Braiding & Braid Extensions
- origins in Africa
-- reached peak of social and aesthetic significance, regarded as art form handed down from generation to generation
-- very time consuming, opportunity for women to socialize and form bonds of trust
- traditional cultures, different styles of braiding signified person's social status within community
-- more important person was, more elaborate braiding
- braiding patterns indicated woman's marital status
- braiding styles distinguished one's tribe, age, economic status, occupation, geographic location, or religious and social standing
- today braiding styles tell person's self-esteem and self-image
- braiding salons sprung up in urban US
-- practice Natural Hairstyling
--- no chemicals or tints
--- does not alter natural curl or coil pattern of hair
--- African-American heritage
Client Consultation
- some braiding styles takes hours/days to complete
- with proper care, braiding pattern last up to 3 months
- focus on client's needs and expectations
- build trust and confidence
-- makes client more expressive about self-image
- have a quiet spot to talk, take notes, and have pictures of styles on hand
- be friendly, warm, and listen
- fill out client card and update each time client returns
-- note scalp, hair problems, chemical history, and home-care products used
Hair Analysis
- during consultation, be aware of hair texture
1. diameter of hair: coarse, medium or fine
2. feel: oil, dry, hard, soft, smooth, coarse, wiry
3. wave pattern or coil configuration: straight, wavy, curly, or coiled
- curl is a very tight curl pattern
-- spiral in formation, lengthened or stretched, resembles series of loops
-- "textured hair" = hair with a tight coil pattern
- take note of hair's density and length, areas where air is thinner, damaged, or broken
-- certain braiding styles may be difficult to execute
- avoid direct tension on hairline or partings along hairline
Facial Shapes
- determine what best complements client's most attractive features
- first observe facial structure and distinct facial features
- understand and appreciate distinct characteristics of different ethnic groups
Flattering braid styles for facial types and features:
- Oval facial type: most braided styles
- Round facial type: add height to create illusion of thinness
-- updo braiding styles add length to face
-- asymmetrical styles that show ears create slenderizing look
-- braided styles with waves or full curls frame face and help create balance
- Square facial type: choose full styles framing face around forehead temples and jawline
-- illusion of length and soften facial lines
-- wisps of hair or a tapered fringe also help soften angular lines
- Diamond facial type: create styles full around forehead or jawline to help create more oval appearance
-- full bangs or partial bangs help counter narrow forehead
-- keep braids close to head along cheekbones
-- avoid updo styles and styles that move away from cheeks or hairline
- Triangular (pear-shaped) facial type: soft fringes around forehead camouflages small forehead
-- styles that frame cheekbones, close to ears, or go behind ears reduces wide chin line
- Inverted triangle (heart-shaped) facial type: minimize width of forehead by styling with partial bangs or wisps of hair and/or braids that frame face
-- add fullness around chin
- Oblong facial type: create full styles make face appear shorter or wider
-- fullness must not be overpowering
-- soft, partial bangs or wisps of curls along face softens facial lines
-- braids should be kept to a medium length
-- avoid middle parts => add length to long narrow face
FYI: "natural" or "virgin" => hair with no previous colouring/lightening treatments, chemicals, or physical abuse
- styles used includes braid extensions, twists (2 strands overlapped to form a "candy cane" effect), weaving, wrapping, and locks (African locks or dreadlocks)
- for African-Americans, these styles are proud acknowledgement of their cultural heritage
Understanding Basics
Braiding Tools
- Boar-Bristle Brush (natural hairbrush):
-- best for stimulating scalp & removing dirt & lint
-- Nylon-bristle brushes => not as durable (may snag hair)
-- soft nylon brushes may be option for fine, soft hair around hairline
- Square Paddle Brush:
-- good for short textured hair and long straight hair
-- flexible, antistatic rubber bristles bend and release tangles, knots, and snarls
