Notes for Principles of Hair Design

Principles of Hair Design
- goal: design appropriate hairstyle for client
- analyzing entire person, using elements and principles of design with understanding of how they can enhance your client's positive features and minimize negative features

Philosophy of Design
- good designer always visualizes finished product before beginning project
- first step in creative process: inspiration
-- newspaper, TV, radio, faces on bus, food, furniture, toys, etc
-- nature: ocean waves, shapes and colours of flowers, leaf, star
-- past, fashion pages of magazines
- decide which applications and tools needed to achieve your design
-- cutting shears, Velcro rollers, permanent wave, haircolour, etc.
- good practice when working on a design to practice on a mannequin head
- develop strong visual understanding of which hairstyles work best on which face shapes and body types
-- best teacher is time and the trial and error that comes with experience
- learning rules (foundation) is imperative
-- allows you to take calculated risks
- don't be "cookie cutter" hairdresser
-- explore new possibilities, catering to each client's individual needs and lifestyle
-- styling rut: "the box"
- designers are always growing and learning


Elements of Hair Design
- 5 basic elements of hair design: form, space, line, colour, and wave pattern

Form
- outline of overall hairstyle as seen from all angles
- 3-dimensional and changes as it is viewed from different angles
- silhouette is typically the aspect of overall design that client will react to first
- use forms that are simple and pleasing to the eye
- should be proportion to shape of head and face, length and width of neck and shoulder line

Space (Volume)
- area that hairstyle occupies
- area inside the form
- 3-dimensional and has length, width, and depth
- may contain curls, curves, waves, straight hair, or combination

Line
- eye follows lines in a design
- create form, design, and movement of hairstyle
- straight or curved
1. Horizontal lines are parallel
- extending in same direction
- maintaining constant distance apart
-- to floor or horizon
- creates width in hair design
-- eyes follows line from center out to ends
2. Vertical lines
- straight up and down
- make hairstyle appear longer and narrower as eye follows lines up and down
3. Diagonal lines
- positioned between horizontal and vertical lines
- emphasize or minimize facial features
- create interest in hair design
4. Curved lines
- soften a design
- large or small
- full or part of a circle
- placed horizontally, vertically, or diagonally
- curved lines repeating in opposite directions create a wave

Designing with Lines
- 4 kinds of hairstyles can be developed based on type of lines you choose
1. Single-line hairstyles
- best for minimum care when styling hair
- one-length hairstyle
2. Repeating lines
- parallel lines in hairstyle
- straight or curved
- creates more intrest in design
- finger wave - curved repeating lines
3. Contrasting lines
- horizontal and vertical lines that meet at 90-degree angle
- create hard edge
- reserved for personality that carry off strong look
4. Transitional lines
- curved lines used to blend or soften horizontal or vertical lines

Colour
- visually and psychologically play important role in hair design
- used to make design appear larger or smaller
- create textures and lines and can tie design elements together
- lighter colour => youthful & exciting
- darker colour => seductive & mysterious
- warm colours => soft
- cooler colours => bold & dramatic

Creating Dimension with Colour
- light and warm colours create illusion of volume
- dark & cool colours recede or move in toward head
-- create illusion of less  volume
- colours that are warm & cool alternate with light & dark
-- illusion of dimension or depth

Creating Lines with Colour
- using lighter colour, you can draw a line in the hairstyle in the direction you want the eye to travel
- single line or a series of repeated lines create bold, dramatic accent


Colour Selection
- when selecting colour, make sure tone is compatible with skin tone
- if client has gold tones in skin, select warm hair colours
- using 2 or more colours, choose similar tones within 2 levels of each other
- using high contrast colours, use one colour sparingly
-- too much contrast will create an attention-grabbing look => use only on very trendy clients that can carry off a bold look

Wave Pattern
- all hair has natural wave pattern
-- straight, wavy, curly, or extremely curly
- must take into consideration when designing a style for your client
-- straight hair reflects light better than other wave patterns => reflects most light when cut to one length
-- wavy hair combed into waves create horizontal lines
-- curly and extremely curly hair does not reflect much light and may be coarse to touch
--- creates larger form than straight or wavy hair


