Notes for Haircoloring

Haircoloring
- clients who have their hair coloured visits the salon every 4 to 12 weeks
- skilled haircolourist are experts in:
-- depositing colour on natural hair colour
-- depositing colour on previously coloured hair
-- depositing colour on hair that has been lightened
-- lightening and depositing colour in one step
- stats show haircut clients stay with stylist for average 2 years, colour clients stay for 8 years

Why People Colour their Hair
- information comes out of client consultation
- cover up or blend gray (unpigmented) hair
- enchance existing haircolour
- create a fashion statement or statement of self-expression
- correct unwanted tones in hair from environmental exposure (sun, chlorine)
- accentuate particular haircut

NOTE: Haircolour (one word) is a professional, industry-coined term referring to artificial haircolour products and services.  Hair colour (two words) is the colour of hair created by nature.


Colour Theory
- colour is a form of light energy
- colours we can see are contained in the visible spectrum of light

Law of Colours
- system for understanding colour relationships


Primary Colours
- pure or fundamental colours that cannot be achieved from a mixture
- blue, red, yellow
- all colours are created from these primaries
- Cool-toned colours: colours with predominance of blue
- Warm-toned colours: colours with predominance of red

Blue
- darkest of primary colours
- only cool primary colour
- brings depth or darkness to any colour

Red
- medium primary colour
- added to blue based colour will appear lighter
- added to yellow colours will appear darker

Yellow
- lightest of primary colours
- added to colour results to lighter and brighter appearance

Black
- All three primary colours equally mixed

Brown
- blue-B + red-RR + yellow-YYY

Secondary Colours
- mixing equal parts of two primary colours
- equal parts of red + blue  = violet
- equal parts of blue + yellow = green
- equal parts of red + yellow = orange

Tertiary Colours
- intermediate colour = secondary colour + neighbouring primary colour (in equal amounts)
- blue-green, blue-violet, red-violet, red-orange, yellow-orange, yellow-green
- natural-looking haircolour is a combination of primary and secondary colours

Complementary Colours
- primary + secondary colour positioned opposite each other on the colour wheel
- blue + orange, red + green, yellow + violet
- neutralizes each other
- when formulating haircolour, goal to emphasize or distract from skin tone or eye colour. May also want to neutralize or refine unwanted tones in hair
- understanding complementary colours helps to find appropriate tone


Hair Facts

Hair Structure
- determining factor in choosing which haircolour to use
- affects quality and ultimate success of haircolour service
- Cuticle:
-- outermost layer of hair
-- protects interior cortex layer
-- contributes to 20% overall strength of hair
- Cortex:
-- middle layer
-- gives hair strength and elasticity
-- contributes 80% overall strength of hair
-- contains natural pigment Melanin
--- determines blondes, brunettes, or redheas
--- melanin granules scattered between cortex cells like chocolate chip cookie
- Medulla:
-- innermost layer
-- sometimes absent from hair
-- plays very minor role in haircolouring process

Texture
- determined by diameter of individual hair strand
- large hair strand = coarse hair texture
-- has large diameter => longer to process
- medium hair strand = medium hair texture
-- average response to haircolour products
- small diameter hair strands = fine hair texture
-- melanin granules in fine hair => grouped more tightly => takes colour faster => look darker

Density
- number of hairs per square inch
- thick to thin
- must take into account in haircolour to ensure proper coverage

Porosity
- ability to absorb liquid
- porous hair accepts haircolor faster and permits darker colour than less porous hair
- Low Porosity:
-- cuticle is tight
-- hair is resistant
-- difficult for moisture or chemicals to penetrate
-- requires longer processing time
- Average Porosity:
-- cuticle is slightly raised
-- hair is normal
-- processes in average time
- High Porosity:
-- cuticle is lifted
-- hair is overporous
-- takes colour quickly
-- colour may also fade quickly


Test for Porosity:
1. Take a strand of several hairs from:
- front hairline
- temple
- crown
- nape
2. Hold strand securely with one hand and slide thumb & forefinger of other hand from ends to scalp

Low Porosity => If hair feels smooth & cuticle is compact, dense, and hard
Average Porosity => If hair feels slightly rough
High Porosity => If hair feels very rough, dry, or breaks

Natural Hair Colour
- identify client's natural colour
- natural colour ranges from black to dark brown to red; from dark blonde to light blonde
- hair colour unique to each individual: no 2 people have exactly same colour

Two types of melanin in cortex:
1. Eumelanin - melanin found in black and brown hair
2. Pheomelanin - melanin found in red hair, very dark hair and most brunettes.  Blondes have a small amount
- Mixed Melanin: natural hair colour can be combination of both types of melanin
- Contributing pigment:
-- pigment that lies under natural hair colour
-- must take into consideration when selecting haircolour
- When lightening natural hair colour => expose contributing pigment
-- foundation of haircolouring based on modifying this pigment with haircolour products to create new pigment


The Level System

Level (Value or Depth)
- unit of measurement - identify lightness or darkness of colour
- Level System: used to analyze lightness or darkness of hair colour
- haircolour levels arranged on a scale of 1 to 10
-- 1 being darkest
-- 10 being lightest
-- names may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer
-- important to identify degrees of lightness to darkness at each level

10 - lightest blond
9 - very light blond
8 - light blond
7 - medium blond
6 - dark blond
5 - light brown
4 - medium brown
3 - dark brown
2 - very dark brown
1 - black

Tone (Tonality)
- describe warmth or coolness of a colour
- warm tones: reds, oranges, yellows, auburn, copper, gold, bronze, honey
- cool tones: blue, green violet; haircolour: ash, drab, smoky, platinum

Intensity
- strength of a colour tone
- mild, medium, strong
- red shades: strawberry blonde, copper brown, bright orange

Base Colour
- predominant tonality of an existing colour
- artificial haircolours develop from primary & secondary colours to form base colours
- influences final colour result
- violet base colour delivers cool results minimizing unwanted yellow tones
- blue base colour provides coolest result minimizing orange tones
- red-orange base creates bright, warm results for redheads
- gold base creates gold haircolour, from brunettes to light blondes


Identifying Natural Level and Tone
- first step in performing haircolour service
- colour wheel is valuable tool
- haircolour swatch books provide visual representation
1. Take a 1/2 inch square section in the crown area and hold it up from the scalp, allowing light to pass through
2. Using natural level finder swatch from manufacturer, select a matching swatch and place against hair. You are determining depth level (darkness or lightness). Do NOT part or hold hair flat against scalp (will appear darker)
3. Move swatch from scalp area along hair strand
4. determine natural hair colour level

Gray Hair
- associated with aging
- heredity
- few people completely white-haired
- most retain certain pigment percentage
- solid or blended throughout (salt & pepper hair)
- requires special attention in formulating haircolour

% of Gray: 30%
- More pigmented than gray hair


% of Gray: 50%
- Even mixture of gray and pigmented hair

% of Gray: 70 to 90%
- More gray than pigmented; most of remaining pigment is located in back of head

% of Gray: 100%
- Virtually no pigmented hair; tends to look white

TIP: Rely on natural light when analyzing hair colour because artificial light affects your perception of hair colour, particularly fluorescent light, which can distort colour drastically.

Types of Haircolour

 Hair colouring products:
1. Temporary
2. Semipermanent
3. Demipermanent
4. Permanent
- All expect temporary require Patch Test before application to determine if client is allergic to product


Hair Lightening
- bleaching
- decolourizing
- chemical process involving diffusion of natural colour pigment or artificial colour from hair
- important in permanent haircolour and hair lighteners

Permanent Haircolour Product and Lighteners
- contain both developer (oxidizing agent) and alkalizing ingredient in their composition
- Alkalizing ingredient:
-- Ammonia or Ammonia Substitute
-- raise cuticle of hair fibre so tint (permanent colour) can penetrate
-- Oxidation Reaction: facilitate formation of tints within hair fibre
-- brings lightening action of peroxide

Tint + alkalizing ingredient (ammonia) + developer (hydrogen peroxide) => peroxide becomes alkaline and diffuses (breaks up) through hair fibre, entering cortex (where melanin is).

Lightening occurs when alkaline peroxide breaks up melanin and replaces it with new colour.


Temporary Haircolour (Physical Change)
- subtle neutralizer for yellowing hair
- neutralize unwanted tones
- pigment molecules are large => do NOT penetrate cuticle layer = coating action removed by shampoo
- NO patch test required
- Available in variety of colours and products:
-- colour rinses applied weekly to shampooed hair to add colour; hair styled dry
-- colour mousses and gels used for slight colour and for dramatic effects
-- hair mascara used for dramatic effects
-- spray-on haircolour for special effects
-- colour-enhancing shampoos used to brighten, impart slight colour, and eliminate unwanted tones

Semipermanent Haircolour
- last through several shampoos, depending on hair porosity
- pigment molecules are small enough to partially penetrate hair shaft and stain cuticle layer
- small enough to diffuse out of hair during shampooing => fade with each shampoo
- lasts 6 - 8 weeks
- NOT lighten hair => no significant colour change
- NO maintenance of new growth
- formulated without ammonia and generally as gentle as shampoo
- require patch test before application
- many an be used right out of bottle
- others require activator prior to application
-- Activator: develops colour pigments within formula
-- swells cortex and open cuticle for colour penetration
- some has after-rinse
-- rinse prevents fading to lighter colour or off-tone and leaves hair soft, pliable, and easy to comb
- always good idea to finish service with mild conditioning rinse


Demipermanent Haircolour (Deposit-Only Haircolour)
- referred as semipermanent by some manufacturers
- longer lasting than semipermanent
- deposit but not lift (lighten) colour
- smaller tint molecules penetrating hair shaft
- imparts vivi colour results
- ideal for:
-- covering unpigmented hair
-- refreshing faded permanent colour
-- depositing tonal changes without lift
-- corrective colouring
-- reverse highlighting
- darken natural hair colour
- little to no damage to hair => gentle or mild (low ammonia or no-ammonia formula)
- used exclusively on middle of hair shaft to ends after permanent colour applied to base area.
-- fights build up effect on previously coloured hair
-- less aggressive => less damage
- available in gel, cream, liquid
- requires patch test

Permanent Haircolour
- mixed with developer (hydrogen peroxide)
- remains in hair shaft until new growth of hair occurs
- match, lighten, and cover gray hair
- generally contain ammonia, oxidative tints, and peroxide
- require patch test
- tint formula contains uncoloured dye precursors (aniline derivatives)
-- very small compounds that diffuse into hair shaft
-- combines with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, permanent tint molecules that are trapped within cortex => cannot be shampooed out
- best for covering gray
- remove natural pigment through lightening while adding artificial colour
- action of removing and adding coour, blending gray and nongray hair uniformly => natural-looking colour

Haircolour Categories

Temporary Colour
Uses:
- creates fun, bold results that easily shampoo from the hair
- neutralizes yellow hair

Semipermanent Colour

Uses:
- introduces client to haircolour services
- adds subtle colour results
- tones prelightened hair

Demipermanent Colour

Uses:
- blends gray hair
- enhances natural colour
- tones prelightened hair
- refreshes faded colourFiller in colour correction


Permanent Colour

Uses:
- changes existing haircolour
- covers gray
- creates bright or natural-looking haircolour changes



Hydrogen Peroxide Developers
- Developer: (Oxidizing agent or Catalysts)
-- supplies necessary oxygen gas to develop colour molecules and create change in hair colour when mixed wtih an oxidative haircolour
-- have pH between 2.5 & 4.5
-- hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) => most common
- Volume:
-- measure of potential oxidation of varying strengths of hydrogen peroxide
-- lower the volume, less lift is achieved
-- higher the volume, greater lifting action
-- majority of permanent haircolour products use 10, 20, 30, or 40 volume hydrogen peroxide for proper colour development
-- store peroxide in cool, dark, dry place


Hydrogen Peroxide Volume & Uses

10 Volume
When:
- when less lightening is desired to enhance a client's natural hair colour

20 Volume
When:
- standard volume
- used to achieve most results with permanent haircolour
- used for complete gray coverage

30 Volume
When:
- used for additional lift with permanent haircolour

40 Volume
When:
- used with most high-lift colours to provide maximum lift in a one-step colour service


Natural & Metallic Haircolours
- Not generally used in salons
- Natural or Vegetable Haircolours:
-- henna: black, chestnut, auburn tones
-- natural colours from leaves or bark of plants
-- NO lightening of natural hair colour
-- colour results weak
-- process lengthy & messy
-- shade ranges limited
-- many chemical products CANNOT be applied over natural hair colours
- Metallic Haircolours (Gradual Colours):
-- contain metal salts
-- change hair colour gradually by progressive buildup and exposure to air
-- creates dull, metallic appearance
-- requires daily application
-- historically marketed to men
-- problem: shade appear unnatural
-- limited shade range
-- Compound Dyes: combination of metallic colours and vegetable tint
-- NOT used professionally

Lighteners
- chemical compounds lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving, and decolourizing natural hair pigment
- Oxidation: oxygen is released within the cortex by mixing hydrogen peroxide into lightener formula
- diffuse pigment
- used to create blonde shade not achievable with permanent haircolour
-- lighten hair prior to application of colour; to create final colour
-- lighten hair to particular shade
-- brighten and lighten existing shade
-- lighten only certain parts of hair
-- lighten dark natural or colour-treated levels


Decolourizing Process
- amount of change depends on:
-- how much pigment the hair has
-- strength of lightening product
-- length of time it is processed
- natural hair can go through as many as 10 stages


Ten Degrees of Decolourization
10. pale yellow
9. yellow
8. yellow/gold
7. gold
6. orange/gold
5. orange
4. red/orange
3. red
2. red brown
1. dark red/brown


Contribution of Underlying Pigment
- decolourizing hair's natural melanin pigment allows the exact degree of contributing pigment needed for final result
1. hair is decolourized to appropriate level
2. new colour is applied to deposit the desired colour
- remaining natural pigment contributes to artificial colour added
- lightening hair to correct stage is essential to final haircolouring result

CAUTION: It is often difficult to lighten dark hair to a very pale blonde without extreme damage to the hair. Client should be alerted to danger before proceeding with service.


