Notes for Wigs & Hair Enhancements

Wigs & Hair Enhancements
- ancient Egyptians shaved their heads with bronze razors and wore heavy black wigs to protect them from the sun
- ancient Rome, women wore wigs made from prized blond hair of captured barbarians from the north
- Japan, lacquered coiffures of the geishas were wigs
- 18th-century England, men wore wigs, called perukes => indicate they were in the army, navy, or engaged in the practice of law
- specialists in hair additions and enhancements are increasingly in demand, working in runway and hair shows, on print and video shoots

TIP: Always share styling tips with client, a great way to build client trust and loyality

The Consultation
- offer degree of protection to both you and client
- make client realize results are bounded by reality
- wig can be large financial and emotional investment for client
- understand client's motivation in seeking wig service
- conduct consultation with compassionate feeling language
- point of consultation is to cut through doubts and fears with genuine communication

Key Point Checklist

1. Determine Need & Desire
- use as fashion accessory
- special event: wedding, prom, etc.
- glamour
- disguise thinning hair or hair loss due to illness
- film work, TV, theatre, fashion shows, photo shoot

2. Match style with Client
- determine personality type
-- introvert: play it safe, enhance natural beauty
-- extrovert: bold, adventurous, packs a punch
- client's age
- client's personal image
-- corporate
-- trendy
-- classic
-- country
-- glamourous
-- cute
-- athletic
- client's job or career

3. Find Right Balance
- study client's bone structure and body type
-- step back and take big picture look
-- classic proportions: ration of head size to body 1:7
-- adding hair NOT overwhelm client unless theatrical
- when adding hair, best to consult in client's street clothes

4. Work with Client's Hair Type
- determine hair texture
-- blend artificial hair with natural hair
- aware of natural hairlines and growth patterns
-- influence choice of wig, hairpiece, or extenions
- natural condition of hair determines how much real hair to show or cover up
- check hair density
-- full head of hair and want alternative look
-- hair thinning and patchy

5. Select Appropriate Hair Addition
- among hair addition options
wigs:
-- human or synthetic
-- custom-made
-- ready to wear
hair extnsions:
-- temporary
-- clip-in
-- semipermanent
hairpieces:
-- falls
-- ponytails
-- switches
-- wiglets
-- braids
-- ponytail wraps
-- toupees
- is addition temporary or permanent?
-- maintain look through salon services or home maintenance?
-- how long will client wear wig?
-- are serious health issue involved that might determine length of time wig will be worn?
- environmental factors

-- humidity
-- exposure
-- example: suggest synthetic hairpiece for client in Florida => won't frizz in high humidity
--- client need to smooth own hair down with gel
- use sample colour ring to identify correct colour match for client
- have various product photos and brochures for client to make selection
-- good to keep samples for client to see and feel
- will wig or hairpiece need to be custom cut or coloured?

6. Budgetary Concerns:
- client's budget
- use catalogues and price lists, educate client on features and benefits of various price points (high, medium, low)
- establish salon service fees for custom cutting, colouring and styling of hair additions

7. Other Available Creative Options. Do not neglect to call your client's attention to the following services you can provide:
- custom cutting
- colour, perming, setting, and styling of wigs, hairpieces, and extensions
- a styling maintenance program that will educate client in use of styling products

TIPS: Retailing hair additions and home-care products = substantial additional income for you
- make cue care for yourself listing key points to discuss with client
- identify client's needs
- explain why it would be worth it for client to make investment
- describe features and benefits of products you recommend
- discus product performance and cost
- always believe in your recommendations and stand by your products

Wigs
- artificial covering for head consisting of a network of interwoven hair
- client's hair is completely concealed
- Hairpiece: small wig, not fully cover head, usually covers top or crown of head

Human Hair verses Synthetic Hair
- fastest way to determine strand is real or synthetic
-- burn hair strand with match
-- human hair burn slowly, giving off distinctive odour
-- synthetic strand of fibre will "ball up" and melt, extinguishing itself (a characteristic of synthetic like kanekalon), or continue to flame and burn out very quickly (typical of polyester)
--- not give off odour

Advantages of Human Hair Wigs
- more realistic appearance
- greater durability
- same styling and maintenance requirements as natural hair
-- can be custom coloured
-- can be permed
-- tolerates heat from blow-dryer, curling iron, or hot rollers

Disadvantages of Human Hair Wigs
- human hair reacts of climate like natural hair
-- depending on hair type, may frizz, or lose curl in humid weather
- after shampooing, hair needs to be reset
-- challenge for home maintenance
- colour will oxidize => fade with exposure to light
- hair will break and split just like human hair if mistreated by harsh brushing, back-combing, or excessive use of heat

