Notes for Haircutting

Basic Principles of Haircutting
- process begins with combing hair
- next, hair needs to be parted
- necessary to elevate, or raise, hair while cutting to create graduated effect or layers
- core process => understanding physics of hair
- you create haircut every time you comb, lift, cut hair
- when hair falls back to natural position, falls into shape or formation, based on execution of essential steps

Head form: Anatomy of Skull
- understand shape of skull to create consistent and successful results in haircutting
- Head Form = Head Shape: shape of head or skull
- major role in guiding you to desired end result
- hair responds differently on different areas of head
-- depending on end-result length and cutting technique used
- awareness of where head form curves, turns, and changes produce best haircutting results
- Reference Points:
-- points on the head that mark where the surface of the head changes or the behaviour of hair changes
--- ears, jawline, occipital bone, or apex
-- establish proportionate design lines


Reference Points
- it will ensure balance within design => both sides of haircut turn out same
- recreate haircut again and again
- tell you where and when to change technique in order to make up for irregularities in head form
- Parietal Ridge: Crest Area
-- widest area of head, starting at temples and ending at bottom of crown
-- found by placing comb flat on head at the sides
-- where the head start to curve away from the comb is the parietal ridge
- Occipital Bone:
-- bone that protrudes at base of skull
-- feel skull, place a comb flat against nape area and observe where comb leaves head
- Apex:
-- highest point on top of head
-- place comb flat on top of head resting on highest point
- Four Corners:
-- 2 methods
-- 1. place 2 combs flat against side and back => locating back corner at point where 2 combs meet
-- 2. make 2 diagonal lines crossing apex of head, pointing directly to front and back corners
-- location of 4 corners signals a change in shape of head, from flat to round and vice versa
-- change in surface can have significant effect on outcome of haircut
-- two front corners represent widest points in fringe (bangs) area
--- cutting pat these points can cause fringe to end up on sides of haircut once dried => not good


Areas of Head
- knowing reference points gives you clear understanding of areas of head
- Top:
-- parting hair at parietal ridge (crest area)
-- hair on top behaves differently from sides and back
- Front:
-- part or draw line from apex to back of ear
- Sides:
-- all hair from back of ear forward and below parietal ridge
- Crown:
-- area between apex and back of parietal ridge
-- on many people, crown is flat and often site of cowlicks or whorls
-- pay extra attention when haircutting here
- Nape:
-- area back of neck and below occipital bone
-- part or make horizontal line across back of head at occipital bone
- Back:
-- part or draw line from apex to back of ear
- Fringe (Bangs) Area:
-- triangular section, begins at apex and ends at front corners
-- place comb on top of head so middle is balance on apex => fringe begins
-- when combed into natural falling position, falls no farther than outer corners of eyes

Lines & Angles
- every haircut made up of lines and angles
- Line: thin continuous mark used as a guide
- Angle: space between 2 lines or surfaces that intersect at given point
- 2 basic lines: straight and curved
- head made up of curved and straight lines or surfaces
- when you cut lines into hair, hair falls into shape based on lines cut
- 3 types of straight lines in haircutting: horizontal, vertical, and diagonal
1. Horizontal Lines:
-- parallel to horizon, or floor
-- level, opposite of vertical
-- direct eye from one side to the other
-- usually used to create one-length and low-elevation haircuts
-- build weight
2. Vertical Lines:
-- described as up and down
-- perpendicular to floor
-- create graduated or layered haircuts and used with higher elevations
-- remove weight
3. Diagonal Lines:
-- between horizontal and vertical
-- have a slanting or sloping direction
-- used to create Beveling => technique for creating fullness in haircut by cutting ends of hair at slight taper
-- used to create stacking and to blend long layers to short layers

- angles extremely important element in creating strong foundation and consistency in haircuting
-- particularly important in 2 instances: elevation and cutting line


Elevation (Projection or Lifting)
- Sections: hair parted into uniform working areas, for control during haircutting
- each section further divided into smaller parts called Subsections
- Part or Parting: line dividing hair to scalp that separates one section of hair from another or creates subsections
- Elevation: angel or degree at which a subsection of hair is held, or elevated from head when cutting
- action that occurs when you lift a subsection of hair above 0 degrees
- creates graduation and layers usually described in degrees
- in blunt or one-length haircut, no elevation (0 degrees)
- if haircut not one length, elevation was used
- when client brings picture of haircut, you should be able to examine and determine which elevation used, as well as cutting line
- most commonly used elevations are 45 and 90 degrees
- more you elevate hair => more graduation you create
- when you elevate hair below 90 degrees => building weight
- elevate hair at 90 degrees or higher => remove weight or layer hair
- length of which you cut hair also affects end results
- weight of hair when longer often appear heavier or less layered, due to gravity
- curly hair shrinks when it dries => use less elevation than on straighter textures or leave hair a bit longer

Cutting Line (Finger Angle, Finger Position, Cutting Position, Cutting Angle, Shears Angle)
- angle at which fingers are held when cutting, and ultimately line that is cut
- angle creates end-result shape
- described: horizontal, vertical, diagonal, or by using degrees

Guidelines (Guide)
- section of hair that determines length the hair will be cut
- located at perimeter (outer line) or interior (inner or internal part) of the cut
- usually 1st section you cut when creating a shape
- 2 basic guidelines in haircutting: stationary and traveling
- Stationary Guideline:
-- one that does not move
-- all other sections are combed to stationary guideline and cut at the same angle and length
-- used mostly in blunt (one-length) haircuts
-- using overdirection to create a length or weight increase in haircut
- Travelling Guideline (Movable Guideline):
-- moves as haircut progresses
-- travels with you as you work through haircut
-- take small slice of previous subsection and move it to next position, or subsection, becoming new guideline
-- more often used when creating layered or graduated haircuts
-- when creating uniform layers, use travelling guide with not overdirection, to create same length throughout entire haircut

Overdirection
- when you comb hair away from natural falling position, rather than straight out from the head toward a guideline
- used mostly in graduated and layered haircuts
- create length increase in design
- ie. layered haircut longer toward front => overdirect section to a stationary guide at back of ear (lift hair 90 degrees on top of head)
- ie. creating long layered haircut with shorter layers around face and longer layers in back => overdirect sections to a stationary guide at front

Client Consultation
- conversation between you and client
- find out what client is looking for, offer suggestions, and professional advice, come to decision about most suitable haircut
- purpose to open lines of communication, have understanding of what client want, ensure client understands what you like to do and together determine end result
- share thoughts about best haircut for client's face shape
- discuss nature of client's hair: thick, thin, fine, coarse, straight, curly, etc.
- if client has particular look in mind, discuss if appropriate
- use gentle persuasion and positive reinforcement when you know a look that client wants will not suit them
- offer alternative suggestions that works with client's hair texture, face shape, and lifestyle

The Desired Look
- ask what client wants
- how much time is client willing to spend on hair everyday?
- what is client's lifestyle?
- classic or trendy?
- analyze hair density, texture, growth patterns, and hairline
- ie. if client has hair growing straight up nape and is requesting short haircut that is soft and wispy at the hairline => not going to happen, suggest alternative that works with hairline

Face Shape
- analyze client's face shape pull all hair away with clip, or wrap hair in towel
- look for widest areas, narrowest areas, and balance of features
- quick way => determine if face is predominantly wide or long
- look for features you want to bring out and those you want to deemphasize
- analyzing face shape in order to decide most suitable haircut, or shape for client
- remember weight and volume draw attention to an area
- remember client's profile
-- turn chair to see client from the side in the mirror
-- pull hair away from face and up and away from neck
-- look for features to emphasize (ie. jawline, neck)
-- look for features to draw attention away from (ie. prominent or receding chin, double chin, nose)
- decide on what kind of part client will wear
-- natural part, centre part, or side part

Hair Analysis
- density
- texture
- wave pattern
- hairlines
- growth pattern

Hair Density
- number of individual hair strands on one square inch of scalp
- thin
- medium
- thick

Hair Texture
- general quality and feel of hair
- based on thickness or diameter of each hair strand
- coarse
- medium
- fine

Why is density and texture important?
- different hair types respond different to kind of cutting they receive
- some hair types need more layers
- some need more weight
- coarse hair tend to stick out if cut too short
- thin hair can be cut very short and still lie flat
- if client has fine (texture) and thin (density) hair, cutting too short = unflattering look, with scalp showing

Density & Texture

Texture: Fine
Density
- Thin: limp, needs weight
- Medium: great for many cuts, especially blunt and low elevation. Razor cuts are good
- Thick: usually needs more texturizing. Suitable for many haircuts

Texture: Medium
Density
- Thin: needs weight. Graduated shapes work well
- Medium: great for most cuts. Hair can handle texturizing
- Thick: many shapes are suitable. Texturzing usually necessary

Texture: Coarse
Density
- Thin: maintain some weight. Razor cuts not recommended
- Medium: great for many shapes. Razor cuts appropriate if hair is in good condition
- Thick: very short cuts do not work. Razors may frizz and "expand" hair. Maintain some length to weigh hair down


Wave Pattern
- amount of movement in hair strand, varies from client to client as well as within same head of hair
- client may have stick-straight hair (no wave), wavy hair, curly hair, extremely curly hair, or anything in between

Hairlines & Growth Patterns
- hairline is hair that grows at the outermost perimeter along face, around ears, and on neck
- growth pattern is direction in which hair grows from scalp
-- Growth Pattern = Natural Fall = Natural Falling Position
- cowlicks, whorls, and other growth patterns affect where hair ends up once it is dry
-- use less tension when cutting those areas to compensate for hair being pushed up when it dries, especially in the nape or avoid getting a hole" around the ear in a one-length haircut
- another crucial area is the crown => many people have something going on there

FYI:
- hair shrinks when it dries
- once you and client decide on length, keep in mind hair will shrink 1/4 inch (0.6cm) to 1/2 inch (1.25cm) after it is dry
-- cut hair 1/4 to 1/2 inch longer than desired length
- if hair curly, it will shrink even more 1/2 to 2 inches (5cm)

Tools, Body Position, and Safety
- you're only as good a your tools

Haircutting Tools
- Haircutting Shears:
-- used to cut blunt or straight lines in hair
-- slide cut, point cut, and other texturizing techniques
-- shears and scissors interchangeable
- Thinning Shears: (Texturizing Shears, Tapering Shears, or Notching Shears)
-- used to remove bulk from hair
-- different types with varying amounts of teeth in blades
-- more teeth there are => less hair removed
-- Notching shears designed to remove more hair with larger teeth set farther apart
- Straight Razor or Razor Shaper:
-- used when softer effect desired on hair ends
-- can be used to create entire haircut, to thin hair out, or texturize certain areas
-- comes in different shapes and sizes, with our without guards
- Clip[ers:
-- used to create shot tapers, short haircuts, fades, and flat tops
-- can be used without guard to shave right to scalp
-- using cutting guards at various lengths
-- used in "clipper-over-comb" technique
- Edgers:
-- smaller version of clippers
-- used to remove excess or unwanted hair at neckline and around ears,
-- haircuts for men and very short haircuts for women
- Wide-tooth Comb:
-- used to detangle hair
-- rarely used during haircut
- Sectioning Clips:
-- come in variety of shapes, styles, and sizes
-- made of plastic or metal
-- 2 types: jaw clips and duckbill clips
- Barber Comb:
-- used for close tapers in nape and sides when using shears-over-comb technique
-- narrow end of comb allows shears to get very close to head
- Styling or Cutting Comb: (All-purpose Comb)
-- used for most haircutting procedures
-- 6-8 inches (15-20cm) in length and has fine teeth at one end, wider teeth at other

Parts of Haircutting Shears:
1. Moving Blade
2. Still Blade
3. Pivot Screw
4. Tang or Finger Brace
5. Finger Grip
6. Thumb Grip

Parts of Razor
1. Head
2. Point
3. Edge
4. Blade
5. Heel
6. Back
7. Shoulder
8. Shank
9. Pivot
10. Pivot
11. Tang
12. Handle

Holding Your Tools
- 1. proper holding => most control and best results when cutting hair
- 2. proper holding => avoid muscle strain in hands, arms, neck, and back

Holding Shear
1. open right hand (left if left-handed), place right finger in finger grip of still blade and little finger in finger brace (tang)
2. place thumb in finger grip (thumb grip) of moving blade
3. practice opening and closing shears.
- concentrate on moving thumb only
- ie. lay still blade against palm or forefinger of other hand, while you move other blade with thumb

Holding Shears and Comb
- learn early how to hold both tools during entire haircutting process
- your cutting hand (dominant hand) does most of work
-- it holds shears, parts of hair, comb hair, and cuts hair
- your holding hand, holds sections of hair and comb while cutting

Palming the Shears
- remove thumb from thumb grip, leaving right and little fingers in grip and finger rest
- curl fingers in to "palm" the shears, which keeps them closed while you comb or part the hair
-- holds comb and shears simultanously
- while palming shears, hold comb between thumb, index, and middle fingers

Transferring the Comb
- after combing subsection into position, free up cutting hand
- once fingers in cutting position, transfer comb by placing it between thumb and index finger of holding hand (hand holding subsection)
- ready to cut subsection

Holding the Razor
- straight razor or shaping razor is a versatile tool that can be used for entire haircut, or for detailing and texturizing
- holding and working with razor feels very different from using shears
- Method A:
-- open razor so that handle is higher than shank
-- place thumb on thumb grip and the index, middle, and ring fingers on shank
-- place little finger on tang, underneath handle
-- when cutting subsection, position razor on top of subsection, the part facing you, for maximum control
- Method B:
-- open razor until handle and shank striaght
-- place thumb on grip and wrap fingers around handle
- palm the razor:
-- curl ring and little fingers to palm the razor
-- hold comb between thumb, index, and middle fingers
- most razor accidents happen while combing hair, not when cutting, because of loose grip when palming
- practice keeping a firm grip, keeping open blade from sliding and cutting hand while combing

Handling Comb
- both wide and fine teeth of comb are regularly used when cutting hair
- wide teeth used for combing and parting hair
- fine teeth combs section before cutting
-- provides more tension => useful when cutting around ears, difficult hairlines, cutting curly hair
- practice turning comb in your hand while palming shears

Tension
- amount of pressure applied when combing and holding a subsection, created by stretching or pulling the subsection
- from minimum to maximum
- control tension with fingers
- teeth of comb also affect tension
-- greater tension can be achieved with closer and finer teeth
- consistent tension important for even results in haircut
- use maximum tension on straight hair, when you want precise lines
- with curly or wavy hair, lot of tension will result in hair shrinking more than usual when dry
- minimum tenion used around ears or hairlines with strong growth patterns

Posture & Body Position
- posture = how you stand
- body position = how you hold your body when cutting hair
- you spend many hours on your feet
- good posture and body position avoid back problems and ensure better haircutting results
- position the client:
-- make sure client is sitting up straight legs uncrossed
-- gentle reminders during session may be necessary
-- you can move client by turning chair
- centre your weight:
-- keep body weight centred and firm
-- stand knees slightly bent
-- bend one knee if you need to lean slightly one way or the other, not from waist
- Stand in front of your section:
-- stand directly in front of area you are cutting
--- keeps body weight centred and automatically moving around head during haircutting service
--- may choose to move client's chair

Hand Positions for Different Cutting Angles
- always stand in front of area you are working on
- position hands according to cutting line
- cutting over fingers:
-- used most often when cutting uniform or increasing layers
-- usually stand to the side of section
- cutting below fingers: inside knuckles
-- when cutting one-length bob or a heavier graduated haircut
- cutting palm-to-palm:
-- when cutting with a vertical or diagonal cutting line
-- best way to maintain control of subsection, especially with regard to elevation and overdirection
-- palms of both hands are facing each other while cutting
-- prevent strain on back