Toners
- semipermanent, demipermanent, and permanent haircolour products used primarily on prelightened hair to achieve pale and delicate colours.
- applied to lightest degree of contributing pigment remaining after decolourizing process
- not all hair go through all 10 degrees of decolourization
-- each start at different stages
- goal: create correct degree of contributing pigment as foundation for final haircolour result
- hair is NEVER safely lifted past pale yellow stage to white with lightener
-- extreme diffusion to white causes excessive damage to hair strand
-- wet hair feels "mushy"
-- stretch without returning to original length
-- hard and brittle when dry
-- suffers breakage
-- NOT accept toner properly
- baby-blonde look can be achieved by lightening to pale yellow and neutralizing unwanted undertone (contributing pigment) with toner

Contributing Pigment (Undertones)
10. pale yellow
9. yellow
8. yellow/orange
7. orange
6. red/orange
5. red
4. red/violet
3. violet
2. blue/violet
1. blue

Consultation
- haircolour consultation => most critical part of colour service
- first step in establishing relationship with client
- client communicate what they want
- you listen carefully to make appropriate haircolour recommendation
- allow sufficient time for consultation to ensure client satisfaction
- begin consultation with proper lighting to accurately assess client's hair
-- wall should be white or neutral
1. Book 15 minutes extra for consultation. Introduce yourself and welcome them to salon.  Offer a beverage. No interruptions.
2. Have client fill out information card. Compile hair history and note type of hair colour desired. Pay attention to client's skin and eye colour, condition and length of hair and amout of gray hair.
3. Look at client directly. Ask what client is thinking about doing with hair colour. Ask leading questions. Let them talk. Keep them on track discussing recent hair history
- temporary or permanent chang?
- overall colour or highlights?
- conservative or dramatic colour?
- have you seen so-and-so's hair? That colour would look great on you.
- would you like to add shine to your hair?
4. Recommend at least 2 different haircolour options.  Show pictures of different ranges of colours, from brunette to blonde, red, and highlighted colours.
5. Review procedure and application technique, maintenance involved, cost of service, and follow-up maintenance. Sometimes several steps are necessary to obtain haircolour result. A client may love a certain haircolour but NOT afford it. Have a more economical backup solution ready.
6. Be honest and do not promise the world. If faced with a corrective situation, let client know what you can do today and how many visits it will take to achieve what they are looking for.
7. Gain approval from client.
8. Start haircolour service.
9. Follow through during service by educating and informing client about home care, products, and rebooking.  Let client know type of shampoo and conditioner are needed to maintain colour.  Let him know how many weeks it will be before they need to come back for another service.
10. Fill out client's haircolour record.

CAUTION: Medications can affect haircolour. In the consultation, determine if client is taking medication.  medical treatments for conditions such as diabetes, high blood pressure, and thyroid problems will affect outcome of colour and most chemical services.

NOTE: Use descriptive language to discuss products and services
- use persuasive language in haircolour ("soft, buttery blonde," "rich chocolate brown," "spicy, coppery red.")
- avoid words with negative connotation ("bleached," "frosted," and "roots.")
- use positive "mood" words to convey benefits ("healthy-looking," "richer," "natural-looking," "subtle.")

Release statement
- used by salons providing chemical services
- purpose to explain to clients if their hair is in questionable condition, may not withstand requested chemical treatment.
- asks clients about prior chemical experimentation that may affect current colour selection and end results.
- protect school/salon from responsibility for accidents or damages
- required for most malpractice insurance
- is NOT a legally binding contact and NOT clear cosmetologist of responsibility

Patch Test (Predisposition Test)
- identify allergies or sensitivities to mixture
- given 24 - 48 hours prior to application of an aniline tint or toner
- tint used for patch test must be same type to be used and colour

Performing a Patch Test
1. Select test area. Behind ear or inside of elbow
2. Use mild soap, cleanse and dry area about size of quarter
3. Mix small amount of product according to manufacturer's directions
4. Apply to test area with sterile cotton swab
5. Leave undisturbed for 24 hours
6. Examine test area. If no signs of redness or irritation, proceed with colour service
7. Log result on client information card
- a Negative skin test => no sign of inflammation => colour may be safely applied
- a Positive skin test => redness, slight rash or welt => allergic - do NOT proceed with substance tested

CAUTION: Patch test must be given before colouring the hair with an aniline derivative product. Aniline derivative tints must never be used on eyelashes or eyebrows as it may cause blindness.

Hair Application Procedures
- for successful results, colorist must follow prescribed procedures


Preliminary Strand Test
- once colour formula is created for client, test on a small strand of hair
- tell how hair will react to formula and how long it should be left on hair
- done after client is prepared for coloring services

Temporary Colours
- many methods of applying
- to apply gels, mousses, foams, or sprays, return client to your work area after shampooing and apply colour according to manufacturers' directions.

Semipermanent Haircolours
- lack strong oxidizers necessary to lift
- deposit colour and do no substantial lifting
- remember colour applied on top of colour creates darker colour
- hair porosity determine how well products take
- colours may buildup on hair ends with each application
- test strand determines your formula and processing time before each service

CAUTION: Always perform patch test before applying semipermanent colour, which contains aniline derivative that may cause allergies or sensitivities.

Demipermanent (Deposit-Only) Haircolour
- application procedure similar to semipermanent since neither colour alters hair natural melanin or produce lift
- follow manufacturer's guidelines for application and processing time
- gray (unpigmented) hair
-- since no lift, resulting colour depth may appear too extreme unless you allow for some brightness in your formulation
-- usually NOT advisable to cover gray hair one even shade
--- natural hair colour has different depths and tonalities => gives added life that gray hair is lacking
- previously coloured hair will have greater porosity => must consider when formulating and applying demipermanent haircolour


Permanent Haircolour
- Single-process haircolouring:
-- process that lightens and colours hair in a single application
-- Virgin Tint Application: first time hair is tinted
-- tint retouch application
-- prelightening or presoftening NOT required
-- usually contains lightening agent, shampoo, aniline derivative tint, and alkalizing agent to activate added peroxide
-- most colour is formulated with 20 volume peroxide
-- when other volumes of peroxide used , colour results will be altered
- Double-process Colouring: (Double-Application Tinting, Two-Step Colouring)
-- two separate procedures
-- 1. hair is prelightened
--- lifts or lightens natural pigments, preliminary to application of toner
-- 2. Depositing colour applied
- wider range of haircolour possibilities
-- because lightening action and colour deposit are independently controlled

Formulation - Things to ask when formulating haircolour
1. What is the natural level? Is there any gray hair?
2. What is the client's desired level and tone?
3. Are contributing pigments (undertones) revealed?
4. What colours should be mixed to get the desired result?
- combination of shade selected and volume of hydrogen peroxide determines lifting ability of haircolour
- remember to formulate with both lift and deposit in mind
- higher lifting formula may NOT have enough depositing tonality to subdue warmth of client's natural contributing pigment
- volume of hydrogen peroxide also influence lift & deposit


Mixing Permanent Colours
- determined by type of application used
- Applicator bottle:
-- ensure bottle is large enough to hold both colour product and developer, with air space to blend by shaking
-- for 1:1 ratio, pour 1oz developer into bottle, add 1oz colour, put top on bottle & shake gently
-- for 2:1 ratio, pour 2oz developer into bottle, add 1oz colour, and mix => most permanent high-lift blonde colours
- Bowl-and-brush:
-- use nonmetallic mixing bowl
-- measure developer into bowl
-- add colour(s) selected in appropriate portions
-- with a tint applicator brush, stir mixture until thoroughly blended
-- a creamy consistency is best for control during application

Single-Process Tint Retouch
- avoid two-toned effect
- retouch new growth
- follow same preparation for virgin single-process procedure, including consultation and patch test
1. Apply tint to new growth only, being careful NOT to overlap on previously tinted hair.  Overlapping can cause breakage and create a sign of roots or a line or demarcation => visible line separating coloured hair from new growth.
2. Process colour according to your analysis and strand test results
3. To refresh faded ends: formulate a demipermanent colour for the ends matching regrowth, or rinse colour through to the ends.  Then shampoo.

Double-Process Colour
- for dramatically lighter colour => hair has to be prelightened
- to achieve pale or cool colours
- decoluorizing hair with a lightener, then using separate product to add desired tonality
- more control over colouring process
- contributing pigment of hair works for you
-- prelightening hair to desired degree of decolourization => create perfect foundation for longer-lasting red colours avoiding muddiness and staying true to tone
- prelightener application same as for regular hair lightening treatment
- once prelightening reached desired shade, hair lightly shampooed, acidified, and towel dried
- after strand test, colour is applied in usual manner

Lightening Techniques
- 3 forms: oil, cream, powder
- On-the-scalp Lighteners:
-- used directly on scalp
-- easy to apply
-- Oil Lightener:
--- mildest type
--- 1 or 2 levels of colour lift
--- used professionally to lighten dark facial and body hair
-- Cream Lightener:
--- strong enough for blonding
--- contain conditioning agent protecting hair and scalp
--- thickeners give more control during application
--- do not run or drip => overlapping during retouching is prevented
--- may be mixed with Activators (Boosters, Protinators, Accelerators) in dry crystal form
--- Activator: oxidizer added to hydrogen peroxide to increase chemical action => lifting power
---- greater number of activators, greater strength of formula
---- up to 3 activators can be used for on-the scalp applications
---- up to 4 activators can be used for off-the-scalp applications

- Off-the-scalp lighteners:
-- cannot be used directly on scalp
-- Powder Lighteners: (Quick Lighteners)
--- strong, fast-acting lightener in powdered form
--- strong enough for blonding
--- contain oxygen releasing boosters for quicker and stronger action
--- may dry out more quickly than other types of lighteners
--- do not run or drip
--- most expand and spread out as processing continues and should NOT use for retouch services

Time Factors
- darker the natural hair colour => more melanin it has => longer to lighten
- porous hair of same colour level lightens faster than nonporous hair => bleaching agent enter cortex more rapidly
- tone: greater percentage of red reflected in natural colour => more difficult to achieve pale, delicate shades of blonde
-- ash blondes especially difficult because melanin must be diffused sufficiently to alter both level and tone of hair
- strength of product: stronger lighteners attain pale shades faster
- heat leads to quicker lightening
-- stages of lightening must be carefully observed to avoid excessive lift leading to diffusion of so much natural pigment that desired toner shade may not develop properly in hair shaft
-- toner shade may "grab" base colour, giving hair ashy, unpigmented tone
- preform preliminary strand test prior to lightening to determine process time, condition of hair after lightening , and end results
-- watch stand for reaction to lightening mixture and any discolouration or breakage
-- reconditioning may be required prior to toning
-- if colour and condition are good => proceed
-- record all data on client's record card
-- if test shows hair not light enough => increase strength of mixture and/or processing time
-- if hair strand too light => decrease strength of mixture and/or processing time
- a patch test must be taken 24 hours prior to application of a toner containing aniline derivatives
-- to save time, strand test for lightening done same day as patch test

Lightener Retouch
- dark new growth becomes very obvious
- New Growth (Regrowth): part of hair shaft between scalp and previously treated hair.
- lighten new grown first
- same procedure as for lightening a virgin head, except mixture only applied to new hair growth
- cream lightener generally used because of consistency preventing overlapping of previously lightened hair
- overlapping causes severe breakage and lines of demarcation
- cream lighteners are gentler on scalp
- consult client's record card for information about which lightener formulas used, timing, etc.

Toners
- used primarily on prelightened hair to achieve pale, delicate colours
- requires double-process application
-- 1. application of lightener
-- 2. application of toner
- Foundation: colour that is left after hair goes through 10 stages of decolourizing
-- essential to achieve correct foundation in order to create degree of porosity required for proper toner development
- manufacturers include literature with products recommending foundations necessary to achieve desired colour
- paler the colour => lighter a foundation
- overlightened hair will "grab" base colour of toner
- underlightened hair will appear to have more red, yellow, or orange than intended colour
- NOT advisable to prelighten past pale yellow stage
-- create overporous hair with inadequate amounts of natural pigment left in cortex for toner to bond to


Preliminary Toner Application
- patch test for allergies or other sensitivities 24 hours before toner application
- stand test on same day to save time
- proceed with application if patch test results are negative and hair in good condition
- wear gloves throughout application
- speed and accuracy  both important factors in application => good colour results
- procedure for applying low or nonperoxide toners may vary


NOTE: Getting clients interested in haircolouring
- wear colour in your hair
- display haircolour-related materials at workstation
-- swatches, pictures, etc.
- suggest haircolour to almost every client and see every client as a potential user of services

CAUTION: powder lighteners are used exclusively for off-the-scalp applications and special effects, such as foil-wrapped weaving, highlighting with plastic caps, and hair painting

CAUTION: when heat is used with lightening chemicals, it softens hair making it more fragile.  Excessive heat increases molecules motion, causing damage by removing cuticle layers and destroying cortical bonds.