Creating Wave Patterns with Styling Tools
- create wave pattern temporarily with heat or wet styling
- curling irons or hot rollers => create wave or curl
- curly hair can be straightened with blow-dryer or flat iron
- crimping irons are used to create interesting and unusual wave patters like zigzags
- wet-set with rollers or pin curls to create curls and waves
- finger waves create temporary wave pattern changes


Changing Wave Patterns with Chemicals
- chemical wave pattern changes are permanent
- last until new growth is long enough to alter design
- curly hair can be straightened with relaxers
- straight hair can be curled with permanent waves


Tips for Designing with Wave Patterns
- sing too many wave pattern combinations create overly busy look
-- maybe fine for young client
-- less appropriate for a conservative professional client
- smooth wave patterns accent face and narrow round head shape
- curl wave patterns take attention away from face and soften square or rectangular features

Principles of Hair Design
- 5 principles important for art design also basis for hair design
1. Proportions
- harmonious relationship between parts or things, or the comparative relation of one thing to another
- person with very small chin and very wide forehead may have head shape out of proportion
- right hairstyle go a long way toward giving illusion of proper proportion
- Body Proportion
-- take into account of client's body proportions
-- more obvious if hair form is too small or too large
-- a more volume style suits woman with large hips or broad shoulders
-- hair should not be wider than centre of shoulders
2. Balance
- harmony or proportion
- proper degree of height and width
- symmetrical or asymmetrical
- if you are dissatisfied with a finished hair design => style is out of balance
- Measure Symmetry:
-- divide face into 4 equal parts
-- where lines cross is central axis => reference point for judging balance of hair design
-- decide f hairstyle looks pleasing to eye and in correct balance
- Symmetrical Balance:
-- design similar on both sides of face, same distance from centre, length, and volume
-- less trendy than asymmetrical styles
- Asymmetrical Balance:
-- unequal proportions designed to balance facial features
-- opposite sides of hairstyle are different lengths or have different volume
-- horizontal or diagonal
3. Rhythm
- regular, recurrent pattern of movement in hairstyle
- fast or slow
- fast rhythm moves quickly => tight curls
- slow rhythm => larger shapings or long waves
4. Emphasis
- where the eye turns first before travelling to the rest of the design
- interesting hairstyle has an area of focus or emphasis
-- wave patterns
-- colour
-- change in form
-- ornamentation
- choose area of head or face you want to emphasize
- keep design simple so easy for eye to follow from point of emphasis to rest of style
- have multiple points of emphasis as long as they decrease in size and importance
- careful not to use too many => too busy (less is more)
- make sure ornaments are appropriate to total look of client and do not overpower hairstyle
5. Harmony
- orderly and pleasing arrangement of shapes and lines
-- most important of art principles
- holds all elements of design together
- has pleasing form with interesting lines, pleasing colour or combination of colours, and right balance and rhythm for design
- harmonious style in proportion to client's facial and body structure including area of emphasis from which eyes move to rest of style


Creating Harmony Between Hairstyle & Facial Structure
- analyze client's facial features for strengths and shortcomings
- accentuate client's best features and downplay others
- hairstyles properly proportioned to body type and balanced to head and facial features, attractively frame face
- take into account
-- shape of head; front view, profile, back view
-- features
-- body posture