- Vent Brush:
-- has single or double row of teeth
--- useful, when used gently, to remove tangles on wet wavy or dry curly hair
-- excellent also on human hair extensions
- Wide-Tooth Comb:
-- available in variety of shapes and designs
-- ply through hair with little snarling
-- teeth width from medium to large, have long rounded tips to avoid scratching scalp
-- distance between teeth more important feature of this comb
-- larger spacing allows textured hair to move between rows of teeth with ease
- Tail Comb:
-- excellent for design parting, sectioning large segments of hair, and opening and removing braids
- Double-Tooth Comb:
-- excellent on wet, curly hair
-- designed to minimize tangling and snarling
- Finishing Comb:
-- usually 8 to 10 inches in length
-- used while cutting
-- works well on fine or straight hair
- Cutting Comb:
-- cutting small sections
-- used only after hair is softened and elongated with blow-dryer
- Pick with Rounded Teeth:
-- useful for lifting and separating textured hair
-- has long and widely-spaced teeth
-- commonly made of metal, plastic, wood, or ivory
- Blow-Dryer with Pick Nozzle:
-- loosen curl pattern in textured hair for braiding styles
-- dries, stretches, and softens textured hair
-- use hard plastic pick nozzle => metal becomes too hot
- Diffuser:
-- dries hair without disturbing finished look and without removing moisture
- Five-Inch Scissors:
-- create shape and finished look
-- trimming fringes and excess extension material
- Long Clips:
-- for separating hair into large sections
- Butterfly & Small Clips:
-- for separating hair into small or large sections
- Hood Dryer:
-- used to remove excess moisture before blow-drying hair
-- eliminates excessive use of blow-drying and reduces direct heat on hair
Implements & Materials for Extensions:
- Extension Materials:
-- Kanekalon
-- nylon synthetic
-- rayon synthetic
-- human hair
-- yarn
-- lin
-- yak
- Hackle:
-- a board of fine, upright nails through which human hair extensions are combed
-- used for detangling or blending colours and highlights
- Drawing Board:
-- flat leather pads with very close and fine teeth that sandwich human hair extensions
-- pads are weighted down with books and required amount of hair is extracted without loosening and disturbing rest of hair during process of braiding
Materials for Extensions
- new products: buy in small quantities and test fibre on a mannequin before using on client
- Human Hair:
-- standard against which we compare all hair products
-- most imported from Asia but little known how it was produced or processed
-- there are disreputable dealers and wholesalers who misrepresent their product
-- prepackaged human hair less expensive than hair customized by wholesaler
-- if no wholesaler, consider mail order
- Kanekalon:
-- manufactured synthetic fibre of excellent quality
-- texture similar to extremely curly or coiled hair types
-- does not reflect light => less shine
-- comes in variety of colours, versatile, and easy to match with natural hair colours
-- durable, soft, and less inclined to tangle than other synthetics
-- holds up to shampooing and styling
-- cost more than other synthetics => better quality product
-- feels smooth to both client's scalp and your fingers
-- will not cut or damage natural hair as less expensive products might
- Nylon or Rayon Synthetic:
-- less expensive than kanekalon
-- available in varying qualities
-- reflects light => very shiny
-- known to cut or break hair
-- repeated shampooing less durable
-- melt in high heat
- Yarn:
-- cotton or nylon blend
-- inexpensive & easy to find
-- expand when shampooing
-- not slip from base
-- durable for braids
-- light, soft, detangles easily
-- does not reflect any light => matte finish
-- available in many colours, most common black or brown
-- some that appear jet black may show blue or green tint in natural light
- Lin:
-- woll fibre imported from Africa
-- matte finish
-- black or brown
-- often used for Senegalese twists and "corkscrew" braid styles generally not shampooed
-- comes in a roll and used in any length and size
-- very flammable
- Yak:
-- strong fibre from domestic ox in mountains of Tibet and Central Asia
-- shaved and processed to use alone or blended with human hair
-- small mixture of yak with human hair removes manufactured shine
Working with Wet or Dry Hair
- best to braid hair when dry
-- allow hair to fall naturally, without tension