Special Effects Haircolouring
- any technique involving partial lightening or colouring
- colouring for special effects => pure fashion technique
- Highlighting:
-- colouring some hair strands lighter than natural colour, adding illusion of sheen and depth
-- do not generally contrast strongly with natural colour
-- light colours cause an area to advance toward the eye, to appear larger, and make details more visible
- Reverse Highlighting (Lowlighting):
-- colouring hair strands darker than natural colour
-- contrasting dark areas recede, appear smaller, and make details less visible
- 3 most frequently used techniques: cap technique, foil technique, balayage or free-form technique

Cap Technique
- pulling clean strands of hair through a perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal hook, then combing to remove tangles
- number of strands pulled through determines the degree of highlighting or lowlighting you can achieve
- for highlighting, hair is lightened with a bleach product or high-lifting colour, beginning in area most resistant
- lightener is removed by thorough rinsing, then shampoo
- towel-blotting and conditioning (if necessary)
- lightened hair can be toned (if desired)

Foil Technique
- colouring selected strands of hair by slicing or weaving out sections placing them on foil or plastic wrap, applying highlightener or colour, and sealing them in foil or plastic wrap
- can also apply permanent haircolour to strands to create softer, more natural-looking highlights
-- red for red highlights
- start creating clean section blocks on head
- Slicing:
-- taking narrow 1/8 inch (.3 cm) section of hair by making straight part at the scalp
-- position hair over foil and applying lightener or colour
- Weaving:
-- selected strands are picked up from a narrow section of hair with zigzag motion of the comb
-- lightener or colour applied to only these strands
- many patterns foil can be placed in hair
-- face-frame
-- half-head
-- three-quarter head
-- full-head wrapping patterns

Balayage Technique (Free-form Technique)
- painting of a lightener (power lightener) directly onto clean, styled hair
- lightener is applied with a tint brush or tail comb from base to ends around head
- effects extremely subtle, used to draw attention to surface of hair

Toning Overhighlighted and Dimensionally Coloured Hair
- when hair is decolourized to desired level during highlighting service, use of toner not needed
- if cool tonality is desired, use toner to cancel undesirable yellow contributing pigment
- when using toner on highlighted hair, consider:
-- varying degrees of porosity in hair
-- difference in pigmentation created by lightening process from strand to strand
- oxidative toner imparts colour to highlighted strands
-- also affect natural or pigmented hair causing a slight amount of lift => uneven tonality
-- underlying warmth brought out by oxidative colour
-- strand test to ensure results
- avoid affecting untreated har:
-- a nonoxidative toner (no ammonia):
--- required no developer (no lift of natural hair colour)
--- gentle on scalp and hair
-- semipermanent colour
--- deposit tonality without lift
--- not all colours are delicate enough to avoid overpowering prelightened hair
--- check manufacturers' colour chart for base colour of your chosen toner
-- demipermanent haircolour
--- deposit-only colour without ammonia
--- also used to recolour hair
-- not further decolourize but longer lasting than temporary or semipermanent toner

Highlighting Shampoos

Highlighting Shampoo Tints
- prepared by combining permanent haircolour, hydrogen peroixide, and shampoo
- used when a very slight change in hair shade is desired, or when the client's hair processes very rapidly
- highlight hair's natural colour in a single application
- patch test required

Highlighting Shampoos
- mixture of shampoo and hydrogen peroxide
- natural colour is slightly lightened
- no patch test required
- follow manufacturer's directions

Special Problems in Haircolour / Corrective Colouring
- colourist must factor in sufficient time for complete consultation with client and careful analysis of client's hair
- strand test taken to ensure satisfactory final results
- due to particular structure or condition of client's hair may cause some issues

Gray Hair: Challenges and Solutions
- gray, white, and salt-and-pepper hair present unique colouring challenges
- gray hair can turn orange if lightener is not processed long enough

Yellow Hair
- problem with gray hair: yellow cast caused by smoking, medication, exposure to sun, hair sprays, styling aids, etc.
- lightener and tint removers help remove yellow discolouration
- undesired yellow can often be overpowered by artificial pigments deposited by violet-based colours of an equal or darker level than the yellow

Formulating for Gray Hair
- grey hair accepts level of colour applied
- level 9 or lighter shades may not give complete coverage because of small % of artificial pigment formulated into these shades
- formulations from levels 6-8 give better coverage
-- used to create pastel and blonde tones
- clients who are 80 - 100% grey, haircolour in blonde range more flattering
-- give a warm or cool finished product, depending on client's skin tone, eye colour, personal preference
- colouring low % grey or salt-&-pepper hair to a darker level: colour on colour => darker colour
-- addition of dark artificial pigment to natural pigment results in colour that eye perceives as darker
-- use a shade lighter than the naturally dark salt-&-pepper hair
- strand test: a manufacturer's product colour chart can be used in conjunction with the following formulation charts below, to select a colour tonality within proper levels
-- also take into account: client's personality, personal preferences, amount of grey hair and its location

Semipermanent/Demipermanent Colour Formulation for Grey Hair

Percentage of Grey Hair - Formulation
90-100%   -     Desired Level
70-90%     -     Equal parts desired and one level lighter
50-70%     -     One level lighter than desired level
30-50%     -     Equal parts one level lighter and two levels lighter
10-30%     -     Two levels lighter than desired level


Permanent Colour Formulation for Grey Hair


Percentage of Grey Hair - Formulation

90-100%   -     Desired Level
70-90%     -     Two parts desired level and one part lighter level
50-70%     -     Equal parts desired and lighter level
30-50%     -     Two parts lighter level and one part desired level
10-30%     -     One level lighter


Presoftening
- used when grey hair is so resistant that coverage is not satisfactory
- process of treating grey or very resistant hair: better penetration of colour by opening cuticle
-- double-application haircolouring service
-- presoftener applied, processed, removed, then tint applied
- effective on pigmented resistant hair
-- NOTE: leave on hair only long enough to open cuticle, making hair porous to accept colour
--- otherwise it creates underlying warmth than desired and affect formulation and colour selection
- presoften hair: mix product according to manufacturer's directions
-- apply with brush or bottle in most resistant areas first
-- process at room temperature for 5 to 20 minutes
-- wipe colour gently with cloth or paper towel to remove
-- apply desired level and tone of colour to achieve end results

Rules for Effective Colour Correction
1. Do not panic.
2. Establish true problem.
3. Establish cause of problem.
4. Establish most suitable remedy.
5. Always take one step at a time.
6. Never guarantee an exact result.
7. Always strand test for accuracy.

Damaged Hair
- blow-drying, wind, harsh shampoos, chemical services
- coating compounds: hair sprays, styling agents, some conditioners lead to diminished colour penetration
- considered damaged:
-- rough texture
-- overporous condition
-- brittle and dry to the touch
-- susceptible to breakage
-- no elasticity
-- becomes spongy and matted when wet
-- colour fades or absorbs too rapidly
-- Any of the above create problems during a tinting, lightening, permanent waving, or hair relaxing treatment => give reconditioning treatments prior to , and after application of chemical processes
- when dealing with damaged hair:
-- use penetrating conditioner that deposit protein, oils, and moisture rich ingredients
-- complete each chemical service by normalizing pH with a finishing rinse restoring cuticle's protective capacity
-- postpone chemical service until hair is reconditioned if hair is still unresponsive after conditioning treatment
-- schedule client for between-service conditioning
-- recommend retail products for use at home to prepare for next service

Fillers
- specialized preparations designed to equalize porosity and deposit a base colour in one application
- ready-made manufacturer's preparation
- or mixture of tint and conditioner you prepared
- Conditioner Fillers:
-- recondition damaged, overly porous hair
-- applied in separate procedure or immediately prior to colour application
-- conditioner and colour are working a the same time
- Colour Fillers:
-- demipermanent colour products used when doubt as to whether the colour result will be an even shade
-- advantages:
--- deposits colour to faded ends and hair shaft
--- helps hair hold colour
--- prevents streaking and dull appearance
--- prevents off-colour results
--- produces more uniform, natural-looking colour in a tint
--- produces uniform colour when doing a tint back


Selecting Correct Colour Filler
- select colour filler that will replace the missing primary colour in your formulation
-- all 3 primaries (red, blue, yellow) must be present for natural-looking haircolour
- example: blonde (yellow) being tinted back to ash (yellow and blue) brown, use orange-red filler
- can apply directly from containers to damaged hair prior to tinting
- may be added to tint and applied to damaged ends

Fading Reds
- common problem with colour-treated red hair
- artificial pigment in hair shaft oxidizes and fades with every shampoo, blow-dry, permanent wave, exposure to sun, chlorine, or salt water
- use lower volume of hydrogen peroxide to prevent excessive fading and brassiness
- if desired depth of red is of same or deeper level than natural colour, hue achieved through deposit without excessive lift
- particularly useful in achieving and retaining violet-based reds
- for warmer or brighter (red-orange or gold) reds on darker natural levels => prelightening before application
-- lightening process naturally brings out warm contributing pigment, serve as ideal foundation for vibrant red colour
-- care not to overlighten hair => leaving hair dull, flat, lifeless colour tonality
- retouching with red-based tint: formula used to create correct amount of lift at new growth may produce too much lift if pulled through ends to refresh colour
-- red last longer if separate formula with deposit-only haircolour product applied to midshaft and ends
--- selection should correspond to tone and level used on new growth
--- strand test for correct colour choice

Tips for Reds
- use low-volume hydrogen peroxide
- prelighten darker hair to achieve brighter, warmer reds
- formulate correctly to achieve proper intensity of red
- performing retouch: always use permanent colour on new growth and refresh ends with deposit-only colour

Correct Brassiness and Other Unwanted Tones in Hair
- as artificial pigment fades, brassy red, orange, or gold notes may become apparent
- scheduling retouches at closer and closer intervals causes greater porosity and diffusion of natural pigment => brassier hair as tint fades
- FIRST: analyze hair
-- are brassy notes red, yellow, or orange?
-- locate shade on colour wheel and use complementary colour to neutralize it
-- options:
--- temporary rinses
--- soap cap during retouches
--- fillers
--- semipermanent or demipermanent colours of a neutralizing shade

Tint Removal
- change to lighter shade
- mistakes: colour build up or process too dark due to formulation error
- Colour or Tint Removers:
-- commercial prepared products designed to remove artificial pigment from hair
-- not generally sold to nonprofessionals => complex process
-- contain ingredients to diffuse pigment, both natural and artificial, sometimes mixed with hydrogen peroxide
--- others mixed with distilled water to create milder colour remover

Tint Back to Natural Colour
- sun, chlorinated pool water, prior chemical services alter hair colour
- each tinting procedure must be handled as a unique problem
- porous hair absorb colour quickly, process darker and cooler than expected, fade faster than normal
- natural pigment may be so diffused => not accept colour at all
- check hair for natural colour next to scalp
- record all observations and treatments on client's record card
- returning to natural hair colour from lighter colour may be drastic change
-- discuss options such as reverse highlighting or selection of colour 1 or 2 levels lighter than natural colour
--- gradually add more depth
--- strand test to ensure results
- use filler to even out the porosity and achieve colour correction
-- create formulation with enough warmth to prevent drab, unnatural looking colour in finished product
-- demipermanent, deposit-only colour = great choice

Soap cap
- combination of equal parts of prepared tint and shampoo
- applied to hair like shampoo
- used in conjunction with tint back to natural if tint does not exactly match natural colour
- quick soap cap will break line of demarcation
- patch test administered 24 hours prior to service, proceed if results negative

CAUTION: When performing tint removal service, never leave client unattended, as lightening may occur quite rapidly


CAUTION: Sometimes, hair is so overporous => insufficient protein bonds and natural melanin left within the cortex for artificial pigment to attach to.  Hair may look "gun-metal-grey" => danger sign. Hair that is this porous is very fragile and may be close to breaking point.


