angle (45 degrees)
-- using 1/3 of blade to make small strokes as you work through subsection
- if blade is not entering hair at an angle, and you attempt to "push" the razor through hair => putting added stress to hair & risk losing control
- always remember => blade need to be at an angle when entering hair
- when cutting a section, usually move from top to bottom, or side to side, depending on section and finger angle

Razor Cutting Tips
- make sure hair in good condition
- never use razor on curly hair, coarse wiry hair, or overprocessed, damaged hair
- always use guard
- always use new blade
-- work with dull blade painful for client, puts added stress on hair
-- discard used blades in puncture-proof container
- keep hair wet
-- cutting dry hair make frizz and be painful to client
- always work with razor at an angle
-- never force razor through hair

Slide Cuttting
- method of cutting or thinning hair
- fingers and shears glide along edge of hair to remove length
- useful for removing length, blending shorter lengths to longer lengths and texturizing
- perfect way to layer very long hair and keep weight at the erimeter
- rather than opening and closing shears, keep the partially open as you "slide" along end of section
- only performed on wet hair with razor-sharp shears
- 2 methods of holding subsection when slide cutting
- important to visualize line to cut before you begin
- 1. hold subsection with tension beyond cutting line
- 2. place shears on top of knuckles, then use both hands to move simultaneously out to length

Shears-Over-Comb (Scissors-Over-Comb)
- barbering technique crossed over into cosmetology
- hold hair in place with comb while using tips of shears to remove lengths
- used to create very short tapers and allows you to cut from an extremely short length to longer lengths
- start at hairline and work way to longer lengths
- best on dry hair => you see exactly how much hair you are cutting and maintain control
- lift (elevate) hair away from head using comb
- allow comb to act as guide
- do not hold hair between fingers
- let shears nd comb move simultaneously up the head
- crucial one blade stays still and remains parallel to spine of comb as you move thumb blade to close shears
- strive for continual motion
- stopping motion cause "steps" or visible weight lines in hair
- practice moving comb and shears simultaneously, keeping bottom blade still and opening and closing shears with thumb

Basic steps working with shears-over-comb technique
1. stand directly in front of section. area you are cutting should be eye level
2. place comb, teeth first, into hairline, and turn comb so that teeth are angled away from head
3. with still blade parallel to spine of comb, begin moving comb up the head, continually opening and closing thumb blade smoothly and quickly
4. angle comb farther away from head as you reach area you are blending to avoid cutting into length (weight)

Shears-Over-Comb Tips
- work in small areas at a time (no wider than blade)
- always start at hairline and work up toward length
-- may even run comb again through a previously cut section, on your way up to new area
- cross-check by working across area diagonally
- use barber comb to cut areas very close (usually on sideburns and hairlines where hair is cut close to scalp)
-- switch to regular cutting comb as your work up to longer lengths



Tips: Ticket Upgrading
- if you refer client to colour specialist in salon, you have increased her total ticket (upselling)

Texturizing
- process of removing excess bulk without shortening length
- cut for effect within hair length, casing wispy or spiky effects
- should not be confused with hair texture => diameter of hair strand
- add volume, remove volume, make hair move, blend one area to another
- compensate for different densities that exist within same head of hair
- done with cutting shears, thinning shears, or a razor
- many texturizing techniques

Texturizing with Shears
- Point Cutting:
-- technique performed on ends of hair using tips, or points, of the shears
-- wet or dry hair
-- dry hair => hair stands up and away from fingers
-- hold hair 1-2 inches (2.5-5cm) from ends
-- turn wrist so tips of shears pointing into ends, palms facing away from you
-- open and close shears by moving thumb as you work across section
-- as you close shears, move them away from your fingers to avoid cutting yourself
-- move them back toward fingers as you open them
-- more vertical shear angle removes less hair
-- more diagonal shears angle, more hair taken away, chunkier the effect
- Notching:
-- another version of point cutting
-- more aggressive and creates chunkier effect
-- done toward ends
-- hold section about 3 inches (7.5cm) from ends
-- place tips of shears about 2 inches (5cm) from ends
-- close shears as you quickly move them out toward ends
-- if thick hair, repeat motion every 1/8 inch (.3cm)
-- on medium to fine, place notches further apart
-- done on wet or dry hair
- Free-Hand Notching:
-- also uses tips of sears
-- do not slide shears but snip out pieces of hair at random intervals
-- generally used throughout interior of the sections, rather than at ends
-- works well on curly hair, when not desirable to ad too many layers, but to release curl and remove some density
- Slithering or Effilating:
-- process of thinning hair to graduated lengths with shears
-- hair strand is cut by sliding movement of the shears, with blades kept partially opened
-- reduces volume and creates movement
- Slicing:
-- technique that removes bulk and adds movement through the lengths of the hair
-- never close shears
-- use only the portion of the blades near pivot => prevents removing large piece of hair
-- performed within a subsection or just on the surface with haircutting or texturizing shears
-- to slice an elevated subsection, work with either wet or dr hair
-- to slice on surface of haircut, best to work on dry hair => you can see exactly how much hair you are taking away
- Carving:
-- version of slicing that creates a visual separation in hair
-- works best on short hair (1 1/2 to 3 inches, or 3.75 - 7.5cm)
-- done by placing still blade into hair and resting it on scalp
-- move shears through hair, gently opening and partially closing shears as you move, thus "carving" out areas
-- more horizontal the shears => more hair removed
-- more vertical the shears => less hair removed
- by carving ends, you can add texture and separation to perimeter of haircut by holding ends of a small strand of hair between thumb and index fingers, and carving on surface of strand
-- begin carving about 3 inches from ends toward your fingers

Texturizing with Thinning Shears
- Removing Bulk (Thinning):
-- originally created for thinning out hair and blending
-- many clients afraid of word "thinning"
-- more modern word "removing bulk" or "removing weight"
-- best to follow same sectioning as in original haircut
-- comb subsection out and cut with thinning shears, at least 4-5 inches (10 - 12.5cm) from scalp
-- on longer lengths, you may need to repeat process again as you move out toward ends
-- on coarse hair textures, stay farther away from scalp, as sometimes shorter hairs will poke through haircut
-- on blunt haircuts, avoid thinning top surfaces => see visible lines
-- on curly hair, best to use free--hand notching technique rather than thinning shears
- Removing Weight from Ends:
-- use thinning shears to remove bulk from ends
-- works on many hair textures
-- taper perimeter of both graduated and blunt haircuts
-- elevating each subsection out from head, place thinning shears into hair at angle and close shears a few times as you work toward ends
- Thinning Shears-Over-Comb:
-- useful for blending weight lines on finer textures of hair
-- can be used on thick and coarse haircut that are very short, especially in sides and nape
-- help to hair to lie closer to head
- Other Thinning Shears Techniques:
-- any texturizing technique that can be performed with regular haircutting shears may also be done with thinning shears
-- when working on fine or thin hair, try using thinning shears for carving, point cutting, and slicing
-- keeps from overtexturizing and removing too much weight