Safety in Haircutting
- always palm shears and razors when combing or parting hair
-- keeps points of shears closed and pointed away from client
-- prevents you from cutting yourself or client
-- reduces strain on index finger and thumb
- do NOT cut past 2nd knuckle when cutting underneath fingers or inside hand
-- skin is soft and fleshy past 2nd knuckle and is easy to cut
- when cutting around ears or shorter haircuts, take extra care not to accidentally cut ear
- when cutting bangs or any area close to skin, balance shears by placing tip of index finger of left hand (right if you cut with left) on the pivot screw and the knuckles of your left hand against skin
-- prevents clients being poke if moved suddenly
-- balance shears and cut cleaner line
- when working with razor, always use guard
-- once you are comfortable holding, palming, and cutting with the razor, you may practice without guard
- take extra care when removing and disposing razor blade
-- place blade in original sleeve or wrap in paper towel to prevent cuts

Sanitation and Disinfection Guidelines
1. wash hands with soap nd warm water before and after each service
2. before blow-drying, sweep up cut hair and dispose properly
3. drape client properly for shampoo and haircutting procedures
4. always sanitize combs, brushes, shears, clips, and other implements after each haircut by washing thoroughly and placing in a disinfectant solution or by another method approved by regulatory agency
5. replace blade in razor prior to each new client. discard used blades in puncture-proof container
6. keep shears in good working order by lubricating with few drops of oil and wiping with chamois (dry cloth)
7. sanitize workstation after each haircutting service

Basic Haircuts
- art of haircutting => variations on 4 basic haircuts:
-- blunt
-- graduated
-- layers
-- long layers

- Blunt Haircut: (One-Length Haircut, Zero-Elevation Cut, or No-Elevation Cut)
-- all hair comes to one hanging level, forming a weight line or area
-- cut with no elevation or overdirection
-- cut with stationary guide
-- cutting line can be horizontal, diagonal, or rounded
-- excellent for finer & thinner hair types
--- because hair is one length => appear thicker

- Weight Line:
-- visual "line" in haircut, where ends hang together

- Graduated Haircut:
-- graduated shape or wedge
-- results from cutting hair with tension, low to medium elevation, or overdirection
-- most common elevation is 45 degrees
-- visual buildup of weight in given area
-- ends of hair appear to be "stacked"
-- many variations and effects simply by adjusting degree of elevation, amount of overdirection, or cutting line

- Layered Haircut:
-- graduated effect achieved by cutting hair with elevation or overdirection
-- hair cut at higher elevations, usually 90 degrees and above
-- generally have less weight than graduated haircuts
-- ends appear father apart
-- layers create movement and volume in hair by releasing weight
-- layered haircut can be created with travelling guide, stationary guide, or both

- Long Layered Haircut:
-- hair is cut at 180 degree angle
-- gives more volume to hairstyles and can be combined with other basic haircuts
-- resulting shape => shorter layers at top and increasingly longer layers toward perimeter

- every hair cut is made up of one, two, or all three of these basic techniques
- add texturizing, slide cutting, or shears-over-comb => advanced haircut

General Haircutting Tips
- Always take consistent and clean partings
-- ensures even amount of hair in each subsection and produce more precise results
- take extra care in crown and neckline
-- sometimes have strong growth patterns
- another danger zone: hair around ears or hangs over ears in finished haircut
-- allow for protrusion of ear by either keeping more weight in this area or cutting with minimal tension
- always use consistent tension
-- tension range from minimum to maximum
-- maintain light tension by using wide teeth of comb and not "pulling" subsection too tightly
-- whatever tension you are using, should be consistent within area
- pay attention to head position
-- if head not upright, hard to judge elevation and overdirection
- maintain even amount of moisture in hair
-- dry hair responds to cutting differently than wet hair => give uneven results in finished haircut
- always work with guideline
-- if you cannot see the guide, your subsection is too thick
--- go back and take smaller subsection before cutting
-- taking too large subsection => large mistake
- always cross-check haircut
-- cross-checking is parting haircut in opposite way from cut to check for precision of line and shape
-- if vertical partings used in haircut, cross-check lengths with horizontal partings
- use mirror to see your elevation
-- can also turn client sideways so that you can see one side in mirror while working on opposite side
-- helps create even lines and maintains visual balance while working
- always check both sides even by standing in front of client as well
- remember curly hair shrinks more than straight hair, from 1/2 to 2 inches (1.25 to 5cm)
-- always leave length longer than desired result

The Blunt Haircut
- client's head upright and straight
- if you tilt head forward
-- hair will NOT fall in natural falling position
-- line will not fall as you cut it
-- have created some unintended graduation
- hold sections between fingers or use comb to hold hair
- always with little or no tension
- if hair past shoulders, sections need to be held between fingers with minimal tension

Other Blunt Haircuts
- in classic A-line bob, a diagonal cutting line (finger angle) is used
- in longer blunt haircut, fringe left long and cut with horizontal finger angle
- blunt haircut on curly hair => naturally "graduates" itself when dried
- classic pageboy or "bowl" shape, perimeter is curved, using combination of horizontal and curved lines

Tips for Blunt Haircuts
- always cut with minimal or no tension
- work with natural growth patterns of hair, keeping client's head upright
- always comb section twice before cutting, to ensure you have combed hair clean from parting to ends
-- if using wide teeth comb, comb section first with fine teeth, then turn comb around and recomb with wide teeth
- always maintain even amount of moisture in hair
- pay close attention to growth patterns in crown and hairline
- take precautions to allow for protrusion of ear, to avoid getting "hole"

The Graduated (45-Degree) Haircut
- you will be working with a vertical cutting line and 45-degree elevation as well as a 90-degree elevation
- can work with centre or side part or a fringe
- uses both stationary and travelling guidelines

Other Graduated Haircuts
- classic graduated bob, popular by Vidal Sassoon, diagonal sections and finger angles used to create rounded or beveled effect
-- haircut begins in back, using 45-degree elevation throughout and gradually incorporates sides and top
-- if hairline grows up or toward centre, use shears-over-comb technique to blend it
- ie. shorter shape that has "rounded" weight
-- haircut created using diagonal partings that connect at back of ear
-- in front of ear, diagonal partings point down toward face
-- behind ear, diagonal partings point down toward back
-- sides are elevated and overdirected to back of ear, producing more length toward face
-- back is cut using travelling guideline, with each section overdirected to previous section

Tips for Graduated Haircuts
- heavier graduated haircuts (lower elevations) work well on hair that tend to "expand" when dry
-- coarse textures and curly hair will appear to graduate more than straight hair
-- keep your elevation below 45 degrees when working on these hair types
- fine hair responds well to graduation
-- graduations build weight
-- makes thin or fine hair appear thicker and fuller
-- if hair both fine and thin, avoid creating heavy weight lines
-- softer graduation using diagonal partings, will create softer weight line
-- if hair medium density but fine texture => safe to elevate more
--- enough density to support it
- check neckline carefully before cutting nape short
-- if hairline grows straight up => leave length longer and graduation lower => falls below hairline
-- also blend in tricky hairline by using shears-over comb technique
- always use fine teeth of comb and maintain even tension to ensure precise line

The Uniform Layered (90-degree) Haircut
- all hair elevated to 90 degrees and cut at same length
- interior travelling guideline
- Interior Guideline: inside haircut rather than on perimeter
- resulting shape appear soft and rounded, with no build-up weight or corners
- perimeter of hair will fall softly => vertical section on interior reduce weight

Long Layered (180-degree) Haircut
- use increased layering, progressively longer layers
- interior guide, beginning at top of head
- all remaining hair elevated up (180 degrees) to match guide

Other Examples of Layered Haircuts
- if you follow uniform layering technique but cut hair much shorter: 1inch (2.5cm) => you create "pixie," "crop," or "Caesar" haircut
-- flattering on both men and women
- if you follow same method but keep "corners"  by keeping fingers vertical and not follow head form => create a square shape, common in man's basic haircut
- you can create laered haircut with longer perimeter lengths, otherwise known as "shag"
-- cutting top area same as for uniform layers
-- elevating side and back section straight up (180 degrees)
-- blending them into top lengths

Tips for Layered Haircuts
- cut interior first, then go back to perimeter edges and cut stronger lines, cut around ears, or texturize when needed
- when layering hair short, best on medium to thicker densities
-- cutting thin hair too short expose scalp
- coarse hair tends to stick out if cut shorter than 3 inches
-- needs extra length to hold it down
- longer layered shapes while maintaining thickness at bottom, remember to keep top sections longer
-- cutting top layers too short take too much hair away from rest of haircut
-- leave you with collapsed shape that is stringy at bottom
- if client has long hair, past shoulder blades, use slide cutting to connect top sections to lengths
-- maintain maximum length and weight at perimeter of haircut

Cutting Curly Hair
- curl patterns range from slightly wavy to extremely curly
- fine, medium, or coarse textures
- density thick to thin

Tips for Cutting Curly Hair
- curly hair shrinks more after it dries than straight
-- curlier the hair => more it shrink
-- for every 1/4 inch (.6cm) you cut wet hair => shrink up to 1 inch (2.5cm) when dry
- use minimal tension and/or wide teeth of comb
-- too much tension stretches wet hair even more => shrinking more
- curly hair naturally "graduates" itself
-- if shape has strong angles => elevate less than working with straight hair
- curly hair expands more than straight hair
-- generally need to leave lengths longer, ultimately helps weigh hair down and keeps shape from shrinking or ending up too short
- razor should NOT be used on curly hair => weakens cuticle and cause frizz
- choose texturizing techniques carefully
-- avoid using razor
-- work mostly with point cutting and freehand notching to remove bulk and weight

Examples of Basic Haircuts on Curly Hair
- hair appears stacked, even though it was cut with blunt technique
- although hair not elevated, it appears graduated
- notice how volume in graduated haircut is above ears
-- hair shrinks as it dries, resulting in weight line that has graduated itself even higher
- notice round shape
-- uniformed-layered cut on curly hair

Other Cutting Techniques
- make wild hairlines calm down
- make thick hair behave like thinner hair
- make fine hair appear fuller
- blend one area to another
- make hair appear to move more
- add volume or reduce volume
- compensate for different growth patterns that exist in same head of hair

Cutting the Fringe (Bangs)
- much of our haircutting history comes from England, often hear "fringe" instead of "bangs"
-- between 2 front corners, or approximately between outer corners of eyes
- important to work with natural distribution (where and how hair is moved over head) when locating fringe area
-- every head is different => make sure cut only hair that falls in that area
- do not always cut all hair in this area, but you never cut more unless you are blending to sides or top
- ie. fringe is cut using stationary guide, elevating 90 degrees straight up  from head form
- ie. short bangs make strong statement, combined with shorter layered haircut
-- line is curved, cut with low elevation => hair remains more solid-looking and not too heavy
- ie. fringe is very long, cut with slide cutting technique => wispy effect
- sometimes only a few pieces are cut in fringe area
-- keeps hair out of face
-- might use razor
- depending on haircut, fringe can be blended or not
-- if working with blunt haircut and fringe is one length => not need to blend
-- if working with layered or graduated shapes => blend length of fringe into sides and/or top

Razor Cutting
- provides different kind of result from other haircutting procedures
- softer appearance than shear cutting
- excellent choice when working with medium to fine hair textures
- entire haircut moves and blends more
- when using shears, usually cut ends of hair blunt
- when with razor, ends are cut at angle and line is NOT blunt
-- softer shapes with more visible separation, or a "feathered" effect on ends
- with razor, only one blade cutting hair, much finer blade than shears
- with shears, 2 blades close on hair creating blunt ends
- any haircut done with shears can also do with razor
- cut horizontal, vertical, and diagonal lines
- difference => guide above fingers
-- shears, guide usually below fingers
- 2 commonly used methods for cutting with razor
- 1. razor is kept more parallel to subsection
-- technique mainly used to thin ends of hair, and entire length of blade is used
- 2. come into subsection with blade at angle (45 degrees)
-- using 1/3 of blade to make small strokes as you work through subsection
- if blade is not entering hair at an angle, and you attempt to "push" the razor through hair => putting added stress to hair & risk losing control
- always remember => blade need to be at an angle when entering hair
- when cutting a section, usually move from top to bottom, or side to side, depending on section and finger angle

Razor Cutting Tips
- make sure hair in good condition
- never use razor on curly hair, coarse wiry hair, or overprocessed, damaged hair
- always use guard
- always use new blade
-- work with dull blade painful for client, puts added stress on hair
-- discard used blades in puncture-proof container
- keep hair wet
-- cutting dry hair make frizz and be painful to client
- always work with razor at an angle
-- never force razor through hair

Slide Cuttting
- method of cutting or thinning hair
- fingers and shears glide along edge of hair to remove length
- useful for removing length, blending shorter lengths to longer lengths and texturizing
- perfect way to layer very long hair and keep weight at the erimeter
- rather than opening and closing shears, keep the partially open as you "slide" along end of section
- only performed on wet hair with razor-sharp shears
- 2 methods of holding subsection when slide cutting
- important to visualize line to cut before you begin
- 1. hold subsection with tension beyond cutting line
- 2. place shears on top of knuckles, then use both hands to move simultaneously out to length

Shears-Over-Comb (Scissors-Over-Comb)
- barbering technique crossed over into cosmetology
- hold hair in place with comb while using tips of shears to remove lengths
- used to create very short tapers and allows you to cut from an extremely short length to longer lengths
- start at hairline and work way to longer lengths
- best on dry hair => you see exactly how much hair you are cutting and maintain control
- lift (elevate) hair away from head using comb
- allow comb to act as guide
- do not hold hair between fingers
- let shears nd comb move simultaneously up the head
- crucial one blade stays still and remains parallel to spine of comb as you move thumb blade to close shears
- strive for continual motion
- stopping motion cause "steps" or visible weight lines in hair
- practice moving comb and shears simultaneously, keeping bottom blade still and opening and closing shears with thumb

Basic steps working with shears-over-comb technique
1. stand directly in front of section. area you are cutting should be eye level
2. place comb, teeth first, into hairline, and turn comb so that teeth are angled away from head
3. with still blade parallel to spine of comb, begin moving comb up the head, continually opening and closing thumb blade smoothly and quickly
4. angle comb farther away from head as you reach area you are blending to avoid cutting into length (weight)

Shears-Over-Comb Tips
- work in small areas at a time (no wider than blade)
- always start at hairline and work up toward length
-- may even run comb again through a previously cut section, on your way up to new area
- cross-check by working across area diagonally
- use barber comb to cut areas very close (usually on sideburns and hairlines where hair is cut close to scalp)
-- switch to regular cutting comb as your work up to longer lengths



Tips: Ticket Upgrading
- if you refer client to colour specialist in salon, you have increased her total ticket (upselling)

Texturizing
- process of removing excess bulk without shortening length
- cut for effect within hair length, casing wispy or spiky effects
- should not be confused with hair texture => diameter of hair strand
- add volume, remove volume, make hair move, blend one area to another
- compensate for different densities that exist within same head of hair
- done with cutting shears, thinning shears, or a razor
- many texturizing techniques