Salon Menu of Services
- Booking Time: how much time scheduled for performing service
- new clients need extra 15 minutes for consultation
- junior colourist need more time to perform services

Single-process colour and/or Colour enhancement
- lighten hair, cover up grey, enhance natural haircolour
- process for 20-45 minutes
- time between appointments: 4-6 weeks

Single-process retouch colour with a glaze
- 1st step: first colour is applied to base area or new growth processed for 30-45 minutes
- 2nd step: Glaze (demipermanent, aka overlay) - nonammonia colour that adds shine and tone to hair
-- rinse out first colour, glaze is applied at shampoo bowl processed for 10-15 minutes
- time between appointments: 4-6 weeks

Double-process colour
- creates very blonde hair
- hair is prelightened first, then toned with a toner or glaze
- process takes 45-90 minutes
- time between appointments: 4-5 weeks

Double-process retouch
- only base regrowth area is lightened with a lightener and then entire head is toned or glazed to refresh colour
- time between appointments: 4-5 weeks

Dimensional haircolour (Highlighting)
- strands of hair are isolated with foil or free-hand painting to create dimension or a variety of different colours in the hair
- Face-frame highlight:
-- easy way to introduce client to highlighting
-- face is framed with foils from ear to ear
-- glaze included adding tone and shine to new highlights and existing hair
-- processing time = 30 minutes
-- time between appointments: 8-12 weeks
- Half-head highlight:
-- foils placed on sides and top of head
-- glaze included to add tone and shine to new highlights and existing colour
-- processing time = 30-45 minutes
-- time between appointments: 8-12 weeks
- Three-quarter-head Highlight:
-- foils are placed on sides, top, and back of head to the occipital bone
-- glaze included
-- processing time = 45 minutes
-- time between appointments: 8-12 weeks
- Full-head highlight:
-- foils placed all over head
-- glaze included
-- processing time = 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes
-- time between appointments: 8-12 weeks
- Special effects highlighting (Creative colour technique):
-- any highlighting service not described above such as tone on tone, reverse highlighting, scrunching
-- consultation recommended and price determined
- Corrective Colour:
-- colour situations that require special attention over a series of visits
-- consultation advised to determine time and cost involved

Haircolouring Safety Precautions
- give patch test 24 hours prior to ny application of aniline derivative. Apply tint only if patch test negative
- do NOT apply tint if abrasions present
- do NOT apply tint if metallic or compound tint is present
- do NOT brush hair prior to applying colour
- always read and follow all manufacturer's directions
- use sanitized applicator bottles, brushes, combs, and towels
- protect your client's clothing with proper draping
- perform strand test for colour, breakage, and/or discolouration
- use applicator bottle or bowl (glass or plastic) for mixing tint
- do NOT mix tint before you are ready to use it; discard leftover tint
- wear gloves to protect hands
- do NOT permit colour to come in contact with client's eyes
- do NOT overlap during a tint retouch
- use mild shampoo, an alkaline or harsh shampoo will strip colour
- always wash hands before and after serving client

CAUTION: Operator dermatitis, involves same types of negative reactions to chemicals as those a client may experience.  Wear gloves!

Procedure 40 - Preliminary Strand Test

Implements & Materials
- tint cape
- plastic clips
- glass or plastic mixing bowl
- spray water bottle
- shampoo
- towels
- colour brushes
- protective gloves
- aluminum foil or plastic wrap
- client record card
- selected tint
- tint brush or bottle
- hydrogen peroxide developer

Procedure
1. Client consultation. Perform scalp & hair analysis
2. Drape client to protect skin and clothing
3. Part off 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) square strand of hair in lower crown. Using plastic clips as necessary, fasten other hair out of the way
4. Place stand over foil or plastic wrap and apply mixture.  Follow application method for colour procedure you will be using
5. Check development at 5-minute intervals until desired colour achieved.  Note timing on record card
6. When satisfactory colour has developed, remove protective foil or plastic wrap.  Place towel under strand, mist it thoroughly with water, add shampoo, and massage through.  Rinse by spraying with water.  Dry strand with towel and observe results
7. Adjust formula, timing, or application method as necessary and proceed with colour service

CAUTION: Do not perform any haircolouring service if client has abrasions or inflammations on scalp. Do NOT brush hair.

Procedure 41 - Temporary Haircolour Application

Implementation and Maerials
- shampoo cape
- towels
- potective gloves
- comb
- applicator bottle (optional)
- temporary haircolour product
- shampoo
- record card
- gloves
- timer

Preparation
1. Perform client consultation
2. Ask client to remove jewelry and keep in safe place
3. Drape client for haircolouring service.  Slide towel down from back of client's head and place lengthwise across client's shoulders.  Cross ends of towel beneath chin and place cape over towel.  Fasten cape in back.  Fold towel over top of cape and secure in front 
4. Shampoo and towel-dry hair

Procedure
1. Client comfortable reclined at shampoo bowl, put on gloves.  Use applicator bottle. Shake product thoroughly to blend any pigments that may have settled.  Apply colour and work it around entire head
2. Blend colour with comb, applying more colour as necessary
3. Do not rinse hair.  Towel-blot excess product
4. Proceed with styling

Cleanup and Sanitation
1. Discard all disposable supplies and materials
2. Close containers, wipe them off, and store in proper place
3. Sanitize implements, cape, and workstation
4. Wash hands with soap and warm water
5. Record results on record card and file away

Procedure 42 - Semipermanent Haircolour Application

Implements & Materials
- applicator bottle or brush
- towels
- plastic cap (optional)
- plastic slips
- tint cape
- cotton
- protective cream
- protective gloves
- shampoo
- record card
- comb
- colour chart
- selected colour
- conditioner
- timer

Preparation
1. Perform a preliminary patch test 24 hours before service.  proceed only if the test is negative
2. Client consultation.  Thoroughly analyze hair and scalp. Record results on client's record card
3. Ask client to remove all jewelry and store in safe place.  Drape client for haircolour service
4. Apply protective cream around hairline and over ears
5. Perform strand test.  Record results on client's card

Procedure
1. Shampoo client's hair with mild shampoo, if required.  Towel-dry hair
2. Part hair into 4 sections. Put on protective gloves
3. Working with 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch (.6cm to 1.25cm) subsections, apply semipermanent colour to the entire hair shaft.  Start near scalp and gently work colour through ends.  Apply with bottle or brush, depending on consistency of colour.
4. Pile hair loosely on top of head
5. Follow manufacturer's directions with regard to process options.  Some colour require use of plastic cap
6. Process according to strand test results
7. Follow timing instructions provided by manufacturer.  When colour has developed, wet client's hair with warm water and lather
8. Rinse well, then shampoo.  Finish with conditioner
9. Rinse and towel-blot hair. Style as desired

Cleanup and Sanitation
1. Perform cleanup as in procedure for temporary colour rinse
2. In addition, rinse plastic bottles, bowls, and brushes and disinfect according to your state's regulations
3. Compete record card and file away


Procedure 43 - Single-Process Colour for Virgin Hair

Implements & Materials
- Use list under procedure 42
- plastic or glass bowl and applicator brush or applicator bottle
- selected permanent haircolour
- hydrogen peroxide

Preparation
- Same as procedure 42 including patch test

Procedure
1. Part dry hair into 4 sections
2. Apply protective cream to hairline and ears
3. Prepare tint formula for either bottle or brush application
4. Begin section where colour change will be greatest or where hair is most resistant, usually hairline and temple areas.  part off a 1/4 inch (.6cm) subsection with applicator
5. Lift subsection and apply colour to the midshaft area.  Stay at least 1/2 inch (1.25cm) from the scalp, and do not go through porous ends

TIP: hair at the scalp processes faster due to body heat.  Colour is applied in scalp area only after being applied to shaft.  Your strand test will determine the application procedure and timing for even colour development

6. Process according to strand test results.  Check for colour development by removing colour as described in strand test procedure
7. Apply colour to hair at scalp
8. Pull colour through onto hair ends
9. Lightly rinse with lukewarm water.  massage colour into a lather and rinse thoroughly
10. Remove any stains around hairline with shampoo or stain remover.  Use towel to gently remove stains
11. Shampoo hair.  Condition as needed
12. Towel-dry and style hair
13. Perform cleanup and sanitation as in procedure for semipermanent haircolour application
14. Complete client's record card and file away
15. Follow cleanup and sanitation procedure for procedure 42


Procedure 44 - Lightening Virgin Hair

Implements & Materials
- towels
- comb
- protective gloves
- platic clips
- tint cape
- plastic or glass bowl
- shampoo
- peroxide
- acid or finishing rinse
- cotton
- record card
- applicator bottle or brush
- lightener
- timer
- protective cream

Preparation
- Same as procedure 42 including patch test.  Carefully analyze hair and record all information on client card

Procedure
1. Divide dry hair in 4 sections
2. Apply protective cream around hairline and over ears
3. Put on protective gloves
4. Prepare lightening formula and use it immediately to prevent deterioration
5. Apply lightener.  Begin application where hair seems resistant or especially dark, usually at the back of head.  Use 1/8 inch (.3cm) partings to apply the lightener.  Start 1/2 inch (1.25cm) from the scalp and extend lightener up to, but not through, porous ends.  Apply lightener to top and underside of subsection in quick rhythmic movements
6. Place strips of cotton at scalp area along parts to prevent lightener from touching base of hair.  Complete all 4 sections in this manner
7. Continue to apply lightener. Double-check application, adding more lightener if necessary.  Do not comb lightener through hair.  keep lightener moist during development by reapplying as the mixture dries on the hair
8. Check for lightening action about 15 minutes before time indicated by preliminary strand test.  Spray air strand with water bottle and remove lightener with damp towel.  Examine strand.  If strand is not light enough, reapply mixture and continue testing frequency until desire level reached
9. Remove cotton from scalp area.  Apply lightener to hair near scalp with 1/8 inch (.3cm) parting. Prepare fresh lightener.  process and perform your stand test until entire shaft has reached desired stage
10. Rinse hair thoroughly with tepid water. Shampoo gently and condition as needed, keeping your hands under hair to avoid tangling
11. Neutralize alkalinity of hair with conditioner.  Recondition if necessary
12. Towel-dry hair, or dry it completely under a cool dryer if manufacturer requires it
13. Examine scalp for any abrasions.  Analyze condition of hair
14. Proceed with toner application if desired
15. Perform cleanup and sanitation as in procedure 42


Procedure 45 - Toner Application

Implements & Materials
- towels
- tail comb
- protective gloves
- plastic clips
- tint cape
- plastic or glass bowl
- shampoo
- peroxide
- acid or finishing rinse
- cotton
- protective cream
- record card
- toner
- applicator bottle or brush
- timer

Preparation
1. Prelighten hair to desired stage of decolorization
2. Shampoo hair lightly, rinse, and towel-dry. Condition as necessary
3. Select desired toner shade
4. Apply protective cream around hairline and over ears
5. Take stand test and record results on client's record card
6. If using oxidative toner, mix toner and developer in a nonmetallic bowl or bottle, following manufacturer's directions

Procedure
1. Part hair into 4 equal sections, using end of tail comb or tint brush.  Avoid scratching scalp
2. At crown of one of back sections, part off 1/4 inch (.6cm) partings and apply toner from scalp up to, but not including, porous ends
3. Take strand test.  If indicates proper colour development, gently work toner through ends of hair, using brush or fingers
4. If necessary for coverage, apply additional toner to hair and blend it in.  Leave hair loosely piled to permit air circulation or cover hair with a cap if required
5. Time procedure according to strand test. Check frequently until desired shade has been reached evenly throughout shaft and ends
6. Remove toner by wetting hair and massaging toner into lather
7. Rinse, shampoo gently , and rinse well again
8. Apply conditioner to close the cuticle, lower pH, and help prevent fading
9. Remove any toner stains from skin, hairline, and neck
10. Style as desired.  Use caution to avoid streching hair
11. Perform cleanup and sanitation as in procedure 42

TIP: Do not bring toner mixture down through porous ends until end of procedure, and then only if you are planning to change the tonal value or you are correcting significant fading.  To do so will only make hair even more porous and more susceptible to continued fading

CAUTION: In all procedures requiring use of towel to check for lightening level, make sure that towel is damp.  Blot - do not rub - strand.  Rubbing could cause roughening of cuticle, giving false reading for entire process


Procedure 46 - Special Effects Haircolouring with Foil

Implements & Materials
- tint cape
- towel
- foil
- gloves
- plastic clips
- bowl/brushes
- tail comb
- brush
- lightener
- record card
- applicator bottle

Preparation
- same as procedure 44 including patch test (if toner will be applied) and strand test.  Carefully analyze hair and record all information on client card

Procedure
1. With tail comb, take a slice of hair at lower crown area of head
2. Place piece of foil under slice of hair
3. Holding hair taut, brush on lightener, from upper edge of foil to hair ends
4. Fold foil in half until ends meet
5. Fold right side of foil halfway, using comb to crease it.  Fold left side of foil halfway
6. Clip foil upward
7. Take 3/4 inch (1.8cm) subsection in between foils.  Clip this hair up and out of way (Note the contrast in size between the foiled and unfoiled subsections)
8. continue working down the back center of head until section is complete
9. Once section is complete, release clipped-up foils
10. Working around head into side area, divide it into 2 smaller sections
11. Working down side, bring fine slices of hair into the foil and apply lightener to hair.  Clip up foil
12. Move to other side of head and complete matching sections
13. Move to top of head.  Take a fine slice of hair off top of a large section, place it on foil, apply lightener
14. Part out larger section, take a fine slice from top of this section.  Apply lightener
15. Continue toward front until last foil is placed
16. Allow lightener to process according to strand test.  Check foils to see if you've achieved desired lightness
17. Remove foils one at a time at the shampoo area.  Rinse hair immediately to prevent colour from affecting untreated hair
18. Apply haircolor glaze to hair, from base to ends
19. Work glae into hair to make sure it is completely saturated.  Process up to 20 minutes
20. Rinse hair.  Shampoo and condition
21. Style hair as desired
22. Perform cleanup and sanitation as in procedure 42

Notes for Chemical Texture Services

Chemical Texture Services
- permanently alters natural wave pattern of hair through chemical change.