Texturizing with Razor
- Removing Weight:
-- thin out ends
-- on damp hair, hold section out from head, fingers at ends
-- place razor flat to hair, 2-3 inches (5-7.5cm) away from fingers
-- gently stroke razor, removin thin "sheet" of hair from area
-- this tapers ends of section and can be used on any area of haircut where this effect is desired
- Free-Hand Slicing:
-- used throughout section or at ends
-- done on wet hair
-- working in the midshaft of subsection, comb hair out from head, and hold it with your fingers close to ends
-- with tip of razor, slice out pieces of hair
-- more vertical the movement => less hair you remove
-- more horizontal the movement => more hair you remove
-- releases weight from subsection, allowing it to move more
-- do on ends of hair to produce softer perimeter or to create separation throughout shape
-- hold ends of small piece of hair in your fingertips
-- begin about 3 inches from fingers, slice down one side of piece toward fingers
- Razor-Over-Comb:
-- comb and razor used on surface of hair
--- softens weight lines and causes area to lie closer to head
-- mainly on shorter haircuts
-- 2 approaches
-- 1. place comb into hair, teeth pointing down, a few inches above area on which you will be working
--- make small, gentle strokes on surface of har with razor
--- move comb down as you move razor down
-- 2. Razor rotation:
--- very similar to razor-over-comb
--- difference is to make small circular motions
--- begin by combing hair in direction you will be moving in
--- place razor on surface of hair
--- allow comb to follow razor, combing through area just cut, then comb back into section or onto new section
--- softens texture of area and gives direction to haircut

Basic Hiarcuts Enhanced with Texturizing Techniques
- ie. blunt haircut before freehand razor slicing
- ie. graduated haircut before freehand shears slicing
- ie. uniform layered haircut before notching on ends and free-hand notching on interior

Clippers, Edgers, and Trimmers
- Clippers:
-- electric devices that cut hair by using 2 moving blades held in place by metal plate with teeth
-- mainly used to cut shorter haircuts
-- used to create tapers, which sit very close to hairline and gradually get longer as you move up head
-- 1. used without length guards, to remove hair completely (cleaning up neckline and around ears)
-- 2. used without length guard, to taper hairlines from extremely short lengths into longer lengths, using clipper-over-comb technique (clipper move sideways across the comb rather than bottom to top)
--3. used with length guards, attachments fitting over blade plate and vary in size from 1/8  - 1 inch

Tools for Clipper Cutting
- Clippers:
-- come in different shapes and sizes
-- used with or without attachments
-- Edgers, also called Trimmers, are usually cordless, smaller-sized clippers
--- mainly used to clean necklines and around ears
-- clean clippers and edgers after each use with clipper brush
-- disinfect detachable blade and heel after each use
-- follow manufacturer's instructions for care and cleaning
- Length Guard Attachments:
-- cut all hair evenly to exact length
-- range from 1/8 - 1 inch (.3 - 2.5cm) wide
-- can be sued in different combinations to create different lengths
- Haircutting Shears:
-- used mainly for removing length and detailing haircut
- Thinning Shears: Blending or Tapering Shears
-- removes excess bulk and for blending one area with another
- Combs:
-- regular cutting comb
--- wider-spaced teeth => geared for combing and cutting
--- finer-spaced teeth => used for detailing, shears-over-comb, and clipper-over-comb techniques
-- classic barbering comb
--- used in nape, at sides, and around ears
--- allows you to cut hair very short and close to head
-- wide-toothed comb
--- used to cut thicker & longer lengths, where detailing not required

Basic Clipper Techniques
- clipper-over-comb
- clipper cutting with length guard attachments

Clipper-Over-Comb
- cuts hair very close to scalp and create a flat-top or square shape
- use comb like working with shears-over-comb
-- difference: clippers move across comb => requires you to keep comb in position as you cut
- angle at which you hold comb, determines amount of hair that is cut
- clippers most accurate when used on dry hair
- use lever switch on clipper or a numbered attachment to vary distance that clipper is held from head
- 1. stand directly in front of section. area you are cutting at eye level
- 2. place comb, teeth first, into hairline, turn comb so that teeth angled slightly away from head
-- always work against growth patterns of hair to ensure lifting hair away from head and cutting evenly
- 3. hold comb stationary and cut length against the comb, moving clippers from right to left (left to right if left-handed)
- 4. fluid movements, remember to stop momentarily to cut section
-- remove comb from hair and begin motion again, using previously cut section underneath as guideline
-- continue working up head toward weight or length

Clipper Cutting with Attachments
- create short hircuts
- ie. use 1/4 inch guide in nape and sides
- ie. switch to 1/2 inch guide as you reach parietal area
-- maintain more length at parietal and produce square shape

Using Edgers and Trimmers
- using edgers around ears
-- use both hands to hold edger sideways
-- using just outer edge on skin, arc edger up and around ear
-- as you reach behind ear, use comb to hold hair in place, continue with arcing motion
- using edgers at neckline
-- clean up hair on heck that grows below design line
-- edgers create more defined lines at perimeter

Men's Basic Clipper Cut
- hair is close-croped along bottom and sides and become longer as you travel up head
- distance between comb and scalp determines amount of hair to cut
- clipper can be positioned horizontally, vertically, or diagonally

Tips for Clipper Cutting
- always work against natural growth patterns, especially in nape
-- ensures elevating hair away from head and cutting hair evenly
- always work in small sections
-- when clipper-over-combing, do not try to cut all the way across entire length of comb
-- area you are cutting should be no wider than 3 inches
- when using clipper-over-comb technique, angle of comb determines cutting angle
- if comb is parallel to head, you will cut hair the same length as you move up head
-- if comb is angled away from head as you move, you begin to build length

Trimming Facial Hair
- clippers and edgers used to trim beards and moustaches
- technique similar to shears-over-comb and clipper-over-comb
- when removing length, use comb to control hair, and always cut against comb
- use length guard attachments to trim a beard to desired length
- if you choose to use haircutting shears to trim facial hair -> keep a less expensive pair for this purpose
-- facial hair is very coarse and may dull haircutting shears
- some male clients have excess hair in ears
- when performing haircut or trimming facial hair, always check ears and ask client if he'd like to remove any excess hair you may find
- carefully snip away hair with shears, using extreme caution