Advantages of Synthetic Wigs
- over the years, technology of producing synthetic fibres greatly improved
-- wigs from modacrylic are strong and durable
-- top-of-the-line synthetics like kanekalon, a modacrylic fibre, simulate protein-rich hair, with natural lustrous look and feel
-- so realistic can fool stylists
- great value
-- both style and texture are set in hair
-- ready-to-wear wigs are very easy for client to maintain at home
-- shampooing in cold water NOT change style nor exposure to extreme humidity
- most synthetic ready-to-wear wigs are cut according to latest styles
-- cut, colour, texture already set
-- only work as a stylist is some detailing or custom trimming
- colours almost unlimited
-- natural to wild fantasy
-- cheaper wigs tend to be solid in colour (less tone on tone) and fibre coarser (polyester-based)
-- high-end are mix of many shades, with highlights and lowlights for natural effect
- synthetic colours will not fade or oxidize, even when exposed to long periods in sun


Drawbacks of Synthetic Wigs
- cannot be exposed to extreme heat
-- curling irons, hot rollers, or high heat or blow-dryers
- colouring synthetic fibres not recommended, as traditional haircolour does not work on them
- sometimes synthetic wigs are so shiny that they may not look natural
- if they are thick, may look unnatural on fine-haired client
-- price connected to how natural a synthetic wig can look

TIP: when working with synthetic wig, pick shape or style that suits client rather than changing wig itself


Quality and Cost
- you get what you pay for
- success determined by quality of product itself
- don't be fooled by imitations
- cheap wigs great for "fun moments" or practice cutting on
-- other situations look tacky and unattractive
- most expensive wigs are human hair:
-- European Hair:
--- top-of-line
--- virgin hair most costly
--- colour-treated hair second in cost
-- India & Asia Hair:
--- provide more of human hair commercially
--- Indian hair usually available 12" - 16"
--- Asian hair available 12" - 28"
--- Indian hair naturally wavy
--- Asian hair naturally straight
-- Human Hair Mixed with Animal Hair:
--- angora, horse, yak, or sheep
--- yak hair taken from animal's belly and is purest of whites
---- natural colour lends itself to adding fantasy colours => attracts teen market
--- mixed-hair products often used in theatrical or fashion settings

Questions to ask when selecting wig for client:
- is wig human hair, animal hair, mix of both, or synthetic?
- is hair coloured or in natural state (virgin hair)?
- human hair: is it graded in terms of strength, elasticity, and porosity?
- is cuticle intact?
-- cuticle intact is more expensive, as hair has been "turned"
-- Turned Hair: root ends are arranged to prevent hair from tangling
--- root end of every hair strand is sewn into base so that cuticles of all hair strands slope in same direction
--- hair in better condition and easier to work with
--- turning is a tedious, time-consuming process that increases cost of hair
- is the hair Fallen Hair?
-- hair has been shed from head, perhaps gathered from hairbrush
-- not turned roots to ends
-- cuticle is removed => will not lock and mat
-- less expensive
- is hair tangle-free?
-- if cuticle removed => cannot condition hair, for it will tend to mat
- what is the condition of hair?  has it been bleached?  can it be coloured?  has it been coloured with metallic dye?
- will hair match client's hair? should you be blending to match?
- can the hair be permed?
- if client doing home maintenance, will wig last a reasonable time (4-6 months if continual use)?

Types of Wigs
- Cap Wigs:
-- constructed with elasticized mesh-fibre base to which hair is attached
-- made of several sizes, require special fittings
-- usually hand-knotted
-- front edge is made of material resembling client's scalp, along with lace extension and wire support, used at temples for a snug, secure fit
-- hair is hand-tied under net ("underknotted") to conceal cap edge
-- side and back edges contain wire supports, elastic, and hooks for secure fit
-- best for client with extremely thin or no hair
- Capless Wig:
-- machine made
-- hair (human or artificial) woven into long strips called Wefts
--- sewn to elastic strips in circular pattern to fit head shape
-- more popular today: ready-to-wear and less expensive
-- frame of connected wefts => open points
-- due to construction and airiness, extremely light and comfortable to wear
-- allows scalp to breath and are healthier
-- bald client scalp will show through