-- after shampoo, towel-blot without rubbing, using several towels if necessary
-- apply leave-in conditioner => combing hair easier
-- begin combing at the ends and gently work out tangles, moving upward toward scalp
--- use wide-tooth comb
-- blow-dry hair
-- long straight hair can be slightly dampened with spray bottle to keep layered or split ends in place
--- pomades, gels, or lotions can be used to hold hair in place for finished look
- when hair braided wet, shrinks and recoils as it dries
-- creates excess pulling and tension
-- hair dries tightly around braid => breakage or hair loss from pulling or twisting
- if using style requiring wet hair while being manipulated, must allow for shrinkage
- textured hair very fragile both wet and dry
- blow-drying most effective way to prepare hair for braiding service
-- quickly dries hair
-- softens hair
-- more manageable for combing and sectioning
-- loosens and elongates wave pattern while stretching hair shaft length
-- great for short hair => easier manipulation of hair
Braiding the Hair
- braiding styles classified as: visible and invisible
- Visible Braid:
-- 3-strand braid employing underhand technique
-- strands of hair woven under centre strand
- Invisible Braid (Inverted Braid)
-- 3-strand braid produced by overlapping strands of hair on top of each other
Invisible Braid
- overhand pick-up technique
- done on scalp or off the scalp
- with or without extensions
- ideal for long hair
- can be successful on hair that is layered
-- must dampen slightly and gelled (to hold shorter strands in place)
Rope Braid
- 2 strands twisted around each other
- hair all one length or long layered hair
- remember to add to both sides before you twist the right side over left
Fishtail Braid
- 2-strand braid in which hair is picked up from the sides and added to the strands as they cross over each other
- best on dry, nonlayered hair at least shoulder length
Single Braids
- single braids, box braids, individual braids all refer to free-hanging braids, with or without extensions
- executed underhand or overhand stitch
- all hair textures in variety of ways
- ie. 2 or 3 single braids added to ponytail or chignon => lovely evening look
- partings or subsections for single braids can be square, triangular or rectangular
-- determines where braid is placed and how it moves
- single braid move in any direction
-- braid in the direction you want them to go
- extensions for single braids come in wide range of sizes and lengths and are integrated into natural hair using 3-strand underhand technique
- fibre for extensions can be selected from synthetic hair, yarn, or human hair
-- selection vital in determining finished style
-- braiding must be consistent and close together
- consultation step: open package of extension fibres and show to client to verify correct colour
- remove fibre from package and cut to desired length
- place half the extension fibres in bottom portion of drawing board and sandwich" them with upper portion of board
- to secure air extensions, place heavy object on top of board (a large book)
-- allows easy extraction of appropriate amount of fibres for the braids
- hair extensions can also be separated and dispensed by free-hand method
Cornrows (Canerows)
- narrow rows of visible braids that lie close to scalp
- 3-strand, on-the-scalp braid technique
- consistent and even partings
- use mannequin to practice, develop speed, accuracy, finger and wrist dexterity
- on various hair lengths and textures
- long straight hair => large cornrows are fashionable and elegant
- flat contoured styles lat several weeks when applied without extensions, and up to 2 months with extensions
Cornrows with Extensions (Feed-in Method)
- braid is build up strand by strand
- excess amounts of extension material can place too much weight on fragile areas of hairline and will tighten and pull hair to leave an unrealistic finished look
- apply proper tension using feed-in method => eliminate artificial look and prevent breakage
- traditional cornrow => flat, natural, contoured to scalp
-- parting important s it defines finished style
- feed-in method creates tapered or narrow base at hairline
- small pieces or strips of extension hair are added to fill in base, bringing adjoining braids closer together
-- this technique takes longer to perform than traditional cornrowing