Procedure 3 - Blunt Haircut

Implements & Materials
- towels
- shampoo cape
- shampoo & conditioner
- cutting cape
- wide-tooth comb
- cutting or styling comb
- four sectioning clips
- haircutting shears
- water spray bottle
- neck strip

Preparation
1. perform client consultation and hair analysis
2. drape client for shampooing, using 2 towels
3. shampoo and condition hair as necessary
4. towel-dry hair. remove towel around neck and dispose of properly, leaving 2nd towel in place to prevent excess water from dripping on client
5. escort client back to styling chair. secure neck strip around neck. place cape over neck strip and fasten in back. fold neck strip down over cape so no part of cape touches client's skin

Procedure
1. detangle hair with wide-tooth comb.  comb hair back and away from face to find natural part, or part hair way client will be wearing it
2. take centre part, from hairline to nape, dividing head in 2
3. find apex of head. take parting from apex to back of ear on both sides, and clip.  you have now divided head into 4 sections
4. beginning in nape, on left side, take horizontal parting 1/4 to 1/2 inch (.6 - 1.25cm) from hairline, depending on density of hair.  creates 1st subsection
5. with client's head upright, comb subsection in natural fall from scalp to ends. with dominant hand, comb subsection again, stopping just above cutting line. make sure comb is horizontal and just above cutting line (desired length). cut subsection straight across against skin, remembering to keep your shears horizontal and parallel to floor. repeat on right-hand side, using length of first subsection as a guide. check to make sure your cutting line is straight before moving on. you have now created guideline for entire haircut
6. if hairline lies down nicely, alternative way of cutting a blunt line in nape is to comb down subsection and hold hair again skin with edge of your nondominant hand. cut guideline before your hand, making sure your shears are horizontal and parallel to floor
7. returning to let side, take another horizontal parting, creating a subsection same size as previous. general rule: see guide through the new subsection. if you cannot see guide, take a smaller subsection. comb hair down in natural fall, cut length to match guide. repeat on right side
8 continue working up back of head, alternating from left section to right, using 1/2 inch subsections
9. when in crown area (danger zone), pay close attention to natural fall of hair. comb hair into its natural falling position, and cut with little or no tension to match guide, you have now completed back of haircut
10. now move to sides of haircut. beginning on left side, take a horizontal parting and part off portion from back area to match. ensure that you maintain consistency with blunt line when connecting back to sides. take a subsection large enough to give even amount of hair at cutting line, allowing for protrusion of ear. comb hair from scalp to ends, release subsection, allow hair to hang in natural fall. using wide teeth, place comb back into the subsection just below ear. slide comb down to just above cutting line. holding comb parallel to floor, cut hair straight across just below comb, connecting line to back. repeat on right side
11. when working on right side (left if left-handed), your shears will be pointing toward back. maintain consistency in line, take smaller subsections, connecting at ear first, and gradually move forward with line until face reached
12. alternative way to approach right side (left if left-handed) is to turn wrist so that palm is facing upward and shears are pointing toward face. requires you position body slightly behind section, with your elbow dropped down. either method gives you consistent result in your line
13. before moving on, check both sides for evenness. stand behind client and check length on both sides while looking in mirror. make any adjustments needed
14. continue working up left side with horizontal partings, until all hair has been cut to match guide. when cutting hair that falls along face, make sure to comb hair so it lines on sides, not front, of face. repeat on right side
15. cross-check haircut using vertical sections, making sure not overdirecting hair. elevate hair slightly and cut off excess hair, removing only minimal amounts
16. sweep cut hair from floor and dispose properly
17. blow-dry haircut.  in order to get a true reading of haircut, it is best to perform a smooth blow-dry, with very little lift at scalp
18. once haircut is dry, have client stand. check line in mirror. time to clean up any hair at neckline and to check where hair falls when dry. use wide teeth comb to connect crown area. if section was left longer during haircut, now is the time to connect it into line
19. remove drape and neck strip from client and dispose properly
20. brush loose hair from client's neck and face. escort client to reception area

Cleanup and Sanitation
1. disinfect all shears, combs, and brushes used during haircut by immersing in a hospital-level disinfectant
2. sanitize workstation, making sure it is clean and neat for next client
3. wash hands with soap and warm water



TIP: density (thickness) of hair determine size of subsection.
- thicker the hair => narrower subsection
- thinner hair => wider subsection
- to create narrower subsections, partings need to be closer together
- create wider subsections, partings farther apart
- if too much hair in subsection, becomes difficult to control hair => hair is "pushed" away as you close shears, producing uneven line

TIP: using comb to control hair allows you to cut with very little tension.
- allows hair to do what it wants naturally and still maintain clean line

TIP: crown area called "danger zone" => irregular growth patterns most apparent
- crown particually problematic when dealing with blunt haircuts
- look at scalp to see natural growth pattern
- may leave this area out until very end of haircut, or cut it lightly longer than guideline
- once hair is dry, you can see where it falls, then match length to guideline
- another danger zone is around ears => ears not lie flat against head
- take special steps to keep a clean cutting line
- always work with very little tension, or no tension, around ears, unless you are working with shorter layers