Methods of Construction
- Hand-Tied or Hand-Knotted Wigs:
-- made by inserting individual strands of hair into mesh foundation and knotting with a neeedle
-- done around front hairline and top of head
-- have natural, realistic look and are wonderful for styling
-- most closely resembles actual human hair growth, with flexibility at roots
-- no definite direction to hair
-- can be combed in almost any direction
-- most versatile of all patterns
- Semi-Hand-Tied Wigs:
-- constructed with a combination of synthetic hair and hand-tied human hair
-- reasonably priced
-- offer natural appearance and good durability
- Machine-Made Wigs:
-- least expensive option
-- made by feeding wefts through sewing machine then sewn together to form base and shape of wig
-- disadvantage of wefting direction => restricts other styling options
-- some hairstylist overcreative and cut it to point of no return
-- "bounce back" quality, even after shampoo style returns
-- no versatility
- be aware of artificial growth patterns of wig
- wig construction determines style


Taking Wig Measurements
- custom-made wigs begin with client's measurements
- use soft tape measure, keeping close to head without pressure
- always keep written record of head measurements and forward copy to wig dealer or manufacturer
- include precise specifications of:
-- hair shade
-- quality of hair
-- length of hair
-- type of hair part and pattern
- if ready-to-wear wig, no measuring required
-- adjusted by tightening straps or elastic in nape
-- most common in salons, because of price difference
- every wig needs to be adjusted ot head and custom styled or trimmed to suit client


Blocking the Wig
- Block:
-- head-shape form
-- usually made of canvas-covered cork or Styrofoam, wig is secured for fitting, cleaning, colouring, and styling
-- available in 6 sizes => 20 inches (50cm) to 22 1/2 inches (56.25cm)
-- best attached to your work area with swivel clamp => greater control
- always fit wig to right size block
- when mounting wig on block, pin evenly with T-shaped pins at these points:
-- temples (use seams of block as guide)
-- above each ear
-- each corner of nape

Putting on Wig
- most important step: instructing client how to put on wig
- start by educating client on correct method for preparing hair to receive wig
- client's skill at securing hair under wig cap and making it flat and even, determine how well wig sits on head
- 2 methods:
-- hair wrap
-- pin curls

Cleaning Wig
- always follow manufacturer's instructions
- if shampoo recommended, use gentle shampoo (used for colour-treated hair)
- avoid sulphur based => dandruff shampoos

Cutting Wig
- goal: to make hair look more realistic
- hair on human head has many lengths
- hair that is 1 month old and years old all exist on same head
- taper ends when cutting wig
- more sold the shape => more unnatural hair will look
- when cutting and trimming wigs
-- blunt, layered, and graduated
-- using same sectioning and elevations as on real head of hair
-- many top stylist cut free-form on dry hair
- wig placed on  block for cutting, but comb-out and finishing done on client's head
- Free-Form cutting moves from longer to shorter lengths
-- always working towards weight
-- vertical sections create lightness
-- diagonal sections create rounder beveled edge
-- horizontal sections build heavier weight
-- usually done on dry hair => shows you how hair will fall
- use this visual approach:
-- begin by cutting small section and observe how hair falls
-- next step based on how hair responds
-- draw diagram of silhouette or have a photo image for reference

Styling Wig
- most hair you work with s chemically treated => handle gently:
- when using heat on human hair, always set styling tool on low
- treat hair gently and kindly (no pulling)
- traditionally, brushes made with natural boar-bristles regarded best for human hair
-- soft bristles far preferable to sharp-edge synthetic bristles that can damage hair
- today, many synthetic brushes have smooth, rounded plastic teeth more like a comb, excellent and economical choices
-- key with any brush or comb is to be gentle => hair can easily damage
- choose styling products formulated for colour-treated hair
-- work the best and kinder to human hair
-- remember: whatever you put into hair will have to be shampooed out
- use block for all colouring, perming, setting, and basic cut outlining
- on client's head: combing-out and finishing touches for most contemporary cuts
-- achieve proper balance and personalization
- most client come into salon for natural look
- areas that must appear most convincing:
-- crown
-- the part
-- hairline
- general rule: follow direction of knotting and weave, as preset by wig maker

Tips:
- wet cutting method: more controlled and technical
- dry cutting method: freer and more abstract => more realistic

Styling Tips for Hairline
- back-comb gently around hairline
-- fluffy effect softens hairline
- release client's hair around hairline, cut and blend it into wig hair
- Wind Test: best test to gauge realistic looking wig
-- simulates wind blowing hair off face
-- gently blow around client's face with blow-dryer set to cool and low, observe hairline
-- if realistic, point out results to client
- when styling wig, do not make it look perfect
-- use hands rather than brush for natural look
-- don't plaster hair down
- never loose sight of big picture
-- experienced stylist works with total person, not just head
-- when done, step back and ask client to stand up and walk around so you can check for balance, proportion and make corrections accordingly