Texturizing with Shears
- Point Cutting:
-- technique performed on ends of hair using tips, or points, of the shears
-- wet or dry hair
-- dry hair => hair stands up and away from fingers
-- hold hair 1-2 inches (2.5-5cm) from ends
-- turn wrist so tips of shears pointing into ends, palms facing away from you
-- open and close shears by moving thumb as you work across section
-- as you close shears, move them away from your fingers to avoid cutting yourself
-- move them back toward fingers as you open them
-- more vertical shear angle removes less hair
-- more diagonal shears angle, more hair taken away, chunkier the effect
- Notching:
-- another version of point cutting
-- more aggressive and creates chunkier effect
-- done toward ends
-- hold section about 3 inches (7.5cm) from ends
-- place tips of shears about 2 inches (5cm) from ends
-- close shears as you quickly move them out toward ends
-- if thick hair, repeat motion every 1/8 inch (.3cm)
-- on medium to fine, place notches further apart
-- done on wet or dry hair
- Free-Hand Notching:
-- also uses tips of sears
-- do not slide shears but snip out pieces of hair at random intervals
-- generally used throughout interior of the sections, rather than at ends
-- works well on curly hair, when not desirable to ad too many layers, but to release curl and remove some density
- Slithering or Effilating:
-- process of thinning hair to graduated lengths with shears
-- hair strand is cut by sliding movement of the shears, with blades kept partially opened
-- reduces volume and creates movement
- Slicing:
-- technique that removes bulk and adds movement through the lengths of the hair
-- never close shears
-- use only the portion of the blades near pivot => prevents removing large piece of hair
-- performed within a subsection or just on the surface with haircutting or texturizing shears
-- to slice an elevated subsection, work with either wet or dr hair
-- to slice on surface of haircut, best to work on dry hair => you can see exactly how much hair you are taking away
- Carving:
-- version of slicing that creates a visual separation in hair
-- works best on short hair (1 1/2 to 3 inches, or 3.75 - 7.5cm)
-- done by placing still blade into hair and resting it on scalp
-- move shears through hair, gently opening and partially closing shears as you move, thus "carving" out areas
-- more horizontal the shears => more hair removed
-- more vertical the shears => less hair removed
- by carving ends, you can add texture and separation to perimeter of haircut by holding ends of a small strand of hair between thumb and index fingers, and carving on surface of strand
-- begin carving about 3 inches from ends toward your fingers

Texturizing with Thinning Shears
- Removing Bulk (Thinning):
-- originally created for thinning out hair and blending
-- many clients afraid of word "thinning"
-- more modern word "removing bulk" or "removing weight"
-- best to follow same sectioning as in original haircut
-- comb subsection out and cut with thinning shears, at least 4-5 inches (10 - 12.5cm) from scalp
-- on longer lengths, you may need to repeat process again as you move out toward ends
-- on coarse hair textures, stay farther away from scalp, as sometimes shorter hairs will poke through haircut
-- on blunt haircuts, avoid thinning top surfaces => see visible lines
-- on curly hair, best to use free--hand notching technique rather than thinning shears
- Removing Weight from Ends:
-- use thinning shears to remove bulk from ends
-- works on many hair textures
-- taper perimeter of both graduated and blunt haircuts
-- elevating each subsection out from head, place thinning shears into hair at angle and close shears a few times as you work toward ends
- Thinning Shears-Over-Comb:
-- useful for blending weight lines on finer textures of hair
-- can be used on thick and coarse haircut that are very short, especially in sides and nape
-- help to hair to lie closer to head
- Other Thinning Shears Techniques:
-- any texturizing technique that can be performed with regular haircutting shears may also be done with thinning shears
-- when working on fine or thin hair, try using thinning shears for carving, point cutting, and slicing
-- keeps from overtexturizing and removing too much weight

Texturizing with Razor
- Removing Weight:
-- thin out ends
-- on damp hair, hold section out from head, fingers at ends
-- place razor flat to hair, 2-3 inches (5-7.5cm) away from fingers
-- gently stroke razor, removin thin "sheet" of hair from area
-- this tapers ends of section and can be used on any area of haircut where this effect is desired
- Free-Hand Slicing:
-- used throughout section or at ends
-- done on wet hair
-- working in the midshaft of subsection, comb hair out from head, and hold it with your fingers close to ends
-- with tip of razor, slice out pieces of hair
-- more vertical the movement => less hair you remove
-- more horizontal the movement => more hair you remove
-- releases weight from subsection, allowing it to move more
-- do on ends of hair to produce softer perimeter or to create separation throughout shape
-- hold ends of small piece of hair in your fingertips
-- begin about 3 inches from fingers, slice down one side of piece toward fingers
- Razor-Over-Comb:
-- comb and razor used on surface of hair
--- softens weight lines and causes area to lie closer to head
-- mainly on shorter haircuts
-- 2 approaches
-- 1. place comb into hair, teeth pointing down, a few inches above area on which you will be working
--- make small, gentle strokes on surface of har with razor
--- move comb down as you move razor down
-- 2. Razor rotation:
--- very similar to razor-over-comb
--- difference is to make small circular motions
--- begin by combing hair in direction you will be moving in
--- place razor on surface of hair
--- allow comb to follow razor, combing through area just cut, then comb back into section or onto new section
--- softens texture of area and gives direction to haircut

Basic Hiarcuts Enhanced with Texturizing Techniques
- ie. blunt haircut before freehand razor slicing
- ie. graduated haircut before freehand shears slicing
- ie. uniform layered haircut before notching on ends and free-hand notching on interior

Clippers, Edgers, and Trimmers
- Clippers:
-- electric devices that cut hair by using 2 moving blades held in place by metal plate with teeth
-- mainly used to cut shorter haircuts
-- used to create tapers, which sit very close to hairline and gradually get longer as you move up head
-- 1. used without length guards, to remove hair completely (cleaning up neckline and around ears)
-- 2. used without length guard, to taper hairlines from extremely short lengths into longer lengths, using clipper-over-comb technique (clipper move sideways across the comb rather than bottom to top)
--3. used with length guards, attachments fitting over blade plate and vary in size from 1/8  - 1 inch

Tools for Clipper Cutting
- Clippers:
-- come in different shapes and sizes
-- used with or without attachments
-- Edgers, also called Trimmers, are usually cordless, smaller-sized clippers
--- mainly used to clean necklines and around ears
-- clean clippers and edgers after each use with clipper brush
-- disinfect detachable blade and heel after each use
-- follow manufacturer's instructions for care and cleaning
- Length Guard Attachments:
-- cut all hair evenly to exact length
-- range from 1/8 - 1 inch (.3 - 2.5cm) wide
-- can be sued in different combinations to create different lengths
- Haircutting Shears:
-- used mainly for removing length and detailing haircut
- Thinning Shears: Blending or Tapering Shears
-- removes excess bulk and for blending one area with another
- Combs:
-- regular cutting comb
--- wider-spaced teeth => geared for combing and cutting
--- finer-spaced teeth => used for detailing, shears-over-comb, and clipper-over-comb techniques
-- classic barbering comb
--- used in nape, at sides, and around ears
--- allows you to cut hair very short and close to head
-- wide-toothed comb
--- used to cut thicker & longer lengths, where detailing not required

Basic Clipper Techniques
- clipper-over-comb
- clipper cutting with length guard attachments

Clipper-Over-Comb
- cuts hair very close to scalp and create a flat-top or square shape
- use comb like working with shears-over-comb
-- difference: clippers move across comb => requires you to keep comb in position as you cut
- angle at which you hold comb, determines amount of hair that is cut
- clippers most accurate when used on dry hair
- use lever switch on clipper or a numbered attachment to vary distance that clipper is held from head
- 1. stand directly in front of section. area you are cutting at eye level
- 2. place comb, teeth first, into hairline, turn comb so that teeth angled slightly away from head
-- always work against growth patterns of hair to ensure lifting hair away from head and cutting evenly
- 3. hold comb stationary and cut length against the comb, moving clippers from right to left (left to right if left-handed)
- 4. fluid movements, remember to stop momentarily to cut section
-- remove comb from hair and begin motion again, using previously cut section underneath as guideline
-- continue working up head toward weight or length

Clipper Cutting with Attachments
- create short hircuts
- ie. use 1/4 inch guide in nape and sides
- ie. switch to 1/2 inch guide as you reach parietal area
-- maintain more length at parietal and produce square shape

Using Edgers and Trimmers
- using edgers around ears
-- use both hands to hold edger sideways
-- using just outer edge on skin, arc edger up and around ear
-- as you reach behind ear, use comb to hold hair in place, continue with arcing motion
- using edgers at neckline
-- clean up hair on heck that grows below design line
-- edgers create more defined lines at perimeter

Men's Basic Clipper Cut
- hair is close-croped along bottom and sides and become longer as you travel up head
- distance between comb and scalp determines amount of hair to cut
- clipper can be positioned horizontally, vertically, or diagonally

Tips for Clipper Cutting
- always work against natural growth patterns, especially in nape
-- ensures elevating hair away from head and cutting hair evenly
- always work in small sections
-- when clipper-over-combing, do not try to cut all the way across entire length of comb
-- area you are cutting should be no wider than 3 inches
- when using clipper-over-comb technique, angle of comb determines cutting angle
- if comb is parallel to head, you will cut hair the same length as you move up head
-- if comb is angled away from head as you move, you begin to build length

Trimming Facial Hair
- clippers and edgers used to trim beards and moustaches
- technique similar to shears-over-comb and clipper-over-comb
- when removing length, use comb to control hair, and always cut against comb
- use length guard attachments to trim a beard to desired length
- if you choose to use haircutting shears to trim facial hair -> keep a less expensive pair for this purpose
-- facial hair is very coarse and may dull haircutting shears
- some male clients have excess hair in ears
- when performing haircut or trimming facial hair, always check ears and ask client if he'd like to remove any excess hair you may find
- carefully snip away hair with shears, using extreme caution

Procedure 3 - Blunt Haircut

Implements & Materials
- towels
- shampoo cape
- shampoo & conditioner
- cutting cape
- wide-tooth comb
- cutting or styling comb
- four sectioning clips
- haircutting shears
- water spray bottle
- neck strip

Preparation
1. perform client consultation and hair analysis
2. drape client for shampooing, using 2 towels
3. shampoo and condition hair as necessary
4. towel-dry hair. remove towel around neck and dispose of properly, leaving 2nd towel in place to prevent excess water from dripping on client
5. escort client back to styling chair. secure neck strip around neck. place cape over neck strip and fasten in back. fold neck strip down over cape so no part of cape touches client's skin

Procedure
1. detangle hair with wide-tooth comb.  comb hair back and away from face to find natural part, or part hair way client will be wearing it
2. take centre part, from hairline to nape, dividing head in 2
3. find apex of head. take parting from apex to back of ear on both sides, and clip.  you have now divided head into 4 sections
4. beginning in nape, on left side, take horizontal parting 1/4 to 1/2 inch (.6 - 1.25cm) from hairline, depending on density of hair.  creates 1st subsection
5. with client's head upright, comb subsection in natural fall from scalp to ends. with dominant hand, comb subsection again, stopping just above cutting line. make sure comb is horizontal and just above cutting line (desired length). cut subsection straight across against skin, remembering to keep your shears horizontal and parallel to floor. repeat on right-hand side, using length of first subsection as a guide. check to make sure your cutting line is straight before moving on. you have now created guideline for entire haircut
6. if hairline lies down nicely, alternative way of cutting a blunt line in nape is to comb down subsection and hold hair again skin with edge of your nondominant hand. cut guideline before your hand, making sure your shears are horizontal and parallel to floor
7. returning to let side, take another horizontal parting, creating a subsection same size as previous. general rule: see guide through the new subsection. if you cannot see guide, take a smaller subsection. comb hair down in natural fall, cut length to match guide. repeat on right side
8 continue working up back of head, alternating from left section to right, using 1/2 inch subsections
9. when in crown area (danger zone), pay close attention to natural fall of hair. comb hair into its natural falling position, and cut with little or no tension to match guide, you have now completed back of haircut
10. now move to sides of haircut. beginning on left side, take a horizontal parting and part off portion from back area to match. ensure that you maintain consistency with blunt line when connecting back to sides. take a subsection large enough to give even amount of hair at cutting line, allowing for protrusion of ear. comb hair from scalp to ends, release subsection, allow hair to hang in natural fall. using wide teeth, place comb back into the subsection just below ear. slide comb down to just above cutting line. holding comb parallel to floor, cut hair straight across just below comb, connecting line to back. repeat on right side
11. when working on right side (left if left-handed), your shears will be pointing toward back. maintain consistency in line, take smaller subsections, connecting at ear first, and gradually move forward with line until face reached
12. alternative way to approach right side (left if left-handed) is to turn wrist so that palm is facing upward and shears are pointing toward face. requires you position body slightly behind section, with your elbow dropped down. either method gives you consistent result in your line
13. before moving on, check both sides for evenness. stand behind client and check length on both sides while looking in mirror. make any adjustments needed
14. continue working up left side with horizontal partings, until all hair has been cut to match guide. when cutting hair that falls along face, make sure to comb hair so it lines on sides, not front, of face. repeat on right side
15. cross-check haircut using vertical sections, making sure not overdirecting hair. elevate hair slightly and cut off excess hair, removing only minimal amounts
16. sweep cut hair from floor and dispose properly
17. blow-dry haircut.  in order to get a true reading of haircut, it is best to perform a smooth blow-dry, with very little lift at scalp
18. once haircut is dry, have client stand. check line in mirror. time to clean up any hair at neckline and to check where hair falls when dry. use wide teeth comb to connect crown area. if section was left longer during haircut, now is the time to connect it into line
19. remove drape and neck strip from client and dispose properly
20. brush loose hair from client's neck and face. escort client to reception area

Cleanup and Sanitation
1. disinfect all shears, combs, and brushes used during haircut by immersing in a hospital-level disinfectant
2. sanitize workstation, making sure it is clean and neat for next client
3. wash hands with soap and warm water



TIP: density (thickness) of hair determine size of subsection.
- thicker the hair => narrower subsection
- thinner hair => wider subsection
- to create narrower subsections, partings need to be closer together
- create wider subsections, partings farther apart
- if too much hair in subsection, becomes difficult to control hair => hair is "pushed" away as you close shears, producing uneven line

TIP: using comb to control hair allows you to cut with very little tension.
- allows hair to do what it wants naturally and still maintain clean line

TIP: crown area called "danger zone" => irregular growth patterns most apparent
- crown particually problematic when dealing with blunt haircuts
- look at scalp to see natural growth pattern
- may leave this area out until very end of haircut, or cut it lightly longer than guideline
- once hair is dry, you can see where it falls, then match length to guideline
- another danger zone is around ears => ears not lie flat against head
- take special steps to keep a clean cutting line
- always work with very little tension, or no tension, around ears, unless you are working with shorter layers