Procedure  4 - Graduated Haircut


Implements & Materials / Preparation
- same for procedure 3 - blunt haircut

Procedure
1. part hair into 6 sections. begin with part from front hairline, just above middle of each eyebrow back to crown area and clip hair in place. establish another part from crown area where section 1 ends to back of each ear, forming side sections 2 and 3, clipping sections in place. part hair down centre of back to form sections 4 and 5. take a horizontal part from one ear to the other across nape area, about 1 inch (2.5cm) above hairline. this section 5 is your horizontal guide section.
2. establish guideline by first cutting centre of nape section to desired length. use horizontal cutting line parallel to fingers. cut right and left sides of nape section same length as centre guideline
3. working upward in left back section, measure and part off first horizontal section approximately 1 inch wide
4. beginning at centre part, establish vertical subsection approximately 1/2 inch (1.25cm) wide. extend subsection down to include nape guideline. comb subsection smooth at 45-degree angle to scalp. hold fingers at 90-degree angle to strand and cut
5. proceed to cut entire horizontal section by parting off vertical subsections and cutting same manner as step 4. check each section vertically and horizontally throughout haircut. each completed section will serve as guideline for next section
6. part off another horizontal section approximately 1 inch wide. beginning at centre, create another vertical subsection that extends down and includes previously cut strands. comb hair smoothly at 45-degree elevation to head. hold fingers and shears at 90-degree angle to subsection and cut. cut entire horizontal section in this manner.  make sure 2nd section blends evenly with previously cut section
7. continue taking horizontal sections throughout left and right back sections and follow same cutting procedure. hair will gradually become longer as it reaches apex. ie. if your nape guide was 2.5 inches (6.25cm), your upper crown section will be approximately 6 inches (15cm)
8. maintain length in upper crown by holding each vertical subsection throughout crown area at 90-degree angle while cutting. after checking back and crown for even blending, proceed to left side section
9. establish narrow guide section on left side at hairline approximately 1/2 inch wide. side guideline should be same length as nape. move to right side of head and establish matching guideline. this will help ensure both side section same length when right side section cut later
10. establish 1/2 inch side section that curves and follows hairline above ear back to nape section. smoothly comb section, including side guideline and part of nape section
11. holding hair with little or no tension, cut hair from nape guide to side guide. note fingers are held at slight angle to connect the 2 guides
12. establish horizontal section on left side. width of this section will vary because of irregular hairline around ear
13. starting at ear, part 1/2 inch vertical subsection. include underlying guideline and small portion of nape section
14. continue same cutting procedure followed thus far. take vertical subsections, comb smoothly, elevate at 45-degree angle from head, holding fingers at 90-degree angle to strand. cut section even with side guideline and nape section. be sure to hold vertical subsections straight out from head at 45-degrees, not pulled to right or left
15. continue establishing horizontal sections on left side of head and follow same cutting procedure. check each section horizontally to ensure ends evenly blended. add strands from back section when checking to ensure 2 sections are uniform in length
16. when left side section is complete, strands in uppermost part of section should be same length as those in upper crown area. in final 1 inch section, comb vertical subsections and hold them at 90-degree angle to head. position fingers at 90-degrees to strand and cut parallel to fingers. check completed section horizontally to make sure ends are even
17. move to right side of head and cut hair in same manner as left side, using previously established guide. once back and both sides are complete, move to fringe and top areas
18. create variety of fringe designs by cutting fringe length close to that of side guideline. create fringe guide section along hairline about 1/2 inch wide. starting at centre part and working on left side of forehead, cut to desired length
19. comb fringe section, including centre guide strand and a small portion of side area. connecting 2 guidelines determine angle of cut
20. cut fringe section at low elevation. check cut for evenness and accuracy
21. establish 1 inch section parallel to fringe guideline. beginning in centre, take narrow vertical subsections about 1/2 inch wide include underlying guideline. comb strand smoothly and elevate from head 45 degrees. continue cutting procedure throughout fringe area. fringe section should blend evenly with side section
22. cut remainder of fringe area on right side of head in same manner as left side
23. finish top section by taking 1/2 inch vertical subsections parallel to centre part. hold hair up from head at 90 degree angle. include hair from crown and fringe areas and cut to blend section with 2 precut sections. continue cutting until remainder of top section cut. hold hair up from head at 90 degrees and check completed cut. trim any uneven ends. fringe guide gradually increases in length to preestablished length in top and crown areas
24. blow-dry haircut and view design, movement, and evenly blended ends
25. follow cleanup and sanitation steps in procedure 3 - blunt haircut

Procedure 5 - Uniform Layered Haircut

Implements & Materials / Preparations
- same as procedure 3 - blunt haircut

Procedure
1. create guideline, take 2 partings 1/2 inch (1.25cm) apart, creating a section that runs from front hairline to bottom of nape
2. beginning at crown, comb section straight out from head, keeping fingers parallel to head form, and cut to desired length. continue working forward to front hairline, standing to the side of client
3. continue cutting guideline from crown to nape, rounding off any corners, making sure fingers are parallel to head form
4. maintain control and consistency while working through haircut, separate sides from back by parting hair from apex to back of ear. work through back areas first. parting pattern will be wedge-shaped, where each section begins at same point in crown and slightly wider at bottom of nape
5. work through right side first. take vertical parting that begins at crown and connects with guideline, creating vertical section that ends at hairline. keep sections small to maintain control. beginning at crown and using previously cut guideline, comb new section to guide, elevate hair straight out from head, with no overdirection. cut line by keeping fingers parallel to head and matching guideline
6. continue working with travelling guideline to back of ear. repeat on left side. when working on left side of back, shift body position so that tips of shears are pointing down and fingers holding section are pointing up. by shifting hand position, you control section, meaning you are reversing hand position used when you cut right side of back
7. cross-check entire back area. take horizontal sections and elevate hair at 90 degrees from head. while checking, see a line that runs parallel to shape of head
8. section off top area by taking a parting that begins at recession area and ends at crown, just above parietal ridge on both sides. clip sides out of way
9. cut top area using vertical partings, using previously cut centre section as guideline, connect to crown, holding each section straight up at 90 degrees from head form. do not overdirect hair
10. cross-check top, using horizontal partings and elevating hair 90 degrees from head form
11. now move to right side. work from back of ear toward face, using vertical sections, and connect to previous section at back of ear and top. comb hair straight out from head form at 90 degrees, removing any corners. repeat on left side, shifting body position so that tips of shears are pointing down and fingers holding section are pointing up.
12. cross-check side sections, using horizontal partings and combing hair straight out at 90 degrees
13. comb hair down. notice soft perimeter and rounded head shape
14. blow-dry haircut, using vent brush to encourage movement, and complete
15. follow cleanup and sanitation steps in procedure 3 - blunt haircut

Procedure 6 - Long Layered (180-Degree) Haircut

Implements & Materials / Preparations
- same for procedure 3 - blunt haircut

Procedure
1. part hair into 5 cutting sections
2. begin at top of crown taking 1/2 inch (1.25cm) subsection across head. comb straight up from head form and cut straight across
3. work to front of top section by taking 2nd 1/2 inch subsection. direct 1st subsection (guideline) to 2nd one and cut to same length
4. continue using previously cut subsection as guideline to cut new 1/2 inch subsection throughout top section
5. on left front section, using 1/2 inch horizontal subsections, comb hair straight up and match previously cut hair (guideline) in top section. continue working down side, using 1/2 inch subsections until hair no longer reaches guide
6. repeat on right side
7. at top of left rear section, using 1/2 inch horizontal subsections, comb hair straight up from head form, matching length to top section (guideline) and cut straight across
8. continue using 1/2 inch horizontal subsections and working from top to bottom until hair no longer reaches guideline
9. repeat on right side until hair no longer reaches guideline
10. blow-dry hair

Procedure 7 - Men's Basic Clipper Cut

Implements & Materials
- cutting cape
- neck strip
- haircutting comb
- barber comb
- haircutting shears
- clipper
- trimmer
- small-number guard attachment (optional)