-- cornrow achieved by feed-in method last longer, look more natural, will not place excessive tension on hairline
- pick up hair at base, the hair directly underneath previous revolution must be incorporated into braid
- hair you pick up must never come from another panel or be extended up into the braid from a lower part of the braid
- overextending or misplacing beginning of extension leaves hair exposed and unsupported
-- lead to breakage and hair loss in area (true at hairline)
- if extension is not made secure by 2 or 3 revolutions before picking up => shift away from point of entry
Locks (Dreadlocks)
- natural textured hair intertwined and meshed together to form a single or separate network of hair
- without chemicals
- hair locks in several slow phases
- 6 months to a year depending on length, density and coil pattern of hair
- cultural expression
- double twisting, wrapping with cord, coiling, braiding, simply not combing or brushing lock
- Rastafarians of Jamaica, leaving hair on its own natural course will cause it to lock
- cultivated African locks have symmetry and balance
3 basic methods of locking are as follows:
1. The comb technique
- effective during early stages of locking wile coil is still open
- place comb at base of scalp, with rotating motion spiraling hair into a curl
- with each revolution, comb moves down until end of hair shaft
- offers tight coil and excellent on short (1-3 inch) hair
2. Palm Roll
- gentlest on hair, guides it through all natural stages of locking
- takes advantage of hair's natural ability to coil
- apply gel to dampened subsections, placing portion of hair between palms of both hands, and rolling in clockwise or counterclockwise direction
- with each revolution, as you move down the coil shaft, entire coil is formed
- partings: directional, horizontal, vertical, or bricklayered
- decorative designs and sculpting patterns are some of the creative options you can choose
3. Braids or Extensions
- sectioning hair for desired size lock and single braiding the hair to end
- synthetic hair fibre, human hair fibre, or yarn can be added to single braid to form a lock
- after several weeks, braid will grow away from scalp
- palm roll method can be used on new growth to form a lock
The Developmental Phases of Locks
Phase 1 - Prelock Stage
- hair is soft and coiled inot spiral configurations
- coil is smooth and end is open
- coil has shiny or glossy texture
Phase 2 - Sprouting Stage
- hair begins to interlace and mesh
- separate units begin to "puff up" and expand in size
- units no longer glossy or smooth
Phase 3 - Growing Stage
- bulb can be felt at end of each lock
- interlacing continues
- hair begins to regain length
- lock may still be frizzy, but also solid in some areas
- locks are closed at ends, dense and dull, not reflecting any light
Phase 4 - Maturation Stage
- lock is totally closed at teh end
- hair is tightly meshed, giving the hair a rope-like cylinder shape, except where there is new growth at base
Phase 5 - Atrophy Stage
- after several years of maturation, the lock may start to weaken or come apart at the ends
Procedure 20 - Preparing Textured Hair for Braiding
Implements & Materials
- shampoo cape
- neck strip
- towels
- shampoo
- conditioner (protein or moisturizing)
- tail comb with large rounded teeth
- detangling solution (4 parts water to 1 part cream rinsed or oil) in spray bottle
- butterfly clips
- blow-drying cream or lotion with oil or glycerine base
Preparation
1. wash your hands
2. perform a client consultation and hair and scalp analysis
3. drape client for shampoo. If necessary, comb and detangle hair
4. shampoo, rinse, apply conditioner, and rinse thoroughly
5. gently towel-dry hair
Procedure
1. Part damp hair from ear to ear across crown. Use butterfly clips to separate front section from back section
2. Part back of head into 4-6 sections. For thick textured hair, make more sections to allow for increase ease and control. For thinner hair, use fewer sections. Front of half of head, where the hair is less dense, can be sectioned into 3 or more sections. Separate sections with clips
3. Beginning on left section in back, start combing ends of hair first, working way up to base of scalp. Lightly spray section as you go along with detangling solution as needed. The combing movement should be fast and rhythmic, but not so much as to create tension on scalp. It is better to use a picking motion to comb through hair.