Texture Services
- curl & add volume to straight hair
- straighten overly curly hair
- soften coarse, straight hair

- permanent waving
- soft curl permanents (curl re-forming)
- chemical hair relaxing


The Structure of Hair

Cuticle
- tough other layer of hair
- protects hair from damage
- Resistant hair: strong compact cuticle resists penetration => difficult to service
- chemicals must penetrate through cuticle to be effective


Chemical hair texturizers
- changes hair's natural curl pattern
- alkaline solutions soften and swell hair, raising cuticle to allow solution to target cortex
- highly alkaline (high pH) texturizer for coarse resistant hair
- less alkaline (lower pH) solution for more porous, damaged, or chemically treated hair


Cortex
- middle layer of hair beneath cuticle
- polypeptide chains of cortex are connected by end bonds and cross-linked by side bonds (form the fibres and structure of hair)


Side and End Bonds
- hold hair in natural wave pattern
- responsible for incredible strength and elasticity of hair
- breaking side bonds of the cortex changes natural wave patter of hair

Peptide Bonds (End Bonds)
- chemical bonds that join amino acids
- Polypeptide chain (i.e. Proteins): peptide bonds link together to form long chains of amino acids

PEPTIDE BONDS SHOULD NOT BE BROKEN DURING ANY SALON SERVICE
- breaks and weakens hair

Side Bonds (Cross Bonds)
- 3 bonds: disulfide, salt, hydrogen
- wet setting, thermal styling, permanent waving, soft curl permanents and chemical hair relaxing

Disulfide Bonds
- permanent waving, soft curl permanents (curl re-forming) and chemical hair relaxing
- strong chemical side bonds not broken by heat or water
- formed between two cysteine amino acids on polypeptide chains
- joins a cysteine sulfur atom on one polypeptide chain with a 2nd cysteine sulfer atom on another polypeptide chain to form cystine
-- Cystine: oxidized form of cysteine
- weaker than peptide bonds
- strongest of side bonds
- fewer disulfide bonds than hydrogen or salt bonds
- account for 1/3 overall strength of hair

Salt Bonds
- permanent waving, and re-form (when pH returns to normal)
- relatively weak physical side bonds, attraction between opposite electrical charges
- easily broken by changes in pH
- account for 1/3 overall strength of hair

Hydrogen Bonds
- wet setting, or thermal styling (heat) and re-form (as hair dries or cools)
- relatively weak physical side bonds, attraction between opposite electrical charges
- easily broken by water
- account for 1/3 overall strength of hair

Wet Set
- physical change from breaking and re-forming hydrogen bonds
- wetting hair breaks hydrogen bonds and permits stretching and rolling
- drying hair removes water and re-forms hydrogen bonds to new shape
- return to original shape when wet or exposed to high humidity

Thermal Styling
- hair dryers, curling irons, pressing combs
- physical change that breaks down hydrogen bonds
- return to original shape when wet


Client Consultation
- first determine exactly what client expects and what is possible
- COMMUNICATE!
- always greet your client by name and introduce yourself
- ask open-ended questions
- find out why client wants texture service and expectations
- look at pictures with client
- ask about past texture services (What they liked and disliked)
- how do client currently style hair and discuss changes resulting from texture service
- determine finished hairstyle considering haircut and degree of texture or relaxing needed
- evaluate condition, texture, and wave pattern of hair to make sure desired style is possible
- fill out Permanent Wave Record to document condition of hair and desired outcome

Client Records
- include complete evaluation of length, texture, colour, and condition of hair prior to service, and results expected
- determine previous problems or adverse reactions clients had in past
- must be reevaluated prior to each service due to changes in client history or formulation of product
- include type of perm, type & size of perm tools (rods), base direction, base control, wrapping technique, wrapping pattern, processing time, and results acheived

Client Release Form
- some schools / salons require signing this before receiving chemical service
- does not release school / salon from all responsibilities
- indicate that client knew of possible damage to hair or unexpected adverse reaction

Scalp Analysis
- always be performed prior to chemical service
- look for cuts, scratches, or open sores
- do not proceed with service if there are any skin abrasions or signs of scalp disease
- refer client to a physician as necessary

Hair Analysis
- hair is fastest growing appendage on human body
- diet, exercise, medications, and stress all affect hair growth
- quality of permanent wave is directly related to quality of hair
- determines how hair will react to service and avoid most problems
- consider condition, texture, and wave pattern of hair when selecting type of relaxer, perm, type & size of perm tool and the wrapping method
- factors: texture, density, porosity, elasticity, growth direction

Hair Texture
- diameter of a single strand of hair
- differs from strand to strand
- feel a single dry strand between fingers - Coarse Hair:
-- require more processing than medium or fine
-- more resistant
-- more difficult for permanent waving solution to penetrate
- Medium Hair:
-- most common hair texture
-- consider normal
-- no special problems nor concerns
- Fine Hair:
-- easier and faster to process
-- more susceptible to damage from perm services

Hair Density
- measures number of strands of hair on head, indicating think or thin
- same hair texture can have different densities

Hair Porosity
- ability of hair to absorb moisture, directly relating to condition of cuticle layer
- Resistant Hair:
-- tight, compact cuticle layer that resists penetration
-- chemical services performed require more alkaline solution
-- high pH raises cuticle and permits uniform saturation & processing
-- requires slow and thorough application of perm solution to ensure complete saturation
- Hair with Normal Porosity:
-- neither resistant nor overly porous
-- texture services performed will process as expected
- Overly Porous Hair:
-- raised cuticle layer that easily absorbs solution
-- chemical services performed require less alkaline solution
-- lower pH minimizes swelling prevents excessive damage to hair

Hair Elasticity
- indication of strength of side bonds that hold individual fibres of hair in place
- determines ability to hold curl
- Normal Elasticity:
-- wet hair can stretch up to 50% of original length and return without breaking
-- holds curl from wet sets and permanent waves
- Low Elasticity:
-- wet hair does not return to original length when stretched
-- may not hold curl from wet sets and permanent waves

Direction of Hair Growth
- individual growth direction of hair causes hair streams, whorls, and cowlicks
- influences finished hairstyle
- must be considered when selecting base direction and wrapping patter for each permanent wave

Permanent Waving
Two-step process
1. Physical change caused by wrapping hair on perm rods
2. Chemical change by permanent waving solution and neutralizer

Perm Wrap
- in permanent waving, size, shape, and type of curl are determined by size, shape, and type of tool used in wrapping hair
- permanent waving solution softens hair, conforming to shape it was wrapped
- perm wrap is a wet set on perm rods instead of rollers
- wet set breaks hydrogen bonds, permanent wave breaks disulfide bonds
- size of perm tool determines size of curl
- wrapping hair on small tools increases tension => increases amount of curl
- tension produces curl, but too much tension can mark or break hair
- keep hair wet while wrapping
- wrap with uniform, even tension

Sectioning
- begin with sectioning hair into panels
- Base Sections: further subdivision of each panel
-- one tool on each base section
-- size of base section is the length & width of tool used

Base Control
- position of the tool in relation to base section
- determined by angle the hair is wrapped
- On-base Placement:
-- hair is wrapped 45 degrees beyond perpendicular to base section
-- tool is placed on its base section
-- result in greater volume but gone when hair grows out
-- caution: additional stress and tension on hair => may damage or break hair
- Half-off-base placement:
-- wrapping hair at 90 degrees (perpendicular) to base section
-- tool is positioned half of its base section
-- minimizes stress and tension of hair
- Off-base placement:
-- wrapping hair at 45 degrees below perpendicular to base section
-- tool is placed completely off its base section
-- least amount of volume and results in a curl pattern beginning farthest away from scalp

Base Direction
- angle at which tool is positioned on head
- horizontally
- vertically
- diagonally
- refers to directional pattern hair is wrapped
- directional wraps can be backward, forward, or to one side
- wrapping with natural direction of hair growth causes least amount of stress to hair
- wrapping against natural growth pattern causes excess stress, damaging or breaking hair

Wrapping Techniques
- two basic methods
- Croquignole Perms:
-- hair strands are wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping layers
-- hair is wrapped perpendicular to the length of tool, each new layer is wrapped toward scalp on top of previous layer
-- increases effective size of tool when each overlap
-- produces tighter curl at the ends and larger curls at the scalp
-- longer, thicker hair increase this effect
- Spiral Perms:
-- hair is wound from ends to scalp or from scalp to ends (no difference)
-- hair is wrapped at angle other than perpendicular to length of tool, spiralling along the length of tool
-- layers may partially overlap preceding layers, keeping angle constant, the overlap will be uniform
-- causes effective size of tool to remain the same along entire length of strand
-- longer, thicker hair results in uniform curls


Perm Tools
- size of tool determines size of curl
- shape and type of tool and wrapping method determines shape and type of curl

Type of Rods
- Concave Rods:
-- most common type of perm rod
-- used with croquignole wrapping technique
-- smaller circumference in center and increases to larger circumference at ends
-- produce tighter curls in center and looser, larger curls on either side of the strand
- Straight Rods:
-- used with croquignole wrapping
-- equal circumference along the entire length of tool
-- produce a uniform curl along the entire width of strand
-- long straight rods can be used with a spiral wrapping technique, the length accommodate hair length
-- short rods fit closer to the rounded curvatures of the head and for small awkward sections

Other Perm Tools
- Soft Bender Rods:
-- 12 inches long with uniform diameter
-- stiff wire inside permitting bending
-- used with either croquignole or spiral wrapping technique
- Circle Tool or Loop Rod:
-- 12 inches long with uniform diameter
-- ideal for spiral wrapping extremely long hair
-- rod is secured by fastening ends together to form circle

End Papers (End Wraps)
- absorbent papers used to control ends of hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm tools
- should extend beyond ends of hair to keep them smooth, straight and prevent "fishhooks"
- Double Flat Wrap:
-- uses 2 end papers
-- one placed under and one over strand of hair being wrapped
-- papers extend past the hair ends
-- provide most control over hair ends and keep them evenly distributed over entire length of the tool
- Single Flat Wrap:
-- uses 1 end paper
-- placed over top of the strand
- Bookend Wrap:
-- uses 1 end paper folded in half
-- prefolded end papers available
-- eliminates excess paper and used with short rods or very short lengths of hair
--avoid bunching ends together toward center of rod

The Chemistry of Permanent Waving
- alkaline permanent waving solution softens and swells hair, raises cuticle & permits solution to penetrate cortex
- degree of alkalinity (pH) is a 2nd factor in overall strength of permanent waving solution
- alkalinity (pH) of the perm solution should correspond to the resistance, strength, and porosity of the cuticle layer

Reduction:
- a chemical reaction that breaks disulfide bonds using waving solution
- involves addition of hydrogen or removal of oxygen
- reduction reaction in permanent waving is due to addition of hydrogen

1. disulfide bond joins a sulfur atom on one polypeptide chain with a 2nd sulfur atom on another polypeptide chain
2. permanent waving solution breaks a disulfide bond by adding a hydrogen atom to each of the sulfur atoms in the disulfide bond
3. The sulfur attach to hydrogen and breaks the attachment to each other
4. The disulfide bond is broken and the polypeptide chains are able to slip into their new curled shape

Thioglycolic Acid:
- reducing agents used in permanent waving solutions are thiol compounds
- colourless liquid with strong unpleasant odour
- provides hydrogen that causes reduction reaction in permanent waving solutions
- strength of permanent waving solution is determined by the concentration of thio (greater number of hydrogen atoms)
- more hydrogen atoms breaks more disulfide bonds
- acid do not swell hair or penetrate into cortex => must add alkalizing agent
- Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG):
-- addition of ammonia to thioglycolic acid
-- main active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents

Types of Permanent Waves
- Alkaline Waves (Cold Waves):
-- first developed in 1941 used ATG
-- process at room temperature
-- have pH between 9.0 and 9.6
- True Acid Waves:
-- first introduced in 1970s
-- pH between 4.5 and 7.0
-- require heat to speed processing
-- Glyceryl Monothioglycolate (GMTG): main active ingredient, an acid with low pH
-- cause less damage
-- process more slowly
-- may require added heat of a hair dryer
-- do not usually produce a firm a curl as alkaline waves
-- may cause allergic sensitivity in both hairstylist and clients

AVERAGE pH of HAIR is 5.0
- even though pH of 7.0 is neutral, pH of 5.0 is neutral for hair
- every step in pH scale represents a TENFOLD change in pH
- a pH of 7.0 is 100 times more alkaline than the pH of 5.0 hair
- even pure water with pH of 7.0 can damage hair causing it to swell

Acid-Balanced Waves (Modern Acid Waves)
- permit processing at room temperature and produce firmer curl, the pH of acid waves increased between 7.8 and 8.2
- GMTG is primary reducing agent but may also include ATG

Acid Waves Components:
1. Permanent waving solution
2. Activator (contains GMTG), added to permanent waving solution immediately before use
3. Neutralizer


Exothermic Waves
- create exothermic chemical reaction that heats up solution and speeds processing
-- absorbs heat from surroundings
- activated by outside heat source, conventional hood-type hair dryer
- not process properly at room temperature
- most true acid waves are endothermic and require added heat

1. Permanent waving solution (containing thio)
2. Activator (contains oxidizing agent i.e. hydrogen peroxide)
- added to permanent waving solution immediately before use
- causes rapid release of heat and increase in temperature of solution
- increased temperature increases rate of chemical reaction and shortens processing time
3. Neutralizer

CAUTION: Accidentally mixing the contents of the activator tube with the neutralizer instead of the permanent waving solution will cause a violent chemical reaction that can cause injury especially to the eyes

Ammonia-Free Waves
- use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia
- very little odour
- Examples of Alkanolamines used in permanent waving solutions as substitute for ammonia
-- Aminomethylpropanol (AMP)
-- Monoethanolamine (MEA)
- still every bit as alkaline and just as damaging

Thio-Free Waves
- use an ingredient other than ATG as primary reducing agent
- common thio-free waves rely on cysteamine or mercaptamine
- still are thio compounds
- marketed as damage-free
-- at a high concentration, reducing agents in thio-free waves can be just as damaging as thio

Low-pH Waves
- use of sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites as alternative to ATG
- work at low pH but not very popular
- very weak and do not provide a firm curl, especially on strong or resistant hair
- usually marketed s body waves or alternative waves

CAUTION: The ingredients, stength, and pH of permanent wave solutions from different manufacturers may vary considerably, even within the same category.  Always check the manufacturer's instructions and MSDS for accurate, detailed information.