Procedure
1. clean and dry hair
2. make horseshoe parting about 2 inches (5cm) below apex of head, beginning and ending at front hairline. comb hair above the part forward
3. staring at nape, place haircutting comb against scalp, teeth up. angle comb against scalp from 0 - 45 degrees, allowing for natural contour of head. cut hair that extends though teeth of comb
4. repeat step 3 as you move up back of head. blend lengths over curve of head by cross-cutting horizontally, from side to side. shape back centre area first, from nape to parietal ridge. still using clipper-over-comb technique, cut both sides of back from ear to ear
5. carefully blend lengths over curve of head by cross-cutting
6. using small number attachment on clipper, cut up each side from sideburn to parietal ridge. hair lengths will be very close to scalp. if client wants longer sides, weight on top should not overpower sides; it should blend. if sides are very short, top should be cut shorter to blend
7. measure distance between eyebrows and natural hairline to establish an appropriate guideline for length in crown area
8. cut narrow guideline at crown end of horseshoe parting. determine length by forehead measurement beginning at crown end, cut top area with clipper to exact length of initial crown guideline. as you move toward forehead, pull hair back toward guideline in order to increase length at forehead
9. using clipper and attachment, shorten and shape hair around ears and sideburns. continue to cut hair until shape of head and length of hair are in harmony. to blend or outline perimeter of haircut, use clipper or trimmer. shears-over-comb or clipper-over-comb technique, using front teeth of a barber comb, may also be used
10. follow cleanup and sanitation steps in procedure 3 - blunt haircut

Notes for Braiding & Braid Extensions

Braiding & Braid Extensions
- origins in Africa
-- reached peak of social and aesthetic significance, regarded as art form handed down from generation to generation
-- very time consuming, opportunity for women to socialize and form bonds of trust
- traditional cultures, different styles of braiding signified person's social status within community
-- more important person was, more elaborate braiding
- braiding patterns indicated woman's marital status
- braiding styles distinguished one's tribe, age, economic status, occupation, geographic location, or religious and social standing
- today braiding styles tell person's self-esteem and self-image
- braiding salons sprung up in urban US
-- practice Natural Hairstyling
--- no chemicals or tints
--- does not alter natural curl or coil pattern of hair
--- African-American heritage

Client Consultation
- some braiding styles takes hours/days to complete
- with proper care, braiding pattern last up to 3 months
- focus on client's needs and expectations
- build trust and confidence
-- makes client more expressive about self-image
- have a quiet spot to talk, take notes, and have pictures of styles on hand
- be friendly, warm, and listen
- fill out client card and update each time client returns
-- note scalp, hair problems, chemical history, and home-care products used

Hair Analysis
- during consultation, be aware of hair texture
1. diameter of hair: coarse, medium or fine
2. feel: oil, dry, hard, soft, smooth, coarse, wiry
3. wave pattern or coil configuration: straight, wavy, curly, or coiled

- curl is a very tight curl pattern
-- spiral in formation, lengthened or stretched, resembles series of loops
-- "textured hair" = hair with a tight coil pattern
- take note of hair's density and length, areas where air is thinner, damaged, or broken
-- certain braiding styles may be difficult to execute
- avoid direct tension on hairline or partings along hairline

Facial Shapes
- determine what best complements client's most attractive features
- first observe facial structure and distinct facial features
- understand and appreciate distinct characteristics of different ethnic groups

Flattering braid styles for facial types and features:
- Oval facial type: most braided styles
- Round facial type: add height to create illusion of thinness
-- updo braiding styles add length to face
-- asymmetrical styles that show ears create slenderizing look
-- braided styles with waves or full curls frame face and help create balance
- Square facial type: choose full styles framing face around forehead temples and jawline
-- illusion of length and soften facial lines
-- wisps of hair or a tapered fringe also help soften angular lines
- Diamond facial type: create styles full around forehead or jawline to help create more oval appearance
-- full bangs or partial bangs help counter narrow forehead
-- keep braids close to head along cheekbones
-- avoid updo styles and styles that move away from cheeks or hairline
- Triangular (pear-shaped) facial type: soft fringes around forehead camouflages small forehead
-- styles that frame cheekbones, close to ears, or go behind ears reduces wide chin line
- Inverted triangle (heart-shaped) facial type: minimize width of forehead by styling with partial bangs or wisps of hair and/or braids that frame face
-- add fullness around chin
- Oblong facial type: create full styles make face appear shorter or wider
-- fullness must not be overpowering
-- soft, partial bangs or wisps of curls along face softens facial lines
-- braids should be kept to a medium length
-- avoid middle parts => add length to long narrow face

FYI: "natural" or "virgin" => hair with no previous colouring/lightening treatments, chemicals, or physical abuse
- styles used includes braid extensions, twists (2 strands overlapped to form a "candy cane" effect), weaving, wrapping, and locks (African locks or dreadlocks)
- for African-Americans, these styles are proud acknowledgement of their cultural heritage

Understanding Basics

Braiding Tools
- Boar-Bristle Brush (natural hairbrush):
-- best for stimulating scalp & removing dirt & lint
-- Nylon-bristle brushes => not as durable (may snag hair)
-- soft nylon brushes may be option for fine, soft hair around hairline
- Square Paddle Brush:
-- good for short textured hair and long straight hair
-- flexible, antistatic rubber bristles bend and release tangles, knots, and snarls
- Vent Brush:
-- has single or double row of teeth
--- useful, when used gently, to remove tangles on wet wavy or dry curly hair
-- excellent also on human hair extensions
- Wide-Tooth Comb:
-- available in variety of shapes and designs
-- ply through hair with little snarling
-- teeth width from medium to large, have long rounded tips to avoid scratching scalp
-- distance between teeth more important feature of this comb
-- larger spacing allows textured hair to move between rows of teeth with ease
- Tail Comb:
-- excellent for design parting, sectioning large segments of hair, and opening and removing braids
- Double-Tooth Comb:
-- excellent on wet, curly hair
-- designed to minimize tangling and snarling
- Finishing Comb:
-- usually 8 to 10 inches in length
-- used while cutting
-- works well on fine or straight hair
- Cutting Comb:
-- cutting small sections
-- used only after hair is softened and elongated with blow-dryer
- Pick with Rounded Teeth:
-- useful for lifting and separating textured hair
-- has long and widely-spaced teeth
-- commonly made of metal, plastic, wood, or ivory
- Blow-Dryer with Pick Nozzle:
-- loosen curl pattern in textured hair for braiding styles
-- dries, stretches, and softens textured hair
-- use hard plastic pick nozzle => metal becomes too hot
- Diffuser:
-- dries hair without disturbing finished look and without removing moisture
- Five-Inch Scissors:
-- create shape and finished look
-- trimming fringes and excess extension material
- Long Clips:
-- for separating hair into large sections
- Butterfly & Small Clips:
-- for separating hair into small or large sections
- Hood Dryer:
-- used to remove excess moisture before blow-drying hair
-- eliminates excessive use of blow-drying and reduces direct heat on hair