How Hair Types Influence Hair Design Decisions
- consider hair texture & wave pattern
- wave patterns: straight, wavy, curly, extremely curly
- texture: fine, medium, coarse
- Fine, Straight Hair:
-- hugs head shape (no body or volume)
-- silhouette small & narrow
-- if not appropriate for client, think styling aids or chemical services for flattering style
-- hair do not offer enough support for versatility in styling
- Straight, Medium Hair:
-- offers more versatility in styling
-- responds well to blow-drying with various brush sizes
-- good amount of movement
-- rollers and thermal styling
- Straight, Coarse Hair:
-- hard to curl and carries more volume
-- slightly wider silhouette
-- responds well to thermal styling
-- blow-drying with round brush => too poofy (hair shaft very wider diameter)
--- use flat brushes for blow-dry
-- chemical services take longer to process
- Wavy, Fine Hair:
-- appear fuller with appropriate haircut & style
-- layering look fuller
-- responds well to blow-drying and chemical services
-- do NOT overdo services (hair fragile)
-- straighten easily with blow-dry (sacrifice volume)
--- hair fuller appearance diffused
- Wavy, Medium Hair:
-- many styling options (most versatility in styling)
-- hair diffused dry => curly
-- blow-dried => straight
-Wavy, Coarse Hair:
-- silhouette can get very wide
-- unruly if not shaped properly
-- blow-drying easier for stylist than client
-- work out a flattering shape that is easily maintained if client not good with own hair
-- chemical services like mild relaxers works well
-- soft perm bring client to a wash-and-wear curly style
-- up to you to educate client toward right decision and teach how to maintain style at home
- Curly, Fine Hair:
-- left too long, can separate and revel too much scalp unless hair is abundant
-- respond well to mild relaxer and colour
-- blow-dry difficult unless hair is cut into short layers
--- in humidity => curly hair again
- Curly, Medium Hair:
-- wide silhouette (should be proportion to body, not overwhelm it)
-- romantic if left natural
-- shape hair appropriately, look at weight line of haircut will fall
-- responds well to relaxers and colour
- Curly, Coarse Hair
-- needs lots of heavy styling product to weight it down
-- hair will shrink considerably when dry
- Very Curly, Fine Hair:
-- most flattering shape for client must be determined
-- best left short => ease of styling
-- long hair wide silhouette, extremely voluminous
-- chemical services take well, careful with relaxing (fragile hair)
-- hair pressing (temporary straightening) option but do NOT overdo
- Extremely Curly, Medium Hair
-- silhouette very wide (hair looks wider as it grows)
-- chemical relaxers work very well => narrows shape
-- hair pressing good option
-- thermal styling can follow pressing
-- hair left in natural state, cropping close to head in flattering shape is great for ease of styling and low maintenance
- Extremely Curly, Coarse Hair:
-- silhouette extremely wide without proper maintenance
-- chemical relaxing recommended (if not to straighten hair, then enough to style easier)
--- other services will be easier to perform
-- too thick to tie back ponytail
-- if client refuse chemical services, try short, cropped layers to narrow silhouette

Facial Types
- facial shape determined by position and prominence of facial bones
- determine facial shape - pull hair off face using towel or ponytail
- 7 basic shapes
-- oval
-- round
-- square
-- oblong
-- triangle (ear-shaped)
-- inverted triangle (heart-shaped)
-- diamond
- generally try to create illusion of oval-shaped face
- face can be divided into 3 zones:
-- forehead to eyebrow
-- eyebrows to end of nose
-- end of nose to bottom of chin


Oval Facial Type
- contour & proportions of this ideal face shape form basis for modifying all other facial types
- Facial Contour:
-- 1 1/2 times longer than its width across brow
-- forehead slightly wider than chin
- can wear any hairstyle unless consideration of eyeglasses, length & shape of nose, or profile

Round Facial Type
- Facial Contour:
-- round hairline, round chin line; wide face
- Aim:
-- create illusion of length to face, making face slimmer
- Styling Choice:
-- create hairstyle with height & volume on top; closeness or no volume at sides

Square Facial Type
- Facial Contour:
-- wide at temples, narrow at middle third of face, squared off at jaw
- Aim:
-- offst or round out square features
- Styling Choice:
-- soften hair around temples and jaw, bringing shape or silhouette close to head form
-- create volume around area between temples and jaw (adding width around ear)


Triangular (Pear-shaped) Facial Type
- Facial Contour:
-- narrow forehead, wide jaw and chin line
- Aim:
-- create illusion of width in forehead
- Styling Choice:
-- build hairstyle that has volume at temples and some height at top
-- disguise narrowness of forehead with soft fringe


Oblong Facial Type
- Facial Contour:
-- long, narrow face with hollow cheeks
- Aim:
-- make face appear shorter and wider
- Styling Choice:
-- keep hair fairly close to top of head
-- add volume to sides to create illusion of width
-- hair should not be too long
-- chin length is most effective

Diamond Facial Type
- Facial Contour:
-- narrow forehead
-- extreme width through cheekbones
-- narrow chin
- Aim:
-- to reduce width across cheekbone line
- Styling Choice:
-- increase fullness across jawline and forehead
-- keep hair close to head a cheekbone line
-- avoid hairstyles that lift away from cheeks or move back from hairline on the sides near ear area