Selecting Right Type of Perm
- after thorough consultation, determine which type of permanent is best suited to client's hair type, condition, and desired results


Permanent Wave Processing
- strength of any permanent wave is based on concentration of its reducing agent
- amount of processing is determined by strength of permanent waving solution, not necessary how long the perm process
-- need enough hydrogen atoms to breakdown disulfide bonds
- most of the processing takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair, within first 5 to 10 minutes
- additional processing time allows the polypeptide chains to shift into their new configuration


Overprocessed Hair
- If hair overprocessed, it probably happened within the first 5 to 10 minutes of service and a weaker permanent waving solution should have been used
- if hair not sufficiently processed after 10 minutes, may require reapplication of solution
-- resistant hair requires stronger solution and more thorough saturation
- thorough saturation with stronger solution will break more disulfide bonds and process hair more
- processing hair more does not translate into more curl
- properly processed permanent wave should break and rebuild approximately 50% of hair's disulfide bonds
- too many disulfide bonds broken: hair will be too weak to hold a firm curl or be totally straight
- hair at scalp is usually stronger, overprocessed hair will be curlier at scalp and straighter at ends
- processing overprocessed hair will make it straighter

Underprocessed Hair
- too few disulfide bonds broken: hair not sufficiently softened to take hold of desired curl
- very weak curl or be straight
- hair at scalp is usually stronger, underprocessed hair will be straighter at scalp and curlier at ends
- processing underprocessed hair will make hair curlier


Permanent Waving Neutralization
- Neutralization:
-- a process of stopping the action of a permanent wave solution and hardening hair in its new form using a neutralizer (chemical solution)
-- 1. Deactivates (neutralizes) any waving solutions that remains in hair
-- 2. Rebuilds disulfide bonds broken by waving solution
- Neutralizers:
-- used in permanent waving are oxidizers
-- chemical reaction involved is oxidation
-- most common neutralizer is hydrogen peroxide
-- concentration vary between 5 volume (1.5 percent) and 10 volume (3 percent)

Neutralization: Stage One
- deactivation or neutralization of any waving lotion that remains in hair after processing and rinsing
- oxidation reactions can also lighten hair colour, especially at an alkaline pH
- always rinse perm solution from hair for at least 5 minutes before applying neutralizer, to avoid scalp irritation and unwanted lightening of hair colour
- blot hair with towels and each rod several times to remove as much moisture as possible before applying neutralizer
-- excess water left in hair prevents even saturation and dilutes neutralizer
- some manufacturers recommend preneutralizing conditioner after blotting (optional step)
-- an acidic liquid protein condition can be applied and dried under a warm hair dryer for 5 minutes or more prior to neutralization
-- very beneficial for damaged hair => strengthens hair

Neutralization: Stage Two
- waving solution breaks disulfide bonds by adding hydrogen atoms to sulfur atoms in disulfide bonds
- neutralization rebuilds disulfide bonds by removing extra hydrogen atoms
- hydrogen atoms in disulfide bonds are so attracted to the oxygen in the neutralizer, they release sulfur and join with oxygen
- each oxygen atom joins with 2 hydrogen atoms to rebuild one disulfide bond and make one molecule of water.
- each sulfur atom forms a bond with its nearest neighbouring sulfur atom
- water is removed in the final rinse and the disulfide bond form in their new curled position
- the strength of newly formed disulfide bond pairs hold hair in its new shape

Post-Perm Hair Care
- although most hairstylists recommend 3-day waiting period before shampooing freshly permed hair, a properly neutralized perm is stable
- shampooing a properly process permanent with mild acid-balanced shampoos should not cause excessive relaxation or damage to hair or scalp
- unless there are signs of scalp irritation, modern demipermanent, deposit-only haircolours are safe to use on freshly permed hair

Safety Precautions for Permanent Waving
- Always protect your client's clothing. Have client change into a gown, use waterproof shampoo cape, double drape with towels to absorb accidental spills
- Do not give a permanent to any client who has experienced an allergic reaction to a previous permanent
- Do not save any opened, unused waving lotion or neutralizer
- Do not dilute or add anything to the waving lotion or neutralizer unless specified in directions
- Keep waving lotion out of the client's eyes and skin. Rinse thoroughly with water if exposed
- Always follow manufacturer's directions
- Wear gloves when applying solutions
- Immediately replace cotton or towels that have become wet with solution
- Always examine scalp before perm service. Do not proceed if there are any skin abrasions or any signs of scalp disease
- Do not perm hair that is excessively damaged or show signs of breakage
- Do not attempt to perm hair that has been previously treated with hydroxide relaxers
- Always perform a test for metallic salts if there is a possibility that metallic haircolour was used on the hair previously
- Always apply protective barrier cream around the client's hairline and ears prior to applying permanent waving solution
- hair should be giving reconditioning treatments until the condition improves and the damaged hair can be cut off

Metallic Salts
- some home haircolouring products contain metallic salts not compatible with permanent waving
- leave coating on hair that may cause uneven curls, severe discoloration or hair breakage
- commonly found in men's haircolour sold for home use
- found in haircolour restorers and progressive haircolours that darken hair gradually with repeated applications


Metallic Salt Test
1. In glass or plastic bowl, mix 1 oz of 20 volume peroxide with 20 drops of 28% ammonia
2. Immerse at least 20 strands of hair in the solution for 30 minutes.

If metallic salts are not present, hair will lighten slightly and proceed with service.
If metallic salts are present, hair will lighten rapidly. The solution may get hot and give off an unpleasant odour, do not proceed with service.


Permanent Waving Procedures

Basic Perm Warp (Straight Set Wrap)
- all tools within panel move in the same direction
- positioned on equal-size bases
- all base sections are horizontal, same length & width as perm tool
- base control: half off base

Curvature Perm Wrap
- movement curves within sectioned-out panels
- follow curvature of head
- use pie-shaped base sections


Bricklay Perm Wrap
- base sections are offset from each other row by row
-- prevents noticeable splits and to blend the flow of hair
- different bricklay patterns use different starting points
-- front hairline, occipital area, crown
-- affect directional flow of hair
- can be used with different combinations of sectioning, base control, base direction, wrapping techniques, and perm tools


Weave Technique
- zigzag partings to divide base areas
- can be kept to selected areas
- effective for blending between perm rods with opposite base direction
- create smooth transition from rolled areas into unrolled areas of partial perm
- used with variety of base directions, wrapping patterns, and perm tools


Double Tool Technique (Piggyback Wrap)
- 2 tools used for one strand of hair, one on top of the other
- doubles number of tools used
- increases amount of curl in hair
- effective on long hair
- tools with different diameters create different effects
- used with variety of base directions, wrapping patterns, and perm tools


Spiral Perm Technique (Spiral Perm Wrap)
- hair wrapped at angle causing it to spiral along length of tool, like grip on tennis racquet
- layers may partially overlap, if constant angle then uniform effect
- effective size of tool remains constant => uniform curl from scalp to ends
- benefits longer, thicker hair
- used with variety of base sections, base directions, and wrapping patterns
- base sections can be horizontal or vertical => do not affect finished curl
- conventional rods, bendable soft foam rods, circle tool can be used depending on length of hair

Preliminary Test Curls
- predict how our client's hair will react to perm
- do if hair is damaged or if you are uncertain about results
- correct processing time for optimal curl development
- results you can expect from the type of perm solution you have selected
- curl results for the tool size and wrapping technique you are planning to use

Partial Perms
- clients who have long hair on to top and crown, but very short hair with tapered sides and nape
- need volume and lift in certain areas
- hairstyle with curls along perimeter but a smooth sleek crown
- use larger tool for the last tool next to an unrolled section => create smooth transition from rolled to unrolled section
- apply waving lotion to unrolled hair may straighten it or make it difficult to style
-- protect unrolled hair by applying protective barrier cream to the unrolled section before applying wave lotion

Perms for Men
- add texture, fullness, style and low maintenance that only perm provide
- make thin hair look fuller
- make straight or coarse hair more manageable
- control stubborn cowlicks


Chemical Hair Relaxers

Chemical Hair Relaxing 
- process of rearranging basic structure of extremely curly hair into straight form
- chemistry of thio relaxers and permanent waving is exactly same
- chemistry of hydroxide relaxers and permanent waving differ
- all relaxers and permanents change shape of hair by breaking disulfide bonds
- 2 most common types of chemical hair relaxers: thio (ATG) and hydroxide

Extremely Curly Hair
- extremely curly hair exists in all races
- grows in long twisted spirals or coils
- cross-sections are highly elliptical and vary in shape and thickness along their lengths
- is irregular exhibiting varying diameters along a single strand
-- Wavy hair actually has regular and uniform diameter
- Thinnest and weakest sections of hair strands located at their twists
-- also bent at extremely sharp angle
-- stretched most during relaxing
- usually breaks at twists: inherent weakness and extra physical force require to straighten hair

Thio Relaxers 
- usually have pH above 10 and a higher concentration of ATG than in permanent waving
- thicker, with higher viscosity (thickness) suitable for application as a relaxer
- breaks disulfide bonds and softens hair
-- after enough bonds are broken, hair is straightened into new shape and relaxer is rinsed
-- blotting next, followed by neutralizer

Thio Neutralization
- oxidizing agent (usually hydrogen peroxide)
- oxidation reaction rebuilds disulfide bonds broken by thio relaxer

Hydroxide Relaxers
- hydroxide ion => active ingredient
- sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and guanidine hydroxide
- very strong alkalis swelling hair up to twice normal diameter
- NOT compatible with thio relaxers (different chemistry)
- pH of over 13.0
-- if hair is pH 5.0 => this is 100 million times more alkaline than hair
- Lanthionization: remove one atom of sulfur from a disulfide bond, converting it into a lanthionine bond 
- disulfide bond contain 2 sulfur attoms, lanthionine bonds contain only 1 sulfur atom
- disulfide bond broken by hydroxide relaxers are broken permanently and can NEVER be reformed

Hydroxide Neutralization
- does not involve oxidation
- deactivation (neutralization) or hydroxide relaxers neutralizes alkaline residues left in hair by relaxer
- hair remains at extremely high pH even after rinsing
-- rinsing alone does NOT deactivate relaxer or restore normal acidic p of hair and scalp
- acids neutralize alkalis => acid-balanced shampoo or normalizing lotion neutralizes any remaining hydroxide ions to lower pH of hair and scalp
-- some neutralizing shampoos for use after hydroxide relaxers have a built-in pH indicator changing colour to indicate when pH of hair returns to normal
- since disulfide bonds cannot be reformed after hydroxide relaxers, using neutralizer that contains oxidizing agent will not rebuild disulfide bonds and only damage hair

Types of Hydroxide Relaxers
- Metal Hydroxide Relaxers:
-- ionic compounds formed by metal - sodium (Na), potassium (K), or lithium (Li), combined with oxygen (O) and hydrogen (H)
-- Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) (Lye Relaxers, Lye or Caustic Soda):
--- oldest and most common chemical hair relaxer
--- same chemical used in drain cleaners and chemical hair depilatories
-- Potassium Hydroxide (KOH), and Lithium Hydroxide (LiOH):
--- advertised and sold as "no mix-no lye" relaxers
--- no lye but chemistry is identical => very little difference in performance
-- calcium hydroxide (CaOH) sometimes added but not used by itself
-- contain only one component
-- used exactly as packaged without mixing
-- hydroxide ion => active ingredient

Guanidine Hydroxide Relaxers
- advertised and sold as "no lye" relaxers
- hydroxide ion => active ingredient
- contains 2 components that must be mixed immediately prior to use
- straighten hair completely with less scalp irritation than other hydroxide relaxers
-- recommended for sensitive scalps and sold over-the-counter for home use
-- do not reduce hair damage
- swell hair slightly more than other hydroxide relaxers
- more drying, especially after repeated applications

Low-pH Relaxers
- sulfites and bisulfites sometimes used as low-pH hair relaxers
- most commonly used: ammonium sulfite and ammonium bisulfite
- sulfites marketed as alternative relaxers
- compatible with thio relaxers but NOT hydroxide relaxers
- do not completely straighten extremely curly hair
- intended for use on colour-treated, damaged, or fine hair

Base and No-Base Relaxers (for hydroxide relaxers)
- hydroxide relaxers usually sold in base and no-base formula
- Base Cream:
-- oily cream used to protect skin and scalp during hair relaxing
- Base Relaxers:
-- require application of base cream to entire scalp prior to application of relaxer
- No-Base Relaxers:
-- do not require protective base
-- contain base cream designed to melt at body temperature giving thin, oily, protective coating
-- improvement on protection provided by oils in all hydroxide relaxers
-- use base cream on entire hairline, around ears for added protection (even with no-base relaxers)

Relaxer Strengths
- mild strength relaxers
-- formulated for fine, colour-treated, or damaged hair
- regular strength relaxers
-- intended for normal hair texture with medium natural curl
- super strength relaxers
-- used for maximum straightening on coarse hair that is extremely curly
- difference in strength of hydroxide relaxers due to concentration of hydroxide


CAUTION: Application of a thio relaxer or thio permanent on hair that has been treated with a hydroxide relaxer will not properly relax or curl hair and may cause extreme damage. Hair treated with hydroxide relaxers is UNFIT for thio relaxers or soft curl permanents.