Implements & Materials for Extensions:
- Extension Materials:
-- Kanekalon
-- nylon synthetic
-- rayon synthetic
-- human hair
-- yarn
-- lin
-- yak
- Hackle:
-- a board of fine, upright nails through which human hair extensions are combed
-- used for detangling or blending colours and highlights
- Drawing Board:
-- flat leather pads with very close and fine teeth that sandwich human hair extensions
-- pads are weighted down with books and required amount of hair is extracted without loosening and disturbing rest of hair during process of braiding

Materials for Extensions
- new products: buy in small quantities and test fibre on a mannequin before using on client
- Human Hair:
-- standard against which we compare all hair products
-- most imported from Asia but little known how it was produced or processed
-- there are disreputable dealers and wholesalers who misrepresent their product
-- prepackaged human hair less expensive than hair customized by wholesaler
-- if no wholesaler, consider mail order
- Kanekalon:
-- manufactured synthetic fibre of excellent quality
-- texture similar to extremely curly or coiled hair types
-- does not reflect light => less shine
-- comes in variety of colours, versatile, and easy to match with natural hair colours
-- durable, soft, and less inclined to tangle than other synthetics
-- holds up to shampooing and styling
-- cost more than other synthetics => better quality product
-- feels smooth to both client's scalp and your fingers
-- will not cut or damage natural hair as less expensive products might
- Nylon or Rayon Synthetic:
-- less expensive than kanekalon
-- available in varying qualities
-- reflects light => very shiny
-- known to cut or break hair
-- repeated shampooing less durable
-- melt in high heat
- Yarn:
-- cotton or nylon blend
-- inexpensive & easy to find
-- expand when shampooing
-- not slip from base
-- durable for braids
-- light, soft, detangles easily
-- does not reflect any light => matte finish
-- available in many colours, most common black or brown
-- some that appear jet black may show blue or green tint in natural light
- Lin:
-- woll fibre imported from Africa
-- matte finish
-- black or brown
-- often used for Senegalese twists and "corkscrew" braid styles generally not shampooed
-- comes in a roll and used in any length and size
-- very flammable
- Yak:
-- strong fibre from domestic ox in mountains of Tibet and Central Asia
-- shaved and processed to use alone or blended with human hair
-- small mixture of yak with human hair removes manufactured shine

Working with Wet or Dry Hair
- best to braid hair when dry
-- allow hair to fall naturally, without tension
-- after shampoo, towel-blot without rubbing, using several towels if necessary
-- apply leave-in conditioner => combing hair easier
-- begin combing at the ends and gently work out tangles, moving upward toward scalp
--- use wide-tooth comb
-- blow-dry hair
-- long straight hair can be slightly dampened with spray bottle to keep layered or split ends in place
--- pomades, gels, or lotions can be used to hold hair in place for finished look
- when hair braided wet, shrinks and recoils as it dries
-- creates excess pulling and tension
-- hair dries tightly around braid => breakage or hair loss from pulling or twisting
- if using style requiring wet hair while being manipulated, must allow for shrinkage
- textured hair very fragile both wet and dry
- blow-drying most effective way to prepare hair for braiding service
-- quickly dries hair
-- softens hair
-- more manageable for combing and sectioning
-- loosens and elongates wave pattern while stretching hair shaft length
-- great for short hair => easier manipulation of hair

Braiding the Hair
- braiding styles classified as: visible and invisible
- Visible Braid:
-- 3-strand braid employing underhand technique
-- strands of hair woven under centre strand
- Invisible Braid (Inverted Braid)
-- 3-strand braid produced by overlapping strands of hair on top of each other

Invisible Braid
- overhand pick-up technique
- done on scalp or off the scalp
- with or without extensions
- ideal for long hair
- can be successful on hair that is layered
-- must dampen slightly and gelled (to hold shorter strands in place)

Rope Braid
- 2 strands twisted around each other
- hair all one length or long layered hair
- remember to add to both sides before you twist the right side over left

Fishtail Braid
- 2-strand braid in which hair is picked up from the sides and added to the strands as they cross over each other
- best on dry, nonlayered hair at least shoulder length

Single Braids
- single braids, box braids, individual braids all refer to free-hanging braids, with or without extensions
- executed underhand or overhand stitch
- all hair textures in variety of ways
- ie. 2 or 3 single braids added to ponytail or chignon => lovely evening look
- partings or subsections for single braids can be square, triangular or rectangular
-- determines where braid is placed and how it moves
- single braid move in any direction
-- braid in the direction you want them to go
- extensions for single braids come in wide range of sizes and lengths and are integrated into natural hair using 3-strand underhand technique
- fibre for extensions can be selected from synthetic hair, yarn, or human hair
-- selection vital in determining finished style
-- braiding must be consistent and close together
- consultation step: open package of extension fibres and show to client to verify correct colour
- remove fibre from package and cut to desired length
- place half the extension fibres in bottom portion of drawing board and sandwich" them with upper portion of board
- to secure air extensions, place heavy object on top of board (a large book)
-- allows easy extraction of appropriate amount of fibres for the braids
- hair extensions can also be separated and dispensed by free-hand method

Cornrows (Canerows)
- narrow rows of visible braids that lie close to scalp
- 3-strand, on-the-scalp braid technique
- consistent and even partings
- use mannequin to practice, develop speed, accuracy, finger and wrist dexterity
- on various hair lengths and textures
- long straight hair => large cornrows are fashionable and elegant
- flat contoured styles lat several weeks when applied without extensions, and up to 2 months with extensions

Cornrows with Extensions (Feed-in Method)
- braid is build up strand by strand
- excess amounts of extension material can place too much weight on fragile areas of hairline and will tighten and pull hair to leave an unrealistic finished look
- apply proper tension using feed-in method => eliminate artificial look and prevent breakage
- traditional cornrow => flat, natural, contoured to scalp
-- parting important s it defines finished style
- feed-in method creates tapered or narrow base at hairline
- small pieces or strips of extension hair are added to fill in base, bringing adjoining braids closer together
-- this technique takes longer to perform than traditional cornrowing
-- cornrow achieved by feed-in method last longer, look more natural, will not place excessive tension on hairline
- pick up hair at base, the hair directly underneath previous revolution must be incorporated into braid
- hair you pick up must never come from another panel or be extended up into the braid from a lower part of the braid
- overextending or misplacing beginning of extension leaves hair exposed and unsupported
-- lead to breakage and hair loss in area (true at hairline)
- if extension is not made secure by 2 or 3 revolutions before picking up => shift away from point of entry