Colouring Wigs & Extensions
- all synthetic haircolours wigs and hairpieces are standardized: 70 colours on haircolour ring 
- range from black to palest blonde
- most commercially available hair from India or China
-- natural colour level is 0 or black
-- very difficult to lift level 0 to 10
- yak hair excellent base to add fantasy colours appealing to youth market
- to custom-colour hair, use hair that has been decolourized (bleached) through lifting process, NOT with metallic dyes
-- check with manufacturer
- first learn rules before you break any
- good colourist NOT afraid to make mistakes because they can correct them
- principles that guide colouring natural hair same for wigs and extensions
- first, check if cuticle intact
-- absent cuticle hair is very porous and react to colour in extreme manner
-- always strand test hair prior to full colour application
-- use semipermanent, demipermanent, glaze, rinse, or colour mousse products
- use permanent haircolour on human hair wigs, unless hair is porous => then semipermanent better choice
- colouring human hair wig or hairpiece: conduct regular colour checks every 5 - 10 minutes
-- hair comes from many different heads => unpredictable
- easier to colour client's hair to match wig than other way around

Perming Wig
- need to know how the wig hair is coloured
- was it decolourized (bleached) or dyed with metallic dye?
-- do NOT perm hair coloured with metallic dye
- permanent wave performed off client's head
- cover head form with plastic to protect from chemical solutions, pin wig securely to head form, perm as you would a normal head of hair

CAUTION: do NOT use oxidizing haircolour or haircolour with peroxide on hair treated with metallic hair dye
- hair will swell and smoke, appearing to be boiling from inside out

Hairpieces
- gives 20 - 70 % coverage
- sits on top of client's hair and usually attached by temporary methods
- many wig companies have ready-to-wear, low-maintenace hairpieces
-- introduction to world of wigs or good retail item in salon
- some easily blended into long hair or short hair
- some add natural-looking height or volume
- some add length
- placed anywhere on head
- temporary attachment methods:
-- interlocking combs
-- flexible wire combs
-- elastic
-- claw clips
-- Velcro
- one versatile hairpiece: hair wefts wrapped around elastic and resemble cloth scrunchie
- some hairpieces constructed on weft base and attached with flexible comb that attaches around font and nape
- Integration Hairpiece: attached by semipermanent method
- client's hair prepared before hairpiece attached
-- tied into ponytail or bun or twisted into French twist
-- blended with hairpiece or serve as base for it


Integration Hairpiece
- has opening in base through which client's own hair is pulled to blend
- very lightweight, natural-looking adding length and volume
- good alternative to hair extensions
- recommended for clients with thinning hair but not for total hair loss => scalp may show through

Toupees
- men typical customers but woman can also wear
- small wig used to cover top and crown of head
- fine net base most appropriate for severe hair loss
- 2 ways to attach toupees:
1. temporary (tape or clips)
2. semipermanent (weaving, tracks, adhesive, or sewing)
- wearers prize the confidence gained and prepare to pay high price
- best toupees are custom designed
- top manufacturers offer in-depth instructions


Fashion Hairpieces
- great salon product for special occasions as fashion accessories (bridal business)
- vary in size and constructed on stiff net base
- attached on temporary basis with hairpins, clips, comb, bobby pins, or elastic
1. wraparound ponytail is a long length of wefted hair that covers 10-20% of head
-- used as simple ponytail or in chignons
2. cascade of curls attached with combs
3. hair wrap mounted on an elastic loop, further secured with hairpins

- for natural look, blend client's hair with hairpiece
- must match up both colour and wave pattern
- use colour ring to match colour
- cannot colour hairpiece

Hair Extensions
- hair additions that are secured on base of client's hair
-- add length, volume, texture, or colour
- greater blending of real and artificial hair than hairpieces
- left in hair must longer
- manufacturers offer training in attachment
- general guidelines:
-- decide if adding length, thickness, or both
-- know final style, map out desired style
-- stay 1 inch (2.5cm) away from hairline at front, sides, and nape and 1 inch away from part
-- with very thin hair, careful that base not show through
-- curly hair tend to expand and give illusion of being thicker
--- are you matching curl or adding another curl pattern?
-- straight thin hair and curly thin hair may have similar density but curly appear thicker
--- may not need as many extensions in curly