Chemical Hair Relaxing Procedures

Hydroxide Relaxer Procedures
- Virgin Relaxer Application:
-- used for hair that has not had previous chemical texture services
-- scalp area and porous ends usually process more quickly than middle, start 1/4 (.6 cm) to 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) away from scalp and include entire strand, up to the porous ends
-- avoid overprocessing and scalp irritation, apply relaxer to hair closest to scalp or ends during the last few minutes of processing
- Retouch Relaxer Application:
-- hair with previous chemical texture services
-- start 1/4 to 1/2 inch away from scalp and include only new growth
-- avoid overprocessing and scalp irritation, apply relaxer to hair closest to scalp during the last few minutes of processing
-- avoid breakage to previously relaxed hair, apply cream conditioner over hair that received earlier treatment
-- avoid overlapping previously relaxed hair unless additional strengthening is required (during last few minutes)
- optional: some manufacturers recommend normalizing solution after rinsing relaxer prior to shampoo
-- Normalizing solutions:
--- conditioners with acidic pH conditions hair and restore natural pH prior to shampoo


Periodic Strand Testing
- during processing to determine when hair is sufficiently relaxed
- after relaxer is applied, stretch strands to see how fast natural curls are being removed
- may also smooth and press strand to scalp using back of comb or finger
- if strand remains smooth => sufficiently relaxed
- if curl remain => continue processing
- processing time depends on strength of tool, hair type, condition, and results looking for

CAUTION: Make sure client has not had haircolouring containing metallic salts, such as gradual or progressive haircolours, before applying either thio or hydroxide relaxers to hair. Extreme damage or breakage can occur.

Thio Relaxer Procedures
- application steps same for hydroxide relaxers except for neutralization procedure
- relaxer may be applied with bowl and brush, applicator bottle, or back of a rattail comb
- different methods used for virgin relaxers and retouch relaxers


Soft Curl Permanents (Curl Re-forming)

Soft Curl Permanents (Curl Re-forming, Jheri Curl, Curl)
- do not straighten hair
- make existing curl larger and looser
- combination of thio relaxer and thio permanent wrapped on large tools
- use ATG and oxidation neutralizers

Soft Curl Permanent Procedure
- usually 2 services
- extremely curly hair must be relaxed with a thio relaxer (curl rearranger) before wrapping on tools
- all base section horizontal with same length and width as perm tool
- base direction in hair growth
- base control => half off base
- once wrapped on large tools, processed with 2nd thio solution (curl booster)
- after processing, hair is rinsed, blotted, and neutralized

Safety Precautions for Hair Relaxing
- perform thorough hair analysis and client consultation prior to service
- examine scalp for abrasions. Do not proceed if redness, swelling, or skin lesions found
- keep accurate and detailed client record of services performed and results achieved
- have client sign release statement indicating possible risks involved in service
- do NOT apply hydroxide relaxer on hair previously treated with thio relaxer
- do NOT apply thio relaxer on hair previously treated with hydroxide relaxer
- do NOT chemically relax hair treated with metallic dye
- do NOT relax overly damage hair: suggest series of reconstruction treatments
- do NOT shampoo cient prior to application of hydroxide relaxer
- client's hair and scalp must be completely dry and free from perspiration prior to application of hydroxide relaxer
- apply protective base cream to avoid scalp irritation
- wear gloves during relaxer application
- protect client's eyes
- if accidental solution in eyes, flush immediately with cool water and refer to doctor
- do NOT allow chemical relaxers to contact client's ears, scalp, or skin
- perform periodic strand tests to see how fast natural curls are being removed
- avoid scratching scalp with comb or fingers
- do NOT allow application of relaxer retouch to overlap onto previously relaxed hair
- never use a strong relaxer on fine or damaged hair => may cause breakage
- do NOT attempt to remove more than 80% of natural curl
- thoroughly rinse chemical relaxer from hair. Failure to rinse properly can cause excessive skin irritation and hair breakage
- use normalizing lotion to restore hair and scalp to normal acidic pH
- use neutralizing shampoo with colour indicator to guarantee hair and scalp have been restored to normal acidic pH
- use conditioner and wide-tooth comb to eliminate excessive stretching when combing out tangles
- do NOT use hot irons or excessive heat on chemically relaxed hair


PERMANENT WAVE CATEGORIES

Perm Type:               Alkaline (Cold Wave) 
pH:                           9.0 - 9.6
Active Ingredient:    ammonium thioglycolate (ATG)
Process:                    room temperature
Hair Type:                coarse, thick, or resistant
Results:                    firm, strong curls
Advantages:             process quickly at room temperature
Disadvantages:        unpleasant ammonia odour; may damage delicate hair

Perm Type:               Exothermic Wave
pH:                           9.0 - 9.6
Active Ingredient:    ammonium thioglycolate (ATG)
Process:                    exothermic
Hair Type:                coarse, thick, or resistant
Results:                    firm, strong curls
Advantages:             exothermic reaction causes solution to get hot
Disadvantages:        unpleasant ammonia odour; may damage delicate hair

Perm Type:               True Acid Wave
pH:                           4.5 - 7.0
Active Ingredient:    glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG)
Process:                    endothermic
Hair Type:                extremely porous or very damaged hair
Results:                    soft, weak curls
Advantages:             low pH produces minimal swelling
Disadvantages:        requires heat from hair dryer; will not produce firm, strong curls

Perm Type:               Acid-Balanced Wave
pH:                           7.8 - 8.2
Active Ingredient:    glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG)
Process:                    room temperature
Hair Type:                porous or damaged hair
Results:                    soft curls
Advantages:             minimal swelling; processes at room temperature
Disadvantages:        repeated exposure causes allergic sensitivity in clients and stylists


Perm Type:               Ammonia-Free Wave

pH:                           7.0 - 9.6
Active Ingredient:    monoethanolamine (MEA) / aminomethylpropanol (AMP)
Process:                    room temperature
Hair Type:                porous to normal
Results:                    medium to fine curls
Advantages:             no unpleasant ammonia odour
Disadvantages:        overall strength varies with different manufacturers


Perm Type:               Thio-Free Wave

pH:                           7.0 - 9.6
Active Ingredient:    mercaptamine / cysteamine
Process:                    room temperature
Hair Type:                porous to normal
Results:                    medium to fine curls
Advantages:             may be gentler, depending on formula
Disadvantages:        overall strength varies with different manufacturers

Perm Type:               Low-pH Waves
pH:                           6.5 - 7.0
Active Ingredient:    ammonium sulfite / ammonium bisulfite
Process:                    endothermic
Hair Type:                normal, fine, or damaged
Results:                    weak curl or body wave
Advantages:             minimal swelling
Disadvantages:        requires heat from hair dryer; produces weak curls


RELAXER CATEGORIES

Active Ingredient:    Sodium Hydroxide
pH:                           12.5 - 13.5
Marketed As:           no-mix lye relaxer
Advantages:             very effective for extremely curly hair
Disadvantages:        may cause scalp irritation and damage the hair

Active Ingredient:    Lithium Hydroxide & Potassium Hydroxide
pH:                           12.5 - 13.5
Marketed As:           no-mix lye relaxer
Advantages:             very effective for extremely curly hair
Disadvantages:        may cause scalp irritation and damage the hair

Active Ingredient:    Guanidine Hydroxide

pH:                           13 - 13.5
Marketed As:           no-lye relaxer
Advantages:             causes less skin irritation than other hydroxide relaxers
Disadvantages:        more drying to hair with repeated use

Active Ingredient:    Ammonium Thioglycolate

pH:                           9.6 -10.0
Marketed As:           thio relaxer, no-lye relaxer
Advantages:             compatible with soft curl permanents
Disadvantages:        strong, unpleasant ammonia smell

Active Ingredient:    Ammonium Sulfite / Ammonium Bisulfite

pH:                           6.5 - 8.5
Marketed As:           low-pH relaxer, no-lye relaxer
Advantages:             less damaging to hair
Disadvantages:        does not relax extremely curly hair sufficiently


Procedure 30 - BASIC PERM


Implements & Materials for Permanent Waving:
- perm solution
- neutralizer
- (optional) acid-balanced shampoo
- (optional) preneutralizing conditioner
- (optional) conditioner
- protective barrier cream
- applicator bottles
- perm tools
- shampoo cape
- towels
- neutralizing bib
- roll cotton
- plastic clips for sectioning
- styling comb
- plastic rattail comb
- end papers
- (optional) roller picks
- spray bottle
- disposible gloves
- timer



Preparation for all perms:
1. Wash hands.
2. Conduct client consultation & evaluation. Fill out client's perm record. Note changes in client's history.
3. Perform hair & scalp analysis.
4. Have client change into gown and remove eyeglasses, earrings, and necklace.
5. Drape client for shampoo.
6. Gently shampoo & towel-dry hair. Avoid irritating scalp.
7. Perform preliminary test curl procedure.

Procedure for Preliminary Test Curls:
1. Wrap one tool in each area of head (Top, Side, Nape)
2. Wrap coil of cotton around each tool
3. Apply waving lotion to wrapped curls. Do not allow waving lotion to contact unwrapped hair
4. Set timer & process according to manufacturer's directions
5. Check each test curl for proper curl development. Unfasten tool and unwind curl about 1 1/2 turns. Do not allow hair to become loose or completely unwound. Gently move tool toward scalp to encourage hair to fall loosely into the wave pattern.
6. Curl development is complete when a firm and definite "S" is formed that reflects size of tool. Wave patter for fine, thin hair may be weak, with little definition. Wave pattern for coarse, think hair is usually stronger and better defined.
7. When curl has been formed, rinse thoroughly with warm water for at least 5 minutes, blot thoroughly, apply neutralizer, and process according to the manufacturer's directions.  Gently dry hair and evaluate results.  Do not proceed with the permanent if the test curls are extremely damaged or overprocessed.  If the test curl results are satisfactory, proceed with the perm, but DO NOT re-perm these preliminary test curls.


Procedure for Basic Perm Wrap (Straight Set Wrap):


 1. Divide hair into 9 panels. Use length of tool to measure width of panels. Remember to keep hair wet as you wrap.

Wrapping pattern (superimpose to back of head):
9     1     8
6     2     4
7     3     5

Alternate wrapping pattern:

9     7     8
5     1     3
6     2     4

2. Begin wrapping at front hairline or crown.  Make horizontal parting same size as tool. Using 2 end papers, roll hair down to scalp in direction of hair growth and position tool half-off base. The band should be smooth, not twisted, and should be fastened straight across the top of the tool.  Excessive tension may cause band marks or hair breakage. Continue wrapping remainder of the first panel using same technique. (Optional): Insert roller picks to stabilize tools.  Although roller picks may be used to eliminate any tension caused by the band, they will not compensate for poorly wrapped perm.  if roller picks are not used correctly, they can cause same damage as incorrect placement of the rubber band.
3. Continue wrapping remaining 8 panels in numerical order holding hair at 90-degree angle.

Procedure for Processing Permanents:
1. Apply protective barrier cream to hairline and ears.  Apply roll cotton around entire hairline and offer client towel to blot any drips.
2. Slowly and carefully apply perm solution with a bottle to hair on each tool.  Ask client to lean forward while you apply solution to the back area, then ask client to lean back as you apply solution to front and sides.  Avoid splashing and dripping.  Continue to apply solution slowly until each tool is completely saturated.
3. If a plastic cap is used, punch a few holes in cap and cover hair completely. Do not allow plastic cap to touch client's skin.
4. Check cotton and towels. Replace if they are saturated with solution.
5. Process according to manufacturer's directions.  Processing time varies according to strength of solution, hair type and condition, and desired results.  Processing usually takes less than 20 minutes at room temperature.
6. Check frequently for curl development. Unwind tool and check "S" pattern formation described in the preliminary test curl procedure.
7. When processing is completed, rinse hair thoroughly for at least 5 minutes, towel-blot hair on each tool to remove any excess moisture.  Another option recommended by some manufacturers is to apply preneutralizing conditioner to hair, after rinsing and blotting and before applying neutralizer.
8. Apply neutralizer slowly and carefully to hair on each tool.  Ask client to lean forward as you apply solution to the back, and lean back as you apply solution to front and sides.  Avoid splashing and dripping. Continue to apply neutralizer until each tool is completely saturated.
9. Set a timer for the amount of time specified by manufacturer.  After processing, remove tools and work remaining neutralizer through hair gently with hands.
10. Rinse thoroughly. (Optional): shampoo & condition.
11. Style hair as desired.

Cleanup and Sanitation:
1. Discard disposable supplies in appropriate receptacles.
2. Sanitize implements and store according to sanitation requireemnts.
3. Clean, sanitize, and prepare your workstation for the next service.
4. Wash hands thoroughly with soap and warm water.
5. Complete client record.



Procedure 31 - Curvature Perm Wrap
Implements & Materials and preparation as above.