4. Once hair thoroughly combed, divide section into 2 equal parts and twist them to the end to hold section in place
5. Repeat steps 4 and 5 with the other sections of hair until entire head is sectioned
6. Place client under a medium heat hood dryer for 5-10 minutes to remove excess moisture
7. Open one of the combed sections. Using fingers, apply blow-drying cream to hair from scalp to ends
8. Using pick nozzle attachment on blow-dryer, hold hair down and away from client's head as you begin drying. Use a comb-out motion with pick, always pointing nozzle away from client. As the ends relax and stretch, work blow-dryer with heat blowing downward, toward scalp. Blowing directly into scalp can cause a burn. Hair is now ready to braid
Procedure 21 - Invisible Braid
Implements & Materials
- styling cape
- neck strip
- rubber band or fabric-covered elastic
- tail comb
Parparation
- shampoo and condition client's hair, then comb and blow-dry
- if client shampooed at home, brush hair with paddle brush
Procedure
1. At crown of head, take triangle section of hair and place it in your left hand. Divide section in 3 equal strands
2. Place your fingers close to scalp for tight stitch. For looser stitch, move away from scalp. Cross right strand over the centre strand
3. Cross left strand over centre section and place it in your right hand
4. Place all 3 strands in your left hand with your fingers separating strands
5. With your right hand, pick up 1 inch (2.5cm) section of hair on right side. Add to right strand in your left hand
6. Take combined strands in your right hand and cross them over the centre strand. Place all strands in your right hand
7. With your left hand, pick up 1 inch section on left side. Add this section to left outer strand in your right hand
8. Take combined strands and cross them over centre strand. Place all 3 sections in your left hand. Pick up on right side, and add to outer strand
9. Move down head with alternating pick-up movements. Remember that the outer strands are added to and then crossed over the centre. Continue these movements until braid is complete. Secure braid with rubber band, then with ribbon or other accessory for a finished style
Cleanup & Sanitation
1. disinfect all implements
2. place capes and towels in hamper for laundering
3. sanitize your workstation
4. wash hands with soap and warm water
Procedure 22 - Rope Braid
Implements & Material / Preparation
- Same as procedure 21 - invisible braid
Procedure
1. Take a triangular section of hair from front. If client has fringe, begin behind fringe
2. Divide section into 2 equal strands. Cross right strand over left strand
3. Place both stands in your right hand with your index finger in between and your palm facing upward
4. Twist left strand 2 times clockwise (toward centre)
5. Pick up a 1 inch (2.5cm) section from left side. Add this section to left strand
6. Put both strands in left hand with index finger in between and palm up
7. Pick up a 1 inch section from right side and add to right strand
8. Put both strands in right hand with index finger in between, your palm up
9. Hand twist toward left (counterclockwise) until palm is facing down
10. Repeat steps 3-9, working toward nape until style is done. Secure with rubber band
11. When you run out of sections to pick up, another option is to create a rope ponytail with remaining hair. Twist left strand clockwise 2 or 3 times. Place strands in your right hand, index finger in between and palm up. Twist palm down (counterclockwise), right strand over left. Repeat until end of hair. Secure ends with rubber band
12. Follow cleanup and sanitation procedures for procedure 21 - invisible braid
Procedure 23 - Fishtail Braid
Implements & Materials / Preparation
- same as procedure 21 - invisible braid
Procedure
1. Take triangular section from front. If client has fringe, begin behind fringe. Divide section into 2 strands
2. Cross right strand over left strand. Place both strands in right hand
3. Pick up a 1 inch (2.5cm) section on left side. Cross this section over left strand and add to right strand
4. Put both strands in left hand, index finger in between and palm up
5. Pick up a 1 inch section on right side. Cross section over right strand and add to left strand. You have now completed "X" shape
6. Put both strands in right hand, as in step 2
7. Repeat steps 3-6, moving hand down toward nape with each new section picked up. When you run out of sections, secure hair with rubber band
8. Follow cleanup and sanitation procedures for procedure 21 - invisible braid
Procedure 24 - Single Braids without Extensions
Implements & Materials
- same as procedure 21 - invisible braid
- light essential oil
- butterfly clips
- small rubber bands (optional)
- oil sheen
- bobby pins
Procedure
1. Divide hair in half by parting from ear to ear across crown. Clip away front section
2. Based on style client selected, determine size and direction of base of braid
3. Par a diagonal section in back of head about 1 inch (2.5cm) wide, taking into account texture and length of client's hair
4. Divide section into 3 even strands. Place fingers close to base. Cross left strand under centre strand then cross right strand under
5. Pass outer strands under centre strands, moving down braid to end
6. Move to next section. Repeat braiding movement by passing the alternating outside strands under centre strand. Keep an even tension on all strands
7. Repeat braiding procedure until back is completed. Repeat in front section
8. Try build up speed and accuracy to create straight and even braids. Rubber bands are optional to finish each braid
9. Follow cleanup and sanitation procedures for procedure 21 - invisible braid
Procedure 25 - Single Braids with Extensions
Implements & Materials
- same as procedure 24 - single braid
- extension fibres
- drawing board (optional)
Preparation
1. Shampoo, comb, and blow-dry client's hair
2. Prepare extension fibres
Procedure
1. Part hair across crown from ear to ear. Clip away front section
2. Part diagonal section in back of head at about 45-degree angle, from ear to nape of neck. For a medium-size braid, this section can be from 1/4 inch (.6cm) to 1 inch (2.5cm) wide, depending on texture and length of client's hair
3. Using vertical parts to separate base in subsections, create a diamond-shaped base
4. Select appropriate amount of extension fibres. It should always be proportional to section being applied. For tapered end, gently pull extension fibres at both side so that ends are uneven. Fold fibres in half.