Locks (Dreadlocks)
- natural textured hair intertwined and meshed together to form a single or separate network of hair
- without chemicals
- hair locks in several slow phases
- 6 months to a year depending on length, density and coil pattern of hair
- cultural expression
- double twisting, wrapping with cord, coiling, braiding, simply not combing or brushing lock
- Rastafarians of Jamaica, leaving hair on its own natural course will cause it to lock
- cultivated African locks have symmetry and balance

3 basic methods of locking are as follows:
1. The comb technique
- effective during early stages of locking wile coil is still open
- place comb at base of scalp, with rotating motion spiraling hair into a curl
- with each revolution, comb moves down until end of hair shaft
- offers tight coil and excellent on short (1-3 inch) hair

2. Palm Roll
- gentlest on hair, guides it through all natural stages of locking
- takes advantage of hair's natural ability to coil
- apply gel to dampened subsections, placing portion of hair between palms of both hands, and rolling in clockwise or counterclockwise direction
- with each revolution, as you move down the coil shaft, entire coil is formed
- partings: directional, horizontal, vertical, or bricklayered
- decorative designs and sculpting patterns are some of the creative options you can choose

3. Braids or Extensions
- sectioning hair for desired size lock and single braiding the hair to end
- synthetic hair fibre, human hair fibre, or yarn can be added to single braid to form a lock
- after several weeks, braid will grow away from scalp
- palm roll method can be used on new growth to form a lock

The Developmental Phases of Locks
Phase 1 - Prelock Stage
- hair is soft and coiled inot spiral configurations
- coil is smooth and end is open
- coil has shiny or glossy texture

Phase 2 - Sprouting Stage
- hair begins to interlace and mesh
- separate units begin to "puff up" and expand in size
- units no longer glossy or smooth

Phase 3 - Growing Stage
- bulb can be felt at end of each lock
- interlacing continues
- hair begins to regain length
- lock may still be frizzy, but also solid in some areas
- locks are closed at ends, dense and dull, not reflecting any light

Phase 4 - Maturation Stage
- lock is totally closed at teh end
- hair is tightly meshed, giving the hair a rope-like cylinder shape, except where there is new growth at base

Phase 5 - Atrophy Stage
- after several years of maturation, the lock may start to weaken or come apart at the ends

Procedure 20 - Preparing Textured Hair for Braiding

Implements & Materials
- shampoo cape
- neck strip
- towels
- shampoo
- conditioner (protein or moisturizing)
- tail comb with large rounded teeth
- detangling solution (4 parts water to 1 part cream rinsed or oil) in spray bottle
- butterfly clips
- blow-drying cream or lotion with oil or glycerine base

Preparation
1. wash your hands
2. perform a client consultation and hair and scalp analysis
3. drape client for shampoo. If necessary, comb and detangle hair
4. shampoo, rinse, apply conditioner, and rinse thoroughly
5. gently towel-dry hair

Procedure
1. Part damp hair from ear to ear across crown. Use butterfly clips to separate front section from back section
2. Part back of head into 4-6 sections. For thick textured hair, make more sections to allow for increase ease and control.  For thinner hair, use fewer sections.  Front of half of head, where the hair is less dense, can be sectioned into 3 or more sections.  Separate sections with clips
3. Beginning on left section in back, start combing ends of hair first, working way up to base of scalp. Lightly spray section as you go along with detangling solution as needed. The combing movement should be fast and rhythmic, but not so much as to create tension on scalp. It is better to use a picking motion to comb through hair.
4. Once hair thoroughly combed, divide section into 2 equal parts and twist them to the end to hold section in place
5. Repeat steps 4 and 5 with the other sections of hair until entire head is sectioned
6. Place client under a medium heat hood dryer for 5-10 minutes to remove excess moisture
7. Open one of the combed sections. Using fingers, apply blow-drying cream to hair from scalp to ends
8. Using pick nozzle attachment on blow-dryer, hold hair down and away from client's head as you begin drying. Use a comb-out motion with pick, always pointing nozzle away from client.  As the ends relax and stretch, work blow-dryer with heat blowing downward, toward scalp. Blowing directly into scalp can cause a burn.  Hair is now ready to braid

Procedure 21 - Invisible Braid

Implements & Materials
- styling cape
- neck strip
- rubber band or fabric-covered elastic
- tail comb

Parparation
- shampoo and condition client's hair, then comb and blow-dry
- if client shampooed at home, brush hair with paddle brush

Procedure
1. At crown of head, take triangle section of hair and place it in your left hand.  Divide section in 3 equal strands
2. Place your fingers close to scalp for tight stitch.  For looser stitch, move away from scalp.  Cross right strand over the centre strand
3. Cross left strand over centre section and place it in your right hand
4. Place all 3 strands in your left hand with your fingers separating strands
5. With your right hand, pick up 1 inch (2.5cm) section of hair on right side.  Add to right strand in your left hand
6. Take combined strands in your right hand and cross them over the centre strand.  Place all strands in your right hand
7. With your left hand, pick up 1 inch section on left side.  Add this section to left outer strand in your right hand
8. Take combined strands and cross them over centre strand.  Place all 3 sections in your left hand.  Pick up on right side, and add to outer strand
9. Move down head with alternating pick-up movements.  Remember that the outer strands are added to and then crossed over the centre.  Continue these movements until braid is complete.  Secure braid with rubber band, then with ribbon or other accessory for a finished style

Cleanup & Sanitation
1. disinfect all implements
2. place capes and towels in hamper for laundering
3. sanitize your workstation
4. wash hands with soap and warm water

Procedure 22 - Rope Braid

Implements & Material / Preparation
- Same as procedure 21 - invisible braid

Procedure
1. Take a triangular section of hair from front.  If client has fringe, begin behind fringe
2. Divide section into 2 equal strands. Cross right strand over left strand
3. Place both stands in your right hand with your index finger in between and your palm facing upward
4. Twist left strand 2 times clockwise (toward centre)
5. Pick up a 1 inch (2.5cm) section from left side. Add this section to left strand
6. Put both strands in left hand with index finger in between and palm up
7. Pick up a 1 inch section from right side and add to right strand
8. Put both strands in right hand with index finger in between, your palm up
9. Hand twist toward left (counterclockwise) until palm is facing down
10. Repeat steps 3-9, working toward nape until style is done. Secure with rubber band
11. When you run out of sections to pick up, another option is to create a rope ponytail with remaining hair.  Twist left strand clockwise 2 or 3 times. Place strands in your right hand, index finger in between and palm up. Twist palm down (counterclockwise), right strand over left. Repeat until end of hair.  Secure ends with rubber band
12. Follow cleanup and sanitation procedures for procedure 21 - invisible braid