Procedure:
1. Begin sectioning at the front hairline on one side of the part.  Comb hair in the direction of growth, then section out individual panels to match length of rod.
2. Alternate from side to side as you section out all the curvature panels over the entire head. Sectioning panels in advance creates a road map that provides direction and gives continuity to the wrapping pattern.
3. Begin wrapping the first panel at front hairline, on one side of the part. Comb out a base section same width as the diameter of the rod. Base direction should point away from face. Hold hair at 90-degree angle to head. Using 2 end papers, roll hair down to scalp and position rod half-off base.
4. Remaining base sections in panel should be wider on the outside of panel (the side farthest away from the face). Continue wrapping the rest of rods in panel, alternating rod diameters. (Optional): Insert picks to stabilize rods adn eliminate any tension caused by the band.
5. When you reach the last rod at the hairline, comb hair flat at base and change the base direction. Direct rod up and toward base, keeping base area flat.
6. Continue with panel two, which is the front panel on the other side of the part. Repeat same procedure as on the first panel.
7. Continue with 3rd panel, which is the panel behind and next to first panel. Repeat same procedure until you reach last 2 rods at the hairline. Comb hair flat at the base and change base direction.  Direct last 2 rods up and toward base, keeping base area flat.
8. Continue with 4th panel, on opposite side of teh head, behind and next to 2nd panel. Repeat same procedure as 3rd panel.
9. Follow same procedure with 5th panel. Base direction should remain consistent with the pattern already established. Base direction in back flows around and contours to the perimeter hairline area.
10. All panels should fit curvature of head and should blend into the surrounding panels.
11. Process & style hair.
12. Follow cleanup and sanitation procedures.


Procedure 32 - Bricklay Perm Wrap
Implements & Materials and preparation as above.

Procedure:
1. Begin by parting out base section parallel to front hairline same length and width as rod. Base direction is back, away from face. Hold hair at 90-degree angle to head. Using 2 end papers, roll hair down to scalp and position rod half-off base.
2. In 2nd row directly behind first rod, part out 2 base section for 2 rods offset from the centre of first rod.  Hold hair at 90-degree angle to head.  sing 2 end papers, roll hair down to scalp and position rods half-off base. (Optional): Insert picks to stabilize rods and eliminate any tension caused by the band.
3. Begin 3rd row by parting out a base section at the point where 2 rods meet in the previous row. Same pattern used throughout entire wrap.
4. Continue to part out rows that radiate around the curve of head through the crown area. Extend rows around and down to the side hairline, parting out base sections at the centre of the point where the two tools meet in the previous row.
5. Stop the curving rows after you have finished wrapping the crown area. Part out horizontal sections throughout the back of head and continue with bricklay pattern. You may need to change length of rods from row to row to maintain pattern.
6. Process & style hair.
7. Follow cleanup and sanitation procedures.

Procedure 33 - Weave Technique
Can be used with any wrapping pattern
Implements & Materials and preparation as above.

Procedure:
1. Part out one base section same size as 2 rods. Comb entire base section at a 90-degree angle to head and use a rattail comb to make a zigzag parting along length of base section.
2. Using two end papers, roll half of the strand down to scalp. Comb remaining half of base section at 90-degree angle, use 2 end papers, and roll the strand down to the scalp. (Optional): Secure rods and insert picks to stabilize rods and eliminate an tension caused by the band.
3. Continue same procedure in any sections where the effect is desired.
4. After processing and styling, follow clean up and sanitation procedures.


Procedure 34 - Double Tool (Piggyback) Technique
Can be used with any wrapping pattern
Implements & Materials and preparation as above.



Procedure:
1. Begin by placing base rod in middle of strand. Wrap end of strand one revolution around rod while holding it to one side.  Roll the rod to base area, letting the loose ends follow as you roll. (Optional) Insert picks to stabilize rods and to eliminate any tension caused by the band.
2. Place 2 end papers on the ends of the strand and position a rod to roll from the ends toward the base area. Secure end rod on top of base rod.
3. Depending on length and size of rod, possible to roll as many as 3 end strands together on same end rod.
4. Continue same procedure in any section where the effect is desired.
5. Process and style hair.
6. Follow clean up and sanitation procedures.

Procedure 35 - Weave Technique
Implements & Materials and preparation as above.



Procedure:
1. Part hair into 4 panels, from the centre of front hairline to centre to nape and from ear to ear. Section out 5th panel from ear to ear in nape area.
2. Section out first row along hairline in nape area. Comb remainder of hair up and secure it out of way.
3. Part out first base section on one side of first row. Hold hair at 90-degree angle to head. Using 1 or 2 end papers, begin wrapping at one end of tool. Starting wrap from right or left side of tool will orient the curl in that direction.
4. Roll the first 2 full turns at 90-degree angle to tool to secure ends of hair, then start spiralling hair on tool by changing the angle to an angle other than 90 degrees. Continue to spiral hair toward other end of tool. Roll hair down to scalp, position tool half-off base and secure it by fastening ends of tool together.
5. Continue wrapping with same technique, in same direction, until first row completed.
6. Section out 2nd row above and parallel to first row. Comb remainder up and secure it to keep out of way.
7. Begin wrapping at the opposite side from the side where 1st row began, and move in the direction opposite the direction established in 1st row.
8. Follow same procedure to wrap 2nd row but begin wrapping each tool at opposite end established in 1st row. Continue wrapping with same technique, in same direction until 2nd row is completed.
9. Section out 3rd row above and parallel to 2nd row. Follow same wrapping procedure, alternating rows from left to right as you move up head. This will alternate orientation of curl throughout head.
10. Process and style hair.
11. After processing and styling, follow clean up and sanitation procedures.


Procedure 36 - Relaxing with Hydroxide Relaxer

Implements & Materials:
- hydroxide relaxer
- hydroxide neutralizer
- protective base cream
- acid-balanced shampoo
- conditioner
- bowl & applicator brush
- shampoo cape
- towels
- plastic clips
- styling comb
- plastic rattail comb
- spray bottle
- disposable gloves
- timer


Preparation:
1. Wash hands
2. Perform hair & scalp analysis. Perform test for porosity & elasticity.
3. Complete client consultation. Fill out client relaxer record. Note changes in client's history.
4. Have client change into gown and remove eyeglasses, earrings, and necklace. rape client with a shampoo cape and two towels. To avoid scalp irritation, do NOT shampoo hair prior to a hydroxide relaxer.

Procedure for Applying Virgin Hydroxide Relaxers:
1. Part hair into 4 sections, from centre of front hairline to centre of nape, and from ear to ear. Clip sections up to keep out of way.
2. Apply protective base cream to hairline and ears. (Optional): take 1/4 to 1/2 inch (.6 to 1.25 cm) horizontal partings and apply a protective base cream to the entire scalp.
3. Wear gloves on both hands. Begin application in the most resistant area, usually back of head. Make 1/4 to 1/2 inch horizontal partings and apply the relaxer to the top of the strand first, then to the underside. Apply relaxer with an applicator bottle, brush, or back of a rattail comb. Apply relaxer 1/4 to 1/2 inch away from scalp and up to porous ends. To avoid scalp irritation, do not allow relaxer to touch scalp until last few minutes of processing.
4. Continue applying relaxer, working your way down the section toward hairline.
5. Continue same application procedure with remaining sections. Finish most resistant sections first.
6. After relaxer has been applied to all sections, use back of comb or hands to smooth each section.
7. Process according to manufacturer's directions. Perform periodic strand test.  Processing usually takes less than 20 minutes at room temperature.
8. During last few minutes of processing, work relaxer down to scalp and through the ends of hair, using additional relaxer as needed. Carefully comb and smooth all sections.
9. Rinse thoroughly with warm water to remove all traces of relaxer.

Neutralization Procedure:
1. (Optional): Apply normalizing solution and comb it through to ends of hair, leave on for approximately 5 minutes, and then rinse thoroughly.
2. Shampoo at least 3 times with an acid-balanced neutralizing shampoo. It is essential that all traces of relaxer be removed from hair: (Optional): If you are using a neutralizing shampoo with a colour indicator, a change in colour indicates when all traces of relaxer are removed and natural pH of hair and scalp has been restored.
3. Rinse thoroughly, condition, and style as desired.

Cleanup and Sanitation for all relaxers:
1. Discard disposable supplies in appropriate receptacles.
2. Disinfect implements and store according to sanitation requirements.
3. Clean, sanitize, and prepare your workstation for the next service.
4. Wash hands with warm soap and water.
5. Complete client record.


Procedure 37 - Hydroxide Relaxer Retouch
Implements & Materials and preparation as above.

Procedure:
1. Do NOT shampoo hair. Divide hair into 4 sections, from centre of front hairline to centre of nape, and from ear to ear. Clip sections up to keep out of way.
2. Wear gloves on both hands. Apply protective base cream to hairline and ears. (Optional): take 1/4 to 1/2 inch (.6 to 1.25 cm) horizontal partings and apply a protective base cream to the entire scalp.
3. Begin application in the most resistant area, usually back of head. Make 1/4 to 1/2 inch horizontal partings and apply the relaxer to the top of the strand. Apply relaxer 1/4 to 1/2 inch away from scalp and only to new growth. Do not allow relaxer to touch scalp until last few minutes of processing. To avoid overprocessing or breakage, do not overlap the relaxer onto the previously relaxed hair.
4. Continue applying relaxer, working your way down the section toward hairline.
5. Continue same application procedure with remaining sections. Finish most resistant sections first.
6. After relaxer has been applied to all sections, use back of comb or hands to smooth each section.
7. Process according to manufacturer's directions. Perform periodic strand test.  Processing usually takes less than 20 minutes at room temperature.
8. During last few minutes of processing, work relaxer down to scalp.
9. If the ends of hair need additional relaxing, work the relaxer through to ends for the last few minutes of processing.
10. Rinse thoroughly with warm water to remove all traces of relaxer.

11. Follow neutralizing procedure. Style hair as desired.
12. Follow cleanup and sanitation procedures.

Procedure 38 - Relaxing with Thio Relaxer

Implements and Materials:
- Use same implements and materials for hydroxide relaxers, but use thio relaxer, normalizing lotion, and neutralizing shampoo (with colour indicator).

Preparation:
- Follow same steps as hydroxide relaxer
A light shampoo is optional. Do hair & scalp analysis. Test hair for elasticity and porosity in several areas of head.  If hair has poor elasticity, do not perform relaxer service.

Procedure for Virgin Thio Relaxer:
- Same as for hydroxide relaxer procedure 36

Neutralization Procedure for Thio Relaxers:
1. Blot excess water from hair.  Apply thio neutralizer in 1/4 to 1/2 inch (.6 to 1.25 cm) sections throughout hair, and smooth with hands or back of comb.
2. Process neutralizer according to manufacturer's directions.
3. Rinse thoroughly, shampoo, condition, and style.

Cleanup and Sanitation:
- Same as for hydroxide relaxer

Procedure for Thio Relaxer Retouch:
1. Follow preparation and application procedure 37 - hydroxide relaxer retouch. (Optional): A shampoo prior to relaxer application.
2. Follow virgin thio relaxer neutralizing and cleanup procedures


Procedure 39 - Soft Curl Permanent

Implements & Supplies:
- thio cream relaxer (curl rearranger)
- thio curl booster
- (optional) preneutralizing conditioner
- thio neutralizer
- protective base cream
- acid-balanced shampoo
- conditioner
- plastic or glass bowl
- applicator brush
- applicator bottles
- shampoo cape
- neutralizing bib
- disposable gloves
- roll cotton
- towels
- plastic clips
- styling comb
- plastic tail comb
- perm tools
- end papers
- spray bottle
- timer


CAUTION: Hair that has been treated with hydroxide relaxers must NOT be treated with thio relaxers or soft curl permanents.

Preparation:
1. Wash hands.
2. Perform client consultation, hair and scalp analysis, and note results in client record.
3. Have client change into gown and remove eyeglasses, earrings, and necklace.  Drape client with shampoo cape and two towels. (Optional): Shampoo hair gently and towel-dry. Avoid any irritating scalp manipulations.

Procedure:
1. Follow procedure 36 - apply virgin hydroxide relaxer.
2. After rinsing hair, part it into 9 panels. Use length of rod to measure width of panels.
3. Wear gloves on both hands and begin wrapping at most resistant area.  Apply and distribute thio curl booster to each panel as you wrap hair. Make horizontal parting same size as rod. Hold hair at 90-degree angle to head. Using 2 end papers, roll hair down to scalp and position road half-off base. (Optional): Insert roller picks to stabilize rods and eliminate any tension caused by the band.
4. Continue wrapping remainder of first panel using same technique.
5. Continue wrapping remaining 8 panels in numerical order using same technique.
6. Place cotton around hairline and neck and apply thio curl booster to all curls until they are completely saturated.
7. If plastic cap used, punch a few holes in cap and cover hair completely.  Do NOT allow plastic cap to touch client's skin.
8. Check cotton and towels. If they are saturated with solution, replace.
9. Process according to manufacturer's directions. Processing time will vary according to strength of product, hair type and condition, and desired results. Processing usually takes less than 20 minutes at room temperature.
10. Check for proper curl development.
11. When processing is completed, rinse hair thoroughly, for at least 5 minutes. Then towel-blot hair on each tool to remove excess moisture. (Optional): Apply preneutralizing conditioner according to the manufacturer's directions.
12. Apply neutralizer slowly and carefully to hair on each tool. Avoid splashing and dripping. Make sure each rod is completely saturated.
13. Set a timer and neutralize according to manufacturer's directions. Remove rods, distribute remaining neutralizer through the ends of hair, and rinse thoroughly. (Optional): Shampoo and condition.
14. Style hair as desired.

Cleanup and Sanitation:
1. Discard all disposable supplies in appropriate receptacles.
2. Disinfect implements and store according to sanitation requirements.
3. Clean, sanitize, and prepare your workstation for next service.
4. Wash hands with soap and warm water.
5. Complete client record.