Inverted Triangle Facial Type
- Facial Contour:
-- wide forehead, narrow chin line
- Aim:
-- decrease width of forehead
-- increase width in lower part of face
- Styling Choice:
-- reduce width of forehead by styling hair close to head with no volume
--- fringe recommended
-- gradually increase width of silhouette as you style middle third of the shape in cheekbone area and near ears
-- keep silhouette to its widest at jaw and neck area


Special Considerations

Top 3rd of Face
- Wide Forehead:
-- direct hair forward over sides of forehead
- Narrow Forehead:
-- direct hair away from face at the forehead
-- lighter highlights can be used at temples to create illusion of width


Middle 3rd of Face
- Close-set Eyes:
-- usually found on long, narrow faces
-- direct hair back and away from face at temples
-- side movement from a diagonal back part with some height
-- slight lightening of hair at corner of eyes give illusion of width
- Wide-set Eyes:
-- usually found on round or square faces
-- higher half bang to create length in face (illusion of larger face)
-- hair slightly darker at sides than top
- Crooked Nose:
-- asymmetrical, off-centre styles best (attract eyes away from nose)
- Wide, Flat nose:
-- draw hair away from face
-- use centre part to help elongate and narrow nose
- Long, Narrow Nose:
-- avoid styles tapered close to head on sides and height on top
-- avoid middle parts or too much hair toward face
-- select styles where hair moves away from face (illusion of wider facial features)


Lower 3rd of Face
- Round Jaw:
-- straight lines at jawline
- Square Jaw:
-- curved lines at jawline
- Long Jaw:
-- hair should be full and fall below jaw to direct attention away

Profile
- outline of face, head, or figure seen in side view
1. Straight Profile:
- ideal
- all hairstyles flattering to straight or normal profile
2. Convex Profile: curving outward
- receding forehead and chin
- calls for curls or bangs over forehead
- keep style clos to head at nape
- move hair forward in chin area
3. Concave Profile: curing inward
- prominent forehead and chin
- other features receded inward
- softly style hair at nape with upward movement
- do not build hair onto forehead

Receding Forehead:
- direct bangs over forehead with outwardly directed volume
Large Forehead:
- bangs with little or no volume to cover forehead
Small Nose:
- considered child-like quality
- best hairstyle not associated with children
- hair swept off face, creating line from nose to ear
- top hair moved off forehead (illusion of length to nose)
Prominent Nose:
- draw attention away from nose, bring hair forward at forehead with softness around face
Receding Chin:
- hair directed forward in chin area
Small Chin:
- move hair up and away from face along chin line
Large Chin:
- hair longer or shorter than chin line, not draw attention to chin


Head Shape
- not all head shapes are round
- important to feel head shape before deciding on hairstyle
- design style with volume in areas that are flat or small
- reducing volume in areas that are large or prominent


Styling for People with Glasses
- arm of glasses can push hair at ear and cause it to stick out
- short hair: reconsider length of hair around ear
-- leave little longer or cut hair above and around ear
- styling purpose, choose style enough hair covering ear, or direct hair away from face

Hair Parts
- can be focal point => eyes drawn to a part
- part must be neat, striaght, directed positively
- best to use natural part


Parts for Fringe (Bangs)
- Fringe (Bangs):
-- triangle section that begins at the apex or high point of head, ends at front corners
- parted in 3 basic ways:
1. Triangular Part:
- basic parting for fringe sections
2. Diagonal Part:
- gives height to a round or square face
- width to a long, thin face
3. Curved Part:
- receding hairline or high forehead

Style Parts
1. Side Parts:
- direct hair across top of ead
- develop height on top
- make thin hair appear fuller
2. Centre Parts:
- classic
- used for oval face
- give oval illusion to wide and round faces
- do not use centre part on prominent noses
3. Diagonal Back Parts:
- create illusion of width or height in hairstyle
4. Zigzag Parts:
- create dramatic effect

Designing for Men
- all hair lengths are acceptable for men
- choose styles that are flattering, appropriate for client's career, hair type and lifestyle


Choosing Moustache and Beard Shapes
- greatly disguise facial flaw on male clients
- if client does not have prominent chin (neatly trimmed full beard)
- if man has wide face and full cheeks, close-trimmed beard and moustache
- balding man with closely trimmed hair may look good in closely groomed beard and moustache
- sideburns, moustaches without beards, and beard shapes dictated by current trends