5. divide natural hair into 3 equal sections. Place folded extension on top of natural hair, on outside and centre portions of braid
6. Once extension is in place, begin underhand braiding movement. Remember the outer strand should cross under centre strand. Each time you pass an outer strand under centre strand, bring centre strand over tightly so that outside strand stays securely in centre. As you move down braid, keep your fingers close to stitch, so braid remains tight and straight
7. Braid to desired length
8. Next section should be above previous section on a diagonal part, moving toward ear. After several sections completed, alternate diagonal partings so V-shape pattern forms in back of head
9. Once back finished, create diagonal or horizontal parting above ear in front. As you get closer to hairline, be aware of amount of extension hair that is applied to hairline. Do not add excessive amounts of fibre into fragile hairline. Fibre should always be proportionate to hair to which it is being applied
10. After entire head braided, remove all lose hair ends from braid shaft with scissors
11. Finish ends by spraying water to activate wave in human hair extensions
12. Follow cleanup and sanitation procedures for procedure 21 - invisible braid
Procedure 26 - Basic Cornrows
Implements & Materials / Preparation
- same as procedure 24 - single braids
Procedure
1. Depending on style selected, determine correct size and direction of cornrow base. With your tail comb, part hair into 2 inch (5cm) sections and apply a light essential oil to scalp. Massage oil throughout scalp and hair
2. To create panel, start by taking 2 even partings to form neat row for cornrow base. With tail comb, part hair into a panel, using butterfly clips to keep other hair pinned to either side
3. Divide panel into 3 even strands. To ensure consistency throughout braid, make sure strands are same size. Place your fingers close to base. Cross left strand under centre strand
4. Cross right strand under centre strand. Passing outer strands under centre strand creates underhand cornrow braid
5. With each crossing under, or revolution, pick up from base of panel a new strand of equal size and add it to the outer strand before crossing it under centre strand
6. As you move along braid panel, pick up a strand from scalp with each revolution and add to the outer strand before crossing it under alternating side of braid on which you pickup hair
7. As new strands are added, braid will become fuller. Braid to end
8. Simply braiding to ends can finish cornrow; small rubber bands can be used to hold ends in place. Other optional finishes, such as singeing, are considered advanced methods and require special training
9. Braid next panel in same direction and manner. Keep partings clean and even
10. Repeat until all hair is braided. Apply oil sheen for finished look
11. Follow cleanup and sanitation procedures for procedure 21 - invisible braid
Procedure 27 - Cornrows with Extensions
Implements & Materials / Preparation
- same as procedure 25 - single braids with extensions
Procedure
1. With tail comb, part hair into 2 inch (5cm) sections and apply light esential oil to scalp. Massage oil throughout scalp and hair
2. Starting at hairline, part off a cornrow base in desired direction. No extension is added at the starting point. If hair extension is required because of a thinning hairline, apply minute amounts, as small as 5-10 strands. Divide natural hair into 3 equal strands
3. With first revolution, cross outer strand under centre strand
4. On 2nd revolution, right strand crosses under centre strand. Pick up small portion of natural hair and add it to the outer strand during revolution
5. After few revolutions and pick-ups of natural hair, introduce small amounts of extension fibre, perhaps 10-20 fibres. to avoid bulk or knots, amount of extension should be proportionately less than size of base. Fold fibres in middle and tuck the point in between 2 adjoining strands of natural hair. The folded fibres will form 2 portions, which are added to centre and outer strands before next pick-up and revolution. Do not forget to continue picking up natural hair with each revolution in order to execute cornrow
6. Repeat until all hair is braided
7. Follow cleanup and sanitation procedures for procedure 21 - invisible braid
TIP: always trim any ends that may stick up through braid. Holding scissors flat, move up shaft as you trim, making sure you avoid cutting into braid
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