Track & Sew Attachment Method
- hair extensions are secured at base of client's own hair by sewing
- hair attached to an on-the-scalp braid or cornrow, serving as track
- angle of track => how hair will fall
-- position track horizontally, vertically, or diagonally, or along curved lines that follow contours of head
- partings determined by style
- size of sections determined by amount of hair that will be added to head
- plan tracks so ends of braids hidden
-- best to put tracks 1 inch (2.5cm) behind hairline for proper coverage
- when sewing extension onto track, use only blunt, custom-designed needle, straight or curved
-- avoid damage to hair and protect you and client
- Lock Stitch:
-- cut length of thread double length of weft
-- pass needle through weft to connect it to track
-- pull thread through to create loop
-- pass needle through loop and wrap thread around needle
-- pull loop tight to fom a lock stitch to ecure ends of weft to track
-- may be used over entire length of track in even spaced stitches
- Double-Lock Stitch:
-- much like lock stitch but thread wound around needle twice
-- used same way as lock stitch
- Overcast Stictch:
-- used to secure entire length of weft to track
-- pass needle under both track and weft
-- bring back over to make new stitch
-- repeat stitch until end reached
-- complete with lock stitch for security

Bonding Method
- attaching hair wefts or single strands with an adhesive or glue gun
-- special tool created specifically for bonding
- bonded hair sits snugly on head and is fast to apply
- certain degree of slippage
- lasts 2-4 weeks, depending on:
-- frequency of shampooing
-- oiliness or dryness of scalp
-- quality of products used
- clients need to be on maintenance program requiring salon visits every 2 weeks
- advantage of bonding: client can gently shampoo hair with wefts in
- affordable price
- time to complete service: 10-20 minutes depending on experience
- begins by sectioning off hair at the nape
- measure first weft against parting, 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch (.6 - 1.25cm) from hairline
- lay weft on flat surface and apply consistent amount of adhesive along base
- lightly press weft against clean parting
- hold for approximately 20 seconds
- to test, gently tug
- may use blow-dryer, set on low - medium to seal bond
- proceed to next section, working upwards until desired length & volume achieved
- avoid working too close to crown or parting => weft show through
- work 1 inch (2.5cm) away from hairline
- bonded wefts removed by dissolving adhesive bond with oil or bond remover

CAUTION: some clients may have allergic reaction to ingredients in bonding adhesive.
- always perform patch test prior to application of bonded extensions

Fusion Method
- extension hair is bonded with bonding material activated by heat from special tool
- expensive, harmonizes with client's natural hair with no uncomfortable or unattractive attachment sites
- bonds light and comfortable to wear
- hair moves like real hair
- easy to maintain
- lasts up to 4 months (almost twice as long as other methods)
- removal quick and painless
- requires certification training
- may be best choice for clients with find, limp hair
- involves wrapping keratin-based strip around both client's hair and extension
- heat element applied until bonding agent softened and bond is rolled between fingers until both natural and added hair have adhered

Procedure 28 - Taking Wig Measurements

Implements & Materials
- styling cape
- neck strip
- boar-bristle brush
- duckbill clips
- cloth measuring tape

Preparation
1. client consultation
2. drape client for dry hair service, with styling cape and neck strip
3. brush hair down smoothly and pin it as flatly and tightly to scalp as possible

Procedure
1. Measure circumference of head. Place tape completely around head, starting at hairline at middle of forehead. Place tape above ears, around back of head, and return to starting point.
2. Beginning from hairline at the middle of forehead, measure over top of nape of neck. Bend head back and measure to point where wig will ride on base of skull at nape.
3. Measure from ear to ear, across forhead.
4. Measure from ear to ear, over top of head.
5. Place tape across crown and measure from temple to temple.
6. Measure width of napeline, across nape of neck.

Cleanup & Sanitation
1. disinfect all implements and store in appropriate containers
2. discard neck strip and place cape in hamper for laundering
3. sanitize your workstation
4. wash your hands with soap and warm water


Procedure 29 - Putting on Wig


Implements & Materials
- styling cape and neck strip
- comb
- hairpins
- bobby pins
- wig cap
- wig

Preparation
1. client consultation
2. drape client for a dry hair service with styling cape and neck strip

Procedure for Pin Curls
1. brush hair smooth
2. take large sections of hair and wrap them into flat pin curls, keeping base of each pin curl as flat and smooth as possible


Procedure for Hair Wrap
1. section off a large triangular section at crown and pin this hair out of way
2. taking small sections, brush client's hair all around head, as if setting hair on a big roller (head as roller)
3. pin hair in place. Pull a wig cap over hair if desired

Procedure for Putting on Wig
1. holding front of wig against forehead with one hand, use your other hand to gently slide wig back onto head
2. hold edge in front of ears and pull it down, making sure wig is sitting straight
3. if wig loose, tighten by adjusting elastic and hooks at nape. May have to tighten it off head and then refit it on the client
4. if client has long or thick hair, may need some extra pins to lock wig deeper into place, s client's hair could push wig up.  For clients with thin or short hair, additional pinning is not usually necessary
5. follow cleanup and sanitation for procedure 28