Procedure  4 - Graduated Haircut


Implements & Materials / Preparation
- same for procedure 3 - blunt haircut

Procedure
1. part hair into 6 sections. begin with part from front hairline, just above middle of each eyebrow back to crown area and clip hair in place. establish another part from crown area where section 1 ends to back of each ear, forming side sections 2 and 3, clipping sections in place. part hair down centre of back to form sections 4 and 5. take a horizontal part from one ear to the other across nape area, about 1 inch (2.5cm) above hairline. this section 5 is your horizontal guide section.
2. establish guideline by first cutting centre of nape section to desired length. use horizontal cutting line parallel to fingers. cut right and left sides of nape section same length as centre guideline
3. working upward in left back section, measure and part off first horizontal section approximately 1 inch wide
4. beginning at centre part, establish vertical subsection approximately 1/2 inch (1.25cm) wide. extend subsection down to include nape guideline. comb subsection smooth at 45-degree angle to scalp. hold fingers at 90-degree angle to strand and cut
5. proceed to cut entire horizontal section by parting off vertical subsections and cutting same manner as step 4. check each section vertically and horizontally throughout haircut. each completed section will serve as guideline for next section
6. part off another horizontal section approximately 1 inch wide. beginning at centre, create another vertical subsection that extends down and includes previously cut strands. comb hair smoothly at 45-degree elevation to head. hold fingers and shears at 90-degree angle to subsection and cut. cut entire horizontal section in this manner.  make sure 2nd section blends evenly with previously cut section
7. continue taking horizontal sections throughout left and right back sections and follow same cutting procedure. hair will gradually become longer as it reaches apex. ie. if your nape guide was 2.5 inches (6.25cm), your upper crown section will be approximately 6 inches (15cm)
8. maintain length in upper crown by holding each vertical subsection throughout crown area at 90-degree angle while cutting. after checking back and crown for even blending, proceed to left side section
9. establish narrow guide section on left side at hairline approximately 1/2 inch wide. side guideline should be same length as nape. move to right side of head and establish matching guideline. this will help ensure both side section same length when right side section cut later
10. establish 1/2 inch side section that curves and follows hairline above ear back to nape section. smoothly comb section, including side guideline and part of nape section
11. holding hair with little or no tension, cut hair from nape guide to side guide. note fingers are held at slight angle to connect the 2 guides
12. establish horizontal section on left side. width of this section will vary because of irregular hairline around ear
13. starting at ear, part 1/2 inch vertical subsection. include underlying guideline and small portion of nape section
14. continue same cutting procedure followed thus far. take vertical subsections, comb smoothly, elevate at 45-degree angle from head, holding fingers at 90-degree angle to strand. cut section even with side guideline and nape section. be sure to hold vertical subsections straight out from head at 45-degrees, not pulled to right or left
15. continue establishing horizontal sections on left side of head and follow same cutting procedure. check each section horizontally to ensure ends evenly blended. add strands from back section when checking to ensure 2 sections are uniform in length
16. when left side section is complete, strands in uppermost part of section should be same length as those in upper crown area. in final 1 inch section, comb vertical subsections and hold them at 90-degree angle to head. position fingers at 90-degrees to strand and cut parallel to fingers. check completed section horizontally to make sure ends are even
17. move to right side of head and cut hair in same manner as left side, using previously established guide. once back and both sides are complete, move to fringe and top areas
18. create variety of fringe designs by cutting fringe length close to that of side guideline. create fringe guide section along hairline about 1/2 inch wide. starting at centre part and working on left side of forehead, cut to desired length
19. comb fringe section, including centre guide strand and a small portion of side area. connecting 2 guidelines determine angle of cut
20. cut fringe section at low elevation. check cut for evenness and accuracy
21. establish 1 inch section parallel to fringe guideline. beginning in centre, take narrow vertical subsections about 1/2 inch wide include underlying guideline. comb strand smoothly and elevate from head 45 degrees. continue cutting procedure throughout fringe area. fringe section should blend evenly with side section
22. cut remainder of fringe area on right side of head in same manner as left side
23. finish top section by taking 1/2 inch vertical subsections parallel to centre part. hold hair up from head at 90 degree angle. include hair from crown and fringe areas and cut to blend section with 2 precut sections. continue cutting until remainder of top section cut. hold hair up from head at 90 degrees and check completed cut. trim any uneven ends. fringe guide gradually increases in length to preestablished length in top and crown areas
24. blow-dry haircut and view design, movement, and evenly blended ends
25. follow cleanup and sanitation steps in procedure 3 - blunt haircut

Procedure 5 - Uniform Layered Haircut

Implements & Materials / Preparations
- same as procedure 3 - blunt haircut

Procedure
1. create guideline, take 2 partings 1/2 inch (1.25cm) apart, creating a section that runs from front hairline to bottom of nape
2. beginning at crown, comb section straight out from head, keeping fingers parallel to head form, and cut to desired length. continue working forward to front hairline, standing to the side of client
3. continue cutting guideline from crown to nape, rounding off any corners, making sure fingers are parallel to head form
4. maintain control and consistency while working through haircut, separate sides from back by parting hair from apex to back of ear. work through back areas first. parting pattern will be wedge-shaped, where each section begins at same point in crown and slightly wider at bottom of nape
5. work through right side first. take vertical parting that begins at crown and connects with guideline, creating vertical section that ends at hairline. keep sections small to maintain control. beginning at crown and using previously cut guideline, comb new section to guide, elevate hair straight out from head, with no overdirection. cut line by keeping fingers parallel to head and matching guideline
6. continue working with travelling guideline to back of ear. repeat on left side. when working on left side of back, shift body position so that tips of shears are pointing down and fingers holding section are pointing up. by shifting hand position, you control section, meaning you are reversing hand position used when you cut right side of back
7. cross-check entire back area. take horizontal sections and elevate hair at 90 degrees from head. while checking, see a line that runs parallel to shape of head
8. section off top area by taking a parting that begins at recession area and ends at crown, just above parietal ridge on both sides. clip sides out of way
9. cut top area using vertical partings, using previously cut centre section as guideline, connect to crown, holding each section straight up at 90 degrees from head form. do not overdirect hair
10. cross-check top, using horizontal partings and elevating hair 90 degrees from head form
11. now move to right side. work from back of ear toward face, using vertical sections, and connect to previous section at back of ear and top. comb hair straight out from head form at 90 degrees, removing any corners. repeat on left side, shifting body position so that tips of shears are pointing down and fingers holding section are pointing up.
12. cross-check side sections, using horizontal partings and combing hair straight out at 90 degrees
13. comb hair down. notice soft perimeter and rounded head shape
14. blow-dry haircut, using vent brush to encourage movement, and complete
15. follow cleanup and sanitation steps in procedure 3 - blunt haircut

Procedure 6 - Long Layered (180-Degree) Haircut

Implements & Materials / Preparations
- same for procedure 3 - blunt haircut

Procedure
1. part hair into 5 cutting sections
2. begin at top of crown taking 1/2 inch (1.25cm) subsection across head. comb straight up from head form and cut straight across
3. work to front of top section by taking 2nd 1/2 inch subsection. direct 1st subsection (guideline) to 2nd one and cut to same length
4. continue using previously cut subsection as guideline to cut new 1/2 inch subsection throughout top section
5. on left front section, using 1/2 inch horizontal subsections, comb hair straight up and match previously cut hair (guideline) in top section. continue working down side, using 1/2 inch subsections until hair no longer reaches guide
6. repeat on right side
7. at top of left rear section, using 1/2 inch horizontal subsections, comb hair straight up from head form, matching length to top section (guideline) and cut straight across
8. continue using 1/2 inch horizontal subsections and working from top to bottom until hair no longer reaches guideline
9. repeat on right side until hair no longer reaches guideline
10. blow-dry hair

Procedure 7 - Men's Basic Clipper Cut

Implements & Materials
- cutting cape
- neck strip
- haircutting comb
- barber comb
- haircutting shears
- clipper
- trimmer
- small-number guard attachment (optional)

Procedure
1. clean and dry hair
2. make horseshoe parting about 2 inches (5cm) below apex of head, beginning and ending at front hairline. comb hair above the part forward
3. staring at nape, place haircutting comb against scalp, teeth up. angle comb against scalp from 0 - 45 degrees, allowing for natural contour of head. cut hair that extends though teeth of comb
4. repeat step 3 as you move up back of head. blend lengths over curve of head by cross-cutting horizontally, from side to side. shape back centre area first, from nape to parietal ridge. still using clipper-over-comb technique, cut both sides of back from ear to ear
5. carefully blend lengths over curve of head by cross-cutting
6. using small number attachment on clipper, cut up each side from sideburn to parietal ridge. hair lengths will be very close to scalp. if client wants longer sides, weight on top should not overpower sides; it should blend. if sides are very short, top should be cut shorter to blend
7. measure distance between eyebrows and natural hairline to establish an appropriate guideline for length in crown area
8. cut narrow guideline at crown end of horseshoe parting. determine length by forehead measurement beginning at crown end, cut top area with clipper to exact length of initial crown guideline. as you move toward forehead, pull hair back toward guideline in order to increase length at forehead
9. using clipper and attachment, shorten and shape hair around ears and sideburns. continue to cut hair until shape of head and length of hair are in harmony. to blend or outline perimeter of haircut, use clipper or trimmer. shears-over-comb or clipper-over-comb technique, using front teeth of a barber comb, may also be used
10. follow cleanup and sanitation steps in procedure 3 - blunt haircut

Notes for Braiding & Braid Extensions

Braiding & Braid Extensions
- origins in Africa
-- reached peak of social and aesthetic significance, regarded as art form handed down from generation to generation
-- very time consuming, opportunity for women to socialize and form bonds of trust
- traditional cultures, different styles of braiding signified person's social status within community
-- more important person was, more elaborate braiding
- braiding patterns indicated woman's marital status
- braiding styles distinguished one's tribe, age, economic status, occupation, geographic location, or religious and social standing
- today braiding styles tell person's self-esteem and self-image
- braiding salons sprung up in urban US
-- practice Natural Hairstyling
--- no chemicals or tints
--- does not alter natural curl or coil pattern of hair
--- African-American heritage

Client Consultation
- some braiding styles takes hours/days to complete
- with proper care, braiding pattern last up to 3 months
- focus on client's needs and expectations
- build trust and confidence
-- makes client more expressive about self-image
- have a quiet spot to talk, take notes, and have pictures of styles on hand
- be friendly, warm, and listen
- fill out client card and update each time client returns
-- note scalp, hair problems, chemical history, and home-care products used

Hair Analysis
- during consultation, be aware of hair texture
1. diameter of hair: coarse, medium or fine
2. feel: oil, dry, hard, soft, smooth, coarse, wiry
3. wave pattern or coil configuration: straight, wavy, curly, or coiled

- curl is a very tight curl pattern
-- spiral in formation, lengthened or stretched, resembles series of loops
-- "textured hair" = hair with a tight coil pattern
- take note of hair's density and length, areas where air is thinner, damaged, or broken
-- certain braiding styles may be difficult to execute
- avoid direct tension on hairline or partings along hairline

Facial Shapes
- determine what best complements client's most attractive features
- first observe facial structure and distinct facial features
- understand and appreciate distinct characteristics of different ethnic groups

Flattering braid styles for facial types and features:
- Oval facial type: most braided styles
- Round facial type: add height to create illusion of thinness
-- updo braiding styles add length to face
-- asymmetrical styles that show ears create slenderizing look
-- braided styles with waves or full curls frame face and help create balance
- Square facial type: choose full styles framing face around forehead temples and jawline
-- illusion of length and soften facial lines
-- wisps of hair or a tapered fringe also help soften angular lines
- Diamond facial type: create styles full around forehead or jawline to help create more oval appearance
-- full bangs or partial bangs help counter narrow forehead
-- keep braids close to head along cheekbones
-- avoid updo styles and styles that move away from cheeks or hairline
- Triangular (pear-shaped) facial type: soft fringes around forehead camouflages small forehead
-- styles that frame cheekbones, close to ears, or go behind ears reduces wide chin line
- Inverted triangle (heart-shaped) facial type: minimize width of forehead by styling with partial bangs or wisps of hair and/or braids that frame face
-- add fullness around chin
- Oblong facial type: create full styles make face appear shorter or wider
-- fullness must not be overpowering
-- soft, partial bangs or wisps of curls along face softens facial lines
-- braids should be kept to a medium length
-- avoid middle parts => add length to long narrow face

FYI: "natural" or "virgin" => hair with no previous colouring/lightening treatments, chemicals, or physical abuse
- styles used includes braid extensions, twists (2 strands overlapped to form a "candy cane" effect), weaving, wrapping, and locks (African locks or dreadlocks)
- for African-Americans, these styles are proud acknowledgement of their cultural heritage

Understanding Basics

Braiding Tools
- Boar-Bristle Brush (natural hairbrush):
-- best for stimulating scalp & removing dirt & lint
-- Nylon-bristle brushes => not as durable (may snag hair)
-- soft nylon brushes may be option for fine, soft hair around hairline
- Square Paddle Brush:
-- good for short textured hair and long straight hair
-- flexible, antistatic rubber bristles bend and release tangles, knots, and snarls
- Vent Brush:
-- has single or double row of teeth
--- useful, when used gently, to remove tangles on wet wavy or dry curly hair
-- excellent also on human hair extensions
- Wide-Tooth Comb:
-- available in variety of shapes and designs
-- ply through hair with little snarling
-- teeth width from medium to large, have long rounded tips to avoid scratching scalp
-- distance between teeth more important feature of this comb
-- larger spacing allows textured hair to move between rows of teeth with ease
- Tail Comb:
-- excellent for design parting, sectioning large segments of hair, and opening and removing braids
- Double-Tooth Comb:
-- excellent on wet, curly hair
-- designed to minimize tangling and snarling
- Finishing Comb:
-- usually 8 to 10 inches in length
-- used while cutting
-- works well on fine or straight hair
- Cutting Comb:
-- cutting small sections
-- used only after hair is softened and elongated with blow-dryer
- Pick with Rounded Teeth:
-- useful for lifting and separating textured hair
-- has long and widely-spaced teeth
-- commonly made of metal, plastic, wood, or ivory
- Blow-Dryer with Pick Nozzle:
-- loosen curl pattern in textured hair for braiding styles
-- dries, stretches, and softens textured hair
-- use hard plastic pick nozzle => metal becomes too hot
- Diffuser:
-- dries hair without disturbing finished look and without removing moisture
- Five-Inch Scissors:
-- create shape and finished look
-- trimming fringes and excess extension material
- Long Clips:
-- for separating hair into large sections
- Butterfly & Small Clips:
-- for separating hair into small or large sections
- Hood Dryer:
-- used to remove excess moisture before blow-drying hair
-- eliminates excessive use of blow-drying and reduces direct heat on hair

Implements & Materials for Extensions:
- Extension Materials:
-- Kanekalon
-- nylon synthetic
-- rayon synthetic
-- human hair
-- yarn
-- lin
-- yak
- Hackle:
-- a board of fine, upright nails through which human hair extensions are combed
-- used for detangling or blending colours and highlights
- Drawing Board:
-- flat leather pads with very close and fine teeth that sandwich human hair extensions
-- pads are weighted down with books and required amount of hair is extracted without loosening and disturbing rest of hair during process of braiding

Materials for Extensions
- new products: buy in small quantities and test fibre on a mannequin before using on client
- Human Hair:
-- standard against which we compare all hair products
-- most imported from Asia but little known how it was produced or processed
-- there are disreputable dealers and wholesalers who misrepresent their product
-- prepackaged human hair less expensive than hair customized by wholesaler
-- if no wholesaler, consider mail order
- Kanekalon:
-- manufactured synthetic fibre of excellent quality
-- texture similar to extremely curly or coiled hair types
-- does not reflect light => less shine
-- comes in variety of colours, versatile, and easy to match with natural hair colours
-- durable, soft, and less inclined to tangle than other synthetics
-- holds up to shampooing and styling
-- cost more than other synthetics => better quality product
-- feels smooth to both client's scalp and your fingers
-- will not cut or damage natural hair as less expensive products might
- Nylon or Rayon Synthetic:
-- less expensive than kanekalon
-- available in varying qualities
-- reflects light => very shiny
-- known to cut or break hair
-- repeated shampooing less durable
-- melt in high heat
- Yarn:
-- cotton or nylon blend
-- inexpensive & easy to find
-- expand when shampooing
-- not slip from base
-- durable for braids
-- light, soft, detangles easily
-- does not reflect any light => matte finish
-- available in many colours, most common black or brown
-- some that appear jet black may show blue or green tint in natural light
- Lin:
-- woll fibre imported from Africa
-- matte finish
-- black or brown
-- often used for Senegalese twists and "corkscrew" braid styles generally not shampooed
-- comes in a roll and used in any length and size
-- very flammable
- Yak:
-- strong fibre from domestic ox in mountains of Tibet and Central Asia
-- shaved and processed to use alone or blended with human hair
-- small mixture of yak with human hair removes manufactured shine