Procedure 23 - Fishtail Braid

Implements & Materials / Preparation
- same as procedure 21 - invisible braid

Procedure
1. Take triangular section from front.  If client has fringe, begin behind fringe.  Divide section into 2 strands
2. Cross right strand over left strand. Place both strands in right hand
3. Pick up a 1 inch (2.5cm) section on left side. Cross this section over left strand and add to right strand
4. Put both strands in left hand, index finger in between and palm up
5. Pick up a 1 inch section on right side. Cross section over right strand and add to left strand. You have now completed "X" shape
6. Put both strands in right hand, as in step 2
7. Repeat steps 3-6, moving hand down toward nape with each new section picked up.  When you run out of sections, secure hair with rubber band
8. Follow cleanup and sanitation procedures for procedure 21 - invisible braid

Procedure 24 - Single Braids without Extensions

Implements & Materials
- same as procedure 21 - invisible braid
- light essential oil
- butterfly clips
- small rubber bands (optional)
- oil sheen
- bobby pins

Procedure
1. Divide hair in half by parting from ear to ear across crown. Clip away front section
2. Based on style client selected, determine size and direction of base of braid
3. Par a diagonal section in back of head about 1 inch (2.5cm) wide, taking into account texture and length of client's hair
4. Divide section into 3 even strands. Place fingers close to base. Cross left strand under centre strand then cross right strand under
5. Pass outer strands under centre strands, moving down braid to end
6. Move to next section. Repeat braiding movement by passing the alternating outside strands under centre strand.  Keep an even tension on all strands
7. Repeat braiding procedure until back is completed. Repeat in front section
8. Try build up speed and accuracy to create straight and even braids. Rubber bands are optional to finish each braid
9. Follow cleanup and sanitation procedures for procedure 21 - invisible braid

Procedure 25 - Single Braids with Extensions

Implements & Materials
- same as procedure 24 - single braid
- extension fibres
- drawing board (optional)

Preparation
1. Shampoo, comb, and blow-dry client's hair
2. Prepare extension fibres

Procedure
1. Part hair across crown from ear to ear. Clip away front section
2. Part diagonal section in back of head at about 45-degree angle, from ear to nape of neck.  For a medium-size braid, this section can be from 1/4 inch (.6cm) to 1 inch (2.5cm) wide, depending on texture and length of client's hair
3. Using vertical parts to separate base in subsections, create a diamond-shaped base
4. Select appropriate amount of extension fibres.  It should always be proportional to section being applied.  For tapered end, gently pull extension fibres at both side so that ends are uneven.  Fold fibres in half.
5. divide natural hair into 3 equal sections.  Place folded extension on top of natural hair, on outside and centre portions of braid
6. Once extension is in place, begin underhand braiding movement.  Remember the outer strand should cross under centre strand.  Each time you pass an outer strand under centre strand, bring centre strand over tightly so that outside strand stays securely in centre.  As you move down braid, keep your fingers close to stitch, so braid remains tight and straight
7. Braid to desired length
8. Next section should be above previous section on a diagonal part, moving toward ear.  After several sections completed, alternate diagonal partings so V-shape pattern forms in back of head
9. Once back finished, create diagonal or horizontal parting above ear in front.  As you get closer to hairline, be aware of amount of extension hair that is applied to hairline. Do not add excessive amounts of fibre into fragile hairline.  Fibre should always be proportionate to hair to which it is being applied
10. After entire head braided, remove all lose hair ends from braid shaft with scissors
11. Finish ends by spraying water to activate wave in human hair extensions
12. Follow cleanup and sanitation procedures for procedure 21 - invisible braid

Procedure 26 - Basic Cornrows

Implements & Materials / Preparation
- same as procedure 24 - single braids

Procedure
1. Depending on style selected, determine correct size and direction of cornrow base.  With your tail comb, part hair into 2 inch (5cm) sections and apply a light essential oil to scalp.  Massage oil throughout scalp and hair
2. To create panel, start by taking 2 even partings to form neat row for cornrow base. With tail comb, part hair into a panel, using butterfly clips to keep other hair pinned to either side
3. Divide panel into 3 even strands. To ensure consistency throughout braid, make sure strands are same size.  Place your fingers close to base.  Cross left strand under centre strand
4. Cross right strand under centre strand. Passing outer strands under centre strand creates underhand cornrow braid
5. With each crossing under, or revolution, pick up from base of panel a new strand of equal size and add it to the outer strand before crossing it under centre strand
6. As you move along braid panel, pick up a strand from scalp with each revolution and add to the outer strand before crossing it under alternating side of braid on which you pickup hair
7. As new strands are added, braid will become fuller. Braid to end
8. Simply braiding to ends can finish cornrow; small rubber bands can be used to hold ends in place. Other optional finishes, such as singeing, are considered advanced methods and require special training
9. Braid next panel in same direction and manner.  Keep partings clean and even
10. Repeat until all hair is braided. Apply oil sheen for finished look
11. Follow cleanup and sanitation procedures for procedure 21 - invisible braid

Procedure 27 - Cornrows with Extensions

Implements & Materials / Preparation
- same as procedure 25 - single braids with extensions

Procedure
1. With tail comb, part hair into 2 inch (5cm) sections and apply light esential oil to scalp.  Massage oil throughout scalp and hair
2. Starting at hairline, part off a cornrow base in desired direction.  No extension is added at the starting point.  If hair extension is required because of a thinning hairline, apply minute amounts, as small as 5-10 strands. Divide natural hair into 3 equal strands
3. With first revolution, cross outer strand under centre strand
4. On 2nd revolution, right strand crosses under centre strand.  Pick up small portion of natural hair and add it to the outer strand during revolution
5. After few revolutions and pick-ups of natural hair, introduce small amounts of extension fibre, perhaps 10-20 fibres.  to avoid bulk or knots, amount of extension should be proportionately less than size of base.  Fold fibres in middle and tuck the point in between 2 adjoining strands of natural hair. The folded fibres will form 2 portions, which are added to centre and outer strands before next pick-up and revolution. Do not forget to continue picking up natural hair with each revolution in order to execute cornrow
6. Repeat until all hair is braided
7. Follow cleanup and sanitation procedures for procedure 21 - invisible braid

TIP: always trim any ends that may stick up through braid.  Holding scissors flat, move up shaft as you trim, making sure you avoid cutting into braid