Working with Wet or Dry Hair
- best to braid hair when dry
-- allow hair to fall naturally, without tension
-- after shampoo, towel-blot without rubbing, using several towels if necessary
-- apply leave-in conditioner => combing hair easier
-- begin combing at the ends and gently work out tangles, moving upward toward scalp
--- use wide-tooth comb
-- blow-dry hair
-- long straight hair can be slightly dampened with spray bottle to keep layered or split ends in place
--- pomades, gels, or lotions can be used to hold hair in place for finished look
- when hair braided wet, shrinks and recoils as it dries
-- creates excess pulling and tension
-- hair dries tightly around braid => breakage or hair loss from pulling or twisting
- if using style requiring wet hair while being manipulated, must allow for shrinkage
- textured hair very fragile both wet and dry
- blow-drying most effective way to prepare hair for braiding service
-- quickly dries hair
-- softens hair
-- more manageable for combing and sectioning
-- loosens and elongates wave pattern while stretching hair shaft length
-- great for short hair => easier manipulation of hair

Braiding the Hair
- braiding styles classified as: visible and invisible
- Visible Braid:
-- 3-strand braid employing underhand technique
-- strands of hair woven under centre strand
- Invisible Braid (Inverted Braid)
-- 3-strand braid produced by overlapping strands of hair on top of each other

Invisible Braid
- overhand pick-up technique
- done on scalp or off the scalp
- with or without extensions
- ideal for long hair
- can be successful on hair that is layered
-- must dampen slightly and gelled (to hold shorter strands in place)

Rope Braid
- 2 strands twisted around each other
- hair all one length or long layered hair
- remember to add to both sides before you twist the right side over left

Fishtail Braid
- 2-strand braid in which hair is picked up from the sides and added to the strands as they cross over each other
- best on dry, nonlayered hair at least shoulder length

Single Braids
- single braids, box braids, individual braids all refer to free-hanging braids, with or without extensions
- executed underhand or overhand stitch
- all hair textures in variety of ways
- ie. 2 or 3 single braids added to ponytail or chignon => lovely evening look
- partings or subsections for single braids can be square, triangular or rectangular
-- determines where braid is placed and how it moves
- single braid move in any direction
-- braid in the direction you want them to go
- extensions for single braids come in wide range of sizes and lengths and are integrated into natural hair using 3-strand underhand technique
- fibre for extensions can be selected from synthetic hair, yarn, or human hair
-- selection vital in determining finished style
-- braiding must be consistent and close together
- consultation step: open package of extension fibres and show to client to verify correct colour
- remove fibre from package and cut to desired length
- place half the extension fibres in bottom portion of drawing board and sandwich" them with upper portion of board
- to secure air extensions, place heavy object on top of board (a large book)
-- allows easy extraction of appropriate amount of fibres for the braids
- hair extensions can also be separated and dispensed by free-hand method

Cornrows (Canerows)
- narrow rows of visible braids that lie close to scalp
- 3-strand, on-the-scalp braid technique
- consistent and even partings
- use mannequin to practice, develop speed, accuracy, finger and wrist dexterity
- on various hair lengths and textures
- long straight hair => large cornrows are fashionable and elegant
- flat contoured styles lat several weeks when applied without extensions, and up to 2 months with extensions

Cornrows with Extensions (Feed-in Method)
- braid is build up strand by strand
- excess amounts of extension material can place too much weight on fragile areas of hairline and will tighten and pull hair to leave an unrealistic finished look
- apply proper tension using feed-in method => eliminate artificial look and prevent breakage
- traditional cornrow => flat, natural, contoured to scalp
-- parting important s it defines finished style
- feed-in method creates tapered or narrow base at hairline
- small pieces or strips of extension hair are added to fill in base, bringing adjoining braids closer together
-- this technique takes longer to perform than traditional cornrowing
-- cornrow achieved by feed-in method last longer, look more natural, will not place excessive tension on hairline
- pick up hair at base, the hair directly underneath previous revolution must be incorporated into braid
- hair you pick up must never come from another panel or be extended up into the braid from a lower part of the braid
- overextending or misplacing beginning of extension leaves hair exposed and unsupported
-- lead to breakage and hair loss in area (true at hairline)
- if extension is not made secure by 2 or 3 revolutions before picking up => shift away from point of entry

Locks (Dreadlocks)
- natural textured hair intertwined and meshed together to form a single or separate network of hair
- without chemicals
- hair locks in several slow phases
- 6 months to a year depending on length, density and coil pattern of hair
- cultural expression
- double twisting, wrapping with cord, coiling, braiding, simply not combing or brushing lock
- Rastafarians of Jamaica, leaving hair on its own natural course will cause it to lock
- cultivated African locks have symmetry and balance

3 basic methods of locking are as follows:
1. The comb technique
- effective during early stages of locking wile coil is still open
- place comb at base of scalp, with rotating motion spiraling hair into a curl
- with each revolution, comb moves down until end of hair shaft
- offers tight coil and excellent on short (1-3 inch) hair

2. Palm Roll
- gentlest on hair, guides it through all natural stages of locking
- takes advantage of hair's natural ability to coil
- apply gel to dampened subsections, placing portion of hair between palms of both hands, and rolling in clockwise or counterclockwise direction
- with each revolution, as you move down the coil shaft, entire coil is formed
- partings: directional, horizontal, vertical, or bricklayered
- decorative designs and sculpting patterns are some of the creative options you can choose

3. Braids or Extensions
- sectioning hair for desired size lock and single braiding the hair to end
- synthetic hair fibre, human hair fibre, or yarn can be added to single braid to form a lock
- after several weeks, braid will grow away from scalp
- palm roll method can be used on new growth to form a lock

The Developmental Phases of Locks
Phase 1 - Prelock Stage
- hair is soft and coiled inot spiral configurations
- coil is smooth and end is open
- coil has shiny or glossy texture

Phase 2 - Sprouting Stage
- hair begins to interlace and mesh
- separate units begin to "puff up" and expand in size
- units no longer glossy or smooth

Phase 3 - Growing Stage
- bulb can be felt at end of each lock
- interlacing continues
- hair begins to regain length
- lock may still be frizzy, but also solid in some areas
- locks are closed at ends, dense and dull, not reflecting any light

Phase 4 - Maturation Stage
- lock is totally closed at teh end
- hair is tightly meshed, giving the hair a rope-like cylinder shape, except where there is new growth at base

Phase 5 - Atrophy Stage
- after several years of maturation, the lock may start to weaken or come apart at the ends

Procedure 20 - Preparing Textured Hair for Braiding

Implements & Materials
- shampoo cape
- neck strip
- towels
- shampoo
- conditioner (protein or moisturizing)
- tail comb with large rounded teeth
- detangling solution (4 parts water to 1 part cream rinsed or oil) in spray bottle
- butterfly clips
- blow-drying cream or lotion with oil or glycerine base

Preparation
1. wash your hands
2. perform a client consultation and hair and scalp analysis
3. drape client for shampoo. If necessary, comb and detangle hair
4. shampoo, rinse, apply conditioner, and rinse thoroughly
5. gently towel-dry hair

Procedure
1. Part damp hair from ear to ear across crown. Use butterfly clips to separate front section from back section
2. Part back of head into 4-6 sections. For thick textured hair, make more sections to allow for increase ease and control.  For thinner hair, use fewer sections.  Front of half of head, where the hair is less dense, can be sectioned into 3 or more sections.  Separate sections with clips
3. Beginning on left section in back, start combing ends of hair first, working way up to base of scalp. Lightly spray section as you go along with detangling solution as needed. The combing movement should be fast and rhythmic, but not so much as to create tension on scalp. It is better to use a picking motion to comb through hair.
4. Once hair thoroughly combed, divide section into 2 equal parts and twist them to the end to hold section in place
5. Repeat steps 4 and 5 with the other sections of hair until entire head is sectioned
6. Place client under a medium heat hood dryer for 5-10 minutes to remove excess moisture
7. Open one of the combed sections. Using fingers, apply blow-drying cream to hair from scalp to ends
8. Using pick nozzle attachment on blow-dryer, hold hair down and away from client's head as you begin drying. Use a comb-out motion with pick, always pointing nozzle away from client.  As the ends relax and stretch, work blow-dryer with heat blowing downward, toward scalp. Blowing directly into scalp can cause a burn.  Hair is now ready to braid

Procedure 21 - Invisible Braid

Implements & Materials
- styling cape
- neck strip
- rubber band or fabric-covered elastic
- tail comb

Parparation
- shampoo and condition client's hair, then comb and blow-dry
- if client shampooed at home, brush hair with paddle brush

Procedure
1. At crown of head, take triangle section of hair and place it in your left hand.  Divide section in 3 equal strands
2. Place your fingers close to scalp for tight stitch.  For looser stitch, move away from scalp.  Cross right strand over the centre strand
3. Cross left strand over centre section and place it in your right hand
4. Place all 3 strands in your left hand with your fingers separating strands
5. With your right hand, pick up 1 inch (2.5cm) section of hair on right side.  Add to right strand in your left hand
6. Take combined strands in your right hand and cross them over the centre strand.  Place all strands in your right hand
7. With your left hand, pick up 1 inch section on left side.  Add this section to left outer strand in your right hand
8. Take combined strands and cross them over centre strand.  Place all 3 sections in your left hand.  Pick up on right side, and add to outer strand
9. Move down head with alternating pick-up movements.  Remember that the outer strands are added to and then crossed over the centre.  Continue these movements until braid is complete.  Secure braid with rubber band, then with ribbon or other accessory for a finished style

Cleanup & Sanitation
1. disinfect all implements
2. place capes and towels in hamper for laundering
3. sanitize your workstation
4. wash hands with soap and warm water

Procedure 22 - Rope Braid

Implements & Material / Preparation
- Same as procedure 21 - invisible braid

Procedure
1. Take a triangular section of hair from front.  If client has fringe, begin behind fringe
2. Divide section into 2 equal strands. Cross right strand over left strand
3. Place both stands in your right hand with your index finger in between and your palm facing upward
4. Twist left strand 2 times clockwise (toward centre)
5. Pick up a 1 inch (2.5cm) section from left side. Add this section to left strand
6. Put both strands in left hand with index finger in between and palm up
7. Pick up a 1 inch section from right side and add to right strand
8. Put both strands in right hand with index finger in between, your palm up
9. Hand twist toward left (counterclockwise) until palm is facing down
10. Repeat steps 3-9, working toward nape until style is done. Secure with rubber band
11. When you run out of sections to pick up, another option is to create a rope ponytail with remaining hair.  Twist left strand clockwise 2 or 3 times. Place strands in your right hand, index finger in between and palm up. Twist palm down (counterclockwise), right strand over left. Repeat until end of hair.  Secure ends with rubber band
12. Follow cleanup and sanitation procedures for procedure 21 - invisible braid

Procedure 23 - Fishtail Braid

Implements & Materials / Preparation
- same as procedure 21 - invisible braid

Procedure
1. Take triangular section from front.  If client has fringe, begin behind fringe.  Divide section into 2 strands
2. Cross right strand over left strand. Place both strands in right hand
3. Pick up a 1 inch (2.5cm) section on left side. Cross this section over left strand and add to right strand
4. Put both strands in left hand, index finger in between and palm up
5. Pick up a 1 inch section on right side. Cross section over right strand and add to left strand. You have now completed "X" shape
6. Put both strands in right hand, as in step 2
7. Repeat steps 3-6, moving hand down toward nape with each new section picked up.  When you run out of sections, secure hair with rubber band
8. Follow cleanup and sanitation procedures for procedure 21 - invisible braid

Procedure 24 - Single Braids without Extensions

Implements & Materials
- same as procedure 21 - invisible braid
- light essential oil
- butterfly clips
- small rubber bands (optional)
- oil sheen
- bobby pins

Procedure
1. Divide hair in half by parting from ear to ear across crown. Clip away front section
2. Based on style client selected, determine size and direction of base of braid
3. Par a diagonal section in back of head about 1 inch (2.5cm) wide, taking into account texture and length of client's hair
4. Divide section into 3 even strands. Place fingers close to base. Cross left strand under centre strand then cross right strand under
5. Pass outer strands under centre strands, moving down braid to end
6. Move to next section. Repeat braiding movement by passing the alternating outside strands under centre strand.  Keep an even tension on all strands
7. Repeat braiding procedure until back is completed. Repeat in front section
8. Try build up speed and accuracy to create straight and even braids. Rubber bands are optional to finish each braid
9. Follow cleanup and sanitation procedures for procedure 21 - invisible braid

Procedure 25 - Single Braids with Extensions

Implements & Materials
- same as procedure 24 - single braid
- extension fibres
- drawing board (optional)

Preparation
1. Shampoo, comb, and blow-dry client's hair
2. Prepare extension fibres

Procedure
1. Part hair across crown from ear to ear. Clip away front section
2. Part diagonal section in back of head at about 45-degree angle, from ear to nape of neck.  For a medium-size braid, this section can be from 1/4 inch (.6cm) to 1 inch (2.5cm) wide, depending on texture and length of client's hair
3. Using vertical parts to separate base in subsections, create a diamond-shaped base
4. Select appropriate amount of extension fibres.  It should always be proportional to section being applied.  For tapered end, gently pull extension fibres at both side so that ends are uneven.  Fold fibres in half.
5. divide natural hair into 3 equal sections.  Place folded extension on top of natural hair, on outside and centre portions of braid
6. Once extension is in place, begin underhand braiding movement.  Remember the outer strand should cross under centre strand.  Each time you pass an outer strand under centre strand, bring centre strand over tightly so that outside strand stays securely in centre.  As you move down braid, keep your fingers close to stitch, so braid remains tight and straight
7. Braid to desired length
8. Next section should be above previous section on a diagonal part, moving toward ear.  After several sections completed, alternate diagonal partings so V-shape pattern forms in back of head
9. Once back finished, create diagonal or horizontal parting above ear in front.  As you get closer to hairline, be aware of amount of extension hair that is applied to hairline. Do not add excessive amounts of fibre into fragile hairline.  Fibre should always be proportionate to hair to which it is being applied
10. After entire head braided, remove all lose hair ends from braid shaft with scissors
11. Finish ends by spraying water to activate wave in human hair extensions
12. Follow cleanup and sanitation procedures for procedure 21 - invisible braid

Procedure 26 - Basic Cornrows

Implements & Materials / Preparation
- same as procedure 24 - single braids

Procedure
1. Depending on style selected, determine correct size and direction of cornrow base.  With your tail comb, part hair into 2 inch (5cm) sections and apply a light essential oil to scalp.  Massage oil throughout scalp and hair
2. To create panel, start by taking 2 even partings to form neat row for cornrow base. With tail comb, part hair into a panel, using butterfly clips to keep other hair pinned to either side
3. Divide panel into 3 even strands. To ensure consistency throughout braid, make sure strands are same size.  Place your fingers close to base.  Cross left strand under centre strand
4. Cross right strand under centre strand. Passing outer strands under centre strand creates underhand cornrow braid
5. With each crossing under, or revolution, pick up from base of panel a new strand of equal size and add it to the outer strand before crossing it under centre strand
6. As you move along braid panel, pick up a strand from scalp with each revolution and add to the outer strand before crossing it under alternating side of braid on which you pickup hair
7. As new strands are added, braid will become fuller. Braid to end
8. Simply braiding to ends can finish cornrow; small rubber bands can be used to hold ends in place. Other optional finishes, such as singeing, are considered advanced methods and require special training
9. Braid next panel in same direction and manner.  Keep partings clean and even
10. Repeat until all hair is braided. Apply oil sheen for finished look
11. Follow cleanup and sanitation procedures for procedure 21 - invisible braid

Procedure 27 - Cornrows with Extensions

Implements & Materials / Preparation
- same as procedure 25 - single braids with extensions

Procedure
1. With tail comb, part hair into 2 inch (5cm) sections and apply light esential oil to scalp.  Massage oil throughout scalp and hair
2. Starting at hairline, part off a cornrow base in desired direction.  No extension is added at the starting point.  If hair extension is required because of a thinning hairline, apply minute amounts, as small as 5-10 strands. Divide natural hair into 3 equal strands
3. With first revolution, cross outer strand under centre strand
4. On 2nd revolution, right strand crosses under centre strand.  Pick up small portion of natural hair and add it to the outer strand during revolution
5. After few revolutions and pick-ups of natural hair, introduce small amounts of extension fibre, perhaps 10-20 fibres.  to avoid bulk or knots, amount of extension should be proportionately less than size of base.  Fold fibres in middle and tuck the point in between 2 adjoining strands of natural hair. The folded fibres will form 2 portions, which are added to centre and outer strands before next pick-up and revolution. Do not forget to continue picking up natural hair with each revolution in order to execute cornrow
6. Repeat until all hair is braided
7. Follow cleanup and sanitation procedures for procedure 21 - invisible braid

TIP: always trim any ends that may stick up through braid.  Holding scissors flat, move up shaft as you trim, making sure you avoid cutting into braid

Notes for Wigs & Hair Enhancements

Wigs & Hair Enhancements
- ancient Egyptians shaved their heads with bronze razors and wore heavy black wigs to protect them from the sun
- ancient Rome, women wore wigs made from prized blond hair of captured barbarians from the north
- Japan, lacquered coiffures of the geishas were wigs
- 18th-century England, men wore wigs, called perukes => indicate they were in the army, navy, or engaged in the practice of law
- specialists in hair additions and enhancements are increasingly in demand, working in runway and hair shows, on print and video shoots

TIP: Always share styling tips with client, a great way to build client trust and loyality

The Consultation
- offer degree of protection to both you and client
- make client realize results are bounded by reality
- wig can be large financial and emotional investment for client
- understand client's motivation in seeking wig service
- conduct consultation with compassionate feeling language
- point of consultation is to cut through doubts and fears with genuine communication

Key Point Checklist

1. Determine Need & Desire
- use as fashion accessory
- special event: wedding, prom, etc.
- glamour
- disguise thinning hair or hair loss due to illness
- film work, TV, theatre, fashion shows, photo shoot

2. Match style with Client
- determine personality type
-- introvert: play it safe, enhance natural beauty
-- extrovert: bold, adventurous, packs a punch
- client's age
- client's personal image
-- corporate
-- trendy
-- classic
-- country
-- glamourous
-- cute
-- athletic
- client's job or career

3. Find Right Balance
- study client's bone structure and body type
-- step back and take big picture look
-- classic proportions: ration of head size to body 1:7
-- adding hair NOT overwhelm client unless theatrical
- when adding hair, best to consult in client's street clothes

4. Work with Client's Hair Type
- determine hair texture
-- blend artificial hair with natural hair
- aware of natural hairlines and growth patterns
-- influence choice of wig, hairpiece, or extenions
- natural condition of hair determines how much real hair to show or cover up
- check hair density
-- full head of hair and want alternative look
-- hair thinning and patchy

5. Select Appropriate Hair Addition
- among hair addition options
wigs:
-- human or synthetic
-- custom-made
-- ready to wear
hair extnsions:
-- temporary
-- clip-in
-- semipermanent
hairpieces:
-- falls
-- ponytails
-- switches
-- wiglets
-- braids
-- ponytail wraps
-- toupees
- is addition temporary or permanent?
-- maintain look through salon services or home maintenance?
-- how long will client wear wig?
-- are serious health issue involved that might determine length of time wig will be worn?
- environmental factors

-- humidity
-- exposure
-- example: suggest synthetic hairpiece for client in Florida => won't frizz in high humidity
--- client need to smooth own hair down with gel
- use sample colour ring to identify correct colour match for client
- have various product photos and brochures for client to make selection
-- good to keep samples for client to see and feel
- will wig or hairpiece need to be custom cut or coloured?

6. Budgetary Concerns:
- client's budget
- use catalogues and price lists, educate client on features and benefits of various price points (high, medium, low)
- establish salon service fees for custom cutting, colouring and styling of hair additions

7. Other Available Creative Options. Do not neglect to call your client's attention to the following services you can provide:
- custom cutting
- colour, perming, setting, and styling of wigs, hairpieces, and extensions
- a styling maintenance program that will educate client in use of styling products

TIPS: Retailing hair additions and home-care products = substantial additional income for you
- make cue care for yourself listing key points to discuss with client
- identify client's needs
- explain why it would be worth it for client to make investment
- describe features and benefits of products you recommend
- discus product performance and cost
- always believe in your recommendations and stand by your products

Wigs
- artificial covering for head consisting of a network of interwoven hair
- client's hair is completely concealed
- Hairpiece: small wig, not fully cover head, usually covers top or crown of head

Human Hair verses Synthetic Hair
- fastest way to determine strand is real or synthetic
-- burn hair strand with match
-- human hair burn slowly, giving off distinctive odour
-- synthetic strand of fibre will "ball up" and melt, extinguishing itself (a characteristic of synthetic like kanekalon), or continue to flame and burn out very quickly (typical of polyester)
--- not give off odour

Advantages of Human Hair Wigs
- more realistic appearance
- greater durability
- same styling and maintenance requirements as natural hair
-- can be custom coloured
-- can be permed
-- tolerates heat from blow-dryer, curling iron, or hot rollers

Disadvantages of Human Hair Wigs
- human hair reacts of climate like natural hair
-- depending on hair type, may frizz, or lose curl in humid weather
- after shampooing, hair needs to be reset
-- challenge for home maintenance
- colour will oxidize => fade with exposure to light
- hair will break and split just like human hair if mistreated by harsh brushing, back-combing, or excessive use of heat

Advantages of Synthetic Wigs
- over the years, technology of producing synthetic fibres greatly improved
-- wigs from modacrylic are strong and durable
-- top-of-the-line synthetics like kanekalon, a modacrylic fibre, simulate protein-rich hair, with natural lustrous look and feel
-- so realistic can fool stylists
- great value
-- both style and texture are set in hair
-- ready-to-wear wigs are very easy for client to maintain at home
-- shampooing in cold water NOT change style nor exposure to extreme humidity
- most synthetic ready-to-wear wigs are cut according to latest styles
-- cut, colour, texture already set
-- only work as a stylist is some detailing or custom trimming
- colours almost unlimited
-- natural to wild fantasy
-- cheaper wigs tend to be solid in colour (less tone on tone) and fibre coarser (polyester-based)
-- high-end are mix of many shades, with highlights and lowlights for natural effect
- synthetic colours will not fade or oxidize, even when exposed to long periods in sun


Drawbacks of Synthetic Wigs
- cannot be exposed to extreme heat
-- curling irons, hot rollers, or high heat or blow-dryers
- colouring synthetic fibres not recommended, as traditional haircolour does not work on them
- sometimes synthetic wigs are so shiny that they may not look natural
- if they are thick, may look unnatural on fine-haired client
-- price connected to how natural a synthetic wig can look

TIP: when working with synthetic wig, pick shape or style that suits client rather than changing wig itself


Quality and Cost
- you get what you pay for
- success determined by quality of product itself
- don't be fooled by imitations
- cheap wigs great for "fun moments" or practice cutting on
-- other situations look tacky and unattractive
- most expensive wigs are human hair:
-- European Hair:
--- top-of-line
--- virgin hair most costly
--- colour-treated hair second in cost
-- India & Asia Hair:
--- provide more of human hair commercially
--- Indian hair usually available 12" - 16"
--- Asian hair available 12" - 28"
--- Indian hair naturally wavy
--- Asian hair naturally straight
-- Human Hair Mixed with Animal Hair:
--- angora, horse, yak, or sheep
--- yak hair taken from animal's belly and is purest of whites
---- natural colour lends itself to adding fantasy colours => attracts teen market
--- mixed-hair products often used in theatrical or fashion settings

Questions to ask when selecting wig for client:
- is wig human hair, animal hair, mix of both, or synthetic?
- is hair coloured or in natural state (virgin hair)?
- human hair: is it graded in terms of strength, elasticity, and porosity?
- is cuticle intact?
-- cuticle intact is more expensive, as hair has been "turned"
-- Turned Hair: root ends are arranged to prevent hair from tangling
--- root end of every hair strand is sewn into base so that cuticles of all hair strands slope in same direction
--- hair in better condition and easier to work with
--- turning is a tedious, time-consuming process that increases cost of hair
- is the hair Fallen Hair?
-- hair has been shed from head, perhaps gathered from hairbrush
-- not turned roots to ends
-- cuticle is removed => will not lock and mat
-- less expensive
- is hair tangle-free?
-- if cuticle removed => cannot condition hair, for it will tend to mat
- what is the condition of hair?  has it been bleached?  can it be coloured?  has it been coloured with metallic dye?
- will hair match client's hair? should you be blending to match?
- can the hair be permed?
- if client doing home maintenance, will wig last a reasonable time (4-6 months if continual use)?

Types of Wigs
- Cap Wigs:
-- constructed with elasticized mesh-fibre base to which hair is attached
-- made of several sizes, require special fittings
-- usually hand-knotted
-- front edge is made of material resembling client's scalp, along with lace extension and wire support, used at temples for a snug, secure fit
-- hair is hand-tied under net ("underknotted") to conceal cap edge
-- side and back edges contain wire supports, elastic, and hooks for secure fit
-- best for client with extremely thin or no hair
- Capless Wig:
-- machine made
-- hair (human or artificial) woven into long strips called Wefts
--- sewn to elastic strips in circular pattern to fit head shape
-- more popular today: ready-to-wear and less expensive
-- frame of connected wefts => open points
-- due to construction and airiness, extremely light and comfortable to wear
-- allows scalp to breath and are healthier
-- bald client scalp will show through

Methods of Construction
- Hand-Tied or Hand-Knotted Wigs:
-- made by inserting individual strands of hair into mesh foundation and knotting with a neeedle
-- done around front hairline and top of head
-- have natural, realistic look and are wonderful for styling
-- most closely resembles actual human hair growth, with flexibility at roots
-- no definite direction to hair
-- can be combed in almost any direction
-- most versatile of all patterns
- Semi-Hand-Tied Wigs:
-- constructed with a combination of synthetic hair and hand-tied human hair
-- reasonably priced
-- offer natural appearance and good durability
- Machine-Made Wigs:
-- least expensive option
-- made by feeding wefts through sewing machine then sewn together to form base and shape of wig
-- disadvantage of wefting direction => restricts other styling options
-- some hairstylist overcreative and cut it to point of no return
-- "bounce back" quality, even after shampoo style returns
-- no versatility
- be aware of artificial growth patterns of wig
- wig construction determines style


Taking Wig Measurements
- custom-made wigs begin with client's measurements
- use soft tape measure, keeping close to head without pressure
- always keep written record of head measurements and forward copy to wig dealer or manufacturer
- include precise specifications of:
-- hair shade
-- quality of hair
-- length of hair
-- type of hair part and pattern
- if ready-to-wear wig, no measuring required
-- adjusted by tightening straps or elastic in nape
-- most common in salons, because of price difference
- every wig needs to be adjusted ot head and custom styled or trimmed to suit client


Blocking the Wig
- Block:
-- head-shape form
-- usually made of canvas-covered cork or Styrofoam, wig is secured for fitting, cleaning, colouring, and styling
-- available in 6 sizes => 20 inches (50cm) to 22 1/2 inches (56.25cm)
-- best attached to your work area with swivel clamp => greater control
- always fit wig to right size block
- when mounting wig on block, pin evenly with T-shaped pins at these points:
-- temples (use seams of block as guide)
-- above each ear
-- each corner of nape

Putting on Wig
- most important step: instructing client how to put on wig
- start by educating client on correct method for preparing hair to receive wig
- client's skill at securing hair under wig cap and making it flat and even, determine how well wig sits on head
- 2 methods:
-- hair wrap
-- pin curls

Cleaning Wig
- always follow manufacturer's instructions
- if shampoo recommended, use gentle shampoo (used for colour-treated hair)
- avoid sulphur based => dandruff shampoos

Cutting Wig
- goal: to make hair look more realistic
- hair on human head has many lengths
- hair that is 1 month old and years old all exist on same head
- taper ends when cutting wig
- more sold the shape => more unnatural hair will look
- when cutting and trimming wigs
-- blunt, layered, and graduated
-- using same sectioning and elevations as on real head of hair
-- many top stylist cut free-form on dry hair
- wig placed on  block for cutting, but comb-out and finishing done on client's head
- Free-Form cutting moves from longer to shorter lengths
-- always working towards weight
-- vertical sections create lightness
-- diagonal sections create rounder beveled edge
-- horizontal sections build heavier weight
-- usually done on dry hair => shows you how hair will fall
- use this visual approach:
-- begin by cutting small section and observe how hair falls
-- next step based on how hair responds
-- draw diagram of silhouette or have a photo image for reference

Styling Wig
- most hair you work with s chemically treated => handle gently:
- when using heat on human hair, always set styling tool on low
- treat hair gently and kindly (no pulling)
- traditionally, brushes made with natural boar-bristles regarded best for human hair
-- soft bristles far preferable to sharp-edge synthetic bristles that can damage hair
- today, many synthetic brushes have smooth, rounded plastic teeth more like a comb, excellent and economical choices
-- key with any brush or comb is to be gentle => hair can easily damage
- choose styling products formulated for colour-treated hair
-- work the best and kinder to human hair
-- remember: whatever you put into hair will have to be shampooed out
- use block for all colouring, perming, setting, and basic cut outlining
- on client's head: combing-out and finishing touches for most contemporary cuts
-- achieve proper balance and personalization
- most client come into salon for natural look
- areas that must appear most convincing:
-- crown
-- the part
-- hairline
- general rule: follow direction of knotting and weave, as preset by wig maker

Tips:
- wet cutting method: more controlled and technical
- dry cutting method: freer and more abstract => more realistic

Styling Tips for Hairline
- back-comb gently around hairline
-- fluffy effect softens hairline
- release client's hair around hairline, cut and blend it into wig hair
- Wind Test: best test to gauge realistic looking wig
-- simulates wind blowing hair off face
-- gently blow around client's face with blow-dryer set to cool and low, observe hairline
-- if realistic, point out results to client
- when styling wig, do not make it look perfect
-- use hands rather than brush for natural look
-- don't plaster hair down
- never loose sight of big picture
-- experienced stylist works with total person, not just head
-- when done, step back and ask client to stand up and walk around so you can check for balance, proportion and make corrections accordingly


Colouring Wigs & Extensions
- all synthetic haircolours wigs and hairpieces are standardized: 70 colours on haircolour ring 
- range from black to palest blonde
- most commercially available hair from India or China
-- natural colour level is 0 or black
-- very difficult to lift level 0 to 10
- yak hair excellent base to add fantasy colours appealing to youth market
- to custom-colour hair, use hair that has been decolourized (bleached) through lifting process, NOT with metallic dyes
-- check with manufacturer
- first learn rules before you break any
- good colourist NOT afraid to make mistakes because they can correct them
- principles that guide colouring natural hair same for wigs and extensions
- first, check if cuticle intact
-- absent cuticle hair is very porous and react to colour in extreme manner
-- always strand test hair prior to full colour application
-- use semipermanent, demipermanent, glaze, rinse, or colour mousse products
- use permanent haircolour on human hair wigs, unless hair is porous => then semipermanent better choice
- colouring human hair wig or hairpiece: conduct regular colour checks every 5 - 10 minutes
-- hair comes from many different heads => unpredictable
- easier to colour client's hair to match wig than other way around

Perming Wig
- need to know how the wig hair is coloured
- was it decolourized (bleached) or dyed with metallic dye?
-- do NOT perm hair coloured with metallic dye
- permanent wave performed off client's head
- cover head form with plastic to protect from chemical solutions, pin wig securely to head form, perm as you would a normal head of hair

CAUTION: do NOT use oxidizing haircolour or haircolour with peroxide on hair treated with metallic hair dye
- hair will swell and smoke, appearing to be boiling from inside out

Hairpieces
- gives 20 - 70 % coverage
- sits on top of client's hair and usually attached by temporary methods
- many wig companies have ready-to-wear, low-maintenace hairpieces
-- introduction to world of wigs or good retail item in salon
- some easily blended into long hair or short hair
- some add natural-looking height or volume
- some add length
- placed anywhere on head
- temporary attachment methods:
-- interlocking combs
-- flexible wire combs
-- elastic
-- claw clips
-- Velcro
- one versatile hairpiece: hair wefts wrapped around elastic and resemble cloth scrunchie
- some hairpieces constructed on weft base and attached with flexible comb that attaches around font and nape
- Integration Hairpiece: attached by semipermanent method
- client's hair prepared before hairpiece attached
-- tied into ponytail or bun or twisted into French twist
-- blended with hairpiece or serve as base for it


Integration Hairpiece
- has opening in base through which client's own hair is pulled to blend
- very lightweight, natural-looking adding length and volume
- good alternative to hair extensions
- recommended for clients with thinning hair but not for total hair loss => scalp may show through

Toupees
- men typical customers but woman can also wear
- small wig used to cover top and crown of head
- fine net base most appropriate for severe hair loss
- 2 ways to attach toupees:
1. temporary (tape or clips)
2. semipermanent (weaving, tracks, adhesive, or sewing)
- wearers prize the confidence gained and prepare to pay high price
- best toupees are custom designed
- top manufacturers offer in-depth instructions


Fashion Hairpieces
- great salon product for special occasions as fashion accessories (bridal business)
- vary in size and constructed on stiff net base
- attached on temporary basis with hairpins, clips, comb, bobby pins, or elastic
1. wraparound ponytail is a long length of wefted hair that covers 10-20% of head
-- used as simple ponytail or in chignons
2. cascade of curls attached with combs
3. hair wrap mounted on an elastic loop, further secured with hairpins

- for natural look, blend client's hair with hairpiece
- must match up both colour and wave pattern
- use colour ring to match colour
- cannot colour hairpiece

Hair Extensions
- hair additions that are secured on base of client's hair
-- add length, volume, texture, or colour
- greater blending of real and artificial hair than hairpieces
- left in hair must longer
- manufacturers offer training in attachment
- general guidelines:
-- decide if adding length, thickness, or both
-- know final style, map out desired style
-- stay 1 inch (2.5cm) away from hairline at front, sides, and nape and 1 inch away from part
-- with very thin hair, careful that base not show through
-- curly hair tend to expand and give illusion of being thicker
--- are you matching curl or adding another curl pattern?
-- straight thin hair and curly thin hair may have similar density but curly appear thicker
--- may not need as many extensions in curly

Track & Sew Attachment Method
- hair extensions are secured at base of client's own hair by sewing
- hair attached to an on-the-scalp braid or cornrow, serving as track
- angle of track => how hair will fall
-- position track horizontally, vertically, or diagonally, or along curved lines that follow contours of head
- partings determined by style
- size of sections determined by amount of hair that will be added to head
- plan tracks so ends of braids hidden
-- best to put tracks 1 inch (2.5cm) behind hairline for proper coverage
- when sewing extension onto track, use only blunt, custom-designed needle, straight or curved
-- avoid damage to hair and protect you and client
- Lock Stitch:
-- cut length of thread double length of weft
-- pass needle through weft to connect it to track
-- pull thread through to create loop
-- pass needle through loop and wrap thread around needle
-- pull loop tight to fom a lock stitch to ecure ends of weft to track
-- may be used over entire length of track in even spaced stitches
- Double-Lock Stitch:
-- much like lock stitch but thread wound around needle twice
-- used same way as lock stitch
- Overcast Stictch:
-- used to secure entire length of weft to track
-- pass needle under both track and weft
-- bring back over to make new stitch
-- repeat stitch until end reached
-- complete with lock stitch for security

Bonding Method
- attaching hair wefts or single strands with an adhesive or glue gun
-- special tool created specifically for bonding
- bonded hair sits snugly on head and is fast to apply
- certain degree of slippage
- lasts 2-4 weeks, depending on:
-- frequency of shampooing
-- oiliness or dryness of scalp
-- quality of products used
- clients need to be on maintenance program requiring salon visits every 2 weeks
- advantage of bonding: client can gently shampoo hair with wefts in
- affordable price
- time to complete service: 10-20 minutes depending on experience
- begins by sectioning off hair at the nape
- measure first weft against parting, 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch (.6 - 1.25cm) from hairline
- lay weft on flat surface and apply consistent amount of adhesive along base
- lightly press weft against clean parting
- hold for approximately 20 seconds
- to test, gently tug
- may use blow-dryer, set on low - medium to seal bond
- proceed to next section, working upwards until desired length & volume achieved
- avoid working too close to crown or parting => weft show through
- work 1 inch (2.5cm) away from hairline
- bonded wefts removed by dissolving adhesive bond with oil or bond remover

CAUTION: some clients may have allergic reaction to ingredients in bonding adhesive.
- always perform patch test prior to application of bonded extensions

Fusion Method
- extension hair is bonded with bonding material activated by heat from special tool
- expensive, harmonizes with client's natural hair with no uncomfortable or unattractive attachment sites
- bonds light and comfortable to wear
- hair moves like real hair
- easy to maintain
- lasts up to 4 months (almost twice as long as other methods)
- removal quick and painless
- requires certification training
- may be best choice for clients with find, limp hair
- involves wrapping keratin-based strip around both client's hair and extension
- heat element applied until bonding agent softened and bond is rolled between fingers until both natural and added hair have adhered

Procedure 28 - Taking Wig Measurements

Implements & Materials
- styling cape
- neck strip
- boar-bristle brush
- duckbill clips
- cloth measuring tape

Preparation
1. client consultation
2. drape client for dry hair service, with styling cape and neck strip
3. brush hair down smoothly and pin it as flatly and tightly to scalp as possible

Procedure
1. Measure circumference of head. Place tape completely around head, starting at hairline at middle of forehead. Place tape above ears, around back of head, and return to starting point.
2. Beginning from hairline at the middle of forehead, measure over top of nape of neck. Bend head back and measure to point where wig will ride on base of skull at nape.
3. Measure from ear to ear, across forhead.
4. Measure from ear to ear, over top of head.
5. Place tape across crown and measure from temple to temple.
6. Measure width of napeline, across nape of neck.

Cleanup & Sanitation
1. disinfect all implements and store in appropriate containers
2. discard neck strip and place cape in hamper for laundering
3. sanitize your workstation
4. wash your hands with soap and warm water


Procedure 29 - Putting on Wig


Implements & Materials
- styling cape and neck strip
- comb
- hairpins
- bobby pins
- wig cap
- wig

Preparation
1. client consultation
2. drape client for a dry hair service with styling cape and neck strip

Procedure for Pin Curls
1. brush hair smooth
2. take large sections of hair and wrap them into flat pin curls, keeping base of each pin curl as flat and smooth as possible


Procedure for Hair Wrap
1. section off a large triangular section at crown and pin this hair out of way
2. taking small sections, brush client's hair all around head, as if setting hair on a big roller (head as roller)
3. pin hair in place. Pull a wig cap over hair if desired

Procedure for Putting on Wig
1. holding front of wig against forehead with one hand, use your other hand to gently slide wig back onto head
2. hold edge in front of ears and pull it down, making sure wig is sitting straight
3. if wig loose, tighten by adjusting elastic and hooks at nape. May have to tighten it off head and then refit it on the client
4. if client has long or thick hair, may need some extra pins to lock wig deeper into place, s client's hair could push wig up.  For clients with thin or short hair, additional pinning is not usually necessary
5. follow cleanup and sanitation for procedure 28

Notes for Shampooing, Rinsing, & Conditioning

Shampooing, Rinsing, & Conditioning
- shampoo is an opportunity to provide client with quality relaxing time in salon
- important for the stylist to see client's hair before wet
- shampoo person should alert stylist of existing hair or scalp conditions, diseases, or disorders
- client with infectious disease should NOT be treated in salon but referred to physician
- purpose of shampoo => cleanse hair & scalp prior to receiving service
-- remove all dirt, oils, cosmetics, and skin debris without adversely affecting scalp or hair
- scalp & hair need regular cleansing to combat accumulated oils and perspiration
-- otherwise cause scalp disorders
- over shampooing strips hair or protective oil, or sebum => seals & protects hair's cuticle

Understanding Shampoo
- always read labels and literature to make informed decisions about use
- select shampoo based on condition of client's hair
- hair characterized: oily, dry, normal, chemically treated
- hair not normal or virgin if:
-- lightened
-- coloured
-- permed
-- chemically relaxed
-- abused by harsh shampoos
-- damaged by improper care
-- exposure to elements: wind, sun, cold, heat

pH Scale
- amount of hydrogen in a solution determines alkalinity or acidity
- range: 0 - 14
- acidic shampoo range: 0 - 6.9
- alkaline shampoo range: 7.1 - 14
-- higher the pH rating (more alkaline), stronger & harsher shampoo
- high pH leave hair dry, brittle and more porous, cause fading in colour-treated hair

Chemistry of Water
- universal solvent: capable of dissolving more substances than an other solvent
- fresh water (lakes & streams) purified by sedimentation (treatment causing matter to sink to bottom) and filtration (passing water through porous substance i.e. filter paper or charcoal)
- chlorine added to kill bacteria
- boiling water at 100 degrees Celsius (212 degrees Fahrenheit) destroys most microbes
- water further treated by distillation (heating water to vapour then condensing to liquid)
-- often used in cosmetics
- water is used for shampooing, mixing solutions, and other functions
- classified as hard of soft, depending on kinds & amount of minterals present in water
- Soft Water:
-- rain water or chemically softened water
-- contains small amount of minerals
-- allows soap and shampoo to lather freely
-- preferred for shampoo
- Hard Water:
-- contains certain minerals lessen ability of soap and shampoo to later readily
-- chemical process can soften hard water


Chemistry of Shampoos
- purified or deionized (ions removed) water main ingredient, usually listed first (most amount)
- ingredients listed in descending order, according to percentage
- Surfactants: (Base Detergent)
-- 2nd ingredient (primary surfactant or base detergent)
--- surfactant = detergent = cleansing = surface active agent
-- surfactant molecule has 2 ends:
--- hydrophilic (water attracting "head")
-- lipophilic (oil attracting "tail")
-- during shampoo process, hydrophilic head attracts water and lipophilic tail attracts oil
--- creates push-pull process, causing oils, dirt, and deposits to roll up into little balls to be lifted off in water and rinsed from hair
-- other ingredients added to base surfactants to create wide variety of shampoo formulas
--- moisturizers, oils, proteins, perservatives, foam enhancers, and perfumes


Types of Shampoo
- dry
- oily
- fine
- coarse
- limp
- lightened
- permed
- relaxed
- chemically untreated hair
- add slight colour to highlighted hair
- cleanse hair of styling buildup, mineral deposits, etc.
- deposit a coating on hair
- strips coating off hair
- leave hair lustrous and manageable
- treat scalp or hair condition
- list of ingredients key

Acid-Balanced or Everyday Shampoo
- balanced to pH of skin and hair (4.5 - 5.5)
- any shampoo become acid-balance by addition of citric, lactic, or phosphoric acid
- some experts believe 4.5-5.5 pH essential to prevent excessive dryness and hair damage during cleansing process
- close hair cuticle and recommended for colour-treated or lightened hair

Conditioning or Moisturizing Shampoos
- make hair smooth and shiny
- avoid damage to chemically treated hair
- improve manageability of hair
- Protein and Biotin, examples of conditioning agents
-- restore moisture & elasticity, strength of hair shaft and add volume
-- Nonstripping: do NOT remove artificial colour from hair


Medicated Shampoos
- contain special chemicals or drugs effective in reducing excessive dandruff or relieving other scalp conditons
- some need prescription by physician
- generally strong and may affect colour of tinted or lightened hair
- shampoo must sit on scalp for longer time for active ingredients to work

Clarifying Shampoos
- acidic ingredient ie. cider vinegar to cut product buildup that flatten hair
- includes shine
- not be used on regular basis, only when buildup evident
- once every 1-2 weeks, depending how much styling product used

Balancing Shampoos
- for oily hair & scalp
- wash away excess oiliness while keeping hair from drying out


Dry or Powder Shampoos
- sometimes state of client's health makes wet shampoo uncomfortable or hard to manage
- elderly client may experience discomfort at shampoo bowl due to pressure on back of neck
- cleanse hair without use of soap and water
- powder picks up dirt and oils as you brush or comb it through hair
- adds volume to hair
- NEVER give dry shampoo before chemical service


Colour-Enhancing Shampoos
- combines surfactant base with basic colours
- similar to temporary colour rinses
- attracted to porous hair
- give straight colour changes, removed with plain shampooing
- used to brighten, add some slight colour, and eliminate unwanted tones

Shampoos for Hairpieces and Wigs
- prepared wig cleaning solutions available

FOCUS: establish your professional relationship during shampoo by giving client information as to what you are doing and why.  Let client know what shampoo you are using and why you have selected it.  Mention these products are available for purchase, and emphasize benefits

Conditioners
- special chemical agents applied to hair
- deposit protein or moisturizer
- restore strength and give body
- protect against breakage
- temporary remedy for dry or damaged hair
- repair to certain extent (cannot "heal" nor improve quality of new hair growth)
- texture and structure of hair depends on: heredity, health, and diet
- minimize damage to hair during cosmetology services
-- restore luster, shine, manageability, strength
- can give false impression that hair has been restored to original healthy condition
- habitual use lead to buildup on hair => heavy and oily
- stylist know when to use cream rinse (removes tangles) and conditioning treatment (repairs damaged hair)
- Reconstructors or Hair Masks:
1. Rinse-through:
-- finishing rinses or cream rinses - rinsed out after they are worked through hair for detangling
2. Treatment or Repair:
-- deep, penetrating conditioners left on hair for 10-20 minutes, restoring protein & moisture
-- sometimes necessary to sit under hooded dryer for deeper penetration
3. Leave-in:
-- applied to hair and NOT rinsed out
- most conditioners contain silicone and Humectant, substances that absorb moisture or promote retention of moisture
-- reflects light and make hair appear shiny
- other ingredients reduces frizz and bulk up hair
- most treatments and leave-ins contain proteins, which penetrates cortex and reinforces hair shaft from within
- conditioner affects hair in different ways:
-- conditioners smooth cuticle and coat hair shaft making it shiny
--- so do detangling rinses or cream rinses (not as heavy)
-- cortex makes up 90% of hair strand and penetrated with protein conditioner to reconstruct hair
-- moisturizing conditioner also contain humectant that attract moisture from air and absorbed into cortex


Instant Conditioners
- some remain in hair for 1-5 minutes
- some are "leave-in" conditioners
- contains humectant to improve appearance of dry, brittle hair
- most conditioners pH range 3.5 - 6.0 and restore pH balance after an alkaline chemical treatment
- conditioners designed to balance pH are considered instant because of short application time
-- generally contain acid that balance alkalinity of prior chemical service

Moisturizers
- heavier & creamier than instant conditioners
- have longer application time (10-20 minutes)
- formulated to be more penetrating and longer staying power
- some involve application of heat
- Quaternary Ammonium Compounds (quats) included in chemical formulation of moisturizers for ability to attach themselves steadfastly to hair fibres and provide longer lasting protection than instant conditioners


Protein Conditioners (Protein Treatments)
- designed to slightly increase hair diameters with coating action, adding body to hair
- facilitate hair setting process
- available in several strengths
- choice strength appropriate to condition, texture, quality of hair you are treating
- concentrated protein conditioners characteristically have brown liquid appearanc
- used to improve strength of hair and to temporary close split ends
- pass through cuticle, penetrate cortex, replace keratin lost
- improve appearance, equalize porosity and increase elasticity
- excess conditioner must be rinsed from hair before setting
- concentrated protein treatments not given immediately after chemical treatment
-- alter desirable rearrangement of protein bonds formed by permanent wave, relaxer or haircolouring.

Deep Conditioning Treatments (Hair Masks or Conditioning Packs)
- chemical mixtures of concentrated protein in heavy cream base of a moisturizer
- penetrate several cuticle layers and are chosen therapy when an equal degree of moisturizing and protein treatment is required


Other Conditioning Agents
- Spray-On Thermal Protectors:
-- applied to hair prior to any thermal service to protect hair from harmful effects of blowdrying, thermal irons, or electrical rollers
- Scalp Conditioners:
-- usually in cream base
-- soften and improve health of scalp
-- contain moisturizing and emollient ingredients
- Medicated Scalp Lotions:
-- conditioners that promote healing of scalp
- Scalp Astringent Lotions:
-- remove oil accumulation from scalp and used after scalp treatment and before styling

CAUTION: product can be damaging over time if used incorrectly.  Conditioners can build up on hair shaft and make hair heavy & oily, convincing you to shampoo again.  Constant shampoo strips hair shaft of protective oils, prompting you to condition more => creates vicious cycle.  Use gentle shampoo for your hair type and little conditioner only when needed

CAUTION: hair service NOT be preceded by brushing, shampooing, or massage include:
- single-process and double-process haircolour
- highlighting
- most chemical relaxers
- some temporary & semi-permanent haircolour
If shampooing is recommended, do so gently to avoid scalp irritation


Brushing Hair
- correct hair-brushing:
-- stimulates blood circulation to scalp
-- remove dust, dirt, and hair spray buildup
-- adds shine
- include thorough hair-brushing as part of every shampoo and scalp treatment, with exception:
-- do NOT brush before giving chemical service
-- do NOT brush if scalp irritated
-- NEVER brush scalp
-- NEVER use comb to loosen scales from scalp
- use hairbrushes made from natural bristles
-- many tiny overlapping layers or scales
-- clean and add lustre to hair
- hairbrushes with nylon bristles are shiny and smooth => fine for hairstyling
- to brush hair:
-- part it through the centre from front to nape
-- part a section about 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) off centre parting to crown of head
-- hold section in left hand
-- rotate brush by turning wrist slightly and sweep  bristles the full length of hair shaft
-- repeat 3 times
-- part hair again 1/2 inch from first parting and continue until entire head brushed

Matching products to Hair Types

Hair Type:    Straight
Fine:            Volumizing Shampoo, Detangler, if necessary Protein Treatments
Medium:      Acid-Balanced Shampoo, Finishing Rinse, Protein Treatments
Coarse:        Moisturizing Shampoo, Leave-in Conditioner, Moisturizing Treatments

Hair Type:   Wavy, Curly, Extremely Curly:
Fine:            Fine Hair Shampoo, Light Leave-In Conditioner, Protein Treatments, Spray-On Thermal Protectors
Medium:      Acid-Balanced Shampoo, Leave-in Conditioner, Moisturizing Treatment
Coarse:        Moisturizing Shampoo, Leave-in Conditioner, Protein & Moisturizing Treatments
Hair Type:   Dry & Damaged (Perms, Colour, Relaxers, Blow-drying, Sun, Hot Irons)
Fine:            Gentle Cleansing Shampoo, Light Leave-In Conditioner, Protein & Moisturizing Repair Treatments, Spray-On Thermal Protection
Medium:      Shampoo for Chemically Treated Hair, Moisturizing Conditioner, Protein & Moisturzing Repair Treatments
Coarse:        Deep-Moisturizing Shampoo for Damaged Hair, Leave-In Conditioner, Deep Conditioning Treatments and Hair Masks




Scalp Massage
- requirements for healthy scalp: cleanliness & stimulation
- use continuous, even motion => stimulate scalp & relaxes clients
- scalp massage most effective, given as series of treatments once a week for normal scalp, more frequently with scalp disorders, in conjunction with treatment by dermatologist
- do NOT massage or manipulate client's scalp if abrasions present
- performed prior to shampoo
- luxurious "extra" service


Scalp Manipulation Technique
- with each massage movement, place hands under hair so length of fingers, ball of fingertips, and cushions of the palms can stimulate muscles, nerves, and blood vessels of scalp area
1. Relaxing Movement:
- cup client's chin in left hand; place right hand at base of skull & rotate head gently
- reverse position of hands and repeat
 2. Sliding movement:
- place fingertips on each side of client's head; slide hands firmly upward, spreading fingertips until they meet at top of head
- repeat 4 times
3. Sliding & rotating movement
- same as (2), except after sliding fingertips 1 inch (2.5 cm), rotate and move client's scalp
- repeat 4 times
4. Forehead movement:
- hold back of head with left hand
- place stretched thumb & fingers of right hand on forehead
- move hand slowly and firmly upward to 1 inch pass hairline
- repeat 4 times
5. Scalp Movement:
- place palms firmly against scalp
- lift scalp in rotary movement, first with hands above ears, second with hands at front & back of head
6. Hairline Movement:
- place fingers of both hands at client's forehead
- massage around hairline by lifting and rotating
7. Front Scalp Movement:
- dropping back 1 inch, repeat (6) over entire front & top of scalp
8. Back Scalp Movement:
- place fingers of each hand on sides of head
- starting below ears, manipulate scalp with thumbs, working upward to crown
- repeat 4 times
- repeat thumb manipulations, working toward centre back of head
9. Ear-to-Ear Movement:
- place left hand on forehead
- massage from right ear to left ear along base of skull with heel of your hand, using rotary movement
10. Back Movement:
- place left hand on forehead and stand to left
- using right hand, rotate from base of neck, along shoulder, and back across shoulder blade to spine
- slide hand up spine to base of neck
- repeat on opposite side
11. Shoulder Movement:
- place both palms together at base of neck
- using rotary movement, catch muscles in palms and massage along shoulder blades to point of shoulders and back again
- massage from shoulders to spine and back again
12. Spine Movement:
- massage from base of client's skull down to spine with rotary movement
- using firm finger pressure, bring head slowly to base of skull

The Shampoo Procedure
- maintaining good posture protect again muscle aches, back strain, discomfort, fatigue, and other physical problems when performing shampoos
- keep shoulders back
- hold abdomen in, lifting upper body
- free-standing shampoo bowls allows healthier body alignment, reduce strain on back & shoulders


Shampooing Chemically Treated Hair
- tend to be drier & more fragile
- mild shampoo formulated for chemically treated hair is recommended
- tends to tangle
- comb gently from nape and work to frontal area
- do not force comb through hair
- use conditioner if necessary
- hair that is relaxed or straightened are less tangled, but may mat if not moisturized properly before drying

Applying Dry Shampoos
- sometimes state of client's health make shampoo uncomfortable or hard to manage
- elderly may experience pressure on back of neck
-- use dry or powder shampoo
- applied at stylist's station, client draped as for chemical service
- apply powder directly onto hair fro scalp to ends
- brush through with natural bristle brush to remove oil and dirt


Shampooing Clients with Special Needs
- clients with disabilities or in wheelchairs tell you how they prefer to be shampooed
- some wheelchair clients remain seated in wheelchair facing shampoo bowl bending forward, with towel to protect face
- if wheelchair in correct height in relation to shampoo bowl, shampoo as normal
- sometimes client arrive with hair freshly shampooed
- sometimes dry shampoo is appropriate
- always ask their preference and keep them comfortable and safe

General Hair & Scalp Treatments
- purpose: keep scalp & hair in clean and healthy condition
- stylist recommend only after having performed hair & scalp examination
- if client no time to sit for treatment, recommend scheduling
- give either before or after shampoo depending on which treatment

CAUTION: Do NOT use high-frequency current on hair treated with tonics or lotions that contain alcohol


Normal Hair & Scalp Treatments
1. drape client
2. brush hair for 5 minutes
3. apply scalp conditioner
4. apply infrared lamp for 5 minutes
5. manipulate scalp for 10-20 minutes
6. shampoo hair
7. towel dry hair to remove excess moisture
8. apply suitable scalp lotion and/or styling aids
9. style hair

Dry Hair & Scalp Treatments
- used when deficiency of natural oil on scalp & hair
- select scalp preparations containing moisturizing & emollient ingredients
- avoid strong soaps, preparations containing mineral oil or sulfonated oil base, greasy preparations, and lotions with high alcohol content
- scalp steamer resembling hooded dryer used
1. drape client
2. brush hair for 5 minutes
3. apply scalp preparation
4. apply scalp steamer or wrap head in warm team towels for 7-10 minutes
5. give mild shampoo
6. towel dry hair & scalp throughly
7. apply moisturizing scalp scram sparingly with rotary, frictional motion
8. stimulate scalp with direct high-frequency current, using glass rake electrode for 5 minutes
9. rinse hair thoroughly
10. style hair


Oily Hair & Scalp Treatments
- excessive oiliness caused by overactive sebaceous (oil) glands
- manipulate scalp & knead it to increase blood circulation to surace
- any hardened sebum in pores of scalp will be removed with gentle pressing or squeezing
- normalize function of these glands, excess sebum should be flushed out with each treatment
1. drape client
2. brush hair for 5 minutes
3. use cotton pledget, apply medical scalp lotion to scalp only
4. apply infrared lamp for 5 minutes
5. manipulate scalp (optional: faradic or sinusoidal current may be used)
6. shampoo with corrective shampoo for oily hair
7. towel dry hair
8. apply direct high-frequency current for 3-5 minutes
9. apply scalp astringent and/or suitable styling aids
10. style hair

Antidrandruff Treatments
- dandruff is result of fungus called malassezia
- antidrandruff shampoos, conditioners, and topical lotions contain antifungal agents that control dandruff by suppressing growth of malassezia
- moisturizing salon treatment also soften and loosen scalp scales that stick to scalp in crusts
1. drape client
2. shampoo with antidandruff shampoo
3. towel dry hair
4. apply antidandruff conditioner or lotion
5. apply heat with infrared lamp or scalp steamer for 5 minutes (optional)
6. shampoo with antidandruff shampoo
7. style hair
8. because fungus may resist treatment, additional salon treatments and frequent use of antidandruff products at home recommended

CAUTION: some antidandruff lotions are alcohol based and should NOT be used in conjunction with infrared lamps



Procedure 2 - Basic Shampoo

Implements & Materials
- towels
- shampoo cape
- shampoo
- conditioner (optional)
- comb & hairbrush

Preparation
1. Set client at workstation, ensure comfort
2. Consult which hair service client will receive on this visit
3. Wash hands with soap and warm water
4. Drape client for shampoo.  Turn collar to inside if necessary. Place towel lengthwise across shoulders, crossing ends beneath chin.
5. Place cape over towel & fasten back so cape NOT touch client's skin
6. place another towel over cape and secure in front
7. Remove all hairpins & combs from hair
8. Ask client to remove earrings & glasses and keep them safe
9. Examine condition of client's hair & scalp, determine appropriate shampoo & conditioner
10. Brush hair thoroughly
11. Massage scalp

Procedure
1. Set client comfortably at shampoo sink
2. Supporting head with hand, draw back of cape over outside of shampoo chair to kep water from running down back
3. Adjust volume & temperature of water spray. Consider client's preference when adjusting water temperature.  Turn on cold water first, gradually add warm water until comfortable warm temperature.  Test temperature on your inner wrist.  Monitor temperature of water throughout shampoo by keeping one finger over edge of spray nozzle and in contact with water
4. Wet hair. Lift hair and work it with hand to saturate scalp.  When working around hairline, shift your hand to protect client's face, ears, and neck from spray.  Place little finger behind ear and cup hand to make shield or bend ear inward to keep water out.
5. Apply small quantities of shampoo to hair, beginning at hairline and work back.  Work into a lather using pads or cushions of fingers.  Do not use your fingernails.
6. Manipulate scalp.
a) Begin at front hairline and work in back-and-forth movement until top of head is reached
b) Continue to back of head, shifting fingers back 1 inch (2.5cm) at a time
c) Lift head with hand.  With other hand, manipulate scalp above ear, and using same movement, work to back of head.
d) Drop finger down 1 inch and repeat process until side of head covered
e) Beginning at other ear, repeat c) and d)
f) Allow head to relax and work around hairline with thumbs in rotary movement
g) Repeat movements until scalp has been thoroughly massaged
h) Remove excess shampoo and lather by squeezing hair
7. Rinse hair with strong spray of lukewarm water.  Lift hair at crown and back with fingers of left hand to permit spray to rinse hair thoroughly.  Cup left hand along nape and part hair, forcing spray of water against base scalp area
8. If required, apply shampoo again.  Repeat procedure 5, 6, 7.  Less shampoo needed because partially clean hair lathers more easily.
9. Gently squeeze excess water from hair.  Apply conditioner, avoiding base of hair near scalp.  Gently comb conditioner through, distributing it with wide-tooth comb, which client remains in reclining position, with head in shampoo bowl
10. Leave conditioner on for recommended time.  Some conditioners are left on less than 1 minute and others for 10-20 minutes.  If rinsing out in less than 1 minute, it is fine to keep client in reclining position as long as comfortable.  Rinse conditioner thoroughly and finish with a cool water rinse to seal cuticle.
11. If conditioner is to remain on head for more than 1 minute, place a plastic cap on client's head and sit upright for recommended time.  If you have applied deep conditioning treatment, you may have to place client under a heated dryer.
12. Partially towel dry.
a) While still at shampoo bowl, remove ecess moisture from hair
b) Wipe excess moisture from face & ears with ends of towel
c) Lift towel over back of client's head and drape head with towel
d) Place hands on top of towel and blot out excess water.  Do NOT rub, as rubbing tangles hair
13. Clean out shampoo bowl, removing loose hair
14. Comb hair, beginning with ends at nape of neck
15. Change drape if necessary
16. Style hair as desired

Cleanup & Sanitation
1. Discard used materials, and placed unused supplies in proper place
2. Place used towels in towel hamper
3. Disinfect combs and brushes for required time
4. Sanitize shampoo bowl.  The neck of bowl should be disinfected after each client
5. Wash hands with soap & water


CAUTION: in massaging or manipulating scalp while shampooing, do NOT use firm pressure if:
- chemical services follow
- scalp is tender or sensitive
- client ask